While a trip to Tanzania conjures up images of the Serengeti, some practical tasks like visas and vaccinations are needed to take on the adventure. This is an overview of my experience in getting ready for an upcoming photo safari trip.
The trip is with Nikon Ambassador Kristi Odom. Her photographs have a depth of emotion and character seldom found. I am incredibly lucky to be spending 9 days traveling and studying with her. In addition, my learning will continue throughout the year via Skype sessions. The opportunity to learn to see and to photograph with someone of this calibre is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Count me in!
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Beryl Markham’s stories of Africa have captivated me for years. And with a photo safari planned for the end of September into October, the Dark Continent beckons.
This is a quote from West WithThe Night that has stuck with me for several decades now:
“Africa is mystic; it is wild; it is a sweltering inferno; it is a photographer’s paradise, a hunter’s Valhalla, an escapist’s Utopia. It is what you will, and it withstands all interpretations. It is the last vestige of a dead world or the cradle of a shiny new one. To a lot of people, as to myself, it is just ‘home’.”
– Beryl Markham
Africa is mystic. Those words still hold true.
But before I can set foot in this mystic land, certain modern day tasks need attention first.
Herding goats is akin to running down all the tasks needed for a visit to Tanzania, Africa
Visas and Vaccinations for Tanzania
Visas and vaccinations are a fairly common part of travel. For Tanzania, a host of inoculations are suggested. My forays into figuring out the requirements are chronicled in this post. While my trip is to Tanzania, the methodology I will be giving you can be used for any country.
Visas for Tanzania
If you google Tanzania visa you’ll get a host of official looking websites. They all want to sell you their services to get you a visa. A visa for a US citizen costs $100. Most services charge $179 to submit the application.
Instead, go directly to the country’s embassy site and order your own e-visa. You’ll need an image of your current passport, a passport quality head shot, copies of your travel arrangements, and the ability to reduce the size of some of the documents they request in order to meet their limitations on file sizes for uploading. (For Mac, simply open your file in preview; go to Tools>Adjust Size and resize the file.) One item of note: if it says to upload a jpeg file, be sure it actually is a jpeg (not a jpg file).
The Tanzania embassy site provides step by step instructions and is actually simpler to use than the numerous visa-for-hire sites that charge an additional fee. My visa was approved within a week and emailed to me.
The official Tanzania site is comprehensive. They cover everything from travel insurance for extreme sports to plastics restrictions and required vaccinations. Go directly to https://tanzaniaembassy-us.org for current information on your travel questions.
Tanzania travel questions? Contact the embassy directly.
Vaccinations for Tanzania
The other site to check out is the CDC.gov. Between this and the Tanzania site, you’ll have the information you need.
For my vaccinations, I used Passport Health, a concierge service that caters to medical travel needs anywhere in the world. I honestly did not check their prices versus visiting my own doctor. He is usually backlogged, and I was concerned that he probably didn’t keep things like typhoid vaccines on hand.
Instead, using Passport Health, I was able to get an appointment quickly. This matters. Depending on the vaccinations you require, you may need to have 2 or even three inoculations. Plan ahead more than a month before your departure to be sure you can get everything done.
I also appreciated the fact that the nurse was knowledgeable about the various vaccines needed for my trip. Traveling solo, I appreciate an extra set of eyes to be sure I’m not missing anything.
Finding the path, via numerous forms of transport.
Additional Medications for a Tanzania Safari
Malaria pills are essential (and they are not cheap!). Passport Health was able to phone a prescription directly to a local pharmacy for me. I also got a prescription for Ciprofloxacin (diarrhea).
My medical packing list includes:
Bug repellent with DEET (30% concentration). While I dread the idea of these chemicals on my skin, the risk of an infectious bite of some sort is far worse. DEET it is. I’m also going to be experimenting with some natural oils such as lavender, tea tree oil and spearmint to ward off mosquitoes.
Sunblock/Moisturizer + Sunblock: Check the ewg.org website for the healthiest recommendations for sun related products.
Benadryl /Tea Tree Oil for bug bites: I do not react well to bites and the Benadryl Gel is a must have. Tea tree oil is also going with me. It is a combination insect repellent; it has antiseptic qualities; and wound healing attributes.
You may also want to pack a general first aid kit, or at least the key elements of one.
Be prepared for whatever adventure awaits. Be sure to bring some first aid and get travel insurance.
Travel Insurance
Don’t leave home without it for a major trip.
But do read the fine print.
The basic Delta travel insurance provides protection against the cost of your trip and gives you the ability to make changes in your travel plans. It also offers fairly basic compensation for late flights and lost luggage. It’s not comprehensive, but it is adequate. Allianz, a well regarded travel insurance company, provides the Delta service.
In addition to the basic insurance offered by the airline, any number of companies offer varying levels of comprehensive travel insurance for about 10% of the cost of the trip. For a trip to Africa, you’re looking at some pretty hefty premiums. Think hard about what you really need in an emergency. I’m personally usually willing to self insure against little things. In my mind, insurance sales (somewhat like vaccination sales) are partially based on fear. Just be aware of that as you make the decisions that are right for you and your trip.
The Tanzania Embassy offers a summary of recommended travel insurance policies via Reviews.com. You can also do your own homework. I for one simply want to cover this base in the unlikely event of something catastrophic happening. Since I’m not doing any extreme sports these days, my needs are simple. And I am an optimist. I generally regard any bumps in the road as a new adventure.
And I’m ready for Africa!
General Reading on Africa
The romance of the African continent has found its way into literature for decades. Africa spells adventure and adventure (whenever possible) should include some aviation. Some of my African favorites:
Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen
“I once had a farm in Africa.” With that simple statement an adventure unfolds. Either in book or movie form, this is a breathtaking story of the continent.
While the movie scene below is in Kenya, it’s one of my favorite scenes from the entire movie:
West With The Night by Beryl Markham
One of my favorite books of all time. Buy it; read it; you’ll understand why!
Straight On Til Morning
This biography of Beryl Markham is just as good as her own book. If a bit of African adventure Bristish colonial style spins your wheels, this is a great read.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Stories of miraculous healing are associated with the Spanish colonial church El Santuario de Chimayo, located in the foothills 28 miles north of Santa Fe.
And it’s all in the dirt.
Or so legend goes.
Actually there are numerous variations of legends associated with this National Historic Landmark. All point to the elusive, miraculous properties of the local soil. Pilgrims take away 25-30 tons each year, to rub on their bodies and even injest in a quest for healing. Each year over 300,000 people will make a pilgrimage to this small adobe church.
But my travels this day were not in search of a miracle, but in search of photographs.
Scenes from Chimayo and environs
I’ve been in and out of Chimayo since I first house sat in Truchas in the mid 1990’s for Alvaro Cardona Hines and his wife Barbara McCauley. But today’s quest was strictly photographic. My previous forays had resulted in a photos, but I wasn’t satisfied with them. Time for some instruction.
David Hoptman who runs Santa Fe Photo Creative Workshops led this foray into Chimayo. David is an artist. Over the last 30 years he has worked with publications such as Architectural Digest and created thousands of pieces of photographic, print, bronze and visual art. This day, David was my guide to help me expand my photographic perspectives.
As an artist, he talked in detail about shape and composition in a way that I only intuited. We trampsed through the high desert, through town and along the roadside, in a quest to learn and to see with an artist’s eye. And there is more to Chimayo than initially meets the eye.
El Santuario de Chimayo
The main entrance to El Santuario de Chimayo
El Santuario de Chimayo is the heart and soul of the village, the epicenter of the annual pilgrimage. The initial construction of the church dates back to 1813. But dating back to the 12th century, the Pueblo people inhabited the area.
The village has carried a healing mystique for hundreds of years. The Tewa Indians believed that land was shared with spirits and their healing powers were revealed via nearby hot springs, which later dried up. They called the area “Tsi-Mayoh,” after one of the nearby hills.
The Spanish also became part of the healing legacy of Chimayo. After the Pueblo revolt of 1680, the Spanish returned under Diego de Vargas. It is here that the various legends surrounding this pilgrimage site take root. One has Don Bernardo Abeyta seeing a beam of light coming out of the nearby hills. Following the light, he dug in the ground, unearthing a crucifix.
He gave the crucifix to the priest who in turn brought it back to his church in Santa Cruz. But the following morning, the crucifix had mysteriously disappeared and reappeared in Chimayo. This happened again. And again.
And so the legend of El Sanctuario de Chimayo took root.
The church is made of adobe and wood, with two bell towers, each topped off with a metal cross, criss-crossed with tiny white lights. A walled garden provides a place to linger.
Adobe and wood are used for the belfries and main body of the church
Inside is a mix of Spanish and Indian folk art decor. One wall is covered in images of gratitude for healing: discarded canes, wheel chairs and braces point to the site’s deep and rich healing legacy.
The church was purchased by the Spanish Colonial Arts Society in Santa Fe (you can visit this museum on Museum Hill) in 1929. The Society then donated the property to the Archdiocese of Santa Fe.
Traditional Chimayo Weavings
There is more to the legacy of this town than the healing history of El Santuario de Chimayo.
In addition to the religious significance of the village, Chimayo is also known for its tradition of weavings. One family run business, Ortega Weavings, sits on a corner at the edge of town. Here nine generations of weavers provide customized rugs, blankets and clothing.
Rugs and clothing are still woven on traditional looms in Chimayo.
Ortega’s dates back to the early 1700’s when Chimayo was part of New Spain. It started as a means of survival: people needed clothes, blankets and even mattresses. Over time with the introduction of the railroad in the mid 1800’s, trade emerged as the isolated Spanish and Native American cultures started to interact with the Americans.
Other local families and artisans also offer a rich tradition of weaving: Trujillo’s just around the corner has beautiful hand loomed articles and an equally rich history in the woven arts. And up the road towards Truchas, Centinella Traditional Arts offers an array of clothing, rugs and other woven items from local artisans. I found a stunning orange woven, over-the-head-shawl (for lack of a better description) at this shop, in a back room among the looms and yarn.
Each shop is special and they’re all worth a visit, for the history and the creativity of woven art.
A loom at Centinella Traditonal Arts
Chimayo Chile
A story about New Mexico wouldn’t be a story without a tale of chile.
A bit of everything and something for everyone lurks in Medina’s Gallery and Cafe in Chimayo
Chimayo, naturally, has it’s own chile cultivar. The Chimayo Heirloom Chile has been passed down through the generations of farmers in the area. Because the pods are small, they are more difficult to process and thus more expensive. The unique, rich and earthy flavor of this Chile is highly prized and available in numerous places including the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market.
El Potrero Trading Post, located near the church, offers a variety of items, ranging from artwork to religious artifacts. On the chile front, the store offers Chimayo Heirloom, Sandia, Big Jim and Lumbre varieties. Chile may be processed in the oven or sun-dried. The sun dried chile is the most prized. This time intensive process produces a chile orange in tone, and rich in flavor. But try them all…you won’t be disappointed!
Rancho De Chimayo
Every good adventure requires sustenance, and Rancho De Chimayo just outside of the village is the perfect place to stop for lunch.
Home made tamales with red and green Chile at Rancho De Chimayo
Rancho de Chimayo was awarded the James Beard Foundation America’s Classics Award in 2016 for their attention to the history and rich culture of New Mexican food. The food is local, simple and delicious. The story behind the restaurant is one of family heritage, hard work and perseverance. Should you find yourself in Chimayo, this is well worth a culinary visit.
The traditions of Rancho De Chimayo have been captured in a book by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison:
From Amazon:
Situated just 30 miles north of Santa Fe off the High Road to Taos, the highly acclaimed Rancho de Chimayo Restaurant has been serving traditional New Mexican cuisine in a beautiful setting for half a century. The atmosphere at this traditional Spanish hacienda, surrounded by mountains, is rivaled only by the fine, native cooking served in the grand early tradition by generations of the Jaramillo family. In 1991 the restaurant published a modest paperback cookbook for their silver anniversary. Twenty-five years and 50,000 copies later comes this beautiful new edition, just in time for the 50th anniversary celebrations. All recipes are completely revised and updated, with more than twenty delectable new dishes added. As an extra bonus, the book also features charming archival images as well as stunning full-color food and location photography, making this a beautiful keepsake of a special place as well as a mealtime companion to turn to again and again.
Getting There
Take the time to take a tour of the back roads of northern New Mexico. Starting at Santa Fe, head up to Chimayo and stop for lunch. From there continue up to Taos, taking the High Road. Stop, linger and absorb the incredible scenery. En route, Truchas is stunning and filled with small art galleries. And Taos offers an array of artistic, outdoor and historic things to do ranging from hiking to Indian Pueblo dances, depending on the time of the year. And don’t forget Taos ski valley or the hot springs and mineral waters of Ojo Caliente after a long day on the slopes.
Whatever you decide to do, whatever the season, it’s a great road trip, worthy of a bit of adventure and exploration.
The High Road to Taos
“The Road goes ever on and on Down from the door where it began. Now far ahead the Road has gone, And I must follow, if I can, Pursuing it with eager feet, Until it joins some larger way Where many paths and errands meet. And whither then? I cannot say”
― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the Ring
The High Road to Taos, as it passes through Truchas
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
A thousand miles from Ecuador, in the Pacific Ocean, are 19 islands that make up The Galapagos.
The islands were made famous first by Charles Darwin and his Theory of Evolution by Natural Selection (published in 1858). Since then, the Galapagos have beckoned travelers looking to discover this unique and isolated ecosystem.
This post is from my friend Charles Porter. Charles’ cancer journey has been quite the road trip. Diagnosed with Stage 4 Hodgkins lymphoma at age 30, his world was turned upside down. A promising acting career was stalled and instead Charles found himself facing a difficult and risky stem cell transplant.
Which succeeded.
Success with a stem cell transplant
For a while.
The cancer is back, but immunotherapy is currently working.
Cancer teaches us many things. One is to do it now! And so, Charles visited the Galapagos Islands to celebrate his 40th birthday:
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CancerRoadTrip: The Galapagos Islands with Charles F. Porter
#NeverQuit
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Visiting The Galapagos
To commemorate my big 4 0 close friends and family came together from all regions of the United States to meet for an epic adventure in the Galapagos Islands. I personally, along with my mother, brother, niece and her friend Eric left from Los Angeles. Flying through Miami and catching our breath for two nights in Guayaquil, we were able to adjust to time zone changes as well as experience local culture of mainland Ecuador.
Charles and entourage: Ecuador
The adventure was truly a two part celebration. We celebrated my forty years of life but we also took time to celebrate each other and how truly precious each minute of life is. With each excursion, hike or paddle in the ocean we were surrounded by one of a kind wild life amongst exotic back drops of lava rock or bustling tree tops full of birds. With each siting I was reminded how lucky I truly am. Ten years ago I was diagnosed with stage IV Hodgkin’s Lymphoma. I had a stem cell transplant in 2011 and was in remission for two years. Since then I have had three relapses and continue to treat this disease today. My brother and best friend below has endured the highs and lows throughout this fight. We celebrate the journey and all that it brings with it for this is life.
Best Friends, through thick and thin. Galapagos
Pictured below are my mother and the mothers of two of my closest friends. Two of the moms have battled cancer and the third, my mom, has been a care taker. Her father also passed away from cancer. This disease has affected so many of us. In fact statistics say that nearly 40% be affected by the disease. Fortunately advanced research and science has been able to extend lives and information to healthier life choices give all of us a fighting chance.
Cancer will impact nearly 40% of us.
I would recommend this trip to thrill seekers and those who love to just relax in the sun alike. Thankful for each day.
Over the last five years of my life there have been many challenges. One was the fight for my life as my family, friends and I fought off stage 4 Cancer. I am now two years in remission after a stem cell transplant at UCLA. Many things changed in my philosophy of what is important in life. My circle became smaller but ever so stronger as I am able to pour more energy into relationships that mean the most to me. Many of these poems talk about that fight and what those who battled with me mean to me. You can also see a transition of a young boy turn into a grown man as I start to really search for my true meaning on earth. I always felt as though its to leave this place in a better way then when I entered. Even larger goals are in the balance as I continue to thrive as an artist and my voice starts to reach the masses. I love peace and team work and together we can make a difference. I have learned to never quit and aim high. Much love
From Amazon:
In his last book, ‘Get To Know: Unlocking the Essence in You’, Charles gives insight to the man he was before going through his battle with Stage IV Hodgkins Lymphoma and the man he became once on the other side. ‘Choose Your Path’ was written during the last three to four years of being in remission and is literally being published two weeks after Charles received the news that the cancer has returned. Making this title so much more compelling as Charles will once again try to grow from a life threatening challenge. During the years of medically and mentally being cancer free, Charles has climbed mountains, ran with the bulls and gotten engaged. Substantial changes in his mindset, actions and desires have taken place and Charles lays his private thoughts out for the world to see how he ended up on the path that he walks today. A path that no man has walked on before and one that no man will walk again. Charles intentionally looks for the path least taken simply to be able to share an experience and inspire someone to do the same. ‘Choose Your Path’, reminds us that all humans were born with a purpose. That feeling inside that keeps you awake at night should be acknowledge and if reasonable pursued. ‘Choose Your Path’ also reminds us to love ourselves and that trying to be the best that we can be is never a bad mission. This book serves as voice for a generation who realizes that humanity needs a philosophy of love and encouragement in order to sustain and grow. Without it the ideology of every man for himself will spread. History has told that story many times before, try this one. ‘Choose Your Path’ 2015
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Ninety miles of winding two lane coastal highway extends from Carmel to San Simeon, passing through the tiny town of Big Sur. It’s wild; it’s spectacular; and it has its challenges. Narrow lanes, falling rock and soil, and plunging cliffs make for an interesting ride. It’s a drive for second and third gear and your total attention.
CA Route 1 twists and turns through sometimes treacherous passages, amidst relentless seaside beauty.
The twists and turns of Highway1, San Simeon to Big Sur
The northern start of the drive, in Carmel, is highly civilized, with art galleries, restaurants and the famed 17 Mile Drive. But as one heads south, the terrain becomes more rugged and wild.
Rocky, crashing coasts.
Fingers of fog.
Brilliant sun on blue water.
A small A-frame house sits atop a hillside that plunges down to the Pacific alongside Highway 1 in CA
Coastal plants, Big Sur
Should you decide to drive this, check on the road conditions. There is work being done and just last year mud slides closed the highway. Also be sure to fill up your car ahead of time. Gas along the route is $7+ per gallon.
The CA coast, Big Sur
Big Sur has some of the most spectacular coastal views anywhere.
San Simeon
The southern point of the trip is San Simeon, home to Hearst Castle. Built by William Randolph Hurst over a 30 year period, with architect Julia Morgan turned his 250,000 acre ranch into a massive country home with indoor and outdoor pools; tennis courts; and lavish art and furnishings.
Photo Credit: iStock
The indoor pool at Hearst Castle holds 250,000 gallons of water
One of the smaller library rooms at Hearst Castle
Zebras roam the pastures at Hearst Castle in San Simeon
San Simeon beach residents
San Simeon is a small town on the coast at the entry to Hearst Castle. The restaurant here is excellent! Beef from the Hearst Ranch. Fish from the sea. Plus a winery.
While this is a well traveled tourist route, there is a reason to visit. The coast line is beyond spectacular and the touch of history a la William Randolph Hearst makes for a fascinating day’s outing. And then, just south, is the less traveled path through Edna Valley, home to the Pinots and Chardonnays that thrive in this cool coastal climate.
But absolutely no wine on CA Route 1! This route requires your total attention.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
So much is happening with CancerRoadTrip, ranging from donations to new partners! I thought I’d write a brief post so that everyone is in the know!
As you know, we are giving seven people impacted by cancer an amazing luxury healing retreat. And we’re capturing it on film for education and inspiration for all of us.
Why?
Do you know anyone who’s been through cancer who couldn’t use a healing retreat?
You can help spread the word by simply sharing CancerRoadTrip with your social networks. (The buttons are on the left hand side of the page, in orange. Just click and share!)
Everyone knows someone with cancer.
Let’s do something about this!
Tax Deductible Donations
CancerRoadTrip is now able to take tax deductible donations through the fiscal sponsorship of the New Mexico Film Foundation.
For just $1 a month, you can be part of the film! We have created a special section in the film credits for your words to be heard. Leave an inspirational thought for someone fighting cancer; or leave a thought in memory of a loved one.
I hope you’ll consider supporting this project with a monthly donation.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
Thank you for stopping by!
CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.
Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen
Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen
From Amazon:
From Amazon:
