From talks by local historians such as Ana Pacheco to tequila tastings at the elegant Inn of the Anasazi, to African flavors at Jambo Cafe, there is something for everyone in Santa Fe’s Restaurant Week.
One can perfect one’s margarita; sample fabulous French food followed by an equally fabulous organic green chili burger oozing with a bit of spice and melted cheese; or learn to make mozzarella.
You can dine in a strip mall or in the elegance of a four star resort.
It’s an experiential week of creativity and spirit; of food and flavors; and of a bit of the past as the stories of history translate into the ways of today.
All set against the beautiful, artful town of Santa Fe.
Restaurant Week in Santa Fe, aka “The City Different”, is part of of a three week celebration of Northern New Mexico food:
Santa Fe’s celebration runs from February 18-25;
Taos Restaurant Week is February 25- March 4; and
Albuquerque celebrates its culinary talent March 4-11.
Nearly sixty restaurants are participating in Santa Fe alone. Each offers a 3 course lunch and/or dinner at a fixed price, usually well under $50. (Most lunches are $20-35 and dinners around $45). There are many top calibre restaurants on the list (such as the Four Seasons just north of the city in Tesuque, where the horse picture above was oversees their dining room), as well as many fun places for every day dining.
The next several posts will focus on my explorations during Santa Fe Restaurant Week. (This post covers days one and two.) My only regret is that the event only lasts a week, and I can only eat so much in a day!
Nevertheless, here, dear reader, are my best efforts!
Santa Fe Restaurant Week
“Only in Santa Fe” by Ana Pacheco
Caffe Greco 233 Canyon Road
This photo from my iPhone (a bit pixelated due to the low light) captures Ana Pacheco as she prepares to give her talk.
Have you ever wondered about the roots of a town? Why things are done a certain way? Why certain attitudes prevail? When it comes to Santa Fe, look no further than Restaurant Week’s featured talk by the city’s former historian, author and speaker, Ana Pacheco.
Ana Pacheco’s presentation, “Only in Santa Fe”, looks at a series of unique events sprinkled throughout Santa Fe’s history to provide some insight into this “City Different” as Santa Fe is called.
Santa Fe is a melting pot of many cultures. Founded by the Anasazi and later the Indians in the surrounding Pueblos, Santa Fe, the city, had 19 founding families, 11 of which were Jewish.
The city itself has been under four flags: Spanish, Mexican, Confederate and American. And while the original adobe style buildings–mud huts– were an inexpensive form of housing, today (as Ana says, chuckling)
“only the rich can afford to live in mud houses.”
Adobe houses around Palace Avenue just outside the Santa Fe Plaza
If you’re not familiar with Santa Fe, the east side is noted for its historic adobe architecture and expensive homes. Although the street view may sometimes seem plain or, on occasion, bordering on run-down, this is prime real estate. The location in the foothills and mountains immediately surrounding town is precious, and priced accordingly.
Ana Pacheco traces her roots to ancestors that settled in Santa Fe in 1694. Her mother, Natalie Ortiz, was a descendant of Diego de Vargas who led the resettlement of Santa Fe after the Pueblo Revolt in 1692.
Don Gaspar Avenue (an upscale and main street linking adobe residences with the downtown) is named after Ana Pacheco’s mothers great grandfather, Don Gaspar Ortiz.
On the Pacheco side, the family moved from Santa Cruz to Sant Fe in the late 1800s. Pacheco Street is named after Ana’s great-great grandfather Jose de la Cruz Pacheco.
The entire lecture, “Only in Santa Fe” is fun and engaging as Ana Pacheco weaves people and history into a unique blend that could only happen in this quirky town. It gave me insights that I’d otherwise have missed such as the story of the late Jewish Rabbi Helman, which is really a story of people and personality set against a palette of eccentric multiculturalism. Here’s the tale:
Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, Santa Fe
The Rabbi was well liked in Santa Fe. His outreach touched nearly everyone and his sense of community knew no bounds. When he passed, the services were held in the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, i.e., the Catholic Church.
Say Again???
Yes, the Rabbi had services in the Catholic church. Take a moment, if needed, to get your head around this because this is the perfect example of the quirky, generally get along attitude of this arty town.
The decision was partly personal–Rabbi Helman was best friends with his Catholic counterpart–and partly practical. The Basilica was the only religious entity large enough to house the crowds.
Helman was a man of paradoxes: a devout, observant Jew who believed in ecumenism. He attended Christmas Eve Mass at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi every Dec. 24 for 30 years and led those attending pianist John Gooch’s memorial services in a rousing chorus of “Amazing Grace” a few years ago.
Helman’s funeral, at his directive, will be at the Cathedral Basilica at 11 a.m. Monday. A good friend, former Cathedral rector Monsignor Jerome Martinez y Alire, will give the welcome and Rabbi Levy will conduct a traditional Reform Jewish ceremony.
So it was that the town’s popular Rabbi’s final services were held in the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.
Throughout Ana’s talk, two trends jumped out at me:
Santa Fe is–and always has been–almost a mecca for the eclectic in both religion and art.
The landscapes of Santa Fe are breathtaking, facing west, facing east, facing north or south.
The beautiful and spiritual landscape originally attracted the Anasazi and their Pueblo Indian descendants. Then in the 1600s, the Spanish arrived and christened the city the City of Holy Faith. Over the next several hundred years, other faiths including New Thought and New Age practitioners in the twentieth century, Sikhism (the 5th largest religion in the world) and Buddhism found its way into this small town. It is astonishing that four major lineages of Tibetan buddhism can be found in this town of less 70,000 people (total population is only 140,000 in the entire county).
On an artistic and historic front, the town is a blend of histories, characters, newcomers and old timers. People ranging from Billy the Kid (before he became the well known outlaw) to world class artists and authors have all based themselves in this small town.
How can such a small town in a relatively out of the way location (post Santa Fe Trail) achieve all this? From the founding of a world class opera in the mid fifties (at a time when the city population was only 35,ooo people!), to stays by Willa Cather, Huxley and D.H. Lawrence, not to mention the well known and often difficult Georgia O’Keefe, the depth of culture, history and creativity in Santa Fe is simply astounding.
Speaking of Ms. O’Keefe, did you know that the Georgia O’Keefe Museum in downtown Santa Fe is the only museum named after a woman?
As Ana Pacheco would say:
“Only in Santa Fe”!
Charcuterie at Caffe Greco
The Caffe Greco hosted Ana Pacheco’s talk, and served a beautiful charcuterie board and a glass of wine for $25. The food was wonderful, but I must admit it was the characters of the town, brought alive by Ana, that dominated the evening.
More Reading From Ana Pacheco on Santa Fe:
Ana Pacheco has numerous books about Santa Fe, available through her website and Amazon. One of the most popular is her in depth look at the eclectic spiritual history of this town nested between the Jemez and Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
And a wonderful picture compilation, taken mostly from various archives: Early Santa Fe
While we’re on the topic of the quirky and eclectic, another book I’d like to pass along (which I just started reading) is American Nations: A History the Eleven Rival Regional Cultures of North America. It looks at the settlement and migration trends of North America and how, even today, they influence our varying outlooks and attitudes. It’s a fascinating read that smashes many of the binary cultural paradigms surrounding our current society. If you pick this up, let me know your thoughts!
Santa Fe Restaurant Week
Lunch at Jambo Cafe
2010 Cerrillos Road at the St. Michael’s Drive intersection, In between Petco and Hobby Lobby
So many restaurant choices! How does one decide?
Darts?
Desire?
Alphabetical order?
Thankfully, there are fewer lunch choices since many restaurants open only for dinner. This day, I decided upon Jambo Cafe, which from the outside appears to be a fairly non-descript restaurant in a shopping center. But what the storefront doesn’t show is the easy going, heart warming, thoughtfully crafted food that resides inside.
The food is eclectic African/Caribbean. Spices and flavors beckon.
The Restaurant Week offerings from Jambo Cafe:
Jambo Cafe Menu
Restaurant Week, Santa Fe
Lunch: $25 Per Person
Appetizers
Goat Cheese & Pistachios With Organic Greens — drizzled with dried apricot tarragon vinaigrette
Curried Roasted Garlic & Coconut Cream Bisque (Vegan) — Winner of the 2018 Souper Bowl’s Cream Soup category
Entrees
Coconut Seafood Stew — with mussels, calamari, shrimp and mahi mahi in a red wine caper tomato sauce served with curry and green onion roti
Marinated Moroccan Spiced Lamb Kebabs — with pomegranate cucumber yogurt sauce over saffron mashed potatoes and garlic roasted Brussels sprouts
Ethiopian Lentil Stew (Vegan) — with eggplant and mixed vegetables slow-cooked in a spiced coconut sauce over basmati rice
Desserts
Date Coconut Flourless Chocolate Cake (with fresh whipped cream)
I opted for the Curried Roasted Garlic & Coconut Cream Bisque and the Lentil Stew. I may have to go back to try the Coconut Seafood Stew as well.
The soup was guiltless and fabulous. It needed a touch of seasoning–salt and pepper– but the subtle curry flavor and spice lingered just enough to tease another spoonful into your mouth. The garlic was rich and subtle, showing a deft hand in the kitchen. This sensibility was evident in all the dishes.
Vegetarian Lentil stew that rocks! With Basmati Rice on the side.
The Lentil Stew was fragrant, fun and warm. Fragrant with…I’m not sure what. But the light taste of the basmati rice was perfect with the rich stew. The flavors of celery, carrot, eggplant, tomato and spices simmered long and slow, building just a bit of heat, but never too much. A total winner. And a healthy choice as well.
Normally I’m not much of a dessert eater, but I decided to try the Date Coconut Flourless Chocolate Cake (with fresh whipped cream) just to see how the chef’s skills from lunch translated into dessert.
And did they! The cake was rich and dense, but never heavy. The soft puddles of hand whipped cream were perfect with the dark chocolate. It was not too sweet, which suited my taste just perfectly.
The Date Cocount Flourless Chocolate Cake with hand whipped cream from Jambo Cafe
Jambo Cafe has an extensive menu including a few future must-tries:
Savory Stuffed Phyllo
(Phyllo pastries filled with spinach, Moroccan black olives, organic feta, roasted red peppers, chickpeas, over organic field greens, drizzled with pomegranate sauce);
Spiced Rubbed Salmon Salad
(Grilled salmon with baby greens, capers, shaved red onion, crispy sweet potatoes and a mango-mustard dressing);
Banana Leaf Wrapped Island Spiced Maki Mahi
(Over wild black rice, with garlic sautéed baby boy choy, topped with a mango tamarind coconut sauce);
Spiced New Mexico Lamb Burger
(With tomato chutney and feta cheese)
Not to mention the Jambo Cafe Caribbean Goat Stew, the Sandwiches and Wraps, and an assortment of intriguing starters.
Santa Fe has many restaurants and I’d venture to guess the ones that stay, stay for a reason. I can see why Jambo Cafe is a popular spot, with others, and now with me.
From the New Mexican Restaurant Week website on Jambo Cafe:
“Jambo Café and Chef Ahmed are winners: “Best International Cuisine” for 6 years running and “Best Chef” in 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018 in the Santa Fe Reporter’s “Best of Santa Fe.” …Pasatiempo reviewer, Nouf Al-Qasimi said, “Obo’s food is spirited, and at its best, it strikes a superb balance between vibrant and subtle, making it better than most of what’s being served locally at many times the price.”
Chef Ahmed’s Cookbook, available through his website
Chef Obo’s cookbook is available through his website www.jamboimports.com as are his spice mixes and curries. The book is part memoir and part recipes. Chef Ahmed Obo also runs an African import business, a food truck and recently opened another Jambo Cafe location in Albuquerque, JamboCafeABQ.
And to think it’s only Monday!
Santa Fe Restaurant Week ho!
More Reading on Santa Fe and Santa Fe Restaurant Week:
It’s been a long time since I spent that year in New Orleans. It seems like a lifetime away. So I was curious about whether or not I’d feel sentimental about the town and my past.
I didn’t. Which was good.
It allowed me to look at New Orleans with fresh eyes.
So it was that I decided to get up early one morning and just go walking. I started in the French Quarter.
Cabildo in Jackson Square at Sunrise
Cathedral and Cabildo, New Orleans
New Orleans French Quarter
I always enjoy wandering the streets. Being the foodie that I am (it’s in my DNA; I can’t help myself) one of my favorite stores is Lucullus, a culinary antique shop on Royal Street:
Lucullus in the French Quarter, a culinary antique store
Antique candlesticks with a pedigree at Lucullus in the French quarter
The sheen of old copper is stunning at Lucullus in the French Quarter
And of course, the standards like Napoleon House:
Napoleon statue on the Napoleon House bar in French Quarter, New Orleans
Bartending at Napoleon House, New Orleans
Drinks at Napoleon House in the French Quarter, New Orleans
Not to mention the street processions celebrating…anything and everything! Here are three videos I took while just strolling about. Let the good times roll!
Many New Orleanians have said to me that they couldn’t imagine ever leaving New Orleans. I can understand that. It’s a blend of history, heredity and a melting pot of culture that is unique. From Louis Armstrong:
I was curious to get away from the touristed streets and re-visit some of my old haunts further uptown. I started with the warehouse district.
Since Katrina, New Orleans has grown up. The entire warehouse district–which was definitely on the shabby (not chic) and dangerous end of the social spectrum when I lived there–has been totally renovated. It’s full of hotels and galleries and a serious cruise ship terminal. And now it boasts the National World War II Museum that is simply extraordinary. The museum inspires, informs, engages and awes the visitor, through film, artifact and emotion.
I am always moved by World War II history because my father flew in the 8th Army Air Corps as a navigator. It was a brutal job. The 8th army Air Force was tasked with the air war over Europe . It had the highest casualty rate of all the service branches.
My father flew two tours. Knowing what I know now, about history and war and as a pilot, I do not know how these men survived this, physically and emotionally.
But on a lighter note, the museum also captures some of the revelry of the day:
History, and war, always creates winners and losers. It’s seldom as black and white as it’s sometimes presented. Take General Robert E. Lee for example.
The empty monument at Lee’s Circle, New Orleans
Lee is no longer atop the monument at Lee Circle. He had faced north because “you never turn your back on the enemy”. Lee and all the history he represents–of vanquished slavery, of a changing way of life, of the re-unification of this country under terribly difficult circumstances–was recently deemed to be “politically incorrect”.
Now an empty column sits awkwardly in the traffic circle.
Somehow his absence speaks louder than his quiet presence ever did.
In the ’80’s when I lived in New Orleans, the Civil War was just 100 years past. That meant that memories were still alive. People’s great grandparents experienced being on the losing end of a war, a war that ripped apart their traditions and culture and dramatically changed the trajectory of many lives.
That history–those very personal experiences– lived on through subsequent generations. The stories were of ordinary people, living ordinary lives, impacted by extraordinary events and times.
Like most history, the story that evolved was incredibly imperfect, unfair, uncertain, and full of imbalances. It’s one of the reasons that we need historic reminders. Not to celebrate defunct institutions or ideas, but to remember them with humility not hubris. For better and for worse, they are part of our human experience.
Those who fail to learn from history are condemned to repeat it. -Winston Churchill
Such wise words.
The Garden District
Commander’s Palace in the Garden District, New Orleans
I’m not yet ready for museum wandering this early morning . The sun is rising, and I want to head uptown. I snag a cab and head for the garden district using Commander’s Palace as a starting point.
Commander’s Palace will always have a fond spot in my heart. It’s my quintessential old New Orleans restaurant. Some prefer Antoine’s (where local families have their own waiter that looks after them) or perhaps Tujaques (which dates back to the 1850’s), both of which are terrific. But for me, it will always be those aqua striped awnings of this building nestled into the Garden District.
My first experiences at Commander’s occurred when Emeril Lagasse was chef. At the time he was unknown, but his bread pudding souffle with a bourbon creme anglaise became rapidly known. Talk about decadent! Rich, yes. Lucious, yes. Yet it was never to sweet. Really just the perfect, totally decadent balance. Teamed with dark, rich chicory coffee, a dinner at Commanders was to be savored.
That perfect balance of decadence and delight has found its way into dishes at other Brennan properties as well. At Sobu, the bread pudding was absolutely perfect. Hot sweet rich crunch from pecan; cold ice cream over a hot, fresh from the oven casserole… I almost never eat dessert, but a few bites of this was irresistible and I’m glad I was weak of will.
“New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.” –Mark Twain
Mr B’s in the French Quarter, New Orleans
Mr. B’s, one of my all time standbys was, however, somewhat disappointing. I stopped in late in the afternoon and ordered a bowl of gumbo. the bowl arrived heaped with seafood. Yum. But it was cold. I sent it back.
The bowl returned, but it was only barely warmed. And that pile of seafood was gone.
In all fairness, it was late in the day, after lunch, but quite before dinner. And they didn’t charge me for the gumbo. But surely managing to serve a basic bowl of gumbo HOT in a premier New Orleans French Quarter restaurant isn’t asking too much.
My tepid gumbo aside, if you’ve never been to New Orleans, it’s almost impossible to be disappointed, It’s a fun town, ready to party. The food is both local and exotic; the architecture wonderfully dated and original; the weather, is well, gulf weather.
***
At the Garden District I lighted from the cab and started walking. I had no particular plans, other than to simply explore. The gates to the cemetery across from Commanders was open and the morning light poured in:
New Orleans Cemetery
Cemetery New Orleans
Cemetery, New Orleans
Cemeteries are a unique and fascinating part of the New Orleans landscape. These “cities of the dead” exist because the city is below sea level. Digging down six feet simply isn’t an option so bodies are buried above ground. This practice follows the Spanish custom of using vaults for burial. Wealthier families created ornate tombs, some resemble small houses complete with iron fences.
The cemeteries are scattered throughout New Orleans, and each has its own tale to tell. They say dead men tell no tales, but in New Orleans, I wouldn’t be so sure of that.
***
Just down the way from the glorious mansions of the Garden District is Magazine Street, a funkier area that stretches from the Garden District to Uptown. But it’s too early for any shops to be open, except of course for breakfast.
Breakfast, Big Easy Style
Now you have to understand that breakfast in New Orleans is a genre unto itself. Decadent, sometimes heavy, always creative, and usually mouthwatering.
I had a fabulous breakfast at The Ruby Slipper on Magazine street. Here is a link to their menu. Try not to drool on your electronic device as you read this.
There is an option to combine any two items on the menu so I went for the Shrimp Boogaloo Benedict:
Gulf shrimp sauteed with pork tasso and creole tomato sauce served over fried green tomatoes, a buttermilk biscuit and two poached eggs
And the Hot-Smoked Salmon Bennie:
Hot-smoked salmon served over a buttermilk biscuit, topped with two poached eggs, finished with red onion, flash-fried capers & dill hollandaise
Both were great, but the Shrimp Boogaloo had me nearly licking the plate.
OMG.
Serious #Foodgasm!
The combination is simply irresistable as the slight acidity of the fried green tomatoes perfectly plays with the eggs and creole sauce. You’ll note that I totally abandoned my usual vegetarian diet here and it was worth every bite. (Life after all is about balance, rather than absolutes).
Let the good times roll!
While we’re on the topic of food, so many options, so little time! I had a wonderful dinner at Sobu:
Dinner at Sobu, New Orleans: Lightly blackened fish lends just an undertone of deep flavor, over a slightly smokey broth filled with charred tomato and corn.
An unbelievable desert at Sobu. This qualifies as #foodporn, as they say on Twitter.
Bartender Laura Bellucci at Sobu
Bartender Laura Bellucci also came up with some fabulous drinks including a milk punch with desert. I can’t say enough good things about my dinner at Sobu. It was sophisticated, well executed and creative. New Orleans at its best!
I also ate at Suzan Spicer’s Bayona. Suzan is a highly regarded NOLA chef. The dinner was good but I didn’t see a brilliance of creativity or execution that evening. The fried oyster salad I had to start was on the menu at Maison de Ville (a “hot” restaurant in its time) over 25 years ago. And the dish wasn’t executed with the attention to detail that makes this sing. The breading was heavy and less than artful. I don’t even recall what my main course was.
While we’re on the topic of restaurants, I also stopped int the Flying Pig Cafe near the World War II Museum for lunch. Another terrific meal in a luscious bowl of gumbo:
After breakfast at Ruby Slipper, I continued uptown. I walked off part of my breakfast (hah! I wish!) and bought a street car pass for the day for $3. While I lived here, I never rode the street car. My air conditioned car allowed me to insulate myself from the relentless heat and humidity and I used that to navigate town.
But the weather is pleasant today and as a tourist, it offered the perfect way to get around town. So along with some other tourists and a few locals, the car headed north. I got off at Audubon Park, walked and wandered.
Street car New Orleans
The architecture throughout New Orleans is so magnificent. Having studied architectural history for a year in New Orleans was a gift. The course was divided into the Quarter, Garden District, Uptown and the Plantations.
My professor was the principal of THE architectural renovation firm in town, and he loved his subject. Everywhere we went, people knew him. So we were invited into numerous houses, mansions and places that one might not normally see. Between classes, field trips and new friends, I explored New Orleans.
Since those days, much has changed. Much has remained the same. A wonderful new addition is The National world War II Museum.
This is a stellar museum. From the entry that simulates the experience of boarding a train to leave for war, to the films and the airplanes (and more!) this is simply a stunning museum. From the museum home page:
The National WWII Museum tells the story of the American experience in the war that changed the world—why it was fought, how it was won, and what it means today—so that all generations will understand the price of freedom and be inspired by what they learn.
May the lessons of history be learned, never to be repeated.
Here are just a few pictures from the Museum:
Suspended World War II bomber in theNew Orleans Nation World War II Museum
One of the propellers, up close, National World War II Museum New Orleans
World War II bomber, New Orleans National World War II Museum
New Orleans is so much more than one can present in a brief post. In just a few days I covered all this and so much more. Pictures from my wanderings are in the Gallery, accompanied by some “”Nawlins” jazz, some chicory coffee and lots of luscious pictures. Do visit!
Final thoughts: I’m grateful for the chance to revisit this town. It’s a fun town. In many ways it is smaller than I recall, but then the characters from my stay here in the eighties were somewhat larger than life. They were all very real as were their faults and foibles. But these days, the appeal of a reality grounded in now rather than escapism or egotism, is more my style.
New Orleans will never be a place that resonates for me. But this visit reminds me that we take ourselves wherever we go, and whatever we encounter we view through our own prism of time and experience.
I think back to a woman who sat next to me at the bar at Mr. B’s. She loved New Orleans, and made it a point to come regularly. For her, it’s a three day party. And she’s quite right. New Orleans really needs to adopt that motto that what happens here, stays here. Viva New Orleans!
A Cuban Inspired Culinary Tour in Miami’s Little Havana
Little did anyone know that New Year’s Day 1959 would change the course of Miami’s history and the history of Little Havana.
Castro’s rise to power led to a wave of immigration, starting with upper middle class and wealthier Cubans looking to sit out the revolution in South Florida. But sitting out turned into settling in. And this migration transformed the ethnic and cultural map of Miami, taking it from a retirement backwater to an international Latin city.
While Latino culture is now integral to the Miami scene, the roots of this immigration wave start with the first wave of immigrants who settled in and around Calle Ocho (8th Street) to create the neighborhood known as Little Havana .
Little Havana
Nestled just west of downtown Miami, Little Havana is a neighborhood with soul and character. More and more in my travels, I am on a quest for soul. Not shopping, not tourist experiences, but the institutions, food, habits and people that make a place its own.
Little Havana’s soul grows out of the immigration of both the 1960’s and the 1980’s which embraced over 700,000 Cuban refugees who made it here, often in small leaky boats. Today, over 1.5 million Floridians identify themselves as Cuban.
Since that heyday, the area has seen some economic decline, and immigration from other groups seeking a spot in America. But the importance of this neighborhood—culturally and historically– is recognized if not designated on the National Historic Register who named the neighborhood on its annual list of 11 Most Endangered Places. In 2017, the Trust declared it a national treasure.
And a treasure it is. The combination of rich culture and politics have an inherently sticky quality, even decades later as people meet to share both over a game of dominoes in Maximo Gomez Park (aka Domino Park).
People meet in Domino Park to play dominos, share points of view and pass the time with friends.
In Little Havana, dominoes brings people together in Maximo Gomez Park on Calle Ocho
Visit the slide show gallery for more pictures and information on visiting Little Havana.
Any trip to Little Havana needs to start with a shot of Cafe Cubano to get the day rolling. That perfect intense blend of espresso-like bitter and sugar-sweet (from a perfectly dissolved cube of sugar) leaves your taste buds lingering for just a bit more. At La Ventanita the barista pours the thick liquid into little cups at a street side bar. Morning coffee here is an institution.
Photo by Asoggetti on Unsplash
An institution on the other end of the spectrum, just up the Calle Ocho (8th Street) is The Ball and Chain, a 1930’s club that hosted jazz notables including Billie Holiday, count Basie and Chet Baker. Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitgerald are rumored to have performed here, but no solid evidence has been found.
Mists create a cooling respite for dancers at Ball and Chain in Little Havana
Salsa music, dancing and a bar with the most perfect mojito combine at the intersection of slightly seedy and historic. It all feels so good.
Cooling mist pours from nozzles overhead under the green and white striped canopy. A band plays; a dancer dances. Fresh cane juice is squeezed for the most perfect mojito. In the back, a patio and stage offer an outdoor entertainment area.
Sit, have a mojito. Listen to the beat of the music. Outside of Cuba, this may be the best mojito you will find. And these days, who knows, it may simply be the best.
The Ball and Chain Saloon opened in 1935. The history of this establishment is nothing short of a microcosm of the history of the times through which it has lived. Click here to visit their website for a detailed account of the owners and the ups and downs of this Little Havana bar.
The day I visited it was late morning and already the music poured from the saloon onto the street. A dancer, a gentleman, salsas across the dance floor, beckoning the bystanders in:
All sort of remnants of Cuba are intertwined in daily life. Along Calle Ocho, mom and pop shops, cigars, pressed sandwiches, art galleries and more reflect the culture of Little Havana.
A bit further down the street, hand rolled cigars from Pedro Bello’s Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company displays over 100 years of family ownership and their expertise in the art of hand rolling a cigar.
Hand rolling is an art form perfected in Pedro Bello’s Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company
Pedro Bella is a legend of sorts. Many days he sits outside the shop, smoking his cigar, next to the wooden Indian where he poses for pictures and passes the day. Time seems to stand still on parts of Calle Ocho as old time craftsmanship and people lead the way forward.
Pedro Bello outside his Cuba Tobacco Cigar Company
The food of Little Havana is, as you would expect, Latin with that wonderful Cuban flair. Taste an authentic Cubano sandwiche at Old Havana Restaurant; savorthe sweet taste of guava perfection at Yisil Bakery; sip on guarapo at Los Pinarenos Fruteria.
At EL Pub, the Beef Picadillo Empanada is crunchy on the outside, with an unusual kick from the filing: olives that deliver piquancy and salt to the filling. The whole wheat pastry brings substance and savory to the pastry. A win/win on both counts.
And don’t overlook Azucar Ice Cream where the sweet mantecado is a must try. The owner, Suzy Battle, has perfected her grandmother’s recipes including one named after her, Abuela Maria.
As well as great food and Little Havana institutions, you will undoubtedly run into roosters. They began showing up on Calle Ocho in 2002 as part of the “Rooster Walk” project by artists in the Little Havana neighborhood.
These feathered fellows show up in all sorts of forms and outfits. Some are bright colored; some are patriotically dressed.
Patriotic rooster on Calle Ocho in Little Havana
Cuba ia a country so close yet so far from the U.S. A mere ninety miles separates the two. From sea, the morning sun rises over this island nation. While the early immigrants have aged and their children have become the force behind the rise of Miami as a rich Latino center, Cuba still beckons.
Little Havana is a story of America starting in the 1960’s. It’s about immigration, assimilation, hope and dreams and the inevitable evolution of events with time. May the people of Cuba see their homeland again, up close rather than from afar.
Sunrise over Cuba from afar, taken several miles out at sea Photo: Pat Wetzel
If you go…
Look up Miami Culinary Tours. They offer a very nice walking tour that combines numerous culinary highlights with a bit of history.
Stay at the Ball and Chain for Happy Hour (Uber is everywhere in Miami! Stay and enjoy this amazing institution and its equally amazing concoctions.)
Walk the streets and enjoy the old world ambiance of Cuban via Little Havana.
Visit the slide show gallery for more pictures and information on visiting Little Havana.
Have a good laugh, but now follow me for an updated Irish food experience that leaves this antiquated perspective far, far behind.
Ireland is in the midst of a food revolution. It’s roots are deep in history and in local culture, led by pioneering people creating, crafting and growing luscious food products. From Dublin to the countryside, Ireland is reinventing its culinary future, one farm and one food at a time.
The food aspect of travel is (obviously) always on my agenda. And I was fortunate enough to meet some of the people making it happen in Ireland, on the Beara Peninsula.
This trip is a feast for your eyes, your stomach and your soul. Don’t neglect any of them. Let’s start with some pictures from the drive over Healy Pass between Killarney and Castletownbere .
Looking back down the roadway towards Killarney from Healy Passis a spectacular view of green lands, blue seas and towering mountains.You’ll note the road is not very wide.
The winding road from Killarney to the Beara Peninsula
View of Castletownbere, the second largest fishing port in Ireland.
The N 71 from Killarney is a beautiful drive that becomes more rural with each passing kilometer. Small winding roads and green hedges punctuated by occasional sweeping vistas mark the drive to my first stop at Kenmare, about 32 kilometers from Killarney. Our trip, part of the TBEX conference, was arranged by Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours. Kay Woods was our knowledgeable director.
A steeple in Kenmare.
Kenmare is a lovely town not far from Killarney. We stopped briefly and while others wandered the town, I found myself drawn to a small booth where Francis Brennan, a local photographer by way of Dublin was displaying his wares. Chatting led to questions about why was I in Ireland. I responded with the abbreviated story of CancerRoadTrip–of how cancer led to betrayal which led to CancerRoadTrip. And in Ireland, as elsewhere, I found a resounding response to the idea of the overall CancerRoadTrip project.
As the topic of cancer is broached, there is almost always a slight pause in the conversation, an awkwardness before the stories start to pour out. Everyone has a cancer story: a friend, a family member, someone in their circle. Everyone feels the emotion, helplessness and void generated by this disease. The universal, heart felt response to the impact of cancer on all of our lives moves with CancerRoadTrip as I travel. Sometimes I think I should simply write all these stories, rather than the travelogue. What’s your cancer story?
But on with the adventure. Because a foodie adventure is what life is all about!
Francis Brennan, a local photographer specializing in black and white photos of the local area.
Kenmare lies on two noted Irish tourist routes, the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. Kenmare is an anglicized form of CeannMara, meaning “head of the sea”, referring to the head of Kenmare Bay. It’s a perfect jumping off point for more local exploration and we are accompanied by Andrew Heath of Manning’s Emporium .
Manning’s Emporium traces its roots back to a family farm back in the 1940’s. In the 1970’s, Val Manning started the shop to support local producers. It’s grown and is now under that ownership of his niece Laura and her husband Andrew Heath. It’s “a bustling food store, cafe and tapas bar specialising in local and artisan produce” that has won numerous awards including ‘The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland’ Guide by John and Sally McKenna, ‘Top Choice’ Cafe in the Lonely Planet Guide Bantry Section, and was named as the 2017 winner of the Restaurant Association Awards for ‘Best Casual Dining in Cork’. Andrew also offers customized food tours. He is a walking encyclopedia of Irish food sources and we were lucky enough to have him join us for most of the trip.
After our brief stop in Kenmare, we headed to Castletownbere, a coastal fishing village which just happens to be home to the All Irish Chowder Champion.
The bus we are traveling is a small one. It is a small group. And the roads are winding and narrow. Going over Healy Pass there is just room for one vehicle. Meeting another head on at speed would definitely be problematic.
Entering Castletownbere, the sea becomes an integral part of the scenery. The town is quiet and even bit sleepy. The sun plays hide and seek with a low cloud base, causing the water to sparkle briefly here and there before it disappears.
The temperate climate allows seemingly exotic trees like palm trees to thrive along the Irish coast.
The town is named after the MacCarty Castle which no longer stands. It’s also called Castletown berehaven. Like other rural parts of Ireland, the population is small. Declining population in a rural setting is a theme that comes up repeatedly during the day.
In Castletownbere we visit with Mark Johnson at The Beara Coast Hotel for a lesson in making his specialty, THE Irish award winning chowder. Mark talks about the process of making the chowder as well as the importance of having access to the finest, freshest ingredients. And Irish cream. Lots of Irish cream!
(You may want to turn up the volume on your computer for this video.)
From the carefully simmered white fish stock to the freshly caught fish selections, to the local Irish cream, the freshness of the ingredients comes through. This chowder is a total winner.
Accompanying the chowder was a seaweed scone that was nothing short of remarkable. The slightly salty taste of the seaweed flecks embedded in the rich pastry dough, slathered with Irish butter, paired with seafood chowder, totally rocks.
Seaweed is becoming a “thing” in Ireland, led by John Fitzgerald at Atlantic Irish Seaweed located in Derrynane on the Ring of Kerry. The culinary use of seaweed dates back to 6th century monks and Ireland, by virtue of its extensive Atlantic coast, is home to over 625 varieties. John is part scientist and educator and he offers seaside discovery tours that take you foraging through the rocky coast in quest of the perfect seaweed.
The next stop is Beara Distillery which had just opened Saturday September 20th 2017. Beara Distillery uses a unusual ingredient–seawater– in their recipe for this lovely, light, fragrant botanical gin.
This artisanal gin uses a two step production process to infuse local botanicals into the base, resulting in a light, botanical flavor.
From their website:
“The Beara Peninsula’s Wild Atlantic Shore is host to an abundance of unusual botanicals and that was how the idea of Beara Ocean Gin was born.
The Atlantic Ocean Botanicals we use in our Gin include Salt water and Sugar Kelp that balance with the freshness of Juniper and Zesty Citrus Aromas. While Cardamom, Angelica and Orris root add complexity.
The result is a unique blend of native sea Flora with traditional botanicals for an altogether enjoyable and easy drinking Gin.”
Easy drinking indeed! They make a base gin with juniper and traditional flavorings. Then individual distillates (fuchsia, sugar kelp and the zest) are added. Purified sea water brings the concentration to a legal threshold and voila! A magical gin.
***
Award Winning Milleen’s Cheese
Millen’s award winning cheese
Up next is a very special visit to a very special farm that produces a very special cheese (I presume that you are getting the drift that this is a real find): Milleen’s Cheese.
Norman Steele talking about the history of Milleen’s
Milleen’s is a family farm started by Norman and Veronica Steele. The cottage includes a sitting room, where we had a buffet lunch. The sitting room is accessed by an outdoor walkway from the main cottage. It’s an organic family farm focused on producing cheeses of exceptional quality. They were “discovered” by Declan Ryan, a one Michelin star Irish chef of some renown from Cork.
The decision to make cheese came about almost by accident. With a growing family, a cow was added. But it was too much milk for a small family, no matter how much yogurt one made. So began the cheese experiment, which led to the cow herd, which led to the 1997 award of Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards.
Sadly, Norman’s beloved wife Veronica died fairly recently, but his son is stepping up into the family business. And they just hired a new cheesecake apprentice. It’s a job I’d be tempted to take on!
Norman is a delightful man who enjoys telling his story. Here’s Norman telling a bit of the history of his farm and subsequent fame:
A significant part of the farm’s story is based on the intense connection between the Milleen’s and their land. The farm is organic and the purity of the environment is a key piece to the quality of the cheese. Norman’s son, Quinlan, is a vocal advocate for the organic life. Much of his argument, for me, is deeply familiar. Knowing what goes into your food–how and where it is produced; the chemicals, if any, used in production; and the impact of time to market are very real and very important factors. Next time you reach for some food, stop and wonder: Where is it from and how did it get to you? What are you really eating? Think on it a bit.
Here are a few pictures from the farm:
The view from Milleen’s Cheese
An old stone barn wall alongside original farmhouse.
Norman’s son Quinlan is slowly taking over the cheese operations at Milleen’s.
Cheeses aging in the old stone house at Milleen’s.
Kush Shellfish, Kenmare
100% organic mussels from Kush Shellfish
Kush Shellfish is Ireland’s first organic rope mussels producer, with operations in Kenmare Bay in a Special Area of Conservation (designated under the European Union Habitats Directive) off the south west coast of Ireland. They export to many countries, including the U.S. under the name of Saint Patrick Shellfish. In addition to the shellfish, their exports include their Mussel Soup which is a rich, thick vegetable based soup, hearty enough for an Irish winter’s day. We were also lucky enough to have a bowl of simple steamed mussels that was absolutely outstanding. Fresh from the sea, tender, and perfectly cooked.
The mussels are raised using a rope or bouchot method, which is a French method of cultivating mussels in tidal zones. Pilings, known as bouchots in French, are planted at sea, with a spiraling rope wound about them. Mesh netting may be added to prevent the mussels from falling off. They may be harvested by hand or by machine.
Once again, the emphasis is on working with the environment. Mussels feed on phytoplankton and microscopic marine algae which are in natural abundance in the tidal zone, The purity of the environment, in turn, produces a remarkable product.Do make it a point to enjoy some of these mussels should you find yourself in the Kenmare area.
Whether it’s goat cheese in the Pacific Northwest or mussels in Ireland, the common and consistent denominator in my foodie forays is the freshness of the environment in which the food is raised and the consummate care of the artisans that raise it. From farm to table may on the verge of becoming a cliche, but from Beara to table is a total and remarkable delight. Be sure to put Beara peninsula on your culinary map and contact either Andrew Heath or Kay Woods at Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours for a more personalized and knowledgeable visit.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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The poetic image of oceans, paired with Ireland, conjures up smells of salt and brine. A cool, damp breeze and perhaps an intermittent bracing rain. But for me, the mere mention of the seas suggests the possibility of oysters.
Oysters seem to follow me in my travels. This is not intentional on my part. I consider it to be culinary travel karma. And Ireland did not disappoint.
The singing oyster at the Guinness Storehouse I could have done without. (Seriously, a singing oyster. I have it on film, but I’m not sure I can bear to watch it again.) But the Glenbeigh Shellfish oysters I couldn’t pass up. More on that later in the post.
The majority of the food during my short trip to Dublin and Killarney was simply good pub food. But the next post–the culinary piece de resistance!–will take us deep into the Beara Peninsula where we meet some of the movers and shakers transforming the Irish culinary scene. Stay tuned.
Dublin Fare
Pubs
The Temple Bar is a famous Dublin pub named after the founder of the area Temple Bay, Sir William Temple.
On the pub side, on a purely tourist level, one eats well. Pub forays were by chance; we stopped when we were hungry. I missed dining at some of the more famous pubs, but I think of it as just saving them for the next trip.
Temple Bar is a fairly famous pub that stands out in the neighborhood founded by it’s namesake, Sir William Temple (1555-1627). In the 1600’s, Barr (shortened over time to ‘Bar’) usually meant a raised sandbank. Thus the Liffey embankment alongside the Temple property became known as Temple Bar. This name was passed along to become the name of the entire section of town, from Westmoreland Street to Fishamble Street.
In spite of the tempting oyster sign in the window, I did not dine here. The sign taunted me, but for whatever reason, this was not in my culinary karma. Rest assured it’s on my return list for the fall of 2018.
While in Ireland, my personal dining strategy was to stay as healthy as possible. I believe that what we eat matters. I’m essentially a fish eating vegetarian by preference and I like to know where my food comes from. Normally I opt for low glycemic food choices, but frankly, for a few days, I was seduced by Irish bread, beer and scones. And I enjoyed every bit of it.
A pub on the corner, not far from the elusive Dublin Castle (see previous post), was our first jet lagged lunch. Fish and chips. And Guinness. The fish and chips were very well prepared, if a tiny bit overcooked and under seasoned. Perhaps I am probably being a bit picayune on these details, but the wee-est bit of salt sprinkled as the fish came out of the fryer would have made a massive difference in the taste.
Another day we wandered into Bad Bob’s, in Temple Bar. The pub lays at least partial claim to the invention of Irish coffee. The tale weaves into the history of aviation and provides a most satisfying story. From their website:
A Supermarine Southhampton Flying Boat-Flying boats are part of the story of Irish coffee in Dublin and beyond! Picture Source: Wikipedia
“The traditional storyline goes that Foynes, which in the 1930s and 40s existed as the ‘Flying Boat’ hub between Europe and the United States, engaged in a prestigious world of hospitality to entertain the wealthy American and Canadian passengers who travelled across the Atlantic. During the winter of 1943 an American Airlines flight bound for New York via Botwood, Newfoundland, returned to the base at Foynes owing to inclement weather and hazardous flying conditions. The passengers disembarked frightened, fatigued and frozen, requesting warm food and restorative drink. It was at this point that Joe Sheridan secured his moment of fame and earned his place in the history of world liqueurs by serving Irish Coffees to the stricken passengers. When one passenger queried: “Is this Brazilian Coffee?” Joe Sheridan is reputed to have replied: “No, this is Irish Coffee.” -Bad Bob’s, How It All Began
My salmon and Guinness at Bad Bob’s in Dublin, Ireland
The food at Bad Bob’s was what I call “Dublin good”. That means tasty and well prepared. Ann had a braised lamb shank she loved. I ordered salmon which came perched upon a massive amount of potatoes. And the spuds were perfectly seasoned, with simply salt, pepper and parsley (and, of course, Irish butter), and a drizzle of sauce undoubted laced with more butter and cream.
The Guinness, of course, was perfect. Guinness as Usual, as the Irish say, and they are right.
The Conrad Hotel in Dublin
The Conrad Hotel, Dublin, Ireland
On the culinary front, our Dublin Hotel, The Conrad, was a real standout. It easily surpassed the typical notion of a hotel restaurant and exceeded any and all expectations one might bring to the table.
Morning breakfast (which was included in the cost of the room) was truly outstanding.
The Conrad’s Dublin breakfast buffet include fresh fruit as well as decadent pastries, cheeses and meats.
While I’ve become a green tea drinker (green tea is rich in EGCG which has been shown to inhibit tumor cell growth and invasiveness) I succumbed to the incredible aroma and smooth taste of the dark roasted coffee, served in individual French presses for each table.
The smell of perfectly roasted darkish coffee alone would bring many people to their knees in the wee hours of the morning, but the buffet table has almost the same effect. Eggs cooked to order along with a buffet of Irish specialties including smoked fish, cheese, sausages (hot and cold), cereals, fresh fruit, pastries, potatoes, baked tomatoes and were laid out with great care. And each and every item was excellent. Personally I became enamored of perfectly cooked poached eggs with a bit of Irish smoked salmon and broiled tomato.
Plus of course, a bit of toasted grainy Irish bread. The bread (not part of my normal diet!) was necessary because poised at the end of one long table in the breakfast room was an entire honeycomb, served with a spoon for scooping the honeycombed goo onto your plate. Soft, sweet and succulent. In tea, on bread or scones. Or just sneaked on a spoon for sheer delight.
Breakfast at the Conrad in Dublin included a honeycomb! You can scoop out your own fresh honey. Apply liberally!
On the sideboard are a variety of cheeses, meats and fish for this Irish breakfast in Dublin.
Breakfast pastries at the Conrad, Dublin. I did indulge in a scone-YUM! Paired with honey, it’s Irish heaven.
One night, too tired to walk another step, we opted to dine at the Conrad restaurant which was once again excellent. Fresh, gorgeous mussels, seasoned wth dill and perfectly cooked, with a welcomed glass of wine. The food at the Conrad was very, very good.
Perfectly cooked mussels in wine and dill in Dublin, Ireland, Conrad Hotel.
In Dublin, the standout dinner was at The Winding Stair. It’s comfort food, Irish style, all locally sourced. This emphasis on local food is a serious movement in Ireland, one which we’ll have a chance to explore in some depth in my next post.
Here are the comforting, fabulous, locally sourced dishes of The Winding Stair located at 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin :
Dining in Dublin, this simple dish of potted crab in butter was served with dark Irish bread…need one say more?
Sweet, tender, and oh so fresh cockles and mussels steamed and served. Dark bread slathered in Irish butter on the side. Yes, please! And some potatoes in the background.
For Dublin dining, my dinner partner opted for local lamb, perfectly cooked and wonderfully succulent. Don’t forget the potatoes!
The only disappointment was the restaurant for which I had the most hope, Dylan McGraths’s Taste At Rustic . Dylan is an award winning chef, highly regarded in Ireland. He was the owner of Mint, a Michelin one star restaurant which was forced to close as a result of the economic downturn in 2008. His response in 2010 was to open Rustic Stone, a restaurant that features seasonal, local produce. He has several other restaurants including Raw, Brasserie Sixty6, Fade Street Social and Taste at Rustic where we ate.
I mentioned this experience in a previous post. No need to beat a dead horse with this less than stellar review.
Dining in Killarney
Taking the train from Dublin to Killarney, I opted to pick up a bottle of water and a vegetarian sandwich at one of the station’s vendors. The sandwich was very good, and it was a good move. The food options on the train were very limited. While some train travel offers a dining car and good meal options, the train to Killarney did not.
Once we arrived in Killarney, time was tight. The TBEX Conference started early each morning, with speakers and workshops, followed by networking sessions. Mornings we dined at the Brehon Hotel where we enjoyed a stellar breakfast. I fell into the habit of ordering perfectly poached eggs with a bit of sautéed spinach, and indulging in some fruit and a scone from the buffet. All this was included in the price of the room.
Lunches in Killarney were generally catered as part of the conference. They always offered a fish option, for which I was very thankful.
Evenings were a confluence of social events and networking. The only free night outside the conference schedule was the first night where we visited the Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar and Larder, for excellent food and an Irish Whiskey tasting (see previous post).
Failte Ireland and TBEX hosted an excellent conference. The opening event was held at the Killarney racetrack, where we were treated to an array of local food vendors including local whiskey distillers, bread makers, dairies, and more importantly, oysters!
Glenbeigh oysters were the star of the opening evening festivities, in my humble opinion! Photo by Charlotte Coneybeer on Unsplash
We wandered through the stables, where the purveyors were stationed in the horse stalls, sampling, drinking and eating. Glenbeigh Shellfish, a County Kerry based seafood vendor, naturally caught my eye.
Glenbeigh Shellfish is a family run business raising Cromane Mussels, Pacific (Gigas) & Native Flat Oysters, Local Wild Cockles & Periwinkles. They are located in Glenbeigh between Cromand and Rossbeigh on the scenic Ring of Kerry and Wild Atlantic Way, on the southwest coast of Ireland. Their shellfish comes from from Cromane in Castlemaine Harbour and from west Cork.
The company was founded 1994 by Noel and Patricia Riordan, a husband and wife team. Noel and Patricia stock native Irish Flat Oysters sourced from Fenit Harbor in Tralee Bay. It’s a rare species only available from October to February (to protect the oyster stock). The oysters are particularly precious in that they are natural oysters, farmed. Were these oysters to disappear, there is nothing to replace them. They are truly a culinary resource. Should you get to Ireland, track down these oysters. They are worth the hunt.
To guide you in your culinary quests, TasteKerry promotes native foods in County Kerry and offers a downloadable app that guides the visitor through a variety of local food specialties.
But back to the oyster story.
Noel and Patricia brought their marvelous oysters. Most of the oysters are exported to France and Spain. I was told that in Ireland they are largely an unknown resource.
Beautiful, fresh, briny, cool oysters from Tralee Bay. Platter after platter of freshly harvested oysters. Let’s just say I had dinner in that stall that night, compliments of Glenbeigh Shellfish!
***
One of our last evenings we met up with a blogging group at a Hobbit Middle Earth themed pub called The Shire. The chance to share an evening with some of the special and fascinating people at this conference was truly priceless.
Old and new friends In Killarney, Ireland, from TBEX.
Meeting people while traveling is special. You are bonded by an exotic locale and the traditional means of connecting often aren’t relevant. Instead, one tells stories, travel stories, and through these adventures we find our commonalities and share our dreams.
May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
I had considered writing a long post, about all the different oysters I’ve tried at various places. I’ve conscienciously jotted down all the names and my thoughts on each. But let me simply cut to the chase.
There is always a trade off between price, ambiance and quality. I love a dive bar with great food. I love to save a bit of money, particularly on the road. But there are times when the most upscale, seemingly expensive establishment is the way to go. And it may be no more expensive than many other options.
After nearly a week of smoke and heat, combined with stale cooking odors and no sleep, I desperately needed some self care, and for me that often involves a good meal. I’d scoped out the seafood restaurants in town and had at least a mental list of those that I’d like to try if they worked into my itinerary.
YEW Seafood + Bar was one of them. And it just happened to be located in the Four Seasons, just across the way from the Gallery with the Monet exhibit. And it just happens to be wonderfully air conditioned and a refuge from the smoke outside.
The downstairs lobby is busy with people coming and going. An escalator leads up to the main lobby, and tucked discreetly off to the side is YEW. Their mantra:
Modern. Coastal. Social.
Yew’ll be hooked.
And hooked I am.
Oysters at YEW Seafood + Bar, Four Seasons, Vancouver BC
I sat at the bar (what’s new!) and perused the menu. But of course, oysters to start. If this is to be a decadent take-care-of-myself-luncheon, it calls for oysters.
Six perfect oysters with lemon and mignonette. I need this. I feel the soot and the heat that have settled in my throat. But the cool brininess is taking over, one oyster at a time, and life is feeling good again.
It’s beautiful; it’s cool in the restaurant. The bartender is friendly and helpful without being intrusive. The restaurant has the hum of a well run, happy establishment.
It’s not inexpensive, but not overly expensive either. Either way, on this hot, smokey day, I do not care. It gives me respite from that nasty condo where I am supposed to sleep.
After six perfect oysters, leaving is still not on my agenda. I’m hungry and it’s hot and smokey outside.
I order a Salade Nicoise.
Salade Nicose for me is both health food and comfort food. It has many of my favorite elements: greens, eggs, green beans, Mediterranean olives, potatoes, and of course tuna. Perhaps a hint of anchovy. To sing, it needs to have the ingredients drawn together with just the right touch of richness and tang in the dressing. Each item has to shine, yet happily compliment all the others.
This salad can be bold and peasanty, or more elegant and refined.
The Four seasons version of the salad arrives. It is beautifully constructed and arranged. It falls somewhere between the peasant version (which I usually make at home) and Riviera elegance. I dip my fork into the greens.
Perfection.
Salade Nicoise, Four Seasons, Vancouver BC
The egg is perfected boiled, a bit on the soft side; the black olives are pitted and not too salty; and just the smallest bit of perfect white anchovy is interspersed in the greens.
Four large pieces of barely seared tuna sit atop the salad.
I realize I am starved. With each bite, I get another combination of lovely ingredients, prepared and presented perfectly. The quality of the tuna is outstanding It’s so fresh, and fork tender. I consider repeating this meal every day until I leave for Whistler.
The perfect end to the perfect lunch at Yew, Four Seasons, Vancouver
I finish off lunch with an espresso with lemon peel. Just the way I like it. It’s real espresso, done right.
Life is good again.
I love nice surroundings. I am comfortable there. I recall the vast sitting areas in the Madrid Ritz with the glass ceiling high above; the (formerly) shabby chic of the Algonquin; the grounds overlooking the Aegean at Lagonissi, where I spent many a summer.
Then it hits me.
Hard.
I haven’t done this for a while. Since, well, cancer.
This simple meal speaks volumes to me. About my life trajectory, my expectations and my experiences of recent years.
The stock market and real estate market tanked, just as I was starting my first round of treatment. I went from a paper net worth of millions, to not so much. Out of fear and a need for cash for cancer treatment, I pulled money from the market. My investment advisor fired me. I realized later that he didn’t make a commission on anything that sat in cash (and his “firing” me was probably illegal). I should have known that, but at the time I was consumed with a diagnosis of incurable cancer. I faced an uncertain future on so many levels. The antics of my investment advisor who had just lost half of my portfolio were hardly my major concern.
Like most cancer patients, I felt helpless. Helplessness over the uncertainty of the entire situation; helplessness over the outcome of treatment and the after effects of the drugs; helplessness over the mounting costs; helplessness as the tech creeps walked off with my hard earned intellectual property.
Sitting in the Vancouver Four Seasons having this perfect meal, I realize that I deserve many more perfect meals. I deserve a different life trajectory than the one of recent years.
A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions. – Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr.
The Price of Perfection
I also realized that by “indulging” in this perfect meal, it cost me no more than many not so perfect meals of late. Some of the establishments that I visited pitched dollar oysters, then did a bait and switch. The type of oyster offered for a dollar was hardly a Kumamoto. I often ended up with a plate of very mediocre oysters that cost me nearly as much as this perfect lunch.
So where’s the moral in the story? To paraphrase the famous Cyndi Lauper song:
“And girls they wanna have lunch Oh girls just want to have lunch…”
Preferably at the Four Seasons.
To the Four Seasons Vancouver and Yew, my heart felt thanks on many levels!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
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CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
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