The final leg of this foray is from Mesilla to Bosque del Apache then back to Santa Fe. I stayed overnight in Socorro so that I could spend a bit of time scoping out Bosque del Apache, where I’ll be spending some time later this month for the Festival of the Cranes.
My route for a southern New Mexico Road Trip
Mesilla to Bosque del Apache: First Stop–Hatch, NM
Hatch is named after the famous Hatch chile. It’s self proclaimed title is “Chile Capital of the World” with an annual Labor Day celebration to share joy in all things chile. Located just 37 miles north of Las Cruces along Route 25, it’s a logical stop.
Hatch is a small village with just 1,648 people. Agriculture is the major industry, and it is dominated by the chile. As is the town.
The town has a very south of the border feel to it. Lunch at a recommended restaurant was frankly not very good. And not all that inexpensive. Should you stop, wander a bit and visit with people. May you have a better lunch than I did!
But I do have a very fond memory of a lunch about all things chile, where I learned about the various chile, how to cook them and why the red vs. green discussion is so New Mexico. Click here to read the full post.
Chile preferences are a topic of passionate discussion in New Mexico.
How hot. How to prepare, store them and cook them. Ultimately the discussion comes to a pivotal question:
Red or Green?
Photo by Calum Lewis on Unsplash
This is a serious topic of debate.
Some say green chile is for chicken and pork. Some prefer red. Or red chile with meat, but certainly not green.
The difficulty of deciding has led to a compromise solution that everyone seems to accept:
Both Red and Green
AKA, Christmas style. That way everyday is a holiday in your mouth.
Why all the brouhaha? What’s the difference? Is it just heat? Flavor? Preference? Or perhaps a combination of all the above?
Let me see if I can summarize the dissertation of red versus green chile.
There are several cultivars of chile including New Mexico 6-4′, ‘Big Jim’, ‘Sandia’, and ‘No. 6’ and ‘No. 9’ . All chile start off green. When they’re allowed to ripen further they become red.
Same pepper, but two different products.
The Green Chile
The green chile is often eaten as a pepper. They may be layered with eggs, on burgers and made into sauces. Some say that the green chile tends to be a bit hotter, although I am inclined to believe it really depends on the preparation. I can’t eat anything too hot, but I adore green chile.
The skin of either the red or green chile isn’t digestible, so the pepper has to be roasted then peeled.
In Carlos’ house, his mother would purchase fifty pound bags of fresh green chile. They were roasted and sweated in large plastic bags. The sweating helps the skins slide off easily.
There are several methods to preparing chile. They can be roasted, peeled and frozen. They can be frozen with the skin in place. (The skins then pull off easily when defrosted.) One cook claims this leads to superior flavor.
Green chile can also be freeze dried, made into a powder, packaged and shipped. Green chile is often associated with chicken or pork, although there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to chile preferences.
The Red Chile
Red chile is a slightly different animal. Here is where the techniques start to differ. It is usually dried for storage. It then needs to be reconstituted.
The Santa Fe chile hangs outside at the Farmers Market
Carlos explained that his mother would buy an edible (not lacquered) chile rista. The individual chile would be boiled in water, the water and stems discarded. Then she would fill the blender with garlic, salt, pepper, cumin, and oregano; blend it; strain it to catch seeds and skin; and pour the mixture into a pot and let it simmer. It would then be reduced or thickened with a cornstarch roux and served as a gravy. Some people sauté onions or garlic separately. There would appear to be as many variations as there are cooks.
The flavor of the New Mexican red chile can also be found in powder form, but to bring out the flavor, it needs to be bloomed, much like curry powder, by sautéing it first in oil.
Hatch chile have gained renown largely through a marketing program sponsored by the State of New Mexico. Why Hatch, New Mexico when chile are grown all along the Rio Grande? Hatch simply had a lot of land available!
The fame of the Hatch chile is what most people are most familiar with. The success of the New Mexican pepper has led to wannabe competitors. One town, Hatch, Colorado has tried to cash in on the growing popularity of Hatch chile by (legally) marketing peppers grown in Colorado as “Hatch Chile”. But only chile grown in New Mexico, and particularly the Rio Grande Valley, have the authentic flavor profile so prized.
Mesilla to Bosque del Apache: Next StopTruth or Consequences, NM
Truth or Consequences, formerly named Hot Springs, NM, is named after the famous quiz show from the fifties. Ralph Edwards, the original host, announced that he would air the program on its 10th anniversary from the first town that renamed itself after the show. Hot Springs, NM won the honor. Every year thereafter, the show returned for the town’s fiesta, bringing with it Hollywood stars. Thus Truth or Consequences came to be named.
The show was hysterical, and the humor is timeless. Here is one old clip from the show Truth or Consequences (sit down and be ready for a good old fashioned belly laugh!):
Should you visit Truth or Consequences, the hot springs are the draw. Here is an excellent link with information on the mineral waters.
Bosque Del Apache
Bosque Del Apache is the final stop of the day. For me, its a reconnaissance trip. The Festival of the Cranes, a 5 day event that brings together major camera and lens manufacturers and photography enthusiasts to view the spectacular migration of tens of thousands of birds. I am signed up for a variety of courses (starting at 5:30 am!) and look forward to mingling with fellow photo enthusiasts.
I’ll have a separate post (with I hope some good photos!) but in the meantime, here is a quick look at this spectacular wild life preserve:
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
From Carrizozo, it is off to White Sands and then to the quaint town of Mesilla, just west of Las Cruces.
My route for a southern New Mexico Road Trip
White Sands is the largest gypsum sand dune area in the world. Two hundred and seventy five square miles of endless pure white powder, mounded into shifting dunes. Here are just a few photos from dawn to dusk at this remarkable site. Check out the Photo Gallery for much more on White Sands.
Hurricane Willa is working its way across the region. That means rain, rain and more rain. “Frog strangler rain storms”, as they say in Texas. The rain started just as we were departing White Sands, and it never stopped. Torrential downpours paused intermittently only to continue with a renewed vengeance. It would be a wet day.
And what better way to spend a rainy afternoon than investigating Mesilla and some of its haunts.
Haunted haunts included.
The Village of Mesilla was incorporated in 1848 when the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo moved the border south, placing Mesilla firmly in the U. S. In 1853, after some years of dispute, the Gadsden Purchase finally and officially made Mesilla part of the U. S.
Mesilla has always been a western town, known for its festivals and attracting a few outlaws like Billy the Kid, Pancho Villa and Pat Garrett. By 1881, it had become the most important city in the region and it was assumed that the Santa Fe railway would go through the town.
But it didn’t.
Mesilla demanded too high a price, and a rancher from Las Cruces, a much smaller village at the time, won the bid. And the rest, as they say, is history.
Nevertheless, Mesilla was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1961.
Like most Spanish towns, Mesilla is organized around a Plaza. There is a church at one end, a green area where people can gather, and the plaza is ringed by adobe buildings sheltering stores and restaurants. It is a delightful village, with the surrounding fields planted with cotton and pecan. Shops carry a range of things, from Ken Edwards pottery to leather items and clothes.
[rev_slider alias=”mesilla-nm”]
Mesilla is located along the Rio Grande, and with the water from the river and the periodic rains, the immediate countryside is quite lush. Which was quite unexpected in the middle of the southern New Mexico desert.
On this day, rain made picture taking nearly impossible, so a quest for a respite from the rain led to the bar at La Posta de Mesilla.
La Posta de Mesilla is an integral part of the history of this National Register town. This territorial style adobe building started life as the Corn Exchange Hotel. It was a critical stop on the mail route to California.
The route took 25 dangerous days to cross the country. Weather, distance (2,795 miles) and Indian raids made it a grueling trip. A writer for the New York Herald said of the trip:
“Had I not just come out over the route, I would be perfectly willing to go back, but I now know what Hell is like. I’ve just had 24 days of it.”
Needless to say, the route was not for the faint of heart. So arrival at Mesilla, complete with blacksmith and food for all, was a most welcome respite.
The building today is comprised of numerous rooms, each with its own history. But it wasn’t the history of the bar that beckoned on this blustery, rainy day, but the 100 tequilas and a bartender most adept at mixing them appropriately.
When you can no longer decipher the letters, your tequila is cut off!
So it was, nestled in a dry bar, with a friendly bartender and an absolutely perfect margarita, a rainy afternoon was passed.
The solution to an afternoon of torrential downpours.
Dinner was at the Double Eagle de Mesilla. This place is out of a movie set, with a story to match.
The entry to the Double Eagle, Mesilla, NM
First, as you enter, there is the Imperial bar.
It’s a 30 foot hand-carved bar, “supported” by four gold leafed columns. The foot rail was originally from the Billy the Kid Saloon (now the Billy the Kid Giftshop, where in 1881, Billy the Kid stood trial for the assassination of Sheriff William Brady. He was found guilty but the hanging never occurred; Billy escaped to live a bit longer, rustling cattle and generally creating a bit of havoc until his death later that year.)
Massive (and valuable) antique French Baccarat crystal chandeliers hang above the mahogany hand carved bar.
The bar is certainly eclectic. Renaissance paintings hang on the walls. A Louis XV style mirror, French Baccarat chandeliers and a tin ceiling create a most atmosphere for just hanging out.
But even more fascinating than the Imperial Bar is the story behind the Double Eagle itself. It makes Romeo and Juliet look like a childs play.
From the Double Eagle website (you can read the complete story here):
The first owner of the house that is now the Double Eagle Restaurant, was the Maes family.
The family was in the import-export business. .. From the grand size of the house the Maes family built, one can see the family had big plans for the future–especially the mother.
…Her grand plans centered around her eldest son, a teenager named Armando…
Such a big house required many servants. One of the servants was a teenage girl named Inez, who is said to have been very beautiful, with long black hair reaching her waist. Armando fell in love…
Armando confessed his love for Inez, but the Senora refused to listen…Then, one day, the Senora returned early from a trip…she found beautiful Inez — in Armando’s arms.
Enraged , the Senora plunged her shears into Inez’s breast. Armando rushed to shield his beloved Inez. The Senora, unseeing, drove the shears into her own son’s back…Armando never regained consciousness and died three days later.
Armando’s former bedroom is now the Carlotta Salon and it is here that the young ghosts break wine glasses, move tables, and generally create a bit of kind, ghostly havoc. If you’d like to read more about some of the ghosts at the Double Eagle, check out this ghostly list at the bottom of the page!
Dinner was munchies at the bar, which included a Chile Relleno in tempura batter. After Carrizozo, I am on a chile relleno quest. But so far, there is no competition with the 4 Winds.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
New Mexico can be hot in the summer. Santa Fe’s elevation of 7,200 feet creates a comfortable climate. But just an hour south, the temperature will climb ten degrees and more.
I’ve been waiting months for the weather to cool enough to head south. Finally, fall! Time for a short New Mexico road trip: Three days on the road, starting with Route 285 South to Route 54 South to Carrizozo.
Here’s the 3 day route:
My route for a southern New Mexico Road Trip
Carrizozo is en route to Almagordo, which will be my base for White Sands, a place I’ve wanted to visit for some time.
And from Almagordo, to Old Town Mesilla and then to Bosque del Apache. (Visiting Hatch and Truth or Consequences along the way). Then back to Santa Fe.
I’ll be returning to Bosque del Apache in November for the The Festival of the Cranes, a celebration of photography and nature with tens of thousands of migrating birds. World renown photographers will be teaching classes and all the major camera and lens manufacturers will be there as well. Stay tuned for that!
Here’s the first leg of this trip, to Carrizozo.
New Mexico Road Trip: The Road To Carrizozo
Route 285 is a pleasant drive. It’s a great two lane road, in better condition than many “larger” highways. It cuts through the country, and in turn, through numerous small towns, many of which are partially abandoned.
An abandoned storefront, near the railroad, in Duran, NM
Duran is one such town. Not officially a ghost town, it has about 35 residents. Like many New Mexican towns, its livelihood was determined by access to the major transportation routes. The El Paso & Northeastern Railroad created jobs servicing the rail line and transportation for area ranchers. At it’s peak, nearly 300 people lived here.
But the railroad moved its operations to Carrizozo, Route 25 was built further west and over time, the residents of Duran moved on.
Duran was once a prosperous town, as reflected in some of the remaining architecture.
The lettering for the General Store and Hotel, located along the rail line, is barely visible.
The Church is locked but it’s tin roof reflects brightly in the autumn sun.
The road to Carrizozo
And then one comes to Carrizozo.
On this road trip, it was time for lunch.
The dining options in Carrizozo are limited. Everything is a bit run down, seedy even. The possibilities for a decent lunch looked dim.
I’ve long ago given up on the typical on-line restaurant reviews. Many are bought and skewed; some are even true. But I’ve come to rely more on my own instincts. I wander, read menus, sniff the air, talk to locals and generally try to assess the likelihood of a good meal. This day, I simply look for the restaurant with the most cars in its parking lot.
Hands down, it was Four Winds Restaurant.
The 4 Winds in Carrizozo, New Mexico
Decision made.
The interior did not look promising. A long counter with a window through which the food was passed from the kitchen to the dining room. Probably a good thing that I couldn’t see into the kitchen.
The menu was a smattering of Americana. Burgers to burritos. I decided to give the Chile Rellenos a go. My travel buddy opted for the Posole. I was hungry and whatever emerged would simply have to do.
Service was a bit slow. The Chile Rellenos finally arrived. The food was mounded on a plate, not too artfully.
I’d requested both red and green chile on the side.
Chile Rellenos, 4 Winds, Carrizozo
It looked like too much. Too much cheese; too much batter; too few vegetables, spilling off the plate in a careless manner.
Not to mention too many calories.
I have a saying about some of my own home cooking:
“Looks aren’t everything.”
And that certainly applied here. Because when I cut into the Chile Rellenos, I cut through a textured, perfectly fried corn meal crust and hot, molten cheese that readily oozed onto the plate. I couldn’t quite believe my first bite; so I had another. And another.
Crunch, goo and a bit of heat.
It was simply delicious.
And obviously homemade.
My travel buddy had a similar encounter, with an incredible Posole. Posole (“hominy”) is a traditional Mexican soup with as many variations as there are cooks. Generally it is a slow simmered combination of hominy, meat and spice.
Perfect Posole!
And this Posole rocked. Layers of rich chile flavor, pork and posole so perfect that it had to be someone’s grandmothers recipe.
And it was.
I have to wonder if this lunch is a fluke, or if the food is always this good.
Another road trip to Carrizozo is definitely in order.
***
New Mexico Road Trip: Carrizozo
Carrizozo started as a railroad town in the early 1900’s. The railroad, once the lifeblood of the town, no longer stops at Carrizozo. But today, many of the old buildings are being restored and a growing Arts District is emerging. Historic 12th Street is the focus of this renaissance.
One of the must sees is the Tularosa Basin Gallery of Photography which is devoted exclusively to photography of New Mexico. The gallery hosts an exclusive exhibition of the Winners of the 17th Annual New Mexico Magazine Photography Contest. These photos are simply spectacular. Visit the gallery’s website for hours and availability.
Tularosa Basin Gallery of Photography in Carrizozo
And here is a brief look at the road to Carrizozo:
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
Truchas is a small town that one might overlook. It’s well off the beaten path and it hasn’t changed much since I first visited in the mid 90’s. The Main Street is now paved and the Old Road to Taos has been usurped by highway near Santa Fe. But the stunning mountains and houses speckled across the high hills at their base are pretty much the same.
I try to remember how I came to find Truchas twenty some years ago.
I believe I was just exploring.
The High Road To Taos was far too seductive a road name for me to ignore. So I followed it. And at a bend in the road, an unpaved dirt street passed through a small village. It was that unpaved road that led me to the adobe home of Barbara McCauley and Alvaro Cardona-Hine. Here art, philosophy and an international perspective on the history of humanity merge, as Alvaro explains:
The small gallery, a tiny adobe building on the property, and a separate studio farther back on the property, held many paintings. Alvaro held classes in the studio where he taught many young artists, and the work of one took my breath away. It was as if someone had, somehow, put into form all my doubts and questions at that period of my life, on canvas:
“Presence” by Nancy Orenstone
The painting had a profound impact on me. It touched my soul, and I simply had to have it.
It was by a young artist Nancy Orenstone, who has since opened her own gallery with her husband, artist and writer Pierre Delattre, in Taos. Nancy is drawn to landscapes, yet it is her use of figures in some of her paintings that I find most intriguing. Pierre says of Nancy’s work:
Nancy Ortenstone’s art evokes the ambiguity between change and constancy, between natural forms—skies, oceans, landscapes—in their observed transformations, and the ageless, timeless white-light source from which they have emerged and to which they will return.
…How best to describe this white-light stillness that underlies the flux and flow of color in her paintings? Collectors have often said that they never grow tired of her art. One couple called her painting “an inexhaustible experience.” Why is that?
Because, it seems to me, that her paintings are not fixed images in space or time; they belong to the ageless and the timeless; they evoke a process of continuous change. This mystical relationship between the source of all created beings and its most beautiful manifestations is at the heart of her work.
And so it was, in the studio, buying Nancy’s painting, that I got to talking to Barbara and Alvaro at the Cardona-Hine Gallery.
I’d go on to house sit for them and for their bulldog, Tess. Tess snored horribly (as bulldogs sometimes do) but we became great friends. I have a soft spot for bull dogs and Tess was a doll of a dog. We walked everyday, into the forest at the end of town where towering trees shed their needles on the forest floor. At night, we’d look across the Rio Grande valley to the twinkling lights of Los Alamos, far away on the hill.
Truchas in 1995 was a bit rough around the edges (it still is, which is part of its charm). My first night housesitting, there was a knock at the door. I went to the door and opened it.
And there stood a man with a very large knife.
I opened the door to be confronted with a man with a very large knife!
I looked at him.
And he looked right back at me.
In silence.
For what seemed like an eternity.
I stood frozen, not sure what to do; not sure what was happening. What had I gotten myself into? I remembered Alvaro saying “we trust people” before he left. Why did those words suddenly come to mind?
The man at the door looked at me. He looked at Tess.
And then he smiled.
“Here,” he said, offering me the very large knife, handle end towards me. “I wanted to return this.”
I think I thanked him.
***
It’s been some years now, but I recently met up with Barbara again. Alvaro passed away some years ago. Not much has changed, except for a beautiful, spacious new gallery addition that allows many of the larger paintings to be properly displayed. The studio has been converted to a small AirBnB. There is a new bulldog. And there is a new road, this time paved, but potted with plenty of potholes to retain that certain authentic je ne sais quoi that is rural New Mexico.
Tess’ replacement
An old truck on the Main Street of Truchas, NM, which is now paved.
Fall in Truchas is simply stunning. The craggy mountains, the groves of golden aspen, and the small town come together in a breathtaking panorama. It was here that Milagro Bean Field Wars was filmed many years ago. The town is nearly identical to the one portrayed in the 1988 film. Except of course. that Main Street is now paved.
Here are some outtakes from my trip to Truchas:
If you go to Truchas…
Map from Santa Fe to Truchas, NM, by way of Chimayo
It’s a beautiful drive to Chimayo, then up the hill to Truchas.
Chimayo is a world renown sanctuary, with a reputation as a healing site. It’s often referred to as the “Lourdes of America”, referencing the famous French religious site.
Beads hung in remembrance of loved ones at Chimayo
Local families have continued the Spanish Colonial weaving traditions. You can visit the shops of the Ortega and Trujillo families and browse their beautiful creations.
Chimayo is also famous for its heirloom chile, Capsicum annuum “Chimayo”, a chile that embodies both sweet and hot, which you can sample from the various vendors in town and at the James Beard award winning restaurant, Rancho de Chimayo.
Chimayo is famous for it’s local heirloom Chile. Eat more chile, the sign proclaims!
Rancho de Chimayo was awarded the James Beard Foundation America’s Classics Award in 2016 for their attention to the history and rich culture of New Mexican food.
Rancho de Chimayo is on the road to Truchas.
If you’re looking for authentic, pass on the cooking classes and tourist places in Santa Fe, and head to Chimayo where the foods of tradition continue today.
Just up the hill, Truchas has numerous small art galleries. A tour each fall opens the galleries to the public and it’s a fun way to visit this village and enjoy some local art. From there, back to Santa Fe is about an hour. Up the road, the High Road to Taos, of course lies magical, mystical Taos.
More On Truchas and Chimayo and Environs
Chimayo is worth a visit on its own. The church, the grounds and the town are world famous. Walking about, however, one might develop a bit of an appetite. Do head up the road, around the bend and enjoy lunch at Rancho de Chimayo.
If a personal visit isn’t in the cards, and should you get a hankering for some good New Mexican food, here are some items to help you recreate some of the culinary legacies of the Land of Enchantment:
From Amazon:
Situated just 30 miles north of Santa Fe off the High Road to Taos, the highly acclaimed Rancho de Chimayo Restaurant has been serving traditional New Mexican cuisine in a beautiful setting for half a century. The atmosphere at this traditional Spanish hacienda, surrounded by mountains, is rivaled only by the fine, native cooking served in the grand early tradition by generations of the Jaramillo family. In 1991 the restaurant published a modest paperback cookbook for their silver anniversary. Twenty-five years and 50,000 copies later comes this beautiful new edition, just in time for the 50th anniversary celebrations. All recipes are completely revised and updated, with more than twenty delectable new dishes added. As an extra bonus, the book also features charming archival images as well as stunning full-color food and location photography, making this a beautiful keepsake of a special place as well as a mealtime companion to turn to again and again.
If your preferences go to red chile, here is one option.
And of course, if your preferences are green:
Or if you’re like me and simply cannot make up your mind, go for both, AKA Christmas style.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Autumn is always a spectacular combination of color, scents and scenes. In New Mexico, the aspen groves cover vast swaths of the mountain sides. Ranging from golden to almost red at times, the mountains take on an autumn palette.
With a new camera in hand (my old one is having focus problems) I naturally had to hit the road. And what better road to hit than Route 68 which heads north, along the Rio Grande, to Taos.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
Thank you for stopping by!
CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.
From Amazon:
And of course, if your preferences are green:
