St. Augustine is my kind of town, at least in October, with tourist traffic relatively light and the weather relatively cool.
It’s a combination of money, elegance and grace. Set, of course, against a history of Spanish conquest. With beautiful beaches and fresh ocean air.
St. Augustine History
St Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European established settlement in the U.S. That’s not to say it hasn’t been the subject of attacks, sieges, been burned to the ground, traded between the British and the Spanish, and then the Americans. Throw in a Civil War and an oil tycoon who decided to create a winter haven for the wealthy, and you have a town with a story.
St. Augustine was founded in 1565 by Pedro Menendez de Aviles who was named Florida’s first governor. The site would remain the capital of Spanish Florida for 200 years, despite being burned to the ground by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. In 1819 the Adams -Treaty Spain ceded the territory to the US.
This Florida city was a strategic part of navigating the New World and of protecting Spanish galleons in their gold trading routes between the New World and Old. As English settled territories further north, conflict was inevitable.
St. Augustine 1589
The history of St. Augustine is a fascinating read. The current masonry Fort Castillo de San Marcos was completed in 1695, partly as a result of the English presence in the area which threatened Spanish interests. The fort withstood the English onslaught of 1702, but the town was burned to the ground by the British. In 1740 the British had another failed attempt to take the port.
Artillery lined up at the Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine
In 1763 the Treaty of Paris ceded Florida To Great Britain in time for it to become a loyalist haven during the Revolutionary war. The second Treaty of Paris ceded Florida back to Spain. This possession would last from 1784-1821 when Florida became part of the US.
Got all that? Add in some Indian wars, the Civil War and whatnot, and this little town has had a stormy history of warfare and upheaval that goes back centuries.
Portrait of Henry Flager Source: Wikipedia
But all that would change when Henry Flagler entered the picture. Henry, co-founder of Standard Oil visited the area in 1883. He combined several small railways into the Florida East Coast Railway, built a bridge, and Florida was open for development.
Flagler’s vision was to create a wealthy enclave for winter escape. To that end he built two hotels, the Alcazar and the Ponce de Leon. For several years, Flagler put St. Augustine on the society map, but as the rail system extended south, so did the preferences of his clientele who headed towards warmer winter weather.
Flagler’s influence is felt everywhere in this coastal town. The town benefited enormously from his vision. Flagler College occupies the original Ponce de Leon Hotel and the Alcazar continues on.
The town itself is compact and very walkable. There is an Old Town Trolley that offers a good way to get the lay of the land. Should you do this, be sure to cruise by the St. Augustine Distillery at lunchtime. The restaurant is excellent and downstairs is a tour of the premises.
A helpful hint: the trolley usually stops off the main road. The stops are poorly marked on the map and often hard to find. Think off road when looking for the hop on, hop off stops.
11 Things To Do in St. Augustine:
Castillo de San Marcos
Castillo de San Marcos overlooking the harbor at St. Augustine
This fort was originally built in the 1600’s by the Spanish, both to protect the outbound Spanish galleons laden with gold and as a land based strong point to thwart English movement to the south. Fort hours are listed here.
While you are at the fort. take the time to go across the street to the visitors center. There is an excellent exhibit of St. Augustine history and a plaque marking the start of the Spanish trek westward to the other forts and missions in the southwest.
St. Augustine was the most eastward of the Spanish missions built to solidify Spanish control of territory and people, and to provide protection for the galleons carrying gold and silver back to Europe.
The Bridge of Lions
Looking westward across The Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine
The Carrera marble lions guard the bridge entrance.
The Bridge is named for the pair of marble Medici lions that guard the St. Augustine side of he bridge. These lions are copies of the ones in the Loggia Dei Lanzi in Florence.
The original bridge over the Intercoastal Waterway and Matanzas Bay to Anastasia Island was a simple wooden structure. It would be replaced by the efforts of Henry Rodenbaugh, an executive working for Henry Flagler’s Florida East coast Railway. The construction of the new bridge coincided with the 1920’s Florida land boom and cost ten times as much as other nearby bridges. The bridge would again be renovated starting in 2006 and reopening in 2010.
St. Augustine Distillery Co.
St. Augustine Distillery warehouse operations in the old Ice House
This company is housed in the historic 1907 FP&L Ice Plant which made commercial block ice over 100 years ago. The building is on the National Historic Register and part of Lincolnville.
Tours are free and start every half hour. Like distilleries in other areas, this is part of a national movement of distilling local premium small batch spirits. The upstairs restaurant not only showcases the distilled liquors from below, but has great ambiance and food.
Lincolnville
This section of St. Augustine, FL originally provided a neighborhood for African American workers. Today it’s a beautiful shaded neighborhood with wonderful architecture, within an easy walk of downtown St. Augustine.
Originally known as Little Africa, Lincolnville was established after the American Civil War in 1866. The area evolved as St. Augustine did. During Henry Flagler’s reign, the eastern boundary of Lincolnville was expanded to the Ponce de Leon Barracks at 172-180 Cordova Street, a significant historic building. During the late 19th and 20th centuries, workers from Flagler’s hotels lived here.
Today Lincolnville retains some of its original architecture. Some is run down; some is renovated. One local complained that it may be on the verge of being gentrified. I have no comment on that trend, but this area of town is a place one could live, in easy walking distance of all the charms of St. Augustine.
St. Augustine Lighthouse
The restored lighthouse on Anastasia Island.
The St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 on the site of an earlier tower built by the Spanish in the 16th century, located at the north end of Anastasia Island. The lighthouse owes its restoration to the Junior Service League of St. Augustine (JSL), which along with the Coast Guard were instrumental in gaining control of the restoration project. A 99 year lease was signed with the county for the keeper’s house and surrounding grounds, and a massive renovation project were started. Inclusion on the National Register is thanks in part to the considerable efforts of local preservationist and author Karen Harvey.
The Hotel Ponce de Leon (Flagler College)
Flagler College in St. Augustine is another legacy of Henry Flagler
This incredible baroque/moorish building was originally built by Henry Flagler as a resort –The Hotel Ponce de Leon–for his well to do clientele. It is said that a season’s stay cost the modern day equivalent of $100,000. Today it’s a four year liberal arts college offering 29 majors and a student led tour that’s rather interesting. It’s worth an hour of your time to get some insight into Henry Flagler’s flagship property.
The ceiling in the entry rotunda at Flagler College, originally built as the Hotel Ponce de Leon by Henry Flagler
The interior includes elaborate decor that welcome students and visitors alike. The dining room has over 70 Tiffany windows and there is actually a separate ladies waiting room just down the hallway. It is said that the women waited here while bills were settled, with the intent of keeping them ignorant of the financial side of things. Hmmmm….
Wander the Town
St. Augustine, FL is full of beautiful cobblestone streets perfect for wandering and exploring.
This is a small town and oh so walkable! Wander the streets. Try the restaurants. Rent a bicycle. Enjoy the off season ambiance of this beautiful and historic Florida town!
Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
The restored interior of this church is breathtaking. Pictures don’t do it justice, but a visit would!
This is an 18th century cathedral that has been restored in beautiful detail. It was originally established in 1565 and re-built in the 18th century. It is the oldest church in Florida, with a combination of Spanish and neo-classical architecture.
Take the time to stop in. It’s an integral part of St. Augustine history. The church is located at Cathedral Street between Charlotte and St. George Streets. It was constructed over five years (1793–1797), and was designated a U.S.National Historic Landmarkon April 15, 1970.
St. Augustine Cemeteries
Religious tensions showed in many ways. Here a Huguenot cemetery speaks to past social differences and tensions.
Visiting a cemetery may sound boring or even odd, but actually burial grounds offer a unique look at the people and culture of an area, at a point in time. In St. Augustine, for example, the Huegenots and the Catholics have separate burial areas, pointing to the role of religion in the social strata and evolution of this early city.
Dining and Snacking in St. Augustine
So many restaurants from which to choose! Mayan, New Orleanian and simple costal food mingle together to create a very nice dining experience for nearly everyone.
I’m not going to single out any one restaurant, but there is one foodie place that you must stop.
Ready?
Don’t laugh too hard!
Ms.-I-don’t-eat-sugar-on-my-anticancer-diet (yours truly) highly recommends (drum roll please!): The Hyppo for over 450 amazing popsicle flavors like Bourbon Peach, Sangria Plum and more! Sweetening is via fresh cane juice (i.e., sugar! Which is decidedly NOT on an anti-cancer diet!)
Stop in and treat yourself. The amazing flavors are available for shipping as well.
Lodging
Nine houses in this enclave create a luxury setting, complete with gardens, a pool and a restored garage that has become an evening cocktail hangout.
Perhaps one way to convey the utter charm of this coastal enclave is to share the place I stayed, The Collector. On the one hand I want to rave about this amazing find. On the other hand, I’m afraid it will become so popular that I’ll never get in again!
The recently renovated Collector is just that: the legacy of Mr. Kenneth Dow’s collections. It started with his collections of mostly European art and then Mr. Dow moved on to collecting houses. Each house in the enclave has its own story and history that is interwoven with that of the town. The entire property has been fully restored and is open for business as a luxury enclave. And it is simply fantastic.
One of the many art pieces that are on the grounds of The Collector.
This unique inn is a collection of nine historic houses spanning from 1790-1910. A tour is available most mornings, and it’s worth doing, both to see all the houses and understand a bit of the story behind each. Given the age of many of the houses, The Collector is a microcosm of the history of St. Augustine itself, told through the stories of the people and situations that evolved around each house.
The houses on this property include:
Daily tours of The Collector are available. Take one! The history behind this enclave is astonishing.
Star General Store 1899-1904
Canova/De Medici House 1840-1898
Caprenter’s House 1901
Dow House 1839
Prince Murat House 1790 (This house tracks back to Napoleon’s nephew!)
William Dean Howells House 1907
Rose House 1909
Spear House 1899-1903
Worcester House 1906
Each house has been lovingly restored and furnished with art and furniture from Mr. Dow’s collections. The property is stunning and includes The Well House, a former garage, now an evening watering hole for property’s guests. Outside are fire pits with Adirondack chairs where one can meet and share a few stories with fellow travelers.
This restored garage doubles as a bar on the property. Evenings, with the fire pits lit, guests can stop in for a glass of wine or a cocktail, before or after dinner.
This stay in St. Augstine was far too brief. I had the feeling that this was a place I could settle into for a bit and just enjoy the people, the town and the weather before the onslaught of the snowbirds. But the itinerary had several fixed dates, so onwards, and south it was.
Central America is about to become part of CancerRoadTrip! My wanderlust took me from Florida to a cruise through Key West, Costa Rica, Honduras, Panama, Mexico and Columbia. And each locale has a story to be told.
The posts will start appearing shortly. But simultaneously, I’ll be writing from New Mexico where I’m staying through the end of January. I’ve visited “The Enchanted Land” numerous times before and it never disappoints. This trip has started no differently.
Serendipity, as usual, led me to an unexpected adventure. It started with leaving westbound Route 40, where I turned north. Not far down the road, the sun appeared. The fields glowed gold, the mountains purple, speckled with the green of pinion trees. There is something special about the light and feel of New Mexico and I’m looking forward to some time here.
I’ve spent time in New Mexico in the past, including during the year I traveled with Whiskey Oscar. Those stories will no doubt be woven into the current tales because it seems that in life, life tends to circle about, albeit in new ways.
This trip I stopped at a Visitor’s Information Center. I had several days on my hands until my AirBnB in Santa Fe would be available. Where would I go?
“Have you ever been to Las Vegas?” the woman behind the desk asked.
“Nevada?”
“New Mexico.”
“No.”
So it was I set my course for Las Vegas, NM where I stayed at the Plaza Hotel, which is complete with two resident ghosts. Las Vegas is a small town, and an enchanting one. Stay tuned for tales about people and community; about renovation and history.
You’ll also start seeing a Gallery section on the site menu shortly. These photo galleries provide a way for me to share more of the pictures from my travels.
So, dear reader, you’ll need a bit of mental dexterity to jump from Florida to Central America to northern New Mexico. Or perhaps not! Just enjoy the journey. I plan to!
And ask yourself: What’s on your bucket list?
Carpe diem!
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
I love a road trip. Having what you need at hand, with impossible possibilities ahead. It’s my kind of adventure.
For the next month, I’ll be traveling. The trip starts in Houston where I meet up with a friend. The itinerary for the first two weeks is Houston to New Orleans; St. Augustine; Ft. Lauderdale; and Miami. After that, stay tuned!
The first half of this road trip is from Houston to Miami
I’ll be posting here (in a delayed fashion). To keep up to date, please follow me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram where I’ll be posting daily pictures and videos. You can also follow many of the posts at Anti-CancerClub on Facebook.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Have a good laugh, but now follow me for an updated Irish food experience that leaves this antiquated perspective far, far behind.
Ireland is in the midst of a food revolution. It’s roots are deep in history and in local culture, led by pioneering people creating, crafting and growing luscious food products. From Dublin to the countryside, Ireland is reinventing its culinary future, one farm and one food at a time.
The food aspect of travel is (obviously) always on my agenda. And I was fortunate enough to meet some of the people making it happen in Ireland, on the Beara Peninsula.
This trip is a feast for your eyes, your stomach and your soul. Don’t neglect any of them. Let’s start with some pictures from the drive over Healy Pass between Killarney and Castletownbere .
Looking back down the roadway towards Killarney from Healy Passis a spectacular view of green lands, blue seas and towering mountains.You’ll note the road is not very wide.
The winding road from Killarney to the Beara Peninsula
View of Castletownbere, the second largest fishing port in Ireland.
The N 71 from Killarney is a beautiful drive that becomes more rural with each passing kilometer. Small winding roads and green hedges punctuated by occasional sweeping vistas mark the drive to my first stop at Kenmare, about 32 kilometers from Killarney. Our trip, part of the TBEX conference, was arranged by Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours. Kay Woods was our knowledgeable director.
A steeple in Kenmare.
Kenmare is a lovely town not far from Killarney. We stopped briefly and while others wandered the town, I found myself drawn to a small booth where Francis Brennan, a local photographer by way of Dublin was displaying his wares. Chatting led to questions about why was I in Ireland. I responded with the abbreviated story of CancerRoadTrip–of how cancer led to betrayal which led to CancerRoadTrip. And in Ireland, as elsewhere, I found a resounding response to the idea of the overall CancerRoadTrip project.
As the topic of cancer is broached, there is almost always a slight pause in the conversation, an awkwardness before the stories start to pour out. Everyone has a cancer story: a friend, a family member, someone in their circle. Everyone feels the emotion, helplessness and void generated by this disease. The universal, heart felt response to the impact of cancer on all of our lives moves with CancerRoadTrip as I travel. Sometimes I think I should simply write all these stories, rather than the travelogue. What’s your cancer story?
But on with the adventure. Because a foodie adventure is what life is all about!
Francis Brennan, a local photographer specializing in black and white photos of the local area.
Kenmare lies on two noted Irish tourist routes, the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. Kenmare is an anglicized form of CeannMara, meaning “head of the sea”, referring to the head of Kenmare Bay. It’s a perfect jumping off point for more local exploration and we are accompanied by Andrew Heath of Manning’s Emporium .
Manning’s Emporium traces its roots back to a family farm back in the 1940’s. In the 1970’s, Val Manning started the shop to support local producers. It’s grown and is now under that ownership of his niece Laura and her husband Andrew Heath. It’s “a bustling food store, cafe and tapas bar specialising in local and artisan produce” that has won numerous awards including ‘The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland’ Guide by John and Sally McKenna, ‘Top Choice’ Cafe in the Lonely Planet Guide Bantry Section, and was named as the 2017 winner of the Restaurant Association Awards for ‘Best Casual Dining in Cork’. Andrew also offers customized food tours. He is a walking encyclopedia of Irish food sources and we were lucky enough to have him join us for most of the trip.
After our brief stop in Kenmare, we headed to Castletownbere, a coastal fishing village which just happens to be home to the All Irish Chowder Champion.
The bus we are traveling is a small one. It is a small group. And the roads are winding and narrow. Going over Healy Pass there is just room for one vehicle. Meeting another head on at speed would definitely be problematic.
Entering Castletownbere, the sea becomes an integral part of the scenery. The town is quiet and even bit sleepy. The sun plays hide and seek with a low cloud base, causing the water to sparkle briefly here and there before it disappears.
The temperate climate allows seemingly exotic trees like palm trees to thrive along the Irish coast.
The town is named after the MacCarty Castle which no longer stands. It’s also called Castletown berehaven. Like other rural parts of Ireland, the population is small. Declining population in a rural setting is a theme that comes up repeatedly during the day.
In Castletownbere we visit with Mark Johnson at The Beara Coast Hotel for a lesson in making his specialty, THE Irish award winning chowder. Mark talks about the process of making the chowder as well as the importance of having access to the finest, freshest ingredients. And Irish cream. Lots of Irish cream!
(You may want to turn up the volume on your computer for this video.)
From the carefully simmered white fish stock to the freshly caught fish selections, to the local Irish cream, the freshness of the ingredients comes through. This chowder is a total winner.
Accompanying the chowder was a seaweed scone that was nothing short of remarkable. The slightly salty taste of the seaweed flecks embedded in the rich pastry dough, slathered with Irish butter, paired with seafood chowder, totally rocks.
Seaweed is becoming a “thing” in Ireland, led by John Fitzgerald at Atlantic Irish Seaweed located in Derrynane on the Ring of Kerry. The culinary use of seaweed dates back to 6th century monks and Ireland, by virtue of its extensive Atlantic coast, is home to over 625 varieties. John is part scientist and educator and he offers seaside discovery tours that take you foraging through the rocky coast in quest of the perfect seaweed.
The next stop is Beara Distillery which had just opened Saturday September 20th 2017. Beara Distillery uses a unusual ingredient–seawater– in their recipe for this lovely, light, fragrant botanical gin.
This artisanal gin uses a two step production process to infuse local botanicals into the base, resulting in a light, botanical flavor.
From their website:
“The Beara Peninsula’s Wild Atlantic Shore is host to an abundance of unusual botanicals and that was how the idea of Beara Ocean Gin was born.
The Atlantic Ocean Botanicals we use in our Gin include Salt water and Sugar Kelp that balance with the freshness of Juniper and Zesty Citrus Aromas. While Cardamom, Angelica and Orris root add complexity.
The result is a unique blend of native sea Flora with traditional botanicals for an altogether enjoyable and easy drinking Gin.”
Easy drinking indeed! They make a base gin with juniper and traditional flavorings. Then individual distillates (fuchsia, sugar kelp and the zest) are added. Purified sea water brings the concentration to a legal threshold and voila! A magical gin.
***
Award Winning Milleen’s Cheese
Millen’s award winning cheese
Up next is a very special visit to a very special farm that produces a very special cheese (I presume that you are getting the drift that this is a real find): Milleen’s Cheese.
Norman Steele talking about the history of Milleen’s
Milleen’s is a family farm started by Norman and Veronica Steele. The cottage includes a sitting room, where we had a buffet lunch. The sitting room is accessed by an outdoor walkway from the main cottage. It’s an organic family farm focused on producing cheeses of exceptional quality. They were “discovered” by Declan Ryan, a one Michelin star Irish chef of some renown from Cork.
The decision to make cheese came about almost by accident. With a growing family, a cow was added. But it was too much milk for a small family, no matter how much yogurt one made. So began the cheese experiment, which led to the cow herd, which led to the 1997 award of Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards.
Sadly, Norman’s beloved wife Veronica died fairly recently, but his son is stepping up into the family business. And they just hired a new cheesecake apprentice. It’s a job I’d be tempted to take on!
Norman is a delightful man who enjoys telling his story. Here’s Norman telling a bit of the history of his farm and subsequent fame:
A significant part of the farm’s story is based on the intense connection between the Milleen’s and their land. The farm is organic and the purity of the environment is a key piece to the quality of the cheese. Norman’s son, Quinlan, is a vocal advocate for the organic life. Much of his argument, for me, is deeply familiar. Knowing what goes into your food–how and where it is produced; the chemicals, if any, used in production; and the impact of time to market are very real and very important factors. Next time you reach for some food, stop and wonder: Where is it from and how did it get to you? What are you really eating? Think on it a bit.
Here are a few pictures from the farm:
The view from Milleen’s Cheese
An old stone barn wall alongside original farmhouse.
Norman’s son Quinlan is slowly taking over the cheese operations at Milleen’s.
Cheeses aging in the old stone house at Milleen’s.
Kush Shellfish, Kenmare
100% organic mussels from Kush Shellfish
Kush Shellfish is Ireland’s first organic rope mussels producer, with operations in Kenmare Bay in a Special Area of Conservation (designated under the European Union Habitats Directive) off the south west coast of Ireland. They export to many countries, including the U.S. under the name of Saint Patrick Shellfish. In addition to the shellfish, their exports include their Mussel Soup which is a rich, thick vegetable based soup, hearty enough for an Irish winter’s day. We were also lucky enough to have a bowl of simple steamed mussels that was absolutely outstanding. Fresh from the sea, tender, and perfectly cooked.
The mussels are raised using a rope or bouchot method, which is a French method of cultivating mussels in tidal zones. Pilings, known as bouchots in French, are planted at sea, with a spiraling rope wound about them. Mesh netting may be added to prevent the mussels from falling off. They may be harvested by hand or by machine.
Once again, the emphasis is on working with the environment. Mussels feed on phytoplankton and microscopic marine algae which are in natural abundance in the tidal zone, The purity of the environment, in turn, produces a remarkable product.Do make it a point to enjoy some of these mussels should you find yourself in the Kenmare area.
Whether it’s goat cheese in the Pacific Northwest or mussels in Ireland, the common and consistent denominator in my foodie forays is the freshness of the environment in which the food is raised and the consummate care of the artisans that raise it. From farm to table may on the verge of becoming a cliche, but from Beara to table is a total and remarkable delight. Be sure to put Beara peninsula on your culinary map and contact either Andrew Heath or Kay Woods at Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours for a more personalized and knowledgeable visit.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
The poetic image of oceans, paired with Ireland, conjures up smells of salt and brine. A cool, damp breeze and perhaps an intermittent bracing rain. But for me, the mere mention of the seas suggests the possibility of oysters.
Oysters seem to follow me in my travels. This is not intentional on my part. I consider it to be culinary travel karma. And Ireland did not disappoint.
The singing oyster at the Guinness Storehouse I could have done without. (Seriously, a singing oyster. I have it on film, but I’m not sure I can bear to watch it again.) But the Glenbeigh Shellfish oysters I couldn’t pass up. More on that later in the post.
The majority of the food during my short trip to Dublin and Killarney was simply good pub food. But the next post–the culinary piece de resistance!–will take us deep into the Beara Peninsula where we meet some of the movers and shakers transforming the Irish culinary scene. Stay tuned.
Dublin Fare
Pubs
The Temple Bar is a famous Dublin pub named after the founder of the area Temple Bay, Sir William Temple.
On the pub side, on a purely tourist level, one eats well. Pub forays were by chance; we stopped when we were hungry. I missed dining at some of the more famous pubs, but I think of it as just saving them for the next trip.
Temple Bar is a fairly famous pub that stands out in the neighborhood founded by it’s namesake, Sir William Temple (1555-1627). In the 1600’s, Barr (shortened over time to ‘Bar’) usually meant a raised sandbank. Thus the Liffey embankment alongside the Temple property became known as Temple Bar. This name was passed along to become the name of the entire section of town, from Westmoreland Street to Fishamble Street.
In spite of the tempting oyster sign in the window, I did not dine here. The sign taunted me, but for whatever reason, this was not in my culinary karma. Rest assured it’s on my return list for the fall of 2018.
While in Ireland, my personal dining strategy was to stay as healthy as possible. I believe that what we eat matters. I’m essentially a fish eating vegetarian by preference and I like to know where my food comes from. Normally I opt for low glycemic food choices, but frankly, for a few days, I was seduced by Irish bread, beer and scones. And I enjoyed every bit of it.
A pub on the corner, not far from the elusive Dublin Castle (see previous post), was our first jet lagged lunch. Fish and chips. And Guinness. The fish and chips were very well prepared, if a tiny bit overcooked and under seasoned. Perhaps I am probably being a bit picayune on these details, but the wee-est bit of salt sprinkled as the fish came out of the fryer would have made a massive difference in the taste.
Another day we wandered into Bad Bob’s, in Temple Bar. The pub lays at least partial claim to the invention of Irish coffee. The tale weaves into the history of aviation and provides a most satisfying story. From their website:
A Supermarine Southhampton Flying Boat-Flying boats are part of the story of Irish coffee in Dublin and beyond! Picture Source: Wikipedia
“The traditional storyline goes that Foynes, which in the 1930s and 40s existed as the ‘Flying Boat’ hub between Europe and the United States, engaged in a prestigious world of hospitality to entertain the wealthy American and Canadian passengers who travelled across the Atlantic. During the winter of 1943 an American Airlines flight bound for New York via Botwood, Newfoundland, returned to the base at Foynes owing to inclement weather and hazardous flying conditions. The passengers disembarked frightened, fatigued and frozen, requesting warm food and restorative drink. It was at this point that Joe Sheridan secured his moment of fame and earned his place in the history of world liqueurs by serving Irish Coffees to the stricken passengers. When one passenger queried: “Is this Brazilian Coffee?” Joe Sheridan is reputed to have replied: “No, this is Irish Coffee.” -Bad Bob’s, How It All Began
My salmon and Guinness at Bad Bob’s in Dublin, Ireland
The food at Bad Bob’s was what I call “Dublin good”. That means tasty and well prepared. Ann had a braised lamb shank she loved. I ordered salmon which came perched upon a massive amount of potatoes. And the spuds were perfectly seasoned, with simply salt, pepper and parsley (and, of course, Irish butter), and a drizzle of sauce undoubted laced with more butter and cream.
The Guinness, of course, was perfect. Guinness as Usual, as the Irish say, and they are right.
The Conrad Hotel in Dublin
The Conrad Hotel, Dublin, Ireland
On the culinary front, our Dublin Hotel, The Conrad, was a real standout. It easily surpassed the typical notion of a hotel restaurant and exceeded any and all expectations one might bring to the table.
Morning breakfast (which was included in the cost of the room) was truly outstanding.
The Conrad’s Dublin breakfast buffet include fresh fruit as well as decadent pastries, cheeses and meats.
While I’ve become a green tea drinker (green tea is rich in EGCG which has been shown to inhibit tumor cell growth and invasiveness) I succumbed to the incredible aroma and smooth taste of the dark roasted coffee, served in individual French presses for each table.
The smell of perfectly roasted darkish coffee alone would bring many people to their knees in the wee hours of the morning, but the buffet table has almost the same effect. Eggs cooked to order along with a buffet of Irish specialties including smoked fish, cheese, sausages (hot and cold), cereals, fresh fruit, pastries, potatoes, baked tomatoes and were laid out with great care. And each and every item was excellent. Personally I became enamored of perfectly cooked poached eggs with a bit of Irish smoked salmon and broiled tomato.
Plus of course, a bit of toasted grainy Irish bread. The bread (not part of my normal diet!) was necessary because poised at the end of one long table in the breakfast room was an entire honeycomb, served with a spoon for scooping the honeycombed goo onto your plate. Soft, sweet and succulent. In tea, on bread or scones. Or just sneaked on a spoon for sheer delight.
Breakfast at the Conrad in Dublin included a honeycomb! You can scoop out your own fresh honey. Apply liberally!
On the sideboard are a variety of cheeses, meats and fish for this Irish breakfast in Dublin.
Breakfast pastries at the Conrad, Dublin. I did indulge in a scone-YUM! Paired with honey, it’s Irish heaven.
One night, too tired to walk another step, we opted to dine at the Conrad restaurant which was once again excellent. Fresh, gorgeous mussels, seasoned wth dill and perfectly cooked, with a welcomed glass of wine. The food at the Conrad was very, very good.
Perfectly cooked mussels in wine and dill in Dublin, Ireland, Conrad Hotel.
In Dublin, the standout dinner was at The Winding Stair. It’s comfort food, Irish style, all locally sourced. This emphasis on local food is a serious movement in Ireland, one which we’ll have a chance to explore in some depth in my next post.
Here are the comforting, fabulous, locally sourced dishes of The Winding Stair located at 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin :
Dining in Dublin, this simple dish of potted crab in butter was served with dark Irish bread…need one say more?
Sweet, tender, and oh so fresh cockles and mussels steamed and served. Dark bread slathered in Irish butter on the side. Yes, please! And some potatoes in the background.
For Dublin dining, my dinner partner opted for local lamb, perfectly cooked and wonderfully succulent. Don’t forget the potatoes!
The only disappointment was the restaurant for which I had the most hope, Dylan McGraths’s Taste At Rustic . Dylan is an award winning chef, highly regarded in Ireland. He was the owner of Mint, a Michelin one star restaurant which was forced to close as a result of the economic downturn in 2008. His response in 2010 was to open Rustic Stone, a restaurant that features seasonal, local produce. He has several other restaurants including Raw, Brasserie Sixty6, Fade Street Social and Taste at Rustic where we ate.
I mentioned this experience in a previous post. No need to beat a dead horse with this less than stellar review.
Dining in Killarney
Taking the train from Dublin to Killarney, I opted to pick up a bottle of water and a vegetarian sandwich at one of the station’s vendors. The sandwich was very good, and it was a good move. The food options on the train were very limited. While some train travel offers a dining car and good meal options, the train to Killarney did not.
Once we arrived in Killarney, time was tight. The TBEX Conference started early each morning, with speakers and workshops, followed by networking sessions. Mornings we dined at the Brehon Hotel where we enjoyed a stellar breakfast. I fell into the habit of ordering perfectly poached eggs with a bit of sautéed spinach, and indulging in some fruit and a scone from the buffet. All this was included in the price of the room.
Lunches in Killarney were generally catered as part of the conference. They always offered a fish option, for which I was very thankful.
Evenings were a confluence of social events and networking. The only free night outside the conference schedule was the first night where we visited the Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar and Larder, for excellent food and an Irish Whiskey tasting (see previous post).
Failte Ireland and TBEX hosted an excellent conference. The opening event was held at the Killarney racetrack, where we were treated to an array of local food vendors including local whiskey distillers, bread makers, dairies, and more importantly, oysters!
Glenbeigh oysters were the star of the opening evening festivities, in my humble opinion! Photo by Charlotte Coneybeer on Unsplash
We wandered through the stables, where the purveyors were stationed in the horse stalls, sampling, drinking and eating. Glenbeigh Shellfish, a County Kerry based seafood vendor, naturally caught my eye.
Glenbeigh Shellfish is a family run business raising Cromane Mussels, Pacific (Gigas) & Native Flat Oysters, Local Wild Cockles & Periwinkles. They are located in Glenbeigh between Cromand and Rossbeigh on the scenic Ring of Kerry and Wild Atlantic Way, on the southwest coast of Ireland. Their shellfish comes from from Cromane in Castlemaine Harbour and from west Cork.
The company was founded 1994 by Noel and Patricia Riordan, a husband and wife team. Noel and Patricia stock native Irish Flat Oysters sourced from Fenit Harbor in Tralee Bay. It’s a rare species only available from October to February (to protect the oyster stock). The oysters are particularly precious in that they are natural oysters, farmed. Were these oysters to disappear, there is nothing to replace them. They are truly a culinary resource. Should you get to Ireland, track down these oysters. They are worth the hunt.
To guide you in your culinary quests, TasteKerry promotes native foods in County Kerry and offers a downloadable app that guides the visitor through a variety of local food specialties.
But back to the oyster story.
Noel and Patricia brought their marvelous oysters. Most of the oysters are exported to France and Spain. I was told that in Ireland they are largely an unknown resource.
Beautiful, fresh, briny, cool oysters from Tralee Bay. Platter after platter of freshly harvested oysters. Let’s just say I had dinner in that stall that night, compliments of Glenbeigh Shellfish!
***
One of our last evenings we met up with a blogging group at a Hobbit Middle Earth themed pub called The Shire. The chance to share an evening with some of the special and fascinating people at this conference was truly priceless.
Old and new friends In Killarney, Ireland, from TBEX.
Meeting people while traveling is special. You are bonded by an exotic locale and the traditional means of connecting often aren’t relevant. Instead, one tells stories, travel stories, and through these adventures we find our commonalities and share our dreams.
May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Killarney is located southwest of Dublin, not far from the coast.
The purpose behind the trip to Ireland was to attend a TBEX event in Killarney. So after a few days in Dublin, it was off to Killarney to attend the meeting. Killarney is located in the south western quadrant of the island and is a perfect jumping off point for further exploration.
TBEX is a travel bloggers exchange. They hold periodic meetings in various locales across the world. This year, in Ireland, Failte Ireland who was one of the hosts of the meeting, realized over 3 billion impressions from the convergence of over 600 bloggers into the Killarney area. Wow! Social media truly rocks!
The train between Killarney and Dublin, Ireland.
Dublin to Killarney: Train Travel
To get to from Dublin to Killarney, we took the train. There are two train stations in Dublin. Make note of this and be sure you’re heading to the right one! We left from the Heuston station, and changed in Mallow for the final hour into Killarney. The ticket times were tight on the transfer–just minutes. But not to worry. It’s just a few steps across the platform and the train is waiting for the on boarding passengers. Once you’re out of Dublin, the train stations are small, so don’t be afraid to navigate this system, even with tight connection times, from point to point.
The Irish rail system offers reserved seats that can be purchased on line or at the train station kiosk before boarding. Be sure to opt for the reservations. You’ll be greeted by an electronic sign with your name, over your seat. Failing to do this means that you may be wondering from car to car looking for a seat.
You can also book your tickets on-line directly through IrishRail or by using RailEurope. RailEurope is an American oriented interface that standardizes the various rail systems for easy booking. It’s a few dollars more, but more than worth it in terms of the time and effort saved in deciphering various railway systems and options.
I love train travel. You can kick back; watch the scenery go by; read; chat with fellow passengers–whatever suits you. Here are some pictures from the train:
Gathering speed as we leave the station en route from Dublin to Killarney.
The Irish countryside really is this pretty. Wait ’til we get to the coast!
Cars lined up on the “wrong side” of the road as the train goes on its route.
Killarney
Killarney is something of a tourist destination. It’s a beautiful small town, populated by pubs and shops full of Irish sweaters and, of course, Irish whiskey. Our short Irish whiskey foray in Dublin, turned into an introduction to the owner of The Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar and Larder in Killarney. And into an evening of sampling a greatly under appreciated resource of this island.
An Irish whiskey tasting in Killarney was a fascinating experience.
A wee bit of food with the whiskey! This plate of local cheeses totally rocked!
I think the thing that stunned me the most was the range of whiskeys. The care in crafting a wide range of flavors ranging from light and even fruity (Writer’s Tears, my personal favorite) to a peaty blend, such as Connemara was evident. Whiskies can be aged in a variety of different types of barrels, including barrels from port and sherry. Each imparts a unique flavor profile to the amber liquid.
As an aside, the Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar also had excellent food. We ordered a cheese plate, crab cakes and some sublime sautéed mushrooms on buttered, toasted Irish bread. Definitely something to toast! (Oh no, is that another bad pun/play on words?)
The days in Killarney focused on TBEX: Networking, learning, establishing new relationships. Part of my TBEX experience was a foodie foray to the Beara Peninsula, south of Killarney, which I’ll cover in a separate post.
The Wild Atlantic Way winds its way along the scenic Atlantic coast of Ireland. Source: WildAtlanticWay.com
Killarney offers a great central base for exploring the area and driving the Wild Atlantic Way. There are six regions to explore. From the northern end of the island westward to the southern tip, they are:
-Northern Headlands
-The Surf Coast
-The Bay Coast
-The Cliff Coast
-The Southern Peninsulas, and
-The Haven Coast.
For the southern portion, consider Killarney as a wonderfully civilized base camp.
In Killarney we stayed at the Brehon Hotel. It was excellent. The staff was helpful; the breakfasts, once again, were great. Eggs were cooked to order if you requested it and the breakfast buffet had everything one could wish for, and then some. The Brehon is located slightly out of town which was convenient for the TBEX meeting, but did involve a short cab ride to get into Killarney proper.
All the food at the Brehon bar was excellent. I had a flatbread with tomato and cheese, topped with herbs and a balsamic drizzle; wonderful tomato-lentil soup; and a crab plate that was simultaneously sweet, lively and succulent. Here is a look at the Brehon:
The Brehon Entrance (Photo credit: Ann Cavitt Fisher)
The Brehon Lobby (Photo credit: Ann Cavitt Fisher)
Crab at the Brehon Bar (Photo credit: Yours Truly. All photos are my own unless otherwise noted)
Evening, the town takes on a welcoming glow:
Killarney, Ireland as night falls.
A barrista making a perfect cup of coffee, or perhaps tea!
The Main Street of Killarney is lined with banners welcoming the blogger of TBEX. I guess 600+ people were kind of a big deal!
TBEX Ireland 2017
Our hosts, including Failte Ireland (Gaelic for “Welcome Ireland”), made sure our visit was perfect. For a welcoming event, we congregated at the raceway, where local food vendors were positioned in the stalls to provide a sampling of Irish tastes. The racetrack itself was beautiful, with cloud shrouded mountains forming the backdrop. We were treated to a parade of up and coming race horses and a bit of equine education. Another evening we met at a series of local pubs. The entire TBEX experience in Ireland was so terrific that a group of us are planning an extended trip in the Fall of 2018. Here are a few of the scenes from this year’s foray to Killarney.
The Killarney Racetrack at sundown as the TBEX festivities started.
The horses at Killarney Racetrack
Equine instruction at the racetrack from a real pro!
Cathedral in Killarney.
Pubs and restaurants abound in Killarney.
Irish music greeted us as we arrived in Killarney for our closing night on the town.
Let me close this post with my incredible enthusiasm for this island nation. I am looking forward to returning for a month in the Fall of 2018. Stay tuned for…
Up next: The food experience and revolution in Ireland, including a remarkable meeting with the people that are leading the Irish food movement in the Beara Peninsula.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out Masterclass for on-line excellence:
[et_bloom_inline optin_id=”optin_10″]
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
Thank you for stopping by!
CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.
So many restaurants from which to choose! Mayan, New Orleanian and simple costal food mingle together to create a very nice dining experience for nearly everyone.
I’m not going to single out any one restaurant, but there is one foodie place that you must stop.
