Visiting the Galapagos

Visiting the Galapagos

A thousand miles from Ecuador, in the Pacific Ocean, are 19 islands that make up The Galapagos. 
 
The islands were made famous first by Charles Darwin and his Theory of Evolution by Natural Selection (published in 1858).  Since then, the Galapagos have beckoned travelers looking to discover this unique and isolated ecosystem.
 
This post is from my friend Charles Porter. Charles’ cancer journey has been quite the road trip. Diagnosed with Stage 4 Hodgkins lymphoma at age 30, his world was turned upside down. A promising acting career was stalled and instead Charles found himself facing a difficult and risky stem cell transplant.
 
Which succeeded.
 
CancerRoadTrip-Charles-Porter

Success with a stem cell transplant

 
 For a while.
 
The cancer is back, but immunotherapy is currently working. 
 
Cancer teaches us many things. One is to do it now! And so, Charles visited the Galapagos Islands to celebrate his 40th birthday:
 
***
 

CancerRoadTrip: The Galapagos Islands with Charles F. Porter

#NeverQuit

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Visiting The Galapagos 

 
To commemorate my big 4 0 close friends and family came together from all regions of the United States to meet for an epic adventure in the Galapagos Islands. I personally, along with my mother, brother, niece and her friend Eric left from Los Angeles. Flying through Miami and catching our breath for two nights in Guayaquil, we were able to adjust to time zone changes as well as experience local culture of mainland Ecuador. 
 
Galapagos Islands

Charles and entourage: Ecuador

 
The adventure was truly a two part celebration. We celebrated my forty years of life but we also took time to celebrate each other and how truly precious each minute of life is. With each excursion, hike or paddle in the ocean we were surrounded by one of a kind wild life amongst exotic back drops of lava rock or bustling tree tops full of birds. With each siting I was reminded how lucky I truly am. Ten years ago I was diagnosed with stage IV Hodgkin’s Lymphoma. I had a stem cell transplant in 2011 and was in remission for two years. Since then I have had three relapses and continue to treat this disease today. My brother and best friend below has endured the highs and lows throughout this fight. We celebrate the journey and all that it brings with it for this is life. 
 
 
CancerRoadTrip Galapagos

Best Friends, through thick and thin. Galapagos

 
Pictured below are my mother and the mothers of two of my closest friends. Two of the moms have battled cancer and the third, my mom, has been a care taker. Her father also passed away from cancer. This disease has affected so many of us. In fact statistics say that nearly 40% be affected by the disease. Fortunately advanced research and science has been able to extend lives and information to healthier life choices give all of us a fighting chance. 
 
Galapagos Islands

Cancer will impact nearly 40% of us.

 
I would recommend this trip to thrill seekers and those who love to just relax in the sun alike. Thankful for each day.
 
 
CancerRoadTrip Galapagos

Relaxing in the Galapagos, island style

CancerRoadTrip Galapagos

Friends

 

Charles Frederick Porter II
@neverquitcp
 

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More Reading From Charles

 

From Amazon:

Over the last five years of my life there have been many challenges. One was the fight for my life as my family, friends and I fought off stage 4 Cancer. I am now two years in remission after a stem cell transplant at UCLA. Many things changed in my philosophy of what is important in life. My circle became smaller but ever so stronger as I am able to pour more energy into relationships that mean the most to me. Many of these poems talk about that fight and what those who battled with me mean to me. You can also see a transition of a young boy turn into a grown man as I start to really search for my true meaning on earth. I always felt as though its to leave this place in a better way then when I entered. Even larger goals are in the balance as I continue to thrive as an artist and my voice starts to reach the masses. I love peace and team work and together we can make a difference. I have learned to never quit and aim high. Much love

 
 
From Amazon:
In his last book, ‘Get To Know: Unlocking the Essence in You’, Charles gives insight to the man he was before going through his battle with Stage IV Hodgkins Lymphoma and the man he became once on the other side. ‘Choose Your Path’ was written during the last three to four years of being in remission and is literally being published two weeks after Charles received the news that the cancer has returned. Making this title so much more compelling as Charles will once again try to grow from a life threatening challenge. During the years of medically and mentally being cancer free, Charles has climbed mountains, ran with the bulls and gotten engaged. Substantial changes in his mindset, actions and desires have taken place and Charles lays his private thoughts out for the world to see how he ended up on the path that he walks today. A path that no man has walked on before and one that no man will walk again. Charles intentionally looks for the path least taken simply to be able to share an experience and inspire someone to do the same. ‘Choose Your Path’, reminds us that all humans were born with a purpose. That feeling inside that keeps you awake at night should be acknowledge and if reasonable pursued. ‘Choose Your Path’ also reminds us to love ourselves and that trying to be the best that we can be is never a bad mission. This book serves as voice for a generation who realizes that humanity needs a philosophy of love and encouragement in order to sustain and grow. Without it the ideology of every man for himself will spread. History has told that story many times before, try this one. ‘Choose Your Path’ 2015
 

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Iconic Drives: San Simeon to Big Sur

Iconic Drives: San Simeon to Big Sur

Ninety miles of winding two lane coastal highway extends from Carmel to San Simeon, passing through the tiny town of Big Sur. It’s wild; it’s spectacular; and it has its challenges. Narrow lanes, falling rock and soil, and plunging cliffs make for an interesting ride. It’s a drive for second and third gear and your total attention. 

 

CancerRoadTrip-San-Simeon

CA Route 1 twists and turns through sometimes treacherous passages, amidst relentless seaside beauty.

 

The twists and turns of Highway1, San Simeon to Big Sur

The northern start of the drive, in Carmel, is highly civilized, with art galleries, restaurants and the famed 17 Mile Drive. But as one heads south, the terrain becomes more rugged and wild.

Rocky, crashing coasts.

Fingers of fog.

Brilliant sun on blue water.

 

Big Sur, San Simeon

A small A-frame house sits atop a hillside that plunges down to the Pacific alongside Highway 1 in CA

Coastal plants, Big Sur

 

 

Should you decide to drive this, check on the road conditions. There is work being done and just last year mud slides closed the highway. Also be sure to fill up your car ahead of time. Gas along the route is $7+ per gallon.

 

 

The CA coast, Big Sur

Big Sur has some of the most spectacular coastal views anywhere.

 

 

San Simeon

The southern point of the trip is San Simeon, home to Hearst Castle. Built by William Randolph Hurst over a 30 year period, with architect Julia Morgan turned his 250,000 acre ranch into a massive country home with indoor and outdoor pools; tennis courts; and lavish art and furnishings.

 

 

Hearst Castle, San Simeon, Big Sur

Photo Credit: iStock

Hearst Castle Indoor Pool

The indoor pool at Hearst Castle holds 250,000 gallons of water

 Hearst Castle

One of the smaller library rooms at Hearst Castle

Cayucos, Central Coast CA, Hearst Castle, San Simeon, Big Sur

Zebras roam the pastures at Hearst Castle in San Simeon

Cayucos, Central Coast CA, Hearst Castle, San Simeon, Big Sur

San Simeon beach residents

Cayucos, Central Coast CA, Hearst Castle, San Simeon, Big Sur

San Simeon is a small town on the coast at the entry to Hearst Castle. The restaurant here is excellent! Beef from the Hearst Ranch. Fish from the sea. Plus a winery.

 

 

While this is a well traveled tourist route, there is a reason to visit. The coast line is beyond spectacular and the touch of history a la William Randolph Hearst makes for a fascinating day’s outing. And then, just south, is the less traveled path through Edna Valley, home to the Pinots and Chardonnays that thrive in this cool coastal climate.

But absolutely no wine on CA Route 1! This route requires your total attention.

Happy driving.

More Reading On The Central California Coast

Central Coast Pinot

Photography of The California Central Coast: From The Beach To the Vineyard

 

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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory! 

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CancerRoadTrip: The Docuseries

CancerRoadTrip: The Docuseries

So much is happening with CancerRoadTrip, ranging from donations to new partners! I thought I’d write a brief post so that everyone is in the know!

As you know, we are giving seven people impacted by cancer an amazing luxury healing retreat. And we’re capturing it on film for education and inspiration for all of us.

Why?

Do you know anyone who’s been through cancer who couldn’t use a healing retreat?

You can help spread the word by simply sharing CancerRoadTrip with your social networks. (The buttons are on the left hand side of the page, in orange. Just click and share!)

Everyone knows someone with cancer.

Let’s do something about this!

 

Tax Deductible Donations

 

CancerRoadTrip is now able to take tax deductible donations through the fiscal sponsorship of the New Mexico Film Foundation.

It’s simple.

There are two ways to donate:

 

An Ongoing Donation

For just $1 a month, you can be part of the project and in the film credits. 

For just $1 a month, you can be part of the film! We have created a special section in the film credits for your words to be heard. Leave an inspirational thought for someone fighting cancer; or leave a thought in memory of a loved one.

CancerRoadTrip donations

I hope you’ll consider supporting this project with a monthly donation.

Click Here To Learn More 

 

A One Time Donation

You rock! You’ll get a thank you from the New Mexico Film Foundation for your generous donation, along with a receipt for tax purposes.

Memory, cancer, wellness, retreat, cancerroadtrip donation

 

 

New Website Features

 

In My Thoughts

Emotions can overwhelm our ability to find the right words. But it doesn’t have to be hard. A few simple thoughts:

 

Love you

Thinking of you

Sending you good energy

 

That’s all it takes.

And your name appears with your good wish, in the film credits.

Check out our new page, In My Thoughts for details.

cancerroadtrip donation

 

Press

Yup. The press has started! And we have more on the way.

Check out what people are saying about CancerRoadTrip!

 

cancerroadtrip donation, CancerRoadTrip news

 

More Behind The Scenes Info on CancerRoadTrip:

 

The Blog: Behind The Scenes

Visiting LA for the NATJA Awards

 

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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory! 

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Travel Minimalist: 17 Reasons Why Less Is More

Travel Minimalist: 17 Reasons Why Less Is More

17 Reasons for Going Travel Minimalist

The Unintended Consequences of #CancerRoadTrip

 

This post was originally written as I was about to take off on CancerRoadTrip. But for some reason, it didn’t come over when we redid the website in late 2018. So I thought I’d share it again. It’s interesting to see my outlook here, in June 2017, as I prepare to leave all I know behind. And then to read the adventure as it unfolds.

 

What is a travel minimalist?  You can only carry so much! And now that I’m in the final stages of packing, the ability to let go is flowing with more ease.

The most remarkable aspect of this is the freedom I am feeling.  Here are some of the unintended consequences that are defining the start of this journey.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #1: Hasta La Vista

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #1: Hasta La Vista

 

“Hasta la vista, baby.”

 

After a wet winter, cheat grass is everywhere. Dandelions are popping up in lieu of lawn. The kale in my garden is already bolting. The good neighbor fence isn’t looking so good.

I want to leave the house looking good for the new owners, but frankly, this is partly why I’m moving on. I simply don’t want to weed, cut or clip anymore. I don’t want to paint, caulk or fuss. I want to walk the beach, swim with the Galapagos turtles and enjoy the Australian Open. Hasta la vista!

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #2: Say Goodby to Insurance, Utility and Property Taxes

 

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #2: Say Goodby to Insurance, Utility and Property Taxes

 

“…but in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.”

-Benjamin Franklin 

 

Every year my taxes increase with no added benefit; utilities never seem to go down; and insurance never comes through when you need it. Remind me why I signed up for this life? Travel minimalist means less overhead gives me more time and more financial freedom.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #3: Tempus Fugit

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Travel Minimalist Reason #3: Tempus Fugit

 

“Seize the day, then let it go.” -Marty Rubin

 

Living one moment at a time brings richness to life.  As I get older, time seems to move ever faster. And as I rush into the unknown, as time counts down, the precious quality of the moment becomes everything.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #4: Freedom

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #4: Freedom

 

“Freedom is not the absence of commitments, but the ability to choose and commit yourself to what is best for you.”

– Paulo Coelho

 

Freedom comes in many forms.

There can be freedom from routine. Freedom from possessions. Freedom from dogma.

Freedom from competition was an eye opener for me. I found it fascinating that a part of me rejoiced from not being able to play competitive tennis anymore. I was actually tired of the need to compete and be measured, socially and athletically.

Both David Servan-Screiber, MD PhD and Paul Klanithi, MD commented on the painful freedom that resulted from dropping through the so called real world into cancer land. Both had to leave the social amour and status of their physician-white-coats in the waiting room, and face their diagnosis as a person and a patient, not a doctor. (See #CancerBookClub for more on this.) This unsought freedom offered both men new perspectives on their lives and on  medicine. 

“…through my illness, I regained a certain freedom. The obligations that had weighed me down…were swept away.” -Paul Klanithi, MD

With cancer, your standards are forced to change. The fluff falls away. What remains is so little, but so meaningful. And in this there is such great freedom.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #5: Lightness of Being

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #5: Lightness of Being

 

“When the heart speaks, the mind finds it indecent to object.”

-Milan Kundera 

 

As the emotional and physical clutter falls away there is an amazing lightness of being. Soulfulness comes from the heart, and a life less cluttered lets your heart shine more.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #6: Curiosity

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #6: Curiosity

 

“Curiosity is the one thing invincible in Nature.”

– Freya Stark

 

Unencumbered by to do lists and tasks, my curiosity comes to the forefront, to see the world with the eyes of a beginner. With fresh eyes and an open heart, new paths lead to wonder and discovery.

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #7: Presence

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #7: Presence

 

 

Yesterday is history,

tomorrow is a mystery,

today is a gift ,

which is why we call it the present.

 

Simply being present is a wonderful gift.

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #8: Meaningful Experiences

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #8: Meaningful Experiences

 

Collect moments, not things.

 

Moments of emotion and memory trump material goods. I am a collector of maps and various other things. Each material object is tied to an event or an experience. Yet the experience resides in me, not in the object. With my maps and whatnot in storage, it is only the moments that stay with me that truly matter. Do the moments outnumber the things?

We live in a world where the constant barrage of media and ads scream for attention, across multiple devices, 24/7. It’s terrifyingly easy to get caught up in the staccatos of society, to let the madness of crowds sway your path. Stop and listen to your heart, to your soul. What most matters to you? What energy do you choose to collect and carry?

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #9: Strength Comes In Many Forms

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #9: Strength Comes In Many Forms

 

“Some people believe holding on and hanging in there are signs of great strength. However, there are times when it takes much more strength to know when to let go and then do it.”

-Ann Landers

 

Leaning out my life, I no longer need to carry what does not suit me, practically and psychologically. It’s an iterative process, discovering this, letting go of that. This next phase of my life, I will be traveling lighter, and, I can only hope, perhaps wiser, as I cast the past to the wind.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #10: Simplicity

 

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” -Clare Boothe Luce

 

 

 

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #11: Friends

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #11: Friends

 

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” – Tim Cahill

 

Friends come and friends go. A few stay the course. And a few new ones walk along side, for as long as they do. One of the most interesting facets of cancer, blogging and social media is that I have formed a global network of people who “get it”.  I am deeply grateful for these souls in my life. May we stay the course together.

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #12: Life

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #12: Life

 

 

“The mass of men lead lives of quiet desperation, and go to the grave with the song still in them.”-Henry David Thoreau

 

We’ve all been there. The dullness of routine, of duty, of necessity kills our soul, a day at a time. Habit and expectation guide our lives.

Is this life?

We need to see our worlds differently to choose differently. Our time is limited. What do we choose?

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #13: Joy

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #13: Joy

 

Dance Lightly With Life:

Today is your day to

dance lightly with life,

sing wild songs of adventure,

soar your spirit,

unfurl your joy.

-Jonathan Lockwood Huie

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #14: Stuff

 

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #14: Stuff

 

“Change the way you look at things and the things you look at change.”

-Michael Michalko

 

Do I need one more pair of shorts? More than one pair of black slacks? An extra pair of yoga pants when leggings will do?  Packing forces one to pare down and reconsider what is really necessary. What brings you joy? The simplicity that results from these choices is incredibly liberating.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #15: Organization

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #15: Organization

 

“The way to find a needle in a haystack is to sit down.”

-Beryl Markham, West with the Night

 

I’ve been forced to stop and get very organized. Everything from how my power cords get stored to electronic integration between phones, watches, computers and cameras. There is no room for useless duplication. Everything must have a purpose. And the only way to do this is to slow down, and one by one, do what has to be done.

 

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #16: Possessions and Permanency

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

Travel Minimalist Reason #16: Possessions and Permanency

 

“If everything I possessed, vanished, suddenly, I’d be sorry.

But I value things unpossessed.

The wind, and trees, and sky and kind thoughts, much more.”

-Dorothy Hartley

 

When I finished packing my books, I faced an empty bookcase and stacks of cardboard boxes. Are a stack of nondescript cardboard boxes the sum of my reading life? Can a dish pack of carefully collected plates share the stories of the dinners they hosted? And all the handbags and shoes in stacks of boxes. Will they even walk with me again?

It’s interesting that we have greater longevity and reach through our electronic existence than through the physical things we acquire. At some point, the possessions that have defined so much of my life will be scattered like dust in the wind. But the experiences shared in this blog might just live on.

 

Travel Minimalist Reason #17: Soulful Resonance

travel minimalist CancerRoadTrip CancerRoadTrip

ravel Minimalist Reason #17: Soulful Resonance

 

Find a place inside where there’s joy,

and the joy will burn out the pain.


– Joseph Campbell

 

Everywhere I go, I share the story of #CancerRoadTrip. And it resonates with people. Every one of us has thought of just chucking it all and walking off. Everyone of us has encountered events that set our lives on a different course. Every one of us wonders about the choices we make and the life that results. And every one of us has been touched by cancer.

Being forced to look at my own mortality; to think about what I want to do with the time I have left; being forced from my home only to find a different path–these are all choices and events that resonate with my soul. I am immensely grateful for this aspect of #CancerRoadTrip.

 

#Gratitude

#Soulfulness

#Kindness

 

 

More Thoughts From The Road

CancerRoadTrip: How It All Began

Weathering The Storm

Traveling The Timeline of Now

Thoughts On The Metaphor Of A Road Trip (This post won an honorable mention from the 2018 NATJA Awards)

11 Life Lessons Learned From The Road

 

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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory! 

Follow me on Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, and at Anti-Cancer Club.  Connect with me!  I may need a place or two to stay along the way!

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

Off Piste in Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii

Off Piste in Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii

Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii or “Valley of the Rocks” is the Navajo name for Monument Valley.

It is predawn and I am here on a photo mission. I have hired a Navajo Guide to take me off piste, away from the familiar 17 mile loop drive, and into the desert for in search of a different perspective of this well traveled valley.

At O-Dark-O’Clock we start our foray into the night. The large SUV swaggers on its frame as it descends down the hill road. Water from the recent rains pool in the rutted dirt.

If it were light, I would see that the tops of the eastern buttes are touched with snow. But that perception eludes me before dawn, when all is dark. It is the darkness of nowhere, and it is everywhere.

The headlights shine their narrow beam across the red orange sandstone soil and the scrub brush. The landscape jumps to life in vivid color then recedes back into darkness as we pass. We are a tiny ray of light in a sea of endless night. Our vision is limited to what lies immediately before us.

Yet there is power in the dark. Here in the predawn hours, one’s senses are heightened. It’s a primal awareness where one feels the presence of the earth and the smallness of man. It’s a primordial power of the ages, that speaks to one’s soul a hundred years past and a hundred years hence.

There is also power in the earth. It is too dark to distinguish the rock forms as we pass, but you can feel their energy if you submerge yourself in the stillness.

The Mittens, considered to be the hands of a deity among the Navajo,  offer their blessing and perhaps protection as we pass and are absorbed by the night.

The Navajo consider this valley sacred. In the wee hours before sunrise, it is easy to see why. The rock, the wind and the sky speak in a language lost to the modern world. But words are not needed. It is a magical and primal language, that connects on an entirely different level.

It is not long before we are off piste. This is four wheel drive country. The road roughens and the dark is unrelenting. We bounce along rugged paths, climb rocks and splash through puddles. It is easy to become disoriented.

The tires sink into the mud pools and water splashes against the door. The engine engages and with the skill of my Navajo driver, we pull forward.

Until we stop.

In the dark.

Tully Begay, my Navajo Guide, points to the east. “The sun will rise there. Follow me.”

He takes off at a brisk pace, sure of himself even in the dark.

I pick up my camera gear and follow him into the desert. I have a flashlight but it would seem crass to access it. Besides, I struggle to keep up with the firm stride of my guide, as he heads off into the sand.

I realize that the moon is peaking from behind the clouds and the orange sand is reflecting just enough light to see. I hope I don’t encounter anything I don’t want to encounter on the desert floor.

The moon breaks through the cloud cover, shedding just enough light to follow my Navajo Guide into the desert.

And then we stop.

“Here,” Tully motions.

And we wait.

Click Here For The Monument Valley Photo Gallery

It is cold. I set my camera atop the tripod. I’ve come as prepared as possible, with batteries charged and the remote cord already connected. I know that I’ll need the steadiness of the tripod and the stillness of a remote release for the long exposure, predawn pictures I hope to capture. If only the clouds would part…

The sun appears on her own time and the valley comes to light. First slowly, then all at once. But on this morning, there is sun, clouds and mist, all simultaneously, scattered across the land.

The sun illuminates purple clouds at dawn, in the Navajo desert surrounding Monument Valley.

And then the sun rises.

In the light the valley loses none of its magic, but I feel I have lost that voice of eternity that perhaps speaks only in the dark. Another day dawns, this one partly shrouded in cloud and mist.

Low hanging clouds partly obscure Monument Valley

Clouds cradle the Monuments of Monument Valley.

The Monuments fade into the mist.

Listening In the Valley of Rocks

Indians have said this is a sacred valley. And before them the Anasazi found a home here as well. Remnants of that civilization are scattered through the desert if you know where to look.

anasazi, Valley of the Rocks, Monument Valley

An Anasazi grain storage bin nestles in the curve of the rock, high off the desert floor

Knowing where to look will also bring you to the Ear of the Desert. Something about this massive formation makes one stop and, well, listen.

The Ear of the Desert

Does she listen to the wind? To the wild horses that still roam the land?

The air that pours through her portal, what does it whisper? And to whom does she share her secrets?

Like many of the lesser known, but most interesting parts of the Valley, the Ear of the Desert is outside the 17 mile circle and not accessible without a Navajo Guide. With a guide, there are Anasazi ruins to visit and vistas that will take your breath away.

In this giant playground where the wind chases the sand, and the sand carves the delicate curves into the rock, carvings both intricate and crude grace the land.

The desert sand is intensely orange. The soft sandstone formations deposit their soil at their base, and the wind whips it into a rippling expanse.

It’s a land of wonder and awe.

I have a history with Monument Valley. It goes back twenty years or so. It was a stop that was partly by chance and it was by chance that I found the perfect old turquoise bracelet that I’d been seeking but had, so far, remained elusive.

An old Indian woman had approached me with half a dozen stunning stone bracelets. Most were sized for a man. Even so I seriously considered them. The workmanship and stones were things you do not find in a tourist shop. They were old and worn. There were stories that went with each one. I still recall a deep green turquoise bracelet with a richness of color that took my breath away.  But I ended up settling on just one, one perfect one, just for me.

Shopping Monument Valley, Navajo jewelry

An old turquoise bracelet from the Indian woman at Monument Valley

That trip, some decades past, presented a different valley. There were no amenities and the road was just a dust track. Wild horses ranged freely through the land. There was little traffic. It was a more wild and mystical place.

The rock formations have remained the same, but now Monument Valley is a well run business. The relatively new Navajo run hotel, The View, provides on site lodging. Today’s experience, along the 17 mile drive offers a view of the valley, but seems to lack the deep soul of a more primitive time.

My Navajo Guide agrees.

The tourists, he explains, line up bumper to bumper in the summer and drive the loop. But they miss the Valley. You have to go into the land to see it.

I ask him about the names of the rock formations, particularly Elephant Rock. Where would the ancient Navajo’s have seen an elephant, I wondered.

Most of the formations were named by Goulding, he replied.

And Goulding is an integral part of the valley’s history.

Goulding’s, Hollywood, and A Bit Of History On Monument Valley

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Views of Monument Valley (above)

Monument Valley has always been considered a sacred place by the Navajo. Given its remote location, it escaped the Spanish invasion in the 17-18th centuries that disrupted Indian culture in other southwest locales.

While the Navajo in the area avoided Spanish occupation, they would not elude the Americans. In 1862, Col. Kit Carson was tasked with rounding up the tribe and relocating them to a reservation in Bosque Redondo, NM. The Indians fled and in 1868 the government relented, and the land eventually was returned to the Navajo.

But it was Hollywood that put Monument Valley on the map.

Almost against its own will.

Harry Goulding, a Colorado trader and sheep herder, bought 650 acres at Big Rock Door Mesa (Tsay Kissi Mesa) ini 1923 where he and his wife “Mike” would establish Gouldings. Over time the trading post grew and a two story sandstone house was built. Cabins would be added to accommodate the growth in traffic.

Goulding's Trading Post, Monument Valley

The sign on the original Goulding’s Trading Post, now a museum

With the Depression in the 1930’s, the area was hard hit. Harry Goulding had heard that Hollywood was scouting for southwestern locations. So with his last $60, he headed for Hollywood.

Where he was largely ignored.

But perseverance (and perhaps a bit of desperation?) paid off and Harry left with a $5,000 deposit from John Ford.

The first film by John Ford, Stagecoach, put both Monument Valley and a new actor, John Wayne, on the proverbial map. All thanks to Harry Goulding.

Monument Valley

Hosteen Tso Holiday, rumored to be the most powerful medicine man in Monument Valley.

The film industry provided employment for many in the valley and beyond. Among those hired by Ford was Hosteen Tso Holiday, a locally famous medicine man who was tasked by Ford with providing snow in October. And lo and behold, snow appeared, just as directed.

Since that film many more have followed and Goulding’s became something of an institution.

In time, the original sandstone building became a museum, which is well worth a visit. There is a fascinating and charming room called The Movie Room which features all sorts of film memorabilia relating to productions from the site. You can visit John Wayne’s cabin and stay for lunch at the Lodge. Goulding’s isn’t fancy, but it’s an integral part of the history of the Hollywood cowboy genre and the history of Monument Valley.

The Film Industry in Monument Valley

Cowboys and Indians naturally come to mind, as they should. Stagecoach (1939), My Darling Clementine (1946), She Wore A Yellow Ribbon (1949), The Searchers (1956), and  How The West Was Won (1962) are all classics filmed in Monument Valley. But the site has been used in a wide variety of other films including Easy Rider (1968), 2001 A Space Odyssey (1968), The Eiger Sanction (1975), National Lampoon’s Vacation (1983), Back To The Future Part III (1990), Forrest Gump (1994), and The Lone Ranger (2013).

And many more.

John Ford Point is named after the famous filmmaker that helped put Monument Valley on the map:

Tse Bii' Ndzisgaii, valley of the rocks, photo tours, Phillips Photo Tours, photographing Monument Valley

The person in the image provides a sense of scale of John Ford Point in Monument Valley.

The western genre which launched Monument Valley into Hollywood fame actually encompasses literature as well. The Last of the Mohicans by James Fenimore Cooper;  Mark Twain’s classic Roughing It; and Zane Grey’s novels all inspired the evolution of the film industry in the valley.

Trivia question: What was the first film filmed in the valley?

Answer: The Vanishing American (1925).

Tuck that one away for a fun fact!

Click Here For The Monument Valley Photo Gallery

Getting To Monument Valley

Trip to Monument Valley, directions to Monument valley

Flying into Las Vegas, NV and driving is probably the easiest way to visit. But I chose to drive.

The drive from Santa Fe to Monument Valley is about 5 and a half hours, give or take. And in this part of the country, March is not quite winter, not quite spring.

Anything can happen.

From Santa Fe, I headed south to NM 550, then north. The drive up 550 through Cuba is rimmed with stunning red rock. The road cuts through Cuba, a small town. I suspect that Cuba, like many small towns along the “major” New Mexican travel routes, makes a substantial part of its living off of speeding tickets. Slow down as you go through these towns. I learned this lesson en route to Madrid.

But today’s route is north. Rain was forecast but when I hit Shiprock, it didn’t rain, it poured.

Hail.

Sheets of hailstones descended in curtains. You could see the frozen squall approach and dump it’s iced balls all over the road. Then a respite. Then another squall. The road was rough, made slick by the weather.

Lightning, hail and rain poured over the land, sometimes all three simultaneously. I felt almost battered, by the wind, the ice and the rough pavement. I stopped twice to be sure I didn’t have a flat tire.

But by the time I got to Shiprock, the worst was behind me.

Shiprock in Northern New Mexico

Past Shiprock, there are two approaches to Monument Valley, either through Kayenta or Bluff.

Take the route through Bluff.

Because you’ll cross the San Juan river, travel through Mexican Hat, and see some spectacular western scenery as you approach Monument Valley from the east. I actually took both roads, coming in through Kayenta and back through Bluff. Bluff is the more scenic of the two routes, and offers access deeper into Utah and the spectacular vistas in that area.

Click Here For The Monument Valley Photo Gallery

Lodging in Monument Valley

If you want to stay near the valley there are two choices: Gouldings and The View.

The View is a relatively recent and pricier addition, located at the entrance to the park. It’s Navajo run (and dry–no alcohol on the premises, and Goulding’s to the north is in Utah. If you crave a beer after a hot day in the valley, it’s strictly BYO). Built in 2008, The View offers free standing cabins and premium and Starview rooms in the main building.The Starview are located on the third (top) floor and offer more of a sky view.

I stayed in a Premium room and the view was terrific:

The morning view of Monument Valley from my room at The View.

“So this is where God put the West.” – John Wayne

Like many places these days, Monument Valley offers a well traveled tourist experience. But that is such a limited dimension to this sacred valley.

If you allow yourself to move with the sun and the wind, the valley opens to you. Leave go the tourist clock; embrace earth time and go off piste.  What you find is up to you.

If you go, consider one of the Navajo Guide services to take you beyond the 17 mile loop. Phillips Photography offers four wheel drive access into this magical land.

I was obviously moved by the power of this valley. Let me leave you with some Navajo words of wisdom:

Walking in Beauty: Closing Prayer from the Navajo Way Blessing Ceremony

(With the refrain in the native Diné)

In beauty I walk
With beauty before me I walk
With beauty behind me I walk
With beauty above me I walk
With beauty around me I walk
It has become beauty again

Hózhóogo naasháa doo
Shitsijí’ hózhóogo naasháa doo
Shikéédéé hózhóogo naasháa doo
Shideigi hózhóogo naasháa doo
T’áá altso shinaagóó hózhóogo naasháa doo
Hózhó náhásdlíí’
Hózhó náhásdlíí’
Hózhó náhásdlíí’
Hózhó náhásdlíí’

Today I will walk out, today everything negative will leave me
I will be as I was before, I will have a cool breeze over my body.
I will have a light body, I will be happy forever, nothing will hinder me.
I walk with beauty before me. I walk with beauty behind me.
I walk with beauty below me. I walk with beauty above me.
I walk with beauty around me. My words will be beautiful.
In beauty all day long may I walk.
Through the returning seasons, may I walk.
On the trail marked with pollen may I walk.
With dew about my feet, may I walk.
With beauty before me may I walk.
With beauty behind me may I walk.
With beauty below me may I walk.
With beauty above me may I walk.
With beauty all around me may I walk.
In old age wandering on a trail of beauty, lively, may I walk.
In old age wandering on a trail of beauty, living again, may I walk.
My words will be beautiful…

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The Matrix: Wendy Wagner Part 2

The Matrix: Wendy Wagner Part 2

The Matrix is the set of daily experiences that experiences that make up our lives.

Can we change our perceptions to change our experience?

If so, what might we choose? 

 

The Matrix: Wendy Wagner, PhD

 

This is the second part of my interview with Wendy Wagner, PhD. The first part is here.

A cancer diagnosis takes many of us on a road trip into our own souls, to discover meaning, perspective and perhaps a new path for our life. My discussion with Wendy ranged over so many topics, that rather than try to segment each one in a short video, I decided to simply share the entire discussion. 

 

Wendy Wagner, PhD: A Road Trip Into The Psyche, Part 2

 

 

 

 

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable.

Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart.

But that’s okay.

The journey changes you; it should change you.

It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness,

on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you.

Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Anthony Bourdain

 

 

Life is a journey. 

Cancer is a journey.

Together they are the ultimate road trip.

Where might we go and what might we learn?

travel, matrix
 

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More on The Matrix

What is the Matrix?

I call it the set of daily decisions and experiences that make up our lives.

Can we change our perceptions and change our experience? If so, what would we choose?

Here are some more posts contemplating life, travel and how we construct our matrix to view our world:

The Matrix: A Road Trip Into The Psyche

Healing Travel for a Better Matrix

Gratitude: A Habit For All Times

11 Life Lessons Learned From The Road

Traveling The Timeline of Now

Traveling With Cancer: A One Year Anniversary

Thoughts On The Metaphor of a Road Trip

 

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matrix

 

If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:

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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory! 

Follow me on Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, and at Anti-Cancer Club.  Connect with me!  I may need a place or two to stay along the way!