I had another day before joining up with the other photographers in the group. On my agenda was Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Kili is in eastern Tanzania. Our travels towards the Serengeti would take us west.
A trip to Tanzania without at least seeing Kilimanjaro (“Kili”) just wasn’t an option. Our photographic travels were taking us west and north towards the Serengeti, not east towards the renown mountain.
So with my second free day, after a hike around Lake Duluti, it was off to Kili to see it, if not climb it.
Kilimanjaro
Kilimanjaro is a legend.
Its local name depends on who you talk to. In Swahili it is “‘Mountain of Greatness” or “White Mountain” or in Maasai, “The Mountain of Water”.
Kili was first summited in 1889 by German geology professor Hans Meyer.
More recently a Swiss-Ecuadorian, Karl Egloff, set a speed record for the mountain, going up by the Umbwe route and back via Mweka in just under 7 hours.
Most people take 6 days or so just for the ascent, and about 2 days for the descent.
There are seven established routes on the mountain, each with its own pros and cons: Marangu, Machame, Lemosho, Shira, Rongai, Northern Circuit and Umbwe.
The various approaches offer different experiences, ranging from the gentler Marangu route (which also has dorm style sleeping quarters that are especially popular during the rainy season) to the steeper but popular Machame route. Some excellent information on the various routes can be found here.
My route was via the Arusha-Himo Road and safari vehicle. And back in time for a multi-course dinner served in the English inspired dining room.
My driver, “Gift” (an English translation of his Swahili name) was the same person who picked me up at the airport, and, I learned, he would be our driver for the entire trip.
There is a saying in Swahili:
“Jina jema hungara gizani”
A good name shines in the dark
And that was certainly true of Gift who became part of our safari adventure.
Becoming a safari driver requires a fair amount of training, and that training was evident in Gift. From managing sometimes difficult road conditions (and not sending us plummeting off the road near the Ngorongoro Crater like another less fortunate vehicle) to finding extraordinary wildlife, Gift was an integral part of our safari .
Gift also took care to be sure our double diesel fuel tanks were always full; the vehicle cleaned and washed every night; that the cooler was stocked with plenty of water; and he generally looked out for all of us.
We left for Kili in the morning. Heading east along the Arusha-Himo Road, I wondered if we’d even be able to see Kilimanjaro. The 20,000’+ mountain is often shrouded in clouds. But as luck would have it, the clouds broke and the mountain appeared.
Kilimanjaro emerges from the clouds.
On the drive to Kilimanjaro, one leaves behind the dusty plains and as the altitude rises, one enters a richer, lusher climate belt. Women with huge clusters of bananas balanced atop their heads walk the road. The jungle becomes green and dense.
The road to Kilimanjaro taken from the safari vehicle
And then the gate to Kili appears. Groups laden with hiking gear gather, ready for a hike to the summit which can run from 5-9 days. Sherpas and other support staff are available to carry the food, tents and heavier gear for many hikers.
The sherpa assistance can be especially appreciated on the last day of the ascent. The push to the summit, everyone agrees, is tough. The brutal cold makes moving difficult, but the view from over 20,000 feet definitely compensates.
Like most national parks in Tanzania, the entry fees can be stiff. Hiking Kilimanjaro runs from $1,000 at the very low end to $4,000 and above. The government mandates a guide service plus fees of $600-700 per climber.
While the climb is not technical, it is not without risk. Every year about 1,000 people have to be evacuated and it is said that the number of deaths is under-reported. Being very fit, and having an experienced, reputable guide is essential.
The drive to Kili also offered some interesting glimpses into local culture. The photos below were taken mostly from a moving vehicle, but they give a sense of the environment and the people, from the towns and savannahs to the jungle at the base of Kilimanjaro.
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Being shepherded about by Gift, I found myself in a bit of a tourist bubble. Mingling was difficult.
Along with my fellow photographers, we stood out, by virtue of our skin color, our clothes and our own culture.
Safety was also a potential issue. On the one hand, not much intimidates me. On the other hand, wandering around alone with $15 -$20,000 of photo gear on one’s back was probably not the smartest idea here, or anywhere else for that matter.
But from my travels, a few observations.
I noticed that many of the women had beautiful, complicated hair styles, consisting of long braids gathered together, sometimes in a ponytail, sometimes in gravity defying loops. I wish I had taken photos of them. They were truly stunning.
And hair, I learned, is a significant part of the cultural heritage for the 125 ethnic groups, speaking 120 languages across modern day Tanzania.
“Hair played a significant role in the culture of ancient African civilizations. It symbolized one’s family background, social status, spirituality, tribe, and marital status.
As early as the 15th century, different tribes used hair to show one’s social hierarchy. Members of royalty wore elaborate hairstyles as a symbol of their stature…”
Hair styling was also a part of the social culture, and remains so for many tribes.
The tradition of hair in African women would also emerge during our visit to the Arusha Cultural Center. More on that below.
Out and about, I also noticed that many women carried substantial loads carefully balanced on their heads.
I find it curious that this tradition spans continents and centuries, tens of thousands of miles apart.
How is it that disparate cultures share so much in common?
Day 1 of the Official Safari: The Arusha Cultural Center
On Day 1 of the official safari, the group of 3 professional photographers and myself met up to visit the Arusha Cultural Center. As would become our routine for the next week and a half, Gift drove.
The Center houses all sorts of African art. Mezzanines open to a central, interior courtyard. Walkways curl up from floor to floor, with each level showcasing a different type of art. Hand carved chairs, tribal masks, painting, bronzes (old and new), and photographs were among the works presented.
Inside, the open gallery winds its way up numerous levels, all filled with African art.
And under construction is a new pavilion celebrating the work of Jane Goodall. We had just missed her by a week or so.
With or without a chance to meet Jane Goodall, the entire Cultural Center is simply amazing. The collection of masks on the lower level was, for me, totally captivating:
Okui mask from the Punu people of Gabon
This particular mask shows the Mmwo Sprit Maiden with an elaborate hairstyle. From the Arusha Cultural Center:
“The mask would be worn with a colorful costume covering her body. Although the mask has known as duma or mvidi, it represents a female guardian spirit in the initiation of young girls….
The refined features and elaborate coiffure of the Puno mask mirrors the appearance of tribal women. The white pigments…allude to the anti-witchcraft powers of this group. The Puno make only mask women, with elaborate hairstyles, and white kaolin pigments. They are worn by Moukouji initiates, who are often on stilts.”
Another mask from the collection
Dan Mask High Crest Libera
From the Cultural Center:
“The Dan mask are made of various materials, included are leather, metal fabric…This Dan mask is classic in its features with slim, closed eyes and a distant expression…
The Dan believe that spirits, known as “Du”, live in the forests and manifest themselves to humans in masks and masquerades, instructing and sustaining the Dan in life.”
And the Benin Bronzes which dated from the Benin or Edo Empire (1440-1897) was produced mainly for the court of the Oba of Beni. For more than 500 years, West African artists created objects for use in divine rituals, to honor the king.
Benin bronzes were crafted to honor the king
Close up of feline bronzes at the Arusha Cultural Center
More contemporary bronzes reflect the natural world:
Elephants in bronze atop a wooden table
Lioness Sitting, by Mike Ghaui
In addition to the art, some of which is for sale, a small village of shops offers African spices, gems and wares. Rather than shopping, I settled in for yet another amazing cup of coffee, a Zanzibar coffee filled with cardamon, cinnamon and spice.
Beans, Rice and Photography
In addition to Kilimanjaro and the Cultural Center, a visit to the cash machine for some local currency (shillings) was in order.
And I was on a quest for rice or beans.
Not to eat, but to fill my bean bag.
A photographic bean bag is a vital piece of equipment for a safari. It’s a small or large bag, filled with something like beans or rice, that sits atop the roofline or on a window sill in a vehicle. It provides a stable base for long lens photography when a tripod isn’t practical.
In Arusha, we visited a very modern market. It was immaculate, accepted VISA or cash, and had everything from candy and meat to beans and rice.
I bought more than a few pounds of rice. I’d later give the rice to Gift, to distribute to someone who could use the food.
***
The end of our first official safari day in Arusha was also the beginning of the educational portion of this safari.
The group met up, in the lovely bar back at the Serena, for our first session with Kristi.
Kristi’s grasp of photography, history and her eye for detail is astounding. She sees things the rest of us simply don’t. Time and time again, she would astound me as we traveled through the Tanzania country. We would be looking at the same scenery, yet seeing totally different images.
The first educational session focused on an overview of photography, and some key concepts for us to start integrating into our own pictures. For the first time, I felt like I had some context to analyze what creates a compelling image.
Each session with Kristi opened my eye to a new perspective on photography, composition and how I might start to develop my own, more sophisticated voice in film.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
I woke to a misty morning filled with the sounds of birds. I pulled back the mosquito netting that wrapped around the sleeping area and opened to drapes to a spectacular garden panorama.
The morning view from my hut looks out on lush gardens and other huts nestled into the jungle.
Jacaranda, flowering shrubs and numerous trees flourish on the landscape. In the distance, Lake Duluti shimmers.
Each hut has a spectacular view and mine is breathtaking. I shrug off the fatigue of travel and consider breakfast up at the lodge.
The Serena Lodge in Arusha is a collection of beautifully appointed huts, nestled on acres of manicured grounds. The property has a vaguely British feel to it, with dark woods and white starched tablecloths in the dining room, and floral prints in the bar.
Breakfast is a daily buffet that includes fresh mango, passion and other juices; eggs prepared to your liking; breads and sweets; fresh fruit; cheese and meat; baked sweet potatoes and more.
The breakfast buffet
And freshly dripped African coffee.
Rich, lush African coffee on the grassy patio
This is coffee as it should be. Each sip is rich with the essence of roasted beans. There is a body to the beverage–not a thickness but a sense of aromatic presence that translates into an almost savory, lingering flavor.
It is simply delicious. I could become a coffee drinker again.
Africa is a different place. It is simultaneously exotic, ordinary, lush, and lean. I was currently experiencing lush, although just a few miles outside the gated property, was lean.
Local life is often very rudimentary
This disconnect, from the tourist experience to the local reality is one that I will witness throughout our trip. But people everywhere seem kind and helpful. The pace is relaxed.
Back at the hotel, echoes of British monarchy seemed to linger, in the language, in the food, and in the interior architecture of the Serena.
Which got me to wondering about the history of Tanzania.
A Short History of Tanzania: The Portuguese, The Germans and the British
The region that would become Tanzania was known as Tanganyika throughout its colonial history. It would not be until April 26 of 1964 that Tanganyika and Zanzibar would be united and the name Tanzania (a blend of Tanganyika an Zanzibar) became official.
Early western influence dates back to Vasco da Gama’s 1498 visit to the region. In 1505 the Portuguese capture of Zanzibar established trade.
In the early 18th century the Portuguese ceded control to Omani Sultan Seyyid Said who, with the assistance of the Omani Arabs, conquered Zanzibar in 1840 and made it the capital of the slave trade.
Originally discovered by the Portuguese, Tanzania would also interest the German and British.
German exploration in the mid nineteen century led to the discovery of Kilimanjaro by Johannes Rebman and brought railroad transportation and roads to the area. In 1885 the German East Africa Company took over the region, bringing railroads and roads.
The German defeat in World War I and the terms of the Treaty of Versailles then ceded the territory to the British.
World War II brought more western influence to the region. One hundred thousand natives fought for the Allied forces in Somaia, Abyssinia, Madagascar and in Burma. Food became an important export for Tanganyika during this period.
After the war, Tanganyika became a U.N. Trust Territory. But the gradual transition to independence was begun. The colonial officer David Gordon Hines was instrumental in helping to develop farming cooperatives that encouraged trade.
And in December of 1961 Tanganyika became independent from the British and all European rule.
Hiking Lake Duluti
Lake Duluti is a lake in Tengeru, on the eastern edge of the eastern branch of the Great Rift Valley. It was most likely formed when a volcano collapsed, leaving behind a small caldera that filled with water.
The lake lies just beyond the gates of the Arusha Serena. A hike seemed the perfect anecdote to over 30 hours of transcontinental travel.
A guide is required, as is signing in at the entry. Beyond that, the jungle envelopes you. You are now in its element and any notions of separation vanish. Animals move about; monkeys jump through the trees. Beautiful purple Jacaranda trees are interspersed along the lakeshore.
And in the distance, 14,980 foot tall Meru rises, overlooking it all.
Meru looms over Lake Duluti
Meru isn’t as tall as nearby Kilimanjaro (19,341) but it is a more difficult and technical climb. While Kilimanjaro can be summited by most people in very good shape, Meru presents about 4,000 feet of technical climbing plus a 1,500 foot climb over nearly featureless granite.
But climbing is not on my agenda. A simple walk around Lake Duluti is.
Views from Lake Duluti
A view across Lake Duluti with purple flowering Jacaranda trees on the far shore
Canoe a trois
Looking down Lake Duluti
A bird resting lakeside
A seating area at the lake
Picnic at Duluti anyone?
The hike around Lake Duluti is an easy one. After a day and a half of travel, this was exactly what I needed to start settling into Africa.
That and a glass of wine. As the evening approached, I approached the beautiful wood bar nestled in the corner of a room set with groupings of sofas and chairs, some in a floral print reminiscent of English chintz.
“Wine?” I inquired.
A nod and a smile from the bartender.
“What kind?” I asked, not sure how detailed to make my inquiry. Savignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay?
“South African,” the bartender responded.
But of course.
And a well bodied and balanced Chenin blanc accompanied me out to the grassy patio overlooking the property.
As the sun sets, the air cools and the cicadas chirp. A Chinese group gather around one table, playing a ukulele. An Australian couple sits without speaking.
The wind moves. Every tree has its own dance. And with my first day in Africa, I start to settle in at 4,300 feet in the lush jungle.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
An African photo safari with a Nikon Ambassador is both inspiring and humbling.
Kristi Odom is one of just 35 U.S. Nikon Ambassadors. The Ambassadors are selected by Nikon as some of the most influential photographers working today.
Kristi’s mission is to to:
“Show the beauty in the natural world and to connect people emotionally to wildlife. Also to inspire others to understand the power of photography and believe in themselves that they can make change.”
She has won over 60 international photography awards and her recent work has appeared in numerous places, including the Smithsonian. To say that I’m thrilled to be studying with someone of this calibre is an understatement.
I consider myself an advanced beginner when it comes to photography. And now I am about to embark on an African photo safari with 3 professional photographers.
Can anyone say out of my league?
I bought my first “real” camera just two years ago. It was a Nikon 5500 kit with two lenses. It sat in a travel bag by my side, ready to record my travels.
But I didn’t touch it for months.
Then one day on a Florida beach, I took some photos of sanderlings. The photos weren’t anything to write home about, but for me, at that stage of my experience, they opened my eyes to the potential of photography.
Sanderlings in Ft. Lauderdale, FL
And the idea that I could possibly create beautiful, and eventually, interesting images was born.
Now, two years later, I find myself stuck.
My beginner tricks are no longer working; my photographs lack a compelling message.
From a creative perspective, I can see images, but I can’t adequately express them. I need both technical knowledge and a more broad based education in what creates a compelling image.
Enter Kristi.
We met over a late breakfast on Canyon Road at the Teahouse in Santa Fe. She was in town for a visual storytelling class at Santa Fe Photo Workshops. (Yes, Nikon Ambassadors take classes, as well as giving talks, teaching and running trips like this one to Tanzania).
Canyon Road, Santa Fe
The prospect of visiting Tanzania was intriguing, but even more intriguing was a chance to study with Kristi. Her photos are captivating. And part of this trip included a year of one on one mentorship via Skype.
The chance to learn sold me. I was going to Tanzania.
Flight Path for An African Photo Safari
Getting to Tanzania meant thirty hours of travel for a total of 9,948 miles (each direction) in three legs: from Albuquerque to Atlanta; Atlanta to Amsterdam; and Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro.
Coming home, it was Kilimanjaro to Dar es Salaam, and then to Amsterdam, Atlanta and Albuquerque.
30 Hours To Tanzania
On the ground, our itinerary was equally ambitious, as we navigated parks, washboard dirt roads and wandering wildlife:
The travel route, over mostly unpaved, washboard roads that climbed thousands of feet, then dipped back down to vast savannas. Did I mention dust?
The Itinerary for a Tanzania Safari
I really had no idea what I was getting into (this is a theme that seems to repeat throughout my life and leads into the most interesting adventures).
Africa.
Ok, it would be fun to go to Africa.
A safari.
Why not?
So it was that I found myself in a rigorous schedule that started before daylight and often ended far after dark.
I am learning that photography trips can mean long days. But long days translate into photo opportunities that you’d otherwise miss. So, along with Kristi, our safari leader and Nikon Ambassador, and two other professional photographers, I set off for Tanzania.
The travelers–four of us including Kristi–met up for a morning of African art and history and an afternoon of education in the bar at the Arusha Serena Hotel.
Entry to the bar at the Arusha Serena
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 3:Arusha to Lake Manyara
This leg included a morning safari drive followed by one on one mentoring with Nikon Ambassador Kristi Odom while we stayed at the Lake Manyara Serena with spectacular views overlooking the lake.
Water buffalo at Lake Manyara
Click here for the Drive-By Gallery, a series of photos taken en route to Lake Manyara
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 4:Lake Manyara to the Serengeti
A drive along an unpaved, washboard road up to the Ngorongoro Crater and then down into the Serengeti where we would spend two nights at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge. Our welcome to the Serengeti: A rather angry elephant that came right up to our vehicle!
Welcome to the Serengeti!
Click here for a look at an amazing elephant family we encountered as we sped for the Serengeti.
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 5 :Serengeti National Park
Evening falls on the Serengeti
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 6:Serengeti National Park to the Ngorongoro Crater
We had a glimpse of the Crater from our trip to the Serengeti. This time it was a two night stay at the Sopa Lodge at the eastern edge of the Crater.
A panorama of Ngorongoro Crater
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 7:Ngorongoro Crater
Black and white personified
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 8:Ngorongoro Crater to Tarangire
We managed two game drives into this park before heading back to Kilimanjaro Airport.
Lion in the tree at sunset
African Photo Safari, Tanzania, Day 9:Tarangire to Kilimanjaro Airport for an evening departure.
Kilimanjaro
I’ll be sharing the details of the safari in an upcoming series of posts over the next few weeks. I took about 10,000 photos and have a bit of editing to do! Stay tuned for some great adventures!
Traveling to Tanzania
I landed around 8 p.m. tired from 30 hours of transcontinental travel.
The entire plane disembarked into the Customs area, segregated into two groups: those with visas, and those without. Both lines were long and slow. Definitely get your visa ahead of time.
Just past customs, drivers await.
My driver, “Gift” (an English translation from his Swahili name), led me out into a dense and cool evening. The dirt parking lot was filled with safari vehicles. We set off, on the left hand side of the road, for the 45 minute trip to the Arusha Serena Hotel.
Saturday night in Africa is much like Saturday night anywhere. Along the road, in the dark, people meet and mingle. Occasional music and voices drifted through the open vehicle window.
I dozed, exhausted from travel. Even the swaying of the vehicle, bumping over rutted unpaved roads was not enough to wake me.
Until we arrived at the lodge.
Shimmering in the dark were massive trees, up lit by landscape lights. Piles of flowers spilled onto the grass. Chirping sounds suspended in silence filled the night.
Trees glowed in the dark as I arrived at the Arusha Serena Lodge.
The kind staff led me to my hut, a beautiful room overlooking the flowering grounds and in the distance, Lake Duluti.
Flower petals scattered on the bed, behind a mosquito net
On the bed were scattered flower petals. And around the beds, a mosquito net was pulled shut. I quickly showered, parted the netting carefully, closing it behind me, and went to bed.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
I am hardly a fashionista under the most ordinary of circumstances and on safari my focus is on practical safari clothes that will protect me from the sun and bugs; is fast and easy to launder; and comfortable.
Because most of this trip is in higher terrain, it should be a bit drier and cooler than the coastal areas like Zanzibar. And early morning game drives will most likely mean a jacket and/or sweater.
Here’s the safari clothes and personal items packing list I came up with. I’ll add some editorial notes after I return:
Documents
Passport
Vaccination Card
(I usually keep a digital copy of both on my phone and in my email)
First Aid and Medications for Safari
Hydrocortisone Gel for Bug Bites
Pepto-Bismal Pills
Gaviscon (Antacids)
Ciprofoxacin (Diarrhea))
Atovaquone-Proguanil (Malaria)
Bug Spray with DEET
Natural bug spray without DEET (I’m hoping this will work rather than the product with DEET)
Sunscreen/Moisturizer
Neosporin
Tea Tree Oil
Band Aids
Aspirin
Claritin D
The CDC (CDC.gov) also provides a medical packing list that is more extensive and covers just about anything you might need.
Safari Clothes
Safari clothes for me means protecting my skin from sun and bites. I had contemplated just wearing my hiking shoes, but instead I opted for a pair of North Face boots. Between the higher boots and full length slacks, I leave less skin exposed. Given that I react very poorly to bug bites, this was a serious consideration for me.
The boots have been broken in, tested with different sock thicknesses and they are incredibly comfortable. This winter, they’ll be a great around and about casual boot in New Mexico.
I live in black, white and gray, so I did need to pick up some safari clothes. Dark colors, bright colors, metallic fabric and the color blue are said to attract Tsetse flies. Their bites are notorious for spreading disease and causing a host of ailments. I think I’ll leave my black shirts behind!
For safari clothes, I bought a sun shirt by Coolibar; and added 2 more safari shirts from REI. I also picked up a pair of kaki pants by Kuhl. I love their outdoor clothes and the pants have a drawstring at the ankle for a snug, no-bug fit. Along with my beloved pants from Athleta (in green and gray), I should be set.
For toppers, I am bringing my Orvis travel jacket in bone; an olive green travel vest (also from Orvis); and 2 layers for warmth, one a lightweight zip jacket, the other a heavier fleece pullover.
Plus of course my hiking hat.
I am planning on simply rinsing some of my safari clothes and letting them drip dry overnight so I don’t have to pack too much. Same for underwear.
And this is a trip with just four people (all of whom are professional photographers, except of course, yours truly). No need to dress for the evening! (Hopefully we’ll be shooting photos or immersed in post production!)
All this translates into the following packing list for safari:
Safari Clothes and Personal Items
Shoes:
Boots (Wear on plane)
1 Pair sandals
Underwear, Night Wear and Toiletries
3 Pair Smartwool Hiking Socks plus one heavier pair of REI hiking socks
Underwear
Bathing Suit
Sleeping shirt
Toiletries
Pants and Tops
4 Pair Lightweight Long Pants (one of which I’ll wear on the plane)
4 Lightweight sleeveless tops to be worn alone or under a long sleeve safari or sun shirt
4 Long Sleeve Shirts: 3 Safari Shirts and 1 Sun Shirt
Jackets/Sweaters
Travel Jacket (wear on plane)
Travel Vest (wear on plane)
2 Fleece Jackets (a lightweight zip up jacket and warmer weight pullover)
Miscellaneous
Scarves: I have these circular neck scarves that are perfect for protecting your face and neck from dust or debris. They take up no room and are handy for a number of things. I’ll bring along a few, just to be safe, and I’ll wear a regular scarf on the plane. It might come in handy. And it’s not a favorite. If it gets hopelessly dirty or lost, it’s ok.
Duct Tape: Never leave home without it!
Hat: an easy way to keep the sun off one’s face.
The Final Packing Ensemble
The final packing ensemble consists of one carry on; one backpack with photo equipment on a “wheely” for easy transport throughout the airport; and one duffle bag (to be checked).
Carryon
Malarone and any other important medications
Computer charging cord and other tech hookups; mouse
Phone and ear buds
Fully charged chargers for phone (With an eight hour trip from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro, I want to be sure to have access to my phone for entertainment/reading)
Foldable toothbrush and toothpaste (nothing makes me feel better than freshly brushed teeth!)
Change of clothes – clean shirt and underwear in case of delays
Backpack
My MindShift Backpack carries all my critical photo equipment plus my 15 inch MacBook Pro. The entire backpack goes on a wheeled cart for easy transport through airports. For a detailed look at my photo equipment, click here.
Duffle Bag
All my clothes, miscellaneous camera items, empty bean bag, rain jackets (for the cameras), Wimberly Gimbal, a tripod, monopod and a video head are in this bag. It’s pretty full, but that’s fine. I do have an extra bag that will allow me to rearrange things once I’m in Tanzania, to separate the photographic must haves from my personal items. This will allow me to easily transport any additional photo equipment to and from our daily transport into the bush.
Packing Hints
Use Packing Cubes. They keep everything organized and make moving things around as simple as grabbing a cube.
Keep everything else organized in some sort of bag or container.
Together this makes packing and unpacking so simple. And you’ll never have trouble locating anything.
Final Safari To Do List
Check with Bank (for ATM access)
Check International Phone Access (I found out that AT&T has zero coverage in Tanzania. Oh well!) and Credit Card Companies. Be sure to use cards with no international transaction fees.
Get Cash (for tips and whatnot)
Download Books/Films for Reading En Route
Start Malarone Tablets (for malaria prevention)
Pretty simple! And I think I have everything covered. As long as I have my cameras (which I’m carrying with me), I’m a happy camper.
And besides, I have zero room left in my duffle. I cannot add a single thing.
I don’t know how much internet access I’ll have en route, but I’ll try to post some things to Instagram and maybe Twitter. Stay tuned for full photo galleries when I get back.
And some good tales to tell! Because isn’t that what travel is all about?
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Packing for a photo safari in Africa requires a balance of comprehensiveness and minimalism. On the one hand, you don’t want to bring more than you need. On the other hand, you most likely can’t pick up anything you forget. Particularly when it comes to camera electronics.
But long before the actual packing commences, there is a bit of planning. Airfares, visas, inoculations, over the counter and prescription medications need to be arranged. Can you carry all your photo gear? Do you dare pack it? What about weight limits and carry on requirements?
This is the second of a series of posts on packing for a photo safari, looking at the photographic equipment decisions I’ve made as I get ready for this trip. There is a check list at the bottom of the post that you’re welcome to download.
The Photo Safari: Camera Decisions
What photo gear to bring on safari?
There are many types of African safaris, in numerous locations, ranging from simple camping to ultra-luxury. This particular safari is in Tanzania, focused (no pun intended) on photography. It’s definitely on the luxury end of the spectrum.
An intense 9 day trip, with daily photo excursions and daily mentoring classes will, I hope, extend my photo knowledge considerably. Nikon Ambassador and photographer Kristi Odem will be leading the expedition. I fell involve with Kristi’s work and having met her, I think I may have found a photo mentor that will help me to evolve my skills and stretch my range.
In preparing for an African photo safari, I decided to bring a second camera body. Trying to change lenses on the go in a bumpy ride across the dusty African plain just didn’t seem like a very good idea. Too many risks: Dust in the sensor, the possibility of dropping a lens or camera body, not to mention missing a shot!
I started out with a Nikon and I’ve been pleased with their products, so a Nikon body seemed the way to go. And the new mirrorless Z series appealed to me for it’s lighter weight, compatibility with my existing lenses and the movie making capabilities.
I love my D500 (which is coming along as well), but the prospect of a lighter weight camera is immensely appealing. I may also throw my old Nikon 5500 in as an added bit of insurance. But it requires a different battery system, which means packing another set of chargers and batteries, The lithium batteries have to be carried in the backpack, not packed in the luggage.
The Two Camera Decision
When I bought my D500 last year I thought that this would be my camera for the rest of my life.
Hah!
This new Z6 is simply amazing.
There are pros and cons to using two different camera bodies. While both are Nikon, they are different. The Z6 is relatively easy to learn (at least the basics) and maneuver. It’s excellent in low light situations and I have to say, I love its light weight!
After using the Z6 for the last week, I’ve had to reacquaint myself with my D500. This has made me think hard about which body to use with which lenses. I had originally thought I’d mount the long lens on the D500 which is a more robust frame. But now I’m rethinking that.
I’ve also had to update the software in my Tamron lens to be compatible with the Nikon Z6. This took several attempts before it worked. Thanks to Tamron support, it all came together, but this is a lesson in getting things done well ahead of departure. Test everything and be sure it works.
Photo Processing and Storage on Safari
While there are cell towers in the Serengeti, coverage is said to be spotty. I usually automatically back up my files to the cloud overnight (every night), but this may not be an option on safari. So a triplicate backup system (every night) will hopefully insure my photos make it back.
I have three 2T Seagate external hard drives that come with me. Overkill perhaps, but I want to be sure that I have secure options for image storage, including movie footage. I am formatting and testing each drive before I leave.
The Nikon D500 has an internal backup system in the form of a Sandisk memory card. The Z6 does not. That makes me somewhat nervous, but the truth is I’ve haven’t had a problem to date, so I have to hope that that track record continues. I’ll format and test all the cards before I leave to be sure they record without incident.
In addition, I have 2 XQD cards per camera plus the Sandisks for the Nikon D500. I can always use the latter for overflow rather than backup storage should I need to. I have to think this will be sufficient. The 64 MB XQD cards run about $130 each. A 120 GB card runs about $200 each. The cost of an African photo safari starts to add up!
Tripod, Monopod or Bean Bag?
How to stabilize a camera on safari?
I have a perfect tripod/gimbal set up for my large lens. I bought a heavier tripod with a Wimberly Sidekick for The Festival of the Cranes at Bosque del Apache last year. It was exactly what I needed. Both sturdy and mobile, it allowed me to capture some great photos.
But on safari, will I be able to set up a tripod? Do I want to be able to do some filming with the Z6? Do I want to lug a heavy tripod (my lighter travel tripod cannot support the heavy, large lens and camera) around Africa?
I’ve decide to add a Manfrotto monopod, weight 4 lbs, to the packing list. This is an aluminum frame. I’d love a carbon fiber, but the cost tradeoff just isn’t worth it for this trip. I have to hope this doesn’t turn into a decision that needs upgrading later (welcome to the world of photography).
The head offers flexibility for filming; the specs say it should support my heavier equipment. It arrived this past week and it’s terrific. But I think I still want my heavier tripod for longer exposure shots, particularly with the 150-600mm Tamron lens.
I’ve also purchased a large bean bag from The Vest Guy for stability in the vehicle. These bags rest on the side of a vehicle to provide support, particularly for large lenses. These can be purchased from The Vest Guy directly or via Amazon. Amazon Prime members benefit from free shipping. There is an additional charge for shipping if you buy it directly from The Vest Guy.
The biggest challenge will be getting the bag filled when I arrive! People use beans, rice and all sorts of fillers. I have no idea what will be available locally. But there is a local market and that may be a quest that turns up some interesting adventure!
African traditional fabrics in a shop in Africa
The Photo Safari: How To Carry It All?
Transporting all this equipment also requires some thought. I have numerous camera bags at this point, but none of them accommodate the Tamron 150-600mm lens. It’s just too large.
Just love this Mindshift backpack!
So a quest for a camera bag commenced. I’ve been looking for some time for a combination camera bag and backpack that can accommodate the Tamron lens and my computer, as well as an extra piece or two of clothing.
I opted for the MindShift* 26L backpack in forest green (the color is just gorgeous).
The 26L fits under an airline seat. It holds all my critical camera equipment as well as a 15 inch MacBook Pro. And it’s comfortable. I can easily shoulder a fair amount of weight.
But just to make life easy, I also bought a small cart for transit through a variety of airports over the 30 hours of flight it takes to get to Kilimanjaro.
Delta allows me one personal item and a carryon. My personal item is a Kayla Town Square black bag that I take along for its versatility. I bought it at the very beginning of my travels and it’s one of the best purchases ever. It allows me to take a change of clothes and catch the overflow from my photo bag.
The carry-on is obviously my backpack.
The monopod, tripod and gimbal will go into a duffle bag, as will the bean bag and rain jackets. I have to pray that they will arrive safely. Amsterdam (the European stop en route to Africa) and I have a very mixed history when it comes to luggage.
For luggage, I ordered two inexpensive bags from Amazon. One will handle the photo spillover and all my travel needs. The other is intended for a daily bag to haul extra items (a filled bean bag, tripod, gimbal) to the vehicles. The bags fold flat to consolidate things for transport home.
Two of these bags in Forest Green will be perfect. One will be packed and checked, with the other one folded up inside. In Africa, I’ll be able to use the second bag for tripods, monopods and anything else that needs to be hauled.
The Photo Safari: Packing List
More experienced photographers will undoubtedly have a more sophisticated equipment list. I’ve been taking photos for almost two years now, so I’m still a newbie. Here is my photography packing list (which I’ll review after the trip). You can just capture this via screen shot if you’d like to use it as a guide for your own photo needs.
UV Filters- I keep a UV filter on my lens to protect against scratches and dirt. Along with a hood, this has saved me numerous times.
Neutral Density Filter
Cleaning Gear (Wipes, Blower, Brush, Spray)
Reverse Graduated Filter
Polarizer for 77mm lens (I’ve had so-so experience with polarizers. With the ability to do so much in post, I’ve decided to pass on a polarizer for the large lens (another $150-200 or so!)
Rain Jacket (for the cameras-2)
Memory, Electronics and Backup
3 Seagate Backup Drives, Formatted and Tested
3 EN-EL Batteries for Each Camera (6 Total); Battery Chargers (sufficient to charge 4 Batteries at a time). Along with Nikon batteries, I also purchased 2 Green Extreme Batteries with a charger. They’re also an EN-EL15 battery that got excellent reviews and are a bit more reasonable than the Nikon batteries.
Computer Charger, Portable Keyboard and Mouse
Extra AA Batteries
Lightening Plug In Adapters for USB ports and QXD Card Reader
USB Power Strips (2) for 120-240 volts
Adapters-British/African Style (2)
Map of Tanzania
“A map says to you.
Read me carefully, follow me closely, doubt me not…
I am the earth in the palm of your hand.”
― Beryl Markham
No cell, no problem. A good old fashioned map comes to the rescue
What did I forget?
I’m sure I’ll find out! See you in Africa! But first, next week to #TBEX in Montana (with, hopefully some great photos of that beautiful state) and then to San Diego for a TV interview with KUSI on CancerRoadTrip. For all of you who have lent your good thoughts and encouragement, thank you so much. I hope this is starting to all pay off.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
While a trip to Tanzania conjures up images of the Serengeti, some practical tasks like visas and vaccinations are needed to take on the adventure. This is an overview of my experience in getting ready for an upcoming photo safari trip.
The trip is with Nikon Ambassador Kristi Odom. Her photographs have a depth of emotion and character seldom found. I am incredibly lucky to be spending 9 days traveling and studying with her. In addition, my learning will continue throughout the year via Skype sessions. The opportunity to learn to see and to photograph with someone of this calibre is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Count me in!
***
Beryl Markham’s stories of Africa have captivated me for years. And with a photo safari planned for the end of September into October, the Dark Continent beckons.
This is a quote from West WithThe Night that has stuck with me for several decades now:
“Africa is mystic; it is wild; it is a sweltering inferno; it is a photographer’s paradise, a hunter’s Valhalla, an escapist’s Utopia. It is what you will, and it withstands all interpretations. It is the last vestige of a dead world or the cradle of a shiny new one. To a lot of people, as to myself, it is just ‘home’.”
– Beryl Markham
Africa is mystic. Those words still hold true.
But before I can set foot in this mystic land, certain modern day tasks need attention first.
Herding goats is akin to running down all the tasks needed for a visit to Tanzania, Africa
Visas and Vaccinations for Tanzania
Visas and vaccinations are a fairly common part of travel. For Tanzania, a host of inoculations are suggested. My forays into figuring out the requirements are chronicled in this post. While my trip is to Tanzania, the methodology I will be giving you can be used for any country.
Visas for Tanzania
If you google Tanzania visa you’ll get a host of official looking websites. They all want to sell you their services to get you a visa. A visa for a US citizen costs $100. Most services charge $179 to submit the application.
Instead, go directly to the country’s embassy site and order your own e-visa. You’ll need an image of your current passport, a passport quality head shot, copies of your travel arrangements, and the ability to reduce the size of some of the documents they request in order to meet their limitations on file sizes for uploading. (For Mac, simply open your file in preview; go to Tools>Adjust Size and resize the file.) One item of note: if it says to upload a jpeg file, be sure it actually is a jpeg (not a jpg file).
The Tanzania embassy site provides step by step instructions and is actually simpler to use than the numerous visa-for-hire sites that charge an additional fee. My visa was approved within a week and emailed to me.
The official Tanzania site is comprehensive. They cover everything from travel insurance for extreme sports to plastics restrictions and required vaccinations. Go directly to https://tanzaniaembassy-us.org for current information on your travel questions.
Tanzania travel questions? Contact the embassy directly.
Vaccinations for Tanzania
The other site to check out is the CDC.gov. Between this and the Tanzania site, you’ll have the information you need.
For my vaccinations, I used Passport Health, a concierge service that caters to medical travel needs anywhere in the world. I honestly did not check their prices versus visiting my own doctor. He is usually backlogged, and I was concerned that he probably didn’t keep things like typhoid vaccines on hand.
Instead, using Passport Health, I was able to get an appointment quickly. This matters. Depending on the vaccinations you require, you may need to have 2 or even three inoculations. Plan ahead more than a month before your departure to be sure you can get everything done.
I also appreciated the fact that the nurse was knowledgeable about the various vaccines needed for my trip. Traveling solo, I appreciate an extra set of eyes to be sure I’m not missing anything.
Finding the path, via numerous forms of transport.
Additional Medications for a Tanzania Safari
Malaria pills are essential (and they are not cheap!). Passport Health was able to phone a prescription directly to a local pharmacy for me. I also got a prescription for Ciprofloxacin (diarrhea).
My medical packing list includes:
Bug repellent with DEET (30% concentration). While I dread the idea of these chemicals on my skin, the risk of an infectious bite of some sort is far worse. DEET it is. I’m also going to be experimenting with some natural oils such as lavender, tea tree oil and spearmint to ward off mosquitoes.
Sunblock/Moisturizer + Sunblock: Check the ewg.org website for the healthiest recommendations for sun related products.
Benadryl /Tea Tree Oil for bug bites: I do not react well to bites and the Benadryl Gel is a must have. Tea tree oil is also going with me. It is a combination insect repellent; it has antiseptic qualities; and wound healing attributes.
You may also want to pack a general first aid kit, or at least the key elements of one.
Be prepared for whatever adventure awaits. Be sure to bring some first aid and get travel insurance.
Travel Insurance
Don’t leave home without it for a major trip.
But do read the fine print.
The basic Delta travel insurance provides protection against the cost of your trip and gives you the ability to make changes in your travel plans. It also offers fairly basic compensation for late flights and lost luggage. It’s not comprehensive, but it is adequate. Allianz, a well regarded travel insurance company, provides the Delta service.
In addition to the basic insurance offered by the airline, any number of companies offer varying levels of comprehensive travel insurance for about 10% of the cost of the trip. For a trip to Africa, you’re looking at some pretty hefty premiums. Think hard about what you really need in an emergency. I’m personally usually willing to self insure against little things. In my mind, insurance sales (somewhat like vaccination sales) are partially based on fear. Just be aware of that as you make the decisions that are right for you and your trip.
The Tanzania Embassy offers a summary of recommended travel insurance policies via Reviews.com. You can also do your own homework. I for one simply want to cover this base in the unlikely event of something catastrophic happening. Since I’m not doing any extreme sports these days, my needs are simple. And I am an optimist. I generally regard any bumps in the road as a new adventure.
And I’m ready for Africa!
General Reading on Africa
The romance of the African continent has found its way into literature for decades. Africa spells adventure and adventure (whenever possible) should include some aviation. Some of my African favorites:
Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen
“I once had a farm in Africa.” With that simple statement an adventure unfolds. Either in book or movie form, this is a breathtaking story of the continent.
While the movie scene below is in Kenya, it’s one of my favorite scenes from the entire movie:
West With The Night by Beryl Markham
One of my favorite books of all time. Buy it; read it; you’ll understand why!
Straight On Til Morning
This biography of Beryl Markham is just as good as her own book. If a bit of African adventure Bristish colonial style spins your wheels, this is a great read.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
Thank you for stopping by!
CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.
for a pair of North Face boots. Between the higher boots and full length slacks, I leave less skin exposed. Given that I react very poorly to bug bites, this was a serious consideration for me.
I’ve also purchased a large bean bag from The Vest Guy for stability in the vehicle. These bags rest on the side of a vehicle to provide support, particularly for large lenses. These can be purchased from The Vest Guy directly or via Amazon. Amazon Prime members benefit from free shipping. There is an additional charge for shipping if you buy it directly from The Vest Guy.
So a quest for a camera bag commenced. I’ve been looking for some time for a combination camera bag and backpack that can accommodate the Tamron lens and my computer, as well as an extra piece or two of clothing.
Delta allows me one personal item and a carryon. My personal item is a 
Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen
