A Cuban Inspired Culinary Tour in Miami’s Little Havana
Little did anyone know that New Year’s Day 1959 would change the course of Miami’s history and the history of Little Havana.
Castro’s rise to power led to a wave of immigration, starting with upper middle class and wealthier Cubans looking to sit out the revolution in South Florida. But sitting out turned into settling in. And this migration transformed the ethnic and cultural map of Miami, taking it from a retirement backwater to an international Latin city.
While Latino culture is now integral to the Miami scene, the roots of this immigration wave start with the first wave of immigrants who settled in and around Calle Ocho (8th Street) to create the neighborhood known as Little Havana .
Little Havana
Nestled just west of downtown Miami, Little Havana is a neighborhood with soul and character. More and more in my travels, I am on a quest for soul. Not shopping, not tourist experiences, but the institutions, food, habits and people that make a place its own.
Little Havana’s soul grows out of the immigration of both the 1960’s and the 1980’s which embraced over 700,000 Cuban refugees who made it here, often in small leaky boats. Today, over 1.5 million Floridians identify themselves as Cuban.
Since that heyday, the area has seen some economic decline, and immigration from other groups seeking a spot in America. But the importance of this neighborhood—culturally and historically– is recognized if not designated on the National Historic Register who named the neighborhood on its annual list of 11 Most Endangered Places. In 2017, the Trust declared it a national treasure.
And a treasure it is. The combination of rich culture and politics have an inherently sticky quality, even decades later as people meet to share both over a game of dominoes in Maximo Gomez Park (aka Domino Park).
People meet in Domino Park to play dominos, share points of view and pass the time with friends.
In Little Havana, dominoes brings people together in Maximo Gomez Park on Calle Ocho
Visit the slide show gallery for more pictures and information on visiting Little Havana.
Any trip to Little Havana needs to start with a shot of Cafe Cubano to get the day rolling. That perfect intense blend of espresso-like bitter and sugar-sweet (from a perfectly dissolved cube of sugar) leaves your taste buds lingering for just a bit more. At La Ventanita the barista pours the thick liquid into little cups at a street side bar. Morning coffee here is an institution.
Photo by Asoggetti on Unsplash
An institution on the other end of the spectrum, just up the Calle Ocho (8th Street) is The Ball and Chain, a 1930’s club that hosted jazz notables including Billie Holiday, count Basie and Chet Baker. Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitgerald are rumored to have performed here, but no solid evidence has been found.
Mists create a cooling respite for dancers at Ball and Chain in Little Havana
Salsa music, dancing and a bar with the most perfect mojito combine at the intersection of slightly seedy and historic. It all feels so good.
Cooling mist pours from nozzles overhead under the green and white striped canopy. A band plays; a dancer dances. Fresh cane juice is squeezed for the most perfect mojito. In the back, a patio and stage offer an outdoor entertainment area.
Sit, have a mojito. Listen to the beat of the music. Outside of Cuba, this may be the best mojito you will find. And these days, who knows, it may simply be the best.
The Ball and Chain Saloon opened in 1935. The history of this establishment is nothing short of a microcosm of the history of the times through which it has lived. Click here to visit their website for a detailed account of the owners and the ups and downs of this Little Havana bar.
The day I visited it was late morning and already the music poured from the saloon onto the street. A dancer, a gentleman, salsas across the dance floor, beckoning the bystanders in:
All sort of remnants of Cuba are intertwined in daily life. Along Calle Ocho, mom and pop shops, cigars, pressed sandwiches, art galleries and more reflect the culture of Little Havana.
A bit further down the street, hand rolled cigars from Pedro Bello’s Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company displays over 100 years of family ownership and their expertise in the art of hand rolling a cigar.
Hand rolling is an art form perfected in Pedro Bello’s Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company
Pedro Bella is a legend of sorts. Many days he sits outside the shop, smoking his cigar, next to the wooden Indian where he poses for pictures and passes the day. Time seems to stand still on parts of Calle Ocho as old time craftsmanship and people lead the way forward.
Pedro Bello outside his Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company
The food of Little Havana is, as you would expect, Latin with that wonderful Cuban flair. Taste an authentic Cubano sandwiche at Old Havana Restaurant; savorthe sweet taste of guava perfection at Yisil Bakery; sip on guarapo at Los Pinarenos Fruteria.
At EL Pub, the Beef Picadillo Empanada is crunchy on the outside, with an unusual kick from the filing: olives that deliver piquancy and salt to the filling. The whole wheat pastry brings substance and savory to the pastry. A win/win on both counts.
And don’t overlook Azucar Ice Cream where the sweet mantecado is a must try. The owner, Suzy Battle, has perfected her grandmother’s recipes including one named after her, Abuela Maria.
As well as great food and Little Havana institutions, you will undoubtedly run into roosters. They began showing up on Calle Ocho in 2002 as part of the “Rooster Walk” project by artists in the Little Havana neighborhood.
These feathered fellows show up in all sorts of forms and outfits. Some are bright colored; some are patriotically dressed.
Patriotic rooster on Calle Ocho in Little Havana
Cuba ia a country so close yet so far from the U.S. A mere ninety miles separates the two. From sea, the morning sun rises over this island nation. While the early immigrants have aged and their children have become the force behind the rise of Miami as a rich Latino center, Cuba still beckons.
Little Havana is a story of America starting in the 1960’s. It’s about immigration, assimilation, hope and dreams and the inevitable evolution of events with time. May the people of Cuba see their homeland again, up close rather than from afar.
Sunrise over Cuba from afar, taken several miles out at sea Photo: Pat Wetzel
If you go…
Look up Miami Culinary Tours. They offer a very nice walking tour that combines numerous culinary highlights with a bit of history.
Stay at the Ball and Chain for Happy Hour (Uber is everywhere in Miami! Stay and enjoy this amazing institution and its equally amazing concoctions.)
Walk the streets and enjoy the old world ambiance of Cuban via Little Havana.
Visit the slide show gallery for more pictures and information on visiting Little Havana.
The last time I was in Ft. Lauderdale was in November of 1963. I know that because I remember the news accounts of Kennedy’s assassination. I was six years old.
In addition to the news of the day, I vividly remember three things from that trip.
One, my friend Becky from Texas would be at the hotel with her family and I looked forward to reconnecting with her. We’d met the previous year, same time, same place.
Secondly I recall endless beach; and thirdly, the sound of endless ocean.
The room, which was high above the beach, had a wall of sliding doors that opened to a balcony and looked out over the ocean. Night and day, the sound of the surf played against the sand. By day, there were sand castles to be built. By night the magical florescence of the waves breaking in moonlight danced upon the beach.
That would be my last trip to Florida for many years. Fast forward to 2017, and I’m visiting Ft. Lauderdale again.
My impressions as an adult are different, as is the town. But one thing is consistent through time: the amazing, endless beach. The Sonesta in Ft. Lauderdale stands somewhat alone on a long stretch of beach. It’s across the street from both the Hugh Taylor Birch State Park and the water.
View of Hugh Taylor Birch State Park and Ft. Lauderdale Beach from my room at the Sonesta as an afternoon shower passes
Ft. Lauderdale is rather developed these days which is why this stretch of uninhabited beachfront is so special. Hugh Taylor was a Chicago attorney in 1893. Like many others, he was lured to Florida by the climate and in his case, a chance for privacy. He amassed 3.5 miles of beach front property at a cost of about a dollar per acre, which was later donated to the city as a public park. Thus this amazing expanse of beachside land exists in the middle of downtown Ft. Lauderdale. And the The Sonesta sits at the edge of this expanse, with extensive beachfront between the hotel and any other resort.
Ft. Lauderdale offers so many things. In under two days, here’s what I managed to see and do:
The Ft. Lauderdale Beach
Nesting turtles and sanderlings call this beach home and at dawn the birds are always about, searching for food and dodging the waves. Sanderlings are migrant birds, living and breeding in cold climates such as the arctic, and flying thousands of miles south for the winter.
Sanderlings are abundant on the Ft. Lauderdale beach. And they’re adorable. Just for fun, I put together a slide show of sanderling photos.
In addition to birds, Florida is a Mecca for nesting sea turtles. Sea turtles travel hundreds and even thousands of miles to nest. And the Florida beaches of Brevard, Indian River, St. Lucie, Martin and Palm Beach counties attract over 100,000 turtles each year.
Signs alert people to the nesting sea turtles along the Ft. Lauderdale beach.
As a result, great courtesy is given to the nesting turtles. Lights are dimmed and the beach is kept as dark as possible to encourage nesting.
For humans, Ft. Lauderdale offers numerous amusements, ranging from shopping to restaurants. Sunny.org –The Greater Ft. Lauderdale Convention and Visitors Bureau- is a good place for starting your travel plans to Ft. Lauderdale.
With less than two days to explore, here are some of the highlights I enjoyed:
Water Taxis and Traveling the Canals
Ft. Lauderdale is called the Venice of Florida for good reason. The Intercoastal Waterway provides water based access to homes, businesses and boats. Water taxis stop at regular intervals allowing tourists (and locals!) to navigate the town via the water.
One of the many dockside restaurants easily accessed by water taxi.
Florida is also known as the “Yachting Capital of the World” and a short hop on the water taxi took me by the setup for upcoming Ft. Lauderdale International Boat Show (held this year from Nov 1- Nov 5, 2017). This event is simply amazing and it generates millions of dollars in revenue for the city.
It is said that you need to provide a net worth statement to get on some of the boats. I think I’ll just enjoy from afar!
Yachts line the Intercoastal waterway in preparation for the Ft. Lauderdale boat show.
Everglades
The other waterway worth exploring is the Everglades. It’s about an hour’s drive from Ft. Lauderdale. Commercial tours are readily available from a number of lauch points. But ours was having some mechanical problems. So a good samaratin, David came to the rescue and offered an airboat ride into the waters of the park. Thank you David!
David, a Good Samaritan with an air boat, stepped in and saved the day when the tour boat had problems.
The everglades are breathtaking in their scope. Early Spanish explorers named the area Laguna del Espiritu Santo (Lake of the Holy Spirit). It remained unexplored for decades. In 1773, British surveyor de Brahm who mapped the coast, called the area “River Glades” which in time became Everglades.
Early Florida Map
And the Everglades go on for ever and ever. The water is home to migrating birds, alligators and much more.
Photo by Aldric RIVAT on Unsplash
A visit to the Everglades really needs to be on your Ft. Lauderdale agenda. If you can, arrange it late in October when the migrating birds fill the marsh. For the photo buffs in the audience, this would be an amazing oportunity.
Flamingos
What’s Florida without flamingos? They’re fascinating birds and I was grateful to get a chance to take some pictures!
Flamingo Photo Credit: Pat Wetzel
The color of the birds feathers is actually dependent on their diet. As a result one sees flamingos ranging from pale pink to coral colored. They’re actually born gray. Their diet of blue-green algae contains a natural pink dye called canthaxanthin that changes the color of their plumage.
Shopping and Dining
I found myself needing both a sweater and an unexpected new suitcase. The sweater need was easily filled by the nearby Galleria, just up the street. And I want to send my special thanks to Lee at Freeman’s Luggage who found a wonderful Briggs & Riley suitcase on sale for me. I cannot say enough kind things about this local store and the people who run it. Check them out if you need anything luggage oriented during your St. Lauderdale stay.
Dining wise there is something for everyone. After getting up at sunrise to capture some pictures, breakfast at the Sonesta was welcomed! A combination of buffet and cooked to order dishes were available.
Made to order breakfast at the Ft. Lauderdale Sonesta
At night, various restaurants provided great fish (and other dishes as well!). With an easy emphasis on freshness, a healthy diet on the road in Ft. Lauderdale wasn’t difficult. And there is no shortage of dining options in Ft. Lauderdale!
Port Everglades Cruise Terminal
The airport, Port Everglades and the Sonesta are all within easy reach of each other.
Got a cruise on the mind? Port Everglades Cruise Terminal is the third largest cruise terminal in the world and easily accessible from Fort Lauderdale. The airport is just minutes away, making a fly-and-cruise vacation very doable. I’d suggest coming in a day early. If your flight is delayed, the cruise ship won’t wait for you!
If you go:
The fall into winter is really spectacular. Here’s some weather information on Ft. Lauderdale:
Flights can also be very reasonable. I was able to get a last minute flight out of the area for about $100. This rate will naturally vary depending upon a number of variables, including the type of ticket and time of year. But with easy, affordable flights and great weather, you might want to think Ft. Lauderdale when you need a bit of winter sun!
All my thanks to the Ft. Lauderdale Sonesta who put us up for two nights. It’s a wonderful place, with unbelievable floor to ceiling views of endless beach. Also thank you to Hello Sunny!–the Greater Ft. Lauderdale Convention and Visitors Bureau–for their warm welcome and assistance. Be sure to put them on your list of resources for planning your Ft. Lauderdale getaway!
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
St. Augustine is my kind of town, at least in October, with tourist traffic relatively light and the weather relatively cool.
It’s a combination of money, elegance and grace. Set, of course, against a history of Spanish conquest. With beautiful beaches and fresh ocean air.
St. Augustine History
St Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European established settlement in the U.S. That’s not to say it hasn’t been the subject of attacks, sieges, been burned to the ground, traded between the British and the Spanish, and then the Americans. Throw in a Civil War and an oil tycoon who decided to create a winter haven for the wealthy, and you have a town with a story.
St. Augustine was founded in 1565 by Pedro Menendez de Aviles who was named Florida’s first governor. The site would remain the capital of Spanish Florida for 200 years, despite being burned to the ground by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. In 1819 the Adams -Treaty Spain ceded the territory to the US.
This Florida city was a strategic part of navigating the New World and of protecting Spanish galleons in their gold trading routes between the New World and Old. As English settled territories further north, conflict was inevitable.
St. Augustine 1589
The history of St. Augustine is a fascinating read. The current masonry Fort Castillo de San Marcos was completed in 1695, partly as a result of the English presence in the area which threatened Spanish interests. The fort withstood the English onslaught of 1702, but the town was burned to the ground by the British. In 1740 the British had another failed attempt to take the port.
Artillery lined up at the Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine
In 1763 the Treaty of Paris ceded Florida To Great Britain in time for it to become a loyalist haven during the Revolutionary war. The second Treaty of Paris ceded Florida back to Spain. This possession would last from 1784-1821 when Florida became part of the US.
Got all that? Add in some Indian wars, the Civil War and whatnot, and this little town has had a stormy history of warfare and upheaval that goes back centuries.
Portrait of Henry Flager Source: Wikipedia
But all that would change when Henry Flagler entered the picture. Henry, co-founder of Standard Oil visited the area in 1883. He combined several small railways into the Florida East Coast Railway, built a bridge, and Florida was open for development.
Flagler’s vision was to create a wealthy enclave for winter escape. To that end he built two hotels, the Alcazar and the Ponce de Leon. For several years, Flagler put St. Augustine on the society map, but as the rail system extended south, so did the preferences of his clientele who headed towards warmer winter weather.
Flagler’s influence is felt everywhere in this coastal town. The town benefited enormously from his vision. Flagler College occupies the original Ponce de Leon Hotel and the Alcazar continues on.
The town itself is compact and very walkable. There is an Old Town Trolley that offers a good way to get the lay of the land. Should you do this, be sure to cruise by the St. Augustine Distillery at lunchtime. The restaurant is excellent and downstairs is a tour of the premises.
A helpful hint: the trolley usually stops off the main road. The stops are poorly marked on the map and often hard to find. Think off road when looking for the hop on, hop off stops.
11 Things To Do in St. Augustine:
Castillo de San Marcos
Castillo de San Marcos overlooking the harbor at St. Augustine
This fort was originally built in the 1600’s by the Spanish, both to protect the outbound Spanish galleons laden with gold and as a land based strong point to thwart English movement to the south. Fort hours are listed here.
While you are at the fort. take the time to go across the street to the visitors center. There is an excellent exhibit of St. Augustine history and a plaque marking the start of the Spanish trek westward to the other forts and missions in the southwest.
St. Augustine was the most eastward of the Spanish missions built to solidify Spanish control of territory and people, and to provide protection for the galleons carrying gold and silver back to Europe.
The Bridge of Lions
Looking westward across The Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine
The Carrera marble lions guard the bridge entrance.
The Bridge is named for the pair of marble Medici lions that guard the St. Augustine side of he bridge. These lions are copies of the ones in the Loggia Dei Lanzi in Florence.
The original bridge over the Intercoastal Waterway and Matanzas Bay to Anastasia Island was a simple wooden structure. It would be replaced by the efforts of Henry Rodenbaugh, an executive working for Henry Flagler’s Florida East coast Railway. The construction of the new bridge coincided with the 1920’s Florida land boom and cost ten times as much as other nearby bridges. The bridge would again be renovated starting in 2006 and reopening in 2010.
St. Augustine Distillery Co.
St. Augustine Distillery warehouse operations in the old Ice House
This company is housed in the historic 1907 FP&L Ice Plant which made commercial block ice over 100 years ago. The building is on the National Historic Register and part of Lincolnville.
Tours are free and start every half hour. Like distilleries in other areas, this is part of a national movement of distilling local premium small batch spirits. The upstairs restaurant not only showcases the distilled liquors from below, but has great ambiance and food.
Lincolnville
This section of St. Augustine, FL originally provided a neighborhood for African American workers. Today it’s a beautiful shaded neighborhood with wonderful architecture, within an easy walk of downtown St. Augustine.
Originally known as Little Africa, Lincolnville was established after the American Civil War in 1866. The area evolved as St. Augustine did. During Henry Flagler’s reign, the eastern boundary of Lincolnville was expanded to the Ponce de Leon Barracks at 172-180 Cordova Street, a significant historic building. During the late 19th and 20th centuries, workers from Flagler’s hotels lived here.
Today Lincolnville retains some of its original architecture. Some is run down; some is renovated. One local complained that it may be on the verge of being gentrified. I have no comment on that trend, but this area of town is a place one could live, in easy walking distance of all the charms of St. Augustine.
St. Augustine Lighthouse
The restored lighthouse on Anastasia Island.
The St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 on the site of an earlier tower built by the Spanish in the 16th century, located at the north end of Anastasia Island. The lighthouse owes its restoration to the Junior Service League of St. Augustine (JSL), which along with the Coast Guard were instrumental in gaining control of the restoration project. A 99 year lease was signed with the county for the keeper’s house and surrounding grounds, and a massive renovation project were started. Inclusion on the National Register is thanks in part to the considerable efforts of local preservationist and author Karen Harvey.
The Hotel Ponce de Leon (Flagler College)
Flagler College in St. Augustine is another legacy of Henry Flagler
This incredible baroque/moorish building was originally built by Henry Flagler as a resort –The Hotel Ponce de Leon–for his well to do clientele. It is said that a season’s stay cost the modern day equivalent of $100,000. Today it’s a four year liberal arts college offering 29 majors and a student led tour that’s rather interesting. It’s worth an hour of your time to get some insight into Henry Flagler’s flagship property.
The ceiling in the entry rotunda at Flagler College, originally built as the Hotel Ponce de Leon by Henry Flagler
The interior includes elaborate decor that welcome students and visitors alike. The dining room has over 70 Tiffany windows and there is actually a separate ladies waiting room just down the hallway. It is said that the women waited here while bills were settled, with the intent of keeping them ignorant of the financial side of things. Hmmmm….
Wander the Town
St. Augustine, FL is full of beautiful cobblestone streets perfect for wandering and exploring.
This is a small town and oh so walkable! Wander the streets. Try the restaurants. Rent a bicycle. Enjoy the off season ambiance of this beautiful and historic Florida town!
Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
The restored interior of this church is breathtaking. Pictures don’t do it justice, but a visit would!
This is an 18th century cathedral that has been restored in beautiful detail. It was originally established in 1565 and re-built in the 18th century. It is the oldest church in Florida, with a combination of Spanish and neo-classical architecture.
Take the time to stop in. It’s an integral part of St. Augustine history. The church is located at Cathedral Street between Charlotte and St. George Streets. It was constructed over five years (1793–1797), and was designated a U.S.National Historic Landmarkon April 15, 1970.
St. Augustine Cemeteries
Religious tensions showed in many ways. Here a Huguenot cemetery speaks to past social differences and tensions.
Visiting a cemetery may sound boring or even odd, but actually burial grounds offer a unique look at the people and culture of an area, at a point in time. In St. Augustine, for example, the Huegenots and the Catholics have separate burial areas, pointing to the role of religion in the social strata and evolution of this early city.
Dining and Snacking in St. Augustine
So many restaurants from which to choose! Mayan, New Orleanian and simple costal food mingle together to create a very nice dining experience for nearly everyone.
I’m not going to single out any one restaurant, but there is one foodie place that you must stop.
Ready?
Don’t laugh too hard!
Ms.-I-don’t-eat-sugar-on-my-anticancer-diet (yours truly) highly recommends (drum roll please!): The Hyppo for over 450 amazing popsicle flavors like Bourbon Peach, Sangria Plum and more! Sweetening is via fresh cane juice (i.e., sugar! Which is decidedly NOT on an anti-cancer diet!)
Stop in and treat yourself. The amazing flavors are available for shipping as well.
Lodging
Nine houses in this enclave create a luxury setting, complete with gardens, a pool and a restored garage that has become an evening cocktail hangout.
Perhaps one way to convey the utter charm of this coastal enclave is to share the place I stayed, The Collector. On the one hand I want to rave about this amazing find. On the other hand, I’m afraid it will become so popular that I’ll never get in again!
The recently renovated Collector is just that: the legacy of Mr. Kenneth Dow’s collections. It started with his collections of mostly European art and then Mr. Dow moved on to collecting houses. Each house in the enclave has its own story and history that is interwoven with that of the town. The entire property has been fully restored and is open for business as a luxury enclave. And it is simply fantastic.
One of the many art pieces that are on the grounds of The Collector.
This unique inn is a collection of nine historic houses spanning from 1790-1910. A tour is available most mornings, and it’s worth doing, both to see all the houses and understand a bit of the story behind each. Given the age of many of the houses, The Collector is a microcosm of the history of St. Augustine itself, told through the stories of the people and situations that evolved around each house.
The houses on this property include:
Daily tours of The Collector are available. Take one! The history behind this enclave is astonishing.
Star General Store 1899-1904
Canova/De Medici House 1840-1898
Caprenter’s House 1901
Dow House 1839
Prince Murat House 1790 (This house tracks back to Napoleon’s nephew!)
William Dean Howells House 1907
Rose House 1909
Spear House 1899-1903
Worcester House 1906
Each house has been lovingly restored and furnished with art and furniture from Mr. Dow’s collections. The property is stunning and includes The Well House, a former garage, now an evening watering hole for property’s guests. Outside are fire pits with Adirondack chairs where one can meet and share a few stories with fellow travelers.
This restored garage doubles as a bar on the property. Evenings, with the fire pits lit, guests can stop in for a glass of wine or a cocktail, before or after dinner.
This stay in St. Augstine was far too brief. I had the feeling that this was a place I could settle into for a bit and just enjoy the people, the town and the weather before the onslaught of the snowbirds. But the itinerary had several fixed dates, so onwards, and south it was.
Central America is about to become part of CancerRoadTrip! My wanderlust took me from Florida to a cruise through Key West, Costa Rica, Honduras, Panama, Mexico and Columbia. And each locale has a story to be told.
The posts will start appearing shortly. But simultaneously, I’ll be writing from New Mexico where I’m staying through the end of January. I’ve visited “The Enchanted Land” numerous times before and it never disappoints. This trip has started no differently.
Serendipity, as usual, led me to an unexpected adventure. It started with leaving westbound Route 40, where I turned north. Not far down the road, the sun appeared. The fields glowed gold, the mountains purple, speckled with the green of pinion trees. There is something special about the light and feel of New Mexico and I’m looking forward to some time here.
I’ve spent time in New Mexico in the past, including during the year I traveled with Whiskey Oscar. Those stories will no doubt be woven into the current tales because it seems that in life, life tends to circle about, albeit in new ways.
This trip I stopped at a Visitor’s Information Center. I had several days on my hands until my AirBnB in Santa Fe would be available. Where would I go?
“Have you ever been to Las Vegas?” the woman behind the desk asked.
“Nevada?”
“New Mexico.”
“No.”
So it was I set my course for Las Vegas, NM where I stayed at the Plaza Hotel, which is complete with two resident ghosts. Las Vegas is a small town, and an enchanting one. Stay tuned for tales about people and community; about renovation and history.
You’ll also start seeing a Gallery section on the site menu shortly. These photo galleries provide a way for me to share more of the pictures from my travels.
So, dear reader, you’ll need a bit of mental dexterity to jump from Florida to Central America to northern New Mexico. Or perhaps not! Just enjoy the journey. I plan to!
And ask yourself: What’s on your bucket list?
Carpe diem!
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
I love a road trip. Having what you need at hand, with impossible possibilities ahead. It’s my kind of adventure.
For the next month, I’ll be traveling. The trip starts in Houston where I meet up with a friend. The itinerary for the first two weeks is Houston to New Orleans; St. Augustine; Ft. Lauderdale; and Miami. After that, stay tuned!
The first half of this road trip is from Houston to Miami
I’ll be posting here (in a delayed fashion). To keep up to date, please follow me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram where I’ll be posting daily pictures and videos. You can also follow many of the posts at Anti-CancerClub on Facebook.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Have a good laugh, but now follow me for an updated Irish food experience that leaves this antiquated perspective far, far behind.
Ireland is in the midst of a food revolution. It’s roots are deep in history and in local culture, led by pioneering people creating, crafting and growing luscious food products. From Dublin to the countryside, Ireland is reinventing its culinary future, one farm and one food at a time.
The food aspect of travel is (obviously) always on my agenda. And I was fortunate enough to meet some of the people making it happen in Ireland, on the Beara Peninsula.
This trip is a feast for your eyes, your stomach and your soul. Don’t neglect any of them. Let’s start with some pictures from the drive over Healy Pass between Killarney and Castletownbere .
Looking back down the roadway towards Killarney from Healy Passis a spectacular view of green lands, blue seas and towering mountains.You’ll note the road is not very wide.
The winding road from Killarney to the Beara Peninsula
View of Castletownbere, the second largest fishing port in Ireland.
The N 71 from Killarney is a beautiful drive that becomes more rural with each passing kilometer. Small winding roads and green hedges punctuated by occasional sweeping vistas mark the drive to my first stop at Kenmare, about 32 kilometers from Killarney. Our trip, part of the TBEX conference, was arranged by Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours. Kay Woods was our knowledgeable director.
A steeple in Kenmare.
Kenmare is a lovely town not far from Killarney. We stopped briefly and while others wandered the town, I found myself drawn to a small booth where Francis Brennan, a local photographer by way of Dublin was displaying his wares. Chatting led to questions about why was I in Ireland. I responded with the abbreviated story of CancerRoadTrip–of how cancer led to betrayal which led to CancerRoadTrip. And in Ireland, as elsewhere, I found a resounding response to the idea of the overall CancerRoadTrip project.
As the topic of cancer is broached, there is almost always a slight pause in the conversation, an awkwardness before the stories start to pour out. Everyone has a cancer story: a friend, a family member, someone in their circle. Everyone feels the emotion, helplessness and void generated by this disease. The universal, heart felt response to the impact of cancer on all of our lives moves with CancerRoadTrip as I travel. Sometimes I think I should simply write all these stories, rather than the travelogue. What’s your cancer story?
But on with the adventure. Because a foodie adventure is what life is all about!
Francis Brennan, a local photographer specializing in black and white photos of the local area.
Kenmare lies on two noted Irish tourist routes, the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. Kenmare is an anglicized form of CeannMara, meaning “head of the sea”, referring to the head of Kenmare Bay. It’s a perfect jumping off point for more local exploration and we are accompanied by Andrew Heath of Manning’s Emporium .
Manning’s Emporium traces its roots back to a family farm back in the 1940’s. In the 1970’s, Val Manning started the shop to support local producers. It’s grown and is now under that ownership of his niece Laura and her husband Andrew Heath. It’s “a bustling food store, cafe and tapas bar specialising in local and artisan produce” that has won numerous awards including ‘The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland’ Guide by John and Sally McKenna, ‘Top Choice’ Cafe in the Lonely Planet Guide Bantry Section, and was named as the 2017 winner of the Restaurant Association Awards for ‘Best Casual Dining in Cork’. Andrew also offers customized food tours. He is a walking encyclopedia of Irish food sources and we were lucky enough to have him join us for most of the trip.
After our brief stop in Kenmare, we headed to Castletownbere, a coastal fishing village which just happens to be home to the All Irish Chowder Champion.
The bus we are traveling is a small one. It is a small group. And the roads are winding and narrow. Going over Healy Pass there is just room for one vehicle. Meeting another head on at speed would definitely be problematic.
Entering Castletownbere, the sea becomes an integral part of the scenery. The town is quiet and even bit sleepy. The sun plays hide and seek with a low cloud base, causing the water to sparkle briefly here and there before it disappears.
The temperate climate allows seemingly exotic trees like palm trees to thrive along the Irish coast.
The town is named after the MacCarty Castle which no longer stands. It’s also called Castletown berehaven. Like other rural parts of Ireland, the population is small. Declining population in a rural setting is a theme that comes up repeatedly during the day.
In Castletownbere we visit with Mark Johnson at The Beara Coast Hotel for a lesson in making his specialty, THE Irish award winning chowder. Mark talks about the process of making the chowder as well as the importance of having access to the finest, freshest ingredients. And Irish cream. Lots of Irish cream!
(You may want to turn up the volume on your computer for this video.)
From the carefully simmered white fish stock to the freshly caught fish selections, to the local Irish cream, the freshness of the ingredients comes through. This chowder is a total winner.
Accompanying the chowder was a seaweed scone that was nothing short of remarkable. The slightly salty taste of the seaweed flecks embedded in the rich pastry dough, slathered with Irish butter, paired with seafood chowder, totally rocks.
Seaweed is becoming a “thing” in Ireland, led by John Fitzgerald at Atlantic Irish Seaweed located in Derrynane on the Ring of Kerry. The culinary use of seaweed dates back to 6th century monks and Ireland, by virtue of its extensive Atlantic coast, is home to over 625 varieties. John is part scientist and educator and he offers seaside discovery tours that take you foraging through the rocky coast in quest of the perfect seaweed.
The next stop is Beara Distillery which had just opened Saturday September 20th 2017. Beara Distillery uses a unusual ingredient–seawater– in their recipe for this lovely, light, fragrant botanical gin.
This artisanal gin uses a two step production process to infuse local botanicals into the base, resulting in a light, botanical flavor.
From their website:
“The Beara Peninsula’s Wild Atlantic Shore is host to an abundance of unusual botanicals and that was how the idea of Beara Ocean Gin was born.
The Atlantic Ocean Botanicals we use in our Gin include Salt water and Sugar Kelp that balance with the freshness of Juniper and Zesty Citrus Aromas. While Cardamom, Angelica and Orris root add complexity.
The result is a unique blend of native sea Flora with traditional botanicals for an altogether enjoyable and easy drinking Gin.”
Easy drinking indeed! They make a base gin with juniper and traditional flavorings. Then individual distillates (fuchsia, sugar kelp and the zest) are added. Purified sea water brings the concentration to a legal threshold and voila! A magical gin.
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Award Winning Milleen’s Cheese
Millen’s award winning cheese
Up next is a very special visit to a very special farm that produces a very special cheese (I presume that you are getting the drift that this is a real find): Milleen’s Cheese.
Norman Steele talking about the history of Milleen’s
Milleen’s is a family farm started by Norman and Veronica Steele. The cottage includes a sitting room, where we had a buffet lunch. The sitting room is accessed by an outdoor walkway from the main cottage. It’s an organic family farm focused on producing cheeses of exceptional quality. They were “discovered” by Declan Ryan, a one Michelin star Irish chef of some renown from Cork.
The decision to make cheese came about almost by accident. With a growing family, a cow was added. But it was too much milk for a small family, no matter how much yogurt one made. So began the cheese experiment, which led to the cow herd, which led to the 1997 award of Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards.
Sadly, Norman’s beloved wife Veronica died fairly recently, but his son is stepping up into the family business. And they just hired a new cheesecake apprentice. It’s a job I’d be tempted to take on!
Norman is a delightful man who enjoys telling his story. Here’s Norman telling a bit of the history of his farm and subsequent fame:
A significant part of the farm’s story is based on the intense connection between the Milleen’s and their land. The farm is organic and the purity of the environment is a key piece to the quality of the cheese. Norman’s son, Quinlan, is a vocal advocate for the organic life. Much of his argument, for me, is deeply familiar. Knowing what goes into your food–how and where it is produced; the chemicals, if any, used in production; and the impact of time to market are very real and very important factors. Next time you reach for some food, stop and wonder: Where is it from and how did it get to you? What are you really eating? Think on it a bit.
Here are a few pictures from the farm:
The view from Milleen’s Cheese
An old stone barn wall alongside original farmhouse.
Norman’s son Quinlan is slowly taking over the cheese operations at Milleen’s.
Cheeses aging in the old stone house at Milleen’s.
Kush Shellfish, Kenmare
100% organic mussels from Kush Shellfish
Kush Shellfish is Ireland’s first organic rope mussels producer, with operations in Kenmare Bay in a Special Area of Conservation (designated under the European Union Habitats Directive) off the south west coast of Ireland. They export to many countries, including the U.S. under the name of Saint Patrick Shellfish. In addition to the shellfish, their exports include their Mussel Soup which is a rich, thick vegetable based soup, hearty enough for an Irish winter’s day. We were also lucky enough to have a bowl of simple steamed mussels that was absolutely outstanding. Fresh from the sea, tender, and perfectly cooked.
The mussels are raised using a rope or bouchot method, which is a French method of cultivating mussels in tidal zones. Pilings, known as bouchots in French, are planted at sea, with a spiraling rope wound about them. Mesh netting may be added to prevent the mussels from falling off. They may be harvested by hand or by machine.
Once again, the emphasis is on working with the environment. Mussels feed on phytoplankton and microscopic marine algae which are in natural abundance in the tidal zone, The purity of the environment, in turn, produces a remarkable product.Do make it a point to enjoy some of these mussels should you find yourself in the Kenmare area.
Whether it’s goat cheese in the Pacific Northwest or mussels in Ireland, the common and consistent denominator in my foodie forays is the freshness of the environment in which the food is raised and the consummate care of the artisans that raise it. From farm to table may on the verge of becoming a cliche, but from Beara to table is a total and remarkable delight. Be sure to put Beara peninsula on your culinary map and contact either Andrew Heath or Kay Woods at Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours for a more personalized and knowledgeable visit.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
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CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
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So many restaurants from which to choose! Mayan, New Orleanian and simple costal food mingle together to create a very nice dining experience for nearly everyone.
I’m not going to single out any one restaurant, but there is one foodie place that you must stop.
