I feel disconnected; disbelief. I am floating in a sea that I don’t recognize. There is a mental and physical heaviness, a sluggishness that dominates the day to day. An awkwardness that was never present before. I want to disconnect, not face the reality that my great legs are not so great; my waist carries too much girth; I am easily winded. I order loose clothing and I’ve had to go up a size in jeans.
Whether it’s scars from surgery, body parts that have been removed, loss of hair, weight gain or weight loss, body image is a common theme among cancer patients.
I know what to do. This is one instance where I do know the cure. I simply need to get moving again. Unlike two people currently in my network who are facing active treatment without a sure cure. Or perhaps without any cure.
For this moment, I am grateful for my relative health. I know to be here, now. Be grateful for this day, this moment in time where all is well. I also know what my body needs and I’m capable of providing it, even if I’ve shunned this effort for some time now.
How did this happen? I’m part jock (not necessarily a good one, but still…). I’ve always played sports. Squash. Tennis. Hiking. Skiing. Kayaking. And now I find myself overweight and out of shape. How did this happen to me?
Looking back three years, it was the last round of drugs and steroids that stayed my cancer but destroyed my joints. I hit my low point when I went walking one day and I was in such pain, I was afraid I wouldn’t even be able to crawl (or even roll!) back home. I finally just gave up and laid on the bed with a bag of potato chips.
This was the absolute nadir.
One: I never eat potato chips, and
Two: I always prefer moving to lying around.
A hip replacement meant rehab (yay!) but even with a serious effort in the gym on a daily basis, problems remained. The orthopod offered shots that might or might not work. Drugs to mask the pain. He shrugged. It wasn’t his mobility and quality of life that was at stake.
So I started yoga for rehab, rather than more drugs. The yoga was torture. I was tight, weak and wobbly. I was still in breath-taking pain. But I stuck with it and one year later, I had realized some significant progress. I learned stretches to keep my body more limber and twists that are nothing short of miraculous. Now I travel with yoga mat, balls, strap and blocks.
Many people haven’t heard about yoga balls. They are always on my must pack list. These dense, hard balls allow me to reach those deep muscles that hurt and cramp, and need massage to unknot. Wherever I go, my yoga balls go with me. Often, they sleep with me, to reach a sore spot in my shoulder or on my ribs.
The crux of my getting so out of shape was one simple issue: I had gotten out of the habit of being active.
Prior to this, if you had told me that activity was a habit, I simply would not have understood. Even with cancer, I was always moving, as much as I could be. I pushed myself to work out through chemo, to my enormous benefit. But this time, even I couldn’t overcome the after effects of the drugs and the not so successful surgery. The pain and disability started a downward spiral that fed on itself. I had established a new, not so good habit of inactivity.
The secret of your future is hidden in your daily routine.
– Mike Murdock
These words are true on so many levels. Our daily habits set the stage for our daily lives. Regardless of locale, we all travel with ourselves, our thoughts and our habits. I’ve been on the road over a month now, and it’s time to really take charge of my routine. Routine will transcend geography, if I can just get it in place.
Vashon Island Ferry Walk
I started a daily walk on Vashon Island. It included a fairly steep hill down to the ferry landing and back, about 3 miles altogether. Every day. Rain or shine. More or less. (I’m not a native Seattle-ite and gray drizzle does faze me.)
I recently volunteered for a golf tournament/fundraiser for Cancer Pathways and I noticed that my trusty khaki skort is getting a bit looser. I’m still over weight and out of shape, but at least its moving in the right direction.
Now, in Magnolia on the north side of Seattle, I walk every morning.
Magnolia has wonderful views of Puget sound. Directly south I can see Vashon Island where my friends are settling into their soon to be renovated house.
The Seattle Space Needle
If I head southeast, I turn the corner to see the Space Needle.
The Cascades
And to the west, lies Bainbridge Island and the Cascades. This picture was taken early one morning as the sun hit the mountains and the fog had yet to lift from the lower elevations. This is my daily route and I love every step.
This walking routine was partly propelled by a wonderful and unexpected gift: a fabulous set of walking sticks from Diana Oliver at Urban Poling. The company is based in Canada, and they are on a mission to get people moving, one step at a time. This is their vision:
“We envision a healthy future founded on prevention. We envision achieving physical and mental well-being by being active. We envision a future of feeling good, from the inside out. Now we ask you, why wait, the future begins today.”
Today indeed!
The founders, Mandy Shintani and Diana Oliver bring talent and enthusiasm to their comittment to health. Mandy has a Masters in Physical Therapy. Diane’s background is in business, sales and fitness. Together they make the perfect team. And very seriously, the perfect product.
Urban poles use 90% of your muscles, burn more calories, increase core strength and help with balance. The company warns that you should start slowly, using the sticks for just a third of your first foray. Listen to them! This is more of a workout than you may think!
I am using their Activator poles to start and I LOVE them. This is an easy way to add some tempo and pace to your walk, along with more of an all over body work out. On a psychological level, they also provide a purpose for my foray. I like the intentionality of walking with these poles. I know that I am going walking for me. It’s a gift to body and mind, just as meditation is a gift to my well being.
Walking is such a natural and marvelous exercise. You can do it anywhere and everywhere. Think seriously about adding a pair of Urban Poles to your life! A simple tool that brings with it meaningful motivation. Check them out. And thanks to Urban Poling for offering a 10% discount to my readers by using the code PWCRT.
And most of all, thank you Urban Poling for a totally serendipitous gift that is helping and motivating me to reclaim my life, one step at a time.
This infographic is compliments of LiveandDare.com
Another critical part of my routine which has slipped a bit lately is meditation. A fit mind is a fit soul.
I learned to meditate from one of the Maharishi’s students. (The Maharishi, you may recall, brought Transcendental Meditation-TM- to the west and taught the Beatles and Beach Boys the method). There is often some confusion around TM. It has no religious overtones. It is simply a technique that utilizes a mantra to keep your mind focused and not drifting. It stills “monkey mind” so you can benefit from the meditation.
The medical benefits of mediation are well documented. Harvard, Blue Cross/Blue Shield and countless others have studied the remarkable advantages of integrating a meditation habit into your life. For me, it has been life changing.
Between a healthy diet and a still mind, I face the day with greater patience and clarity. I am more grounded and less reactive. I am much more present.
I normally mediate first thing in the morning; and then mid afternoon. I’ve re-instituted the morning meditation fairly successfully. Now to schedule the afternoon session.
I am reminded of the old Zen saying:
“If you don’t have time to meditate for 15 minutes …Then you need to meditate for an hour!”
This speaks to our busy minds and our perception that busy-ness some how equates to accomplishment. Except it doesn’t. My best ideas and insights have come from being still, from meditating, rather than mindlessly doing.
Adding another 20 minute session sounds as if it should be easy, and I know the benefits are very real. So I will make it happen.
But I also need more hours in a day. When I’m traveling, in addition to exploring, filming and writing, I also need to plan ahead.
In Seattle, I’m looking at trips to Port Townsend, the Space Needle, possible a food festival, a sea based aviation festival, the Art Museum, paddling through the locks, Dragon Boat racing, several seafood restaurants, the farmers markets…the list goes on.
I also have several likely trips coming up (Vancouver; POSH; Pasadena for the NASA #GrandFinale; Sedona; Austin; Ireland; Houston to Florida via New Orleans; and finally, Cuba) and each needs reservations, research and planning so I can write, film and share.
Plus I am trying to figure out where to spend Christmas. (Suggestions and invitations welcomed!)
Overall, amidst the changing landscape and relative chaos, it’s the adventure of a lifetime. My lifetime. And I’m enormously grateful to have the interlude to simply travel and explore.
But my quality of life is diminished with my current state of unfit.
Fitness speaks to the state of my mind and body, and both are essential. If there is one thing I’ve learned in the last several years, it is how critical quality of life is. This is a lesson every cancer patient learns.
***
I don’t often write about the difficult aspect of dealing with cancer and all its after effects. I tend to gloss over them and just make things happen. People tend to think I have it all figured out. I don’t. Especially when it comes to cancer.
As I mentioned earlier, I have two friends that are on my mind just now. Both have metastatic disease, and if I’m honest, chances are neither will make it long term. I am but one blood test away from a similar fate. I need to be healthy; to live now, and to be fit for anything that may come.
Setting up a habit for health isn’t a slam dunk. Getting on a healthy diet; finding the tools for stress management; staying socially connected with supportive people and getting fit means keeping four demanding and fairly complex balls in the air at all times. Plus what works today may not work tomorrow. Keeping it all together with a changing schedule while traveling isn’t always easy. There is not an instant fix.
If I could leave you with one thought, it’s just start somewhere. Just do one little thing. Park further from the store and walk. Walk the dog, chase the cat. Then do it again. Start a new habit of movement and celebration, just for you! And give yourself a great big gold star!
* I’ve had several people ask if they could donate to CancerRoadTrip. Rather than donate, shop!
I have affiliate marketing relationships with a number of vendors. If you buy a product or service through any of the affiliate links on this site, I will get a small commission, at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog, writing and travel of CancerRoadTrip. This never impacts my reviews of products–If I like something, I’ll say why. If I don’t I’ll detail that as well.
Plus sometimes I can offer special pricing on some items. The code for Urban Poling–PWCRT– will save you 10%. I throughly recommend these poles. If you buy some, let me know what you think.
I appreciate your following. Thank you for your support.
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
NASA was a mainstay of my youth. The Gemini Program. Apollo. #TheRightStuff. Walking on the moon.
And now, Space: The Final Frontier. (Music please.) And NASA is exploring it for our benefit.
I applied to be a part of the NASA social media outreach program which allows bloggers to attend some of their (amazing) events to help get word out about their missions, findings and plans. But never in a million years did I think I’d get invited to NASA’s #GrandFinale! #GrandFinale celebrates the end of Cassini’s 20 year expedition to Saturn which has generated information that fundamentally challenges our knowledge base about the universe around us.
In case you’re not up to speed on NASA’s Cassini and the exploration of Saturn, here’s a short overview:
Why does this matter? From NASA, here’s a nine point summary for how this impacts our perception of our world, here, now today and as we move forward:
#1 Potentially habitable ocean worlds exist even in the Saturn system — 10 times farther from the sun than Earth.
Saturn and her moons include elements that can support life including water and a heat source other than the sun. This is a stunning revelation that changes the way we think about life on other planets. Previously, it was thought that Enceladus (Saturn’s 6th largest moon) was too small to retain the heat needed to create liquid water. But with the discovery of intense geologic activity and the presence a global liquid water ocean, Enceladus is now one of the most promising places in our solar system to search for present-day life beyond Earth.
#2 Weather, climate and geology of other worlds lends insight into our understanding of the Earth.
Would you believe that Titan, Saturn’s largest moon, shares sand dunes, volcano mounds, flash floods and other earthy similarities with our own planet? How are these features formed? What about weather patterns? How are they similar or dissimilar from Earth? What can we learn from each?
#3 Cassini gives us a portal back into time, where we can watch the physical processes that formed our solar system.
The formation and destruction of the materials in Saturn’s rings lends insight into the physical formation of our universe. The study of complex carbon chemistry on Titan provides a look at Earth in its early development. In learning about other worlds, are we perhaps privy to a portal in time, to a time from our past, and perhaps to our future?
#4 The length of Cassini’s mission provided a long term look at weather patterns and other planetary trends and changes.
A twenty year mission, with thirteen of those years spent in close proximity to Saturn, provided unimaginable information into another planet and its eco-system. We learned that the changing colors in the northern hemisphere coincided with a seasonal shifting of the rings to the south (see photos to the left). Dunes around the equatorial region resemble those in Namibia and the Sahara. Seasonal variations bring methane rainstorms, just as the American Southwest experiences its monsoon season. All this and so much more over thirteen years gave scientists an unimaginable collection of data to investigate, explore and understand.
#5 Each of Saturn’s 53 moons is unique.
From Phoebe which was most likely captured by Saturn’s gravitational pull from outer space, to the canyons of Dione, each orbiting moon is a world unto itself. While much exploration is still needed, the richness and diversity of Saturn’s moons is endlessly intriguing. Will any be capable of supporting life? Life as we might understand it?
#6 The complexity of Saturn’s rings is made more apparent, answering some questions and generating many more.
Saturn’s Rings from Cassini Courtesy NASA/JPL-Caltech
There are many ways that rings may form around a planet. Moons, moonlets, meteorites, ice particles lifted by electrostatic charges…Cassini has opened the door to any array of information previously unknown. In doing this, still more questions are raised.
#7 Luck and chance challenges NASA scientists to rethink their view of the solar system.
Many of the discoveries were serendipitous. The chance to observe the planet over a period of more than a decade allowed scientists to discover consistencies and inconsistencies in the planet’s behavior. These raised new questions and opened the doors to new avenues of inquiry that no one had foreseen.
#8 A staggering achievement of technical complexity and human interaction.
Cassini mission to Saturn Courtesy NASA/JPL-Caltech
The Cassini mission is an international collaboration involving three space agencies, with 19 countries contributing hardware to the flight system. A project spanning nearly 20 years, Cassini stretched human creativity to discover new ways to use the flight’s existing engineering systems to explore Saturn and her moons. For example, radar was used to measure the depth of Titan’s seas. Instruments that were intended to sample Titan’s atmosphere did double duty as they were re-tasked to sample the plume of Enceladus. Creativity joined engineering to produce information on a new world.
#9 Beauty and Wonder
“Wonder is the beginning of wisdom.” -Socrates
Courtesy NASA/JPL-Caltech
Saturn and her rings have long captured our earth bound imaginations. Curiosity and wonder, combined with technology and cooperation, have led to amazing new information about the worlds around us. May it lead us to wisdom as well.
The views and findings from Cassini are staggering. Visit the NASA site for much more information, and stay tuned for more articles, tweets, instagram and Facebook postings as September 14-15, 2017, date for the Cassini #GrandFinale, approaches.
All pictures Courtesy NASA/JPL-Caltech
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
My forays into farmer’s markets continues and Seattle has numerous venues, with vendors offering everything from berries to fish. I won’t be able to visit them all, but I do want to share a few highlights. Even if you’re not a market person, the sheer variety of some of the foods, especially at the Ballard Market, are worth checking out. Throw in some food stands and a bit of music, and you have the makings of a very pleasant morning.
Farmer’s markets have become increasingly popular across the country. Part of this is the “grow local” movement, part a quest for ever more exotic, fresh foods, and part a slowly building awareness of the nutrition (or lack thereof) in our mass distributed food sources.
The nutritional content of our food supply has diminished over the years, with foods being bred to be more palatable, pest resistant, and for their travel-ability. In many of our food markets, particularly the larger ones (Whole Foods and Trader Joes included) the number of types of fruits has diminished enormously over the years. Jo Robinson, author of Eating on the Wild Side: The Missing Link to Optimum Health points out that in 1910, more than 15,000 apple varieties were raised in the U.S. Today, only 500, or 3% remain. That may sound like an ample number, but in reality, 9 out of 10 apples we eat comes from just a dozen varieties. These are low nutrient cousins of the wild species that used to dominate apple production. Wild apples have 475 times more phytonutrients than our currently mass produced varieties. While the adage “an apple a day keeps the doctor away” may have had some validity in the past, today’s apple crops do not live up to their history.
This is why it may pay to be smart about knowing the source of your food, and just what you are eating. And that is where farmer’s markets come in.
As a self confessed, long time foodie, I am always delighted when I try something new or outstanding. And the local farmer’s markets did not disappoint.
Raspberries at Ballard Market
Did you know that organic raspberries can be Autumn Bliss, Caroline, Cascade Delight, Cascade Gold, Malahat, Munger, Nantahala, or Tulameen? And blueberries can be Aurora, Blue Crop, Duke, Elliot, Liberty, or Reka. Blackberry varietals may include Chester, Obsidian, and Marionberry. And then there is the Tayberry, a new fruit to me. It’s an intensely flavored, raspberry-like berry.
Berries are a solid anticancer food, and when berry season rolls around, sign me up. Growing up, there was a pick your own strawberry farm in town. People would go early in the morning and pick their own berries. So sweet, so perfect. Perhaps it’s this decades old link that keeps me coming to farmer’s markets, because nothing compares to a perfectly ripe fresh berry.
Berries–local and wild–are precious; transient; and seasonal. In the days when I still ate sugar, I would fry fresh chocolate ravioli (in coconut oil) stuffed with a marscapone cheese mixture, topped with (homemade) vanilla ice cream and fresh berries. Seriously. OMG. Those were good!
But they would have been even better with the berries I picked up at the market yesterday. The blueberries (forgive me, I’m not sure what variety they are) are stunning. Their deep, rich, slightly sweet flavor is nothing short of breathtaking. If you find yourself in Seattle during the summer, it’s worth a visit to one of the markets just for the berries.
Pike Place Market
The most famous of the Seattle farmer’s markets is naturally Pike Place Market, which has an elaborate labyrinth of shops that extend several levels down. In addition there are the obvious and stunning stalls on the main level, with flowers, fish, vegetables and other wares. But don’t overlook the smaller, local markets. Here many artisanal products appear.
At Ballard Farmer’s Market, I sampled a wide variety of honeys and bought a basket of fresh, mixed mushrooms including some unusual Blue Oysters. Add in a few peaches (to go with the berries), a gluten free pistachio-honey scone, and I am one
Wild mushrooms at the Ballard Market
happy camper. In addition to the market, a seafood festival was also being held that evening. Tickets for salmon, crab, wine and beer, as well as stages for entertainment were part of the market scenery on this particular day. Plus, of course, all the shops and restaurants that line the streets.
And each and every market boasts spectacular fresh cut flowers.
Flowers from the Magnolia Market
In Seattle, certain vendors will be at numerous markets, but each market is unique in it’s ambiance and blend of foods and services. This link provides a comprehensive list of area markets, locations and times.
Parking can be difficult at some of the market locations; pay parking is often reasonable on market day, so don’t overlook that as a possibility. But most of all, plan to hang around a bit, talk to the vendors and think about where your food comes from. Because it does matter.
Vashon Island has the reputation of being rural and sleepy. It is, but there is also great depth and quality in some of the local offerings. Here are three things to do on Vashon Island that amused me!
Vashon Island: The Farmer’s Market
The Vashon Island Farmer’s Market is held on Saturdays. It’s an eclectic, small town mix of local produce, music, beautiful jewelry, a food truck and several spectacular finds. Plus a local brewery. Plus tamales. Plus….
I love markets, so be prepared to visit a few with me. Markets give insight into the history, geography and culture of an area. They provide access to good fresh, locally grown food. And the people are great. They are all pursuing a passion.
Years ago in New York, there used to be a Forbes museum of people’s collections. Collecting is a passion, and I love people’s passions. I’ve encountered the mapaholics (like myself who are fascinated by the intersection of cartography and history); aviation junkies (luckily I could only afford one plane); a man with a passion for antique Thai coconut scrapers in form of rabbits; passions for jewelry; and on.
The Forbes Museum was very quirky. The collections ranged from somewhat frivolous (tin, cast iron, and paper toy boats) to sublime (think one of the world’s largest collections of Faberge Eggs). I believe these collections now rotate through various museums and the Forbes building. I bring this up because people of passion are great fun. You don’t need to share their passion to feel and enjoy their focus and energy. And the people who sell their wares at farmer’s markets are passionate about their crafts.
Truffles at the Vashon Island Farmer’s Market
The Vashon market yielded some great finds and wonderful conversations. The Mighty Truffle Dessert Company is one of the finds.
I’m not a big chocolate lover (it’s a character flaw, I know) but I do enjoy an occasional indulgence and this chocolate company has the delicious answer. They are wonderfully, maniacally obsessed with sourcing their food products and it shows. Not only have they created an organic, gluten free truffle, but it has no processed sugar. The raspberry truffles are especially luscious, but I enjoyed all the flavors. Look for the Mighty Truffle. Mighty good stuff!
Vashon Island Farmers Market
Several other stands were real stand outs. The goat milk feta offered at one stand was simply too good for words (think feta, watermelon, and arugula salad). And another vendor-Harbor Home Farm- offered carefully crafted semi-soft goat cheeses such as camembert. Mid Life Crisis Farm (gets my vote for best name) offers a wide selection of grass fed meats and meat products.
But it’s the goat cheese that makes my heart go pitter patter. I am a total sucker for goat cheese. I fell in love with it in France as a child, and have carried the preference with me my entire life. I remember one restaurant in Paris that would bring a massive, round woven flat basket to the table, laden with goat cheeses. This was my desert of choice, even back then.
Given this childhood culinary education, I had no choice but to become aware of and interested in food. I never ate much junk or fast food, but I used to consume a lot of (too much) dairy and red meat. I grew up in an area with local farms, so I didn’t really think much about the source of my food. As I got older, I didn’t pay much attention to ingredients in the few processed foods (such as yogurt, soups and tomato sauces) that I did buy. Now, after a cancer diagnosis and a re-education in healthy eating, I read every label, and buy “real food”, as fresh as possible.
My diet these days is vegetable rich and low glycemic. Little to no dairy, sugar, white flour, white rice or white pasta. In changing my eating habits, the hardest part was eliminating the dairy. I felt great, but life without at least some cheese just wasn’t worth living.
But in goat milk products, I found a happy compromise. The cheeses (and yogurt) are characterized by smaller, easier to digest molecules, and are less inflammatory than cow’s milk products. So you can imagine my surprise and delight to find not one, but two goat milk product stands at the Vashon Market.
Chelo at the Vashon Island Farmer’s Market
I didn’t get to the tamales which sounded great (but a higher glycemic choice, so I passed) but Chelo is another must visit stand. The Chelo cashew creme product line was created by Vashon nutritional nutritional therapist Chelo Gable, as a cheese alternative for offer her dairy sensitive clients. It’s rich, full of flavor. From her website:
“The process of making the cultured cashew crème begins with adding live cultures to whipped cashews, then allowing it to ferment for 2-3 days. During this time the beneficial bacteria consumes the sugars in the cashews and transforms the texture and taste from light and sweet to thick and savory. Any combination of herbs and spices can be added to infuse flavor into the whipped cashews.”
The herb combinations Chelo offers are beyond delicious. I’m heading back for more of the cilantro-garlic this weekend, to put on top of some fresh salmon. And I think I’ll pick up some asparagus from one of the local farm stands too. If you don’t like to shop, Vashon Fresh will deliver to your door.
Vashon-Maury Island was named by Captain George Vancouver of the British Navy in 1792 when he sailed into Puget Sound on the Discovery. He named the island after his friend captain James Vashon, who would later become an Admiral. The first American expedition in 1841 was led by Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, to make detailed maps of the area. Wilkes identified Maury Island as distinct from Vashon and named it after one of his surveyor’s Lt. Williams L. Maury.
Vashon-Maury Island
Vashon’s early history is not well documented. It was settled 6-10,000 years ago by native inhabitants. After the European and American discoveries, the 1880’s brought boat building to Dockton on Maury Island. Dockton was a residential neighborhood that supported the Puget Sound Dry Dock Company, which was the largest ship yard and dry-dock on the west coast from 1892 to 1909. As ship building in Dockton declined, a cannery was built, but this also eventually closed as the volume of salmon decreased. Agriculture was a dominant industry as well, with steamers, and later ferries, providing access to mainland markets. In 1918, Maury was officially connected to Vashon, and today Vashon often refers to both islands, which are the largest in the Puget Sound south of Admiralty Inlet.
Vashon Island beach
Vashon has numerous beaches. At low tide, some offer extended areas to walk. Since I’m trying to get more exercise into my life, and my excuse du jour, lacking a sport, is walking. And my motivation to walk is to take pictures.
There are a number of good beaches for walking and exploring. KVI beach offers great walks. Lisabeula Park is a great place to launch a kayak. Perhaps the most visited beach is the one in Point Robinson Park, where the lighthouse resides and where the whales gather at the point of the island.
The Point Robinson Lighthouse, built in 1887 and on the National Historic Register, is officially on Maury Island. The beach that wraps around the point offers excellent walking opportunities and incredible views. It’s also one of five lighthouses in the state of Washington where visitors can stay in the original lighthouse keeper’s buildings. At Point Robinson, there are two keeper’s accommodations for rent.
Point Robinson Lighthouse cottage is for rent on Vashon
Lighthouses are interesting structures. They’re usually located in fairly isolated locales, at the tip of a point or on a blustery cliff. The Point Robinson Lighthouse sits at the tip of Maury Island and provides a pulsing light that guides boats past it’s point.
Point Robinson Lighthouse, Vashon Island
Each lighthouse has a distinctive light pattern so that’s it’s easily identifiable from the sea. The lighthouses were strategically located along Puget Sound so as to provide guidance, but not overlap each other’s range of authority. The Point Robinson Lighthouse is strategic in that it marks a 90 degree turn in navigation for passing ships. These days, the original glass prism is replaced by modern technology. But the need for visual navigation remains, even with technology and gps. After all, have you ever followed Google maps only to find yourself on a strange path, or utterly lost?
For an island in Puget Sound close to high tech Seattle, you would think that communications and information would flow freely. Not on Vashon. It’s a throw back in many ways.
I kept seeing garden tour signs and handouts. Dates were hard to find. Was there a website? Finally the gentleman at the Hinge Gallery pointed me to the arts center for more information and hopefully ticket sales.
The Vashon Center for the Arts is a beautiful building. It sits at a four way stop intersection, south of town and north of the Tahlequah Ferry landing. It’s fairly new and an amazing addition to this island.
The reception desk at Vashon Center for the Arts
The reception desk inside the main entry is made from a tree that had to be taken down to build the building. The woodwork is stunning. As is the small but beautifully presented gallery just off the main entry. The building also has a theatre. And garden tour tickets!
The tour is self guided, over two days and takes you to various private gardens on the island, ranging from wild and wooly, to highly refined. And in the background are a variety of views, of Puget Sound, of Seattle and of the beaches.
My personal favorite was a fairly eclectic, meticulously crafted garden complete with grecian columns, an asian inspired lantern and a glass gardening shed. The attention to detail, in the materials and in the design was evident.
Vashon Island Garden Tour
All the gardens were different; all were fun; and all were interesting. Area artists display their wares as well, making for a fun afternoon exploring the island and its arts.
I get the sense that while Vashon seems simple, there’s more than meets the eye on this island. Secluded among the rolling hills and rocky beaches, there are numerous people with interesting backgrounds and stories to tell. I recently found out that Jo Robinson, author of Eating on the Wild Side: The Missing Link to Optimum Health lives here, but I don’t think I’ll have time to track her down. It’s just one more reason to come back to Vashon.
More Reading About Vashon Island, Seattle and Environs:
I wrote this about my Apple Watch before I took off on #CancerRoadTrip. And having used my watch for some time now, I continue to be pleased with it. I think the absolute best feature has been being able to answer my phone from my watch while driving. I have an older car without wifi, so my phone doesn’t connect to the audio system. This watch makes that connection for me and that has been invaluable.
Preparing for an indefinite time on the road has meant reassessing much of daily life. What has worked for ages, may not work for today.
My day to day watch, a Bedat isn’t exactly suitable for a road trip. It’s not water proof; it’s too expensive; it’s something I would hate to lose. I decided to integrate my other communications via an Apple Watch, and it’s been a very good experience. I continue to be amazed at the things it does for me.
I do see the irony of having to buy things for a minimalist trip! But how do I manage to write, film, communicate, produce and travel without some serious organization? Not to mention setting up #CancerRoadTrips for others! My Apple Watch is part of the organization.
I’ll put all this together in a download on #CancerRoadTrip packing and planning. But in the meantime, here’s a look at the experience (and Apple has not paid or supported me in any way as of this writing!):
#1 Personal Service
When Apple first opened their retail stores, I wasn’t sure it was a good business move. I mean really, who wants brick and mortar anymore?
I couldn’t have been more wrong. When it comes to technology, the ability to interface with both the salespeople and people via classroom experience is invaluable. The stores create both a cult and a community where help is available, along with every gadget under the sun.
#2 Knowledgeable and Comprehensive Help
I have found the staff to be incredibly helpful. They generally know their product or can find someone who does. With Apple Watch, the sales help made a significant difference in my final product decision. While at the store, I also was able to get an enormous amount of information on my other Apple products, such as using my iPhone7 as a primary point and shoot camera/video option; video stabilization and video drones.
#3 One on One
I had to wait a while, but when a salesperson became available I had their total attention. I learned about the product, got everything set up and was ready to start learning about my new watch purchase when I left the store.
#4 Touch and Feel Matters
Had I ordered my Apple watch from the website I would have made a different purchase decision. The ability to touch and try the actual product is very meaningful. I was able to see the exact color tone of the different finishes, and the look, feel and usability of the different sizes.
#5 Customization Options
Being able to touch and feel the product also meant I could look at the various bands and see how they coordinated with the watch casing. The easy exchangeability of watch bands was an unexpected bonus. This allows me to have some different looks, without adding any bulk or weight to my luggage.
The ability to customize the technology to your personal needs is well thought out, fairly intuitive and easy to use.
#6 Cost Less Than I Expected
Because I was able to try on the various watches and see both sizes, I ended up opting for a less expensive, lighter weight Apple Watch Nike rather than the Space Grey aluminum case that I would have chosen without handling the product. The weight difference was, for me, the deciding factor.
#7 Keeps My Phone More Secure
Being able to make phone calls, reply to messages (and more!) from my watch means that my iPhone stays securely in my purse. With travel theft always a concern, having a low profile way to pick up this information is an unexpected bonus.
#8 Community
Apple fosters a sense of community. The salespeople I dealt with were eager to share their knowledge and never arrogant. Sitting at the table getting my watch set up, I interface with other customers and tech reps who, once again, are truly helpful. And the classes are perfect for moving along the learning curve at an excelerated rate and getting the most out of your purchase.
#9 Entertainment + Convenience
My original reason for getting an Apple watch was simply that I wanted a useable, water proof, not-too- expensive watch for travel. But I found an added bonus: It’s just plain dumb fun. Playing with the various watch faces, I can watch flowers bloom and change Mini Mouse’s coloring. I can go with a minimal face or one with loads of information. And I’ve even re-introduced Siri into my life. She’s gotten much better over time. The sales rep made an interesting note: Siri is cloud based and thus constantly learning. It’s time to give her another try.
#10 Beautiful packaging that was easy to open and understand
The packaging (as always) is simple, elegant and understandable. The set up help is invaluable and a smart customer retention move on Apple’s part. Techie stuff just isn’t an issue. They’ve made the purchase and use of their products both easy and fun. Not necessarily an easy thing to do with consumer technology.
#11 The Antithesis of the GoPro Experience
I might have taken much of this experience for granted had I not had a very different technology experience with GoPro. Two companies offering technology based consumer products with two vastly different approaches. You can read about my GoPro experience here.
Follow up: After returning the GoPro, and experiencing the Apple watch, I decided to focus on really learning the capabilities of my existing Apple iPhone 7 camera before making any more film oriented decisions. Even though the phone has built in video stabilization, I added an DJI OSMO MOBILE after watching a lot of YouTube videos of very compelling film footage made with this combination.
Here’s some quick video that I put together from one of my favorite hikes. This is my absolute favorite Tahoe beach, accessible only by boat or foot. I used my iPhone and the Osmo to film this.
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Puget Sound, Seattle, and Vashon Adventures: Round I
Puget Sound and Seattle (and now Vashon) is an area that has always interested me. Early explorers such as English Captain George Vancouver, who first made contact with the Suquamish Nation in 1792, explored the Seattle area in a search for a Northwest Passage. The idea of a Northwest Passage–an inland waterway that would connect the east coast of the continent with the Puget Sound–was an idea that appeared in maps for many years.
“The Northwest Passage did not exist, and so could not be discovered, until Europeans invented it.”— Ken McGoogan, author of Fatal Passage (2001)
18th century map depicting the search for the Northwest Passage
This exhibit by Princeton University provides great insight into the cartographic history of this fallacious but pervasive geographic fantasy.
Maps, for centuries, were an important information source about the explorations of the world. And their word carried great weight. Think of them as art; as political propaganda; as a magazine; as a web page of what’s hot and new in the universe as it was known at the time.
Imagine how navigating the North American continent would have been dramatically changed by the discovery of such a passage. Imagine the impact on settlement and commerce. The idea held the imagination of many. Well regarded cartographers created imaginary maps, copied each other, and spread the word of such a passage. It would take years for such fantasies to be dispelled.
The settling of the northwest has many chapters. The entrepreneurial persona of the region struck me this week as I explored the Seattle area.
The original Puget Sound white settlers (the Indians pre-dated them by centuries) were an entrepreneurial group of people who founded the region to explore and exploit the rich natural resources. Many years later Boeing was an early innovator in aviation, and the company’s influence on the area, as well as on the history of aviation, has been profound. The daring spirit of original exploration, followed by the early years of aviation, the pilots and the cheering crowds, set the adventurous tone for this town. And more recently tech innovation has found a home on Puget Sound. This history of creative energy makes me wonder if I should reconsider the area for relocation down the road. Living on an island, near a city, has some real allure.
How do I contain my enthusiasm on this topic? If you are a space or aviation enthusiast, this is an absolute must do. If you’re not, go to this Seattle museum and you’ll become one! The 12 acre campus includes an outdoor hangar with a B-17, a B-29, a Concord, and old Air Force One and a total of over 150 planes, plus historic and space memorabilia.
The Entry to Boeing Building 105, Museum of Flight in Seattle
The main museum incorporates Building No. 105, also known as the Red Barn, the original Boeing Factory which was moved from its Port of Seattle Terminal 115 location and restored, and integrated into the museum’s campus. It contains a history of aviation and of Boeing’s evolution and growth.
From the Wright brothers, to the Boeing factory, through the history of both World Wars, memorabilia captures the timeline of aviation discovery and manufacturing.
One of the things I liked best about the Museum of Flight was the emphasis on the human story. Whether it’s the films about the shuttle that explore numerous vantage points of the launch that allow engineers to evaluate the technical aspects of the vehicle’s performance, or the Saturn V rocket, the ultimate story is about the individual men and women and their role in such historic forces.
#TheRightStuff of the original Mercury astronauts
And it’s an incredibly inspiring story, full of risks and ultimately success. From #The Right Stuff to the WASPs, these people made history. And the planes and memorabilia of these historic moment are here.
For example, eighty years ago, Amelia Earhart’s Lockheed Electra went down somewhere in the Pacific. Conspiracy theories abound. Some say she was a secret agent spying on Japanese occupied islands. Others say she and her navigator Noonan were taken prisoner. And still others suggest that she returned to the states, changed her name, and lived in obscurity.
Remains have been found on the remote South Pacific island called Nikumaroro (know as Gardner Island in the 1930’s). At the time Noonan and Earhart might have landed, the island would have been uninhabited.
Amelia Earhart’s Lockheed Electra had numerous modifications for her extended flights. But this plane from the Museum of Flight is the same type and model:
Lockheed Electra from the Museum of Flight, Seattle
It’s a substantial plane, but by modern standards, it is primitive. The bravery it took to undertake the distances and navigation, particularly over water, are not part of our modern day thinking. There was no GPS, and there were no satellite telephones to save the day.
One of the most interesting pieces of aviation history that I picked up was the Mercury 13, (not #The Right Stuff Mercury 7 pictured above), but the thirteen women who went through the identical psychological and physical testing that the Mercury 7 astronauts received. They were Jerrie Cobb, Bernice Steadman, Janey Hart, Jerri Truhill, Rhea Woltman, Sarah Ratley, Jan and Marion Dietrich, Myrtle Cagle, Irene Leverton, Gene Nora Jessen, Jean Hixson, and Wally Funk. You can read more about these amazing women pilots at www.mercury13.com and in the book “Promised the Moon” available on Amazon.
Both World Wars are well represented in the Museum’s collections, with planes from both sides. Triplanes, Biplanes, Mustangs and Corsairs. Zeros and even an Italian Caproni Ca20.
Italian monoplane, Seattle Museum of Flight
The main museum space has planes everywhere. Suspended from the ceiling, on the floor of the pavilion, in pictures and in the flesh. A photo exhibit also offers some beautiful pictures by amateur photographers who capture the passion of flight.
In the hangar, across the street are a B-17, a B-29, a former Air Force One from the Nixon era, a Concord and numerous other visit-worthy planes as well. In addition, you can (attempt to) land the space shuttle in a fun simulator (I crashed twice!). No matter what your age, this is one of those museums that truly has something for everyone. I was delighted to see many dozens of school children at the museum, getting a first had look at the history of aviation. I hope it inspires more than a few of them.
There is too much to comprehend in this Seattle museum. This is only a teaser. For those of you interested in vintage aircraft and aviation history, I’ll be adding a page with some of the pictures from the Museum of Flight (available shortly).
Island Hopping
Map of Puget Sound
Puget Sound is full of islands. I won’t have a chance to get up to the Orcas or the San Juans this trip. Or even to the many more nearby islands.
Ferries are key components of daily transportation in an archipelago of islands. Seaplanes, and simply small aircraft, offer other commuter options. On Vashon Island, the airport is a delightful grass strip, reminiscent of the early strips I flew from back east.
Vashon Island Airport
But these days, I’m not flying and being based on Vashon Island, every foray to the mainland starts with a ferry ride.
Some might see this as a hindrance, but I’m enjoying it enormously. The Vashon ferry offers regular service to Point Defiance (Tacoma) and to Fauntleroy (West Seattle). Passenger (not auto) service is available to Seattle on a few ferries early in the morning and back again at night. But the service is very limited.
Bainbridge Island
Bainbridge, on the other hand, is readily accessible and has been highly gentrified as a result. Multi-million dollar, eco-sensitive housing, restaurants and pricey shops have become the norm in this upscale community.
One person explained the difference between Bainbridge and Vashon as follows: Bainbridge was settled by doctors and lawyers. Vashon was settled by loggers and fishermen. And a few convicts. In many ways, that really does sum up the differences between these two Puget Sound neighbors.
Bainbridge is beautiful, and somewhat quaint, but at this stage of my life, I’ve seen enough perfectly beautiful, outrageously expensive towns. To some extent, they are all the same, regardless of their locale. These days, I’m more interested in the quirky, or something with possibility. I like the energy of the promise rather than the fait accompli; the journey rather than the destination.
But my trip to Bainbridge had an unexpected surprise! I drove up Route 16 from Tacoma and down Route 305, which took me through Suquamish. And in Suquamish, up the road from the Indian casino, is a remarkable museum. The Suquamish Museum.
Walkway to the Suquamish Museum
This stunning modern structure is nestled in the woods. The gardens along the walkway had just been mulched with cedar and the smell rises from the beds. Entering the building, I am directed to the exhibit room.
A pair of breath taking carved figures stand on either side of the doorway:
Carved figure (male) in the Suquamish Museum
Carved figure (female) in the Suquamish Museum
The museum has many fascinating stories to tell. One of the most interesting tales is the history of the Tribal Journeys. I first learned of this from a gentleman at Vashon Suds, the local Vashon island laundromat. He has participated in numerous trips and was getting ready to leave on this year’s trip. He encouraged me to join the trip at one of the stopping points.
These Tribal Journeys span hundreds of miles and can include ocean crossings at various points. This tradition was resurrected for the Washington State Centennial in 1989. Emmett Oliver (Quinault Tribe) brought old growth cedar logs to some of the reservations in the western end of the state, inspiring many to once again carve canoes. As part of the celebrations, numerous tribes, including the Quileutae, Hoh and Elwha, held an intertribal crossing of the sound, from Suquamish to Seattle.
The evening before the paddle, Frank Brown of the Heiltsuk Nation challenged all the Canoe Nations to travel to Bella Bella, his home on the central coast of British Columbia, four years hence. Twenty eight Canoe families answered the call. The Suquamish/Duwamish Raven Canoe made a three week journey of more than 500 miles over open sea.
Each summer, a different Nation hosts the Inter-Tribal Canoe Journey. From the museum here are “The 10 Rules of the Canoe”:
Ten Rules of the Canoe from the Squamish Museum
The Carriers of the Canoe
This amazing carving in the center of the museum’s exhibit room celebrates the Carriers of the Canoe, which include creatures and people, who Indian tradition have it, shape shifted. The two people in the front are Suquamish. Along with the otters, and the ancestors who are also represented in the carvings, these figures represent those that have carried the canoe through time.
This year’s Tribal Journeys schedule is published here. It culminates in a 6 day event, with a public feast on August 5. Visitors are welcomed, although picture taking may not always be possible, given the etiquette of the situation.
The museum underscores the ancient Indian connection to the earth. The theme of water and land is present throughout each and every exhibit, and is lovingly crafted and stunningly presented. Fish sculptures descend from the ceiling and are scooped from a beautifully woven “net”. Baskets seem suspended in mid air in a lit glass cube.
Beautiful Suqamish basketry
I had no idea this museum existed. (Had I thought to combine museums + Bainbridge in a Google search, I would have found it) I saw a sign about a tribal headquarters along the road and decided to follow it. Like many of my adventures, a chance meeting (this time in a laundromat), a sign and (a bit of ignorance), and my curiosity resulted in a wonderful adventure.
The trip to Bainbridge was definitely worthwhile.
Food For Thought on Vashon Island
I found myself chatting with a local shop keeper on Vashon about meditating in Thailand. She’d just returned from several months in Thailand and India, and had a marvelous time. “I wouldn’t hesitate to go to Thailand alone,” she advised me. This was good to hear. So far, I’m not getting a lot of enthusiasm from anyone about going to Thailand, and I cannot understand why. I think I just need to put the idea out there and be patient.
“Trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit.” -Moliere
May Kitchen storefront , with elephants on roof on Vashon Island Main Street
In the meantime, it is dinner time and I’d like to try the local Thai restaurant. May Kitchen and Bar is a very nondescript storefront in “downtown” Vashon. The elephants on the roof with raised trunks are the only real defining feature. And they don’t exactly inspire confidence. Dull beige curtains cover the windows. The place looks lifeless; and it doesn’t open until dinner time. It doesn’t serve lunch. It’s only open Wednesday to Sunday. In short, it screams, go away.
The stunning and unexpected interior of May Kitchen, on Vashon Island
When opening time finally arrives, usually with a few people waiting outside, the door opens. Be prepared. You are about to be transported to another world.
Inside, the space is transformed. Rich carved wood panels line the walls. A bar in the center has seating, which is in high demand since reservations claim the tables long before opening. And for good reason. The food is excellent and beautifully presented.
I ordered more food than I could possibly eat, but I just had to try the papia taud, the spring rolls. And they’re worth trying. Subtle, with a perfectly balanced burst of thai basil and mint, lettuce and finely shredded veggies, topped with fried shallots. And served with a spicy, slightly hot dipping sauce.
Spring rolls, May Kitchen style, Vashon Island
For dinner, I ordered the gaeng khi waan, house green curry with green thai chilies, galangal, lemongrass, thai eggplant & coconut cream with tofu. Other proteins available include chicken and pork.
House Green Curry, May Kitchen, Vashon Island
The attention to detail includes a banana leaf laid across the bottom of the plate for a lovely presentation. The dish was fairly mild, which I enjoyed. I ordered a side of red rice which was the perfect compliment. Leftovers obviously followed me home.
And I can’t wait to go back. I contacted the restaurant to ask a few questions, and when they get back to me, I’ll update this post. In the meantime, put May Kitchen and Bar, located at 17614 Vashon Hwy SW Vashon, WA 98070 to your Seattle area bucket list. Yes, on Vashon Island.
More Reading About Vashon Island, Seattle and Environs:
North from Healdsburg, across 195 to Route 5 North is a spectacular drive. It is a drive where you wear your car, through steep turns, and narrow, tightly winding roads over high hills with no shoulder for safety.
There are more direct routes, but I am not in a hurry to leave this part of the world, although I am ready to get on my way. I consider taking the coastal route, a stunning but slower trip, but I’ve been there, done that. I want to get to Vashon, rest, walk, and explore. The stress since September has been enormous, and I know that I need to set a side some time to simply take care of myself.
Healdsburg to Ashland is about 400 miles, give or take, depending upon your route. My route isn’t the most expeditious, but it’s fun driving and spectacular scenery. I dodge small rockslides, downshift through undulating roads with no shoulder, and generally avoid other drivers. The payoff is a spectacular view as I crest the hills and overlook Clear Lake.
Clear Lake is located north of Calistoga and has started to produce some good cooler climate vineyards of its own. It’s the largest natural fresh water lake in the state (Tahoe is larger, but is located across both California and Nevada) wth 68 square miles of surface water and it’s estimated to be possibly the oldest lake in North America at 2.5 million years old. It’s a mecca for summertime water sports, recreation and fishing. And for the expansion of the wine industry just to the south.
From Clear Lake, Route 20 heads east and feeds into I-5 North. I-5 is a typical interstate, but it traverses some amazing geography. From the relative flatlands in central California to the rolling country further north,
As I head north, it starts to rain at Shasta Lake. The lake is a popular spot to rent a houseboat and fish, play and cruise the waters. Once again, if outdoor activities are your thing, this is a great destination.
As I-5 winds north, the terrain becomes even more hilly and spectacular, even in the drizzle. This is the Siskiyou Mountain Range which feeds into the Rogue River (the river was featured in the film The River Wild), known for its Class III and one Class IV rapids. It teams with wildlife, ranging from bald eagles, osprey, bear, deer, various types of salmon and much more. The summit crests at 4,310 feet. And just to the north in the midst of all this wilderness, an oasis of civilization appears in Ashland at just under 2,000 feet above sea level. The altitude variances give one a sense of how spectacular this scenery is.
William Shakespeare
Ashland is home to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and Southern Oregon University. Gold discoveries fostered settlement in the area, and the resulting development of mills and support industries helped the area grow. In 1887, rail joined Ashland to San Francisco. In 1935, under the direction of Angus L. Bowmer the Oregon Shakespeare Festival was founded. It has become an award-winning and internationally known regional theater company that today hosts a variety of theatre productions.
Alas, on this Sunday, there are no evening shows! I had hoped to catch Julius Caesar, but no such luck. I settle into my room and set out for a walk. It’s after 4pm, and I am starved. I am too early for a dinner, so I look for other options as I cruise the streets of Ashland. Ostras! Tapas and Bottle Shop catches my eye, and I make note. I’ll come back here in just a bit.
The bar is already full, and I take a seat at the last remaining spot on the end. I like to eat at a bar. It’s both personal and impersonal; this service is usually great, and the food is often a bit less pricey. Plus it offers the opportunity to chat with others.
Tapas in Ashland, OR
A couple about my age sits next to me and we start talking. I learn that the gentleman that owns this restaurant is an Olympic Gold Medal Winner (!) who also travels the world coaching white water competitive kayaking.
The owner joins the conversation and we all trade stories. I tell them about CancerRoadTrip and we immediately start sharing tales of cancer in our families and among our friends. This may sound depressing, but it’s not. I actually find that most of us want to talk about these things, but we seldom do. Given the chance, it’s a catharsis and a bond between strangers. It’s all about life and how we manage the difficulties, as well as the triumphs.
Our conversation ranges across a variety of topics. To travel. To wine country tales. My companions at the bar live in Grass Valley, CA and like me, have been in and out of CA wine country for many years. I share my thoughts about living in the Russian River Valley for a month or two off season, and they enthusiastically chime in with ideas.
The bartender interrupts with some specials, including some tempura fried Brussels sprouts. Relatively healthy road food! For $5, a massive bowl of tiny little sprouts appear. I’ll only eat part, but it’s a good dose of cruciferous greens on the road. I also order some mussels, simply steamed in garlic, parsley and wine.
Healthy road food needn’t be too difficult. All the food may not always be organic; you may have to allow for a bit of flour or dairy (as little as possible!); but there are healthy choices to be made. And I find eating at the bar often allows me to graze and select an assortment of reasonable, good food.
After dinner, I walk a bit. I’m tired. Driving the back country of northern California is fun, but it also demands concentration. I’m interested in an early evening, and an early start the next day to Portland, my next stop. I’d like to arrive in time to spend a few hours in the city.
Day 2: Ashland to Portland
Ashland to Portland
Ashland to Portland is about 350 miles. It’s an easy highway drive. The drizzle continues, on and off. The road gains more traffic as Portland nears.
Portland is a town I’d like to spend more time in. This trip it is just an overnight stop. Thanks to excellent navigation from Google (more on navigation in a later post), I easily find the hotel I’d booked the night before. It’s downtown which I hope will give me an opportunity to explore a bit. I realize that there are many different aspects to this city, and I’ll have a limited chance to see them on this stopover.
I settle into the hotel and set off on a quest for some seafood. (This unrelenting theme of food in my life and this blog comes from a childhood of fantastic food. My father had an extensive wine cellar and European trips often centered around wineries, and Michelin restaurants, many of them 2 and three stars. It became a game to try to guess how these magical dishes were created. In time, over the years, this fed into my own cooking and culinary curiosity.)
Downtown Portland is home to many homeless. In my walk around town, I encounter numerous people on the sidewalk and on park benches. One seemingly crazy woman walking ahead of me is accosting people in her path. I slow down and let her move on. Across the way, another homeless person lies on the bench, watching. Homelessness is apparently a serious issue, even a crisis according to local government.
It’s too bad that this makes such an impression. Portland, I know, is an interesting city with many aspects to it. I won’t have the time to explore more on this trip. I’m on a mission to the north.
As evening falls, I realize I probably want to find a place to eat. A nearby seafood restaurant Ringside Fish House got good reviews, and with a little digging, I also found that Monday night was Dollar Oyster Night. Bar food again, this time raw oysters, steamed mussels and a kale salad. All for about $15. Looking ahead, I know I’ll be visiting farmers markets and cooking, and that will bring down my average price for food. So for tonight, I indulge and enjoy.
Day 3: Portland to Vashon
Day 3 on the road
Portland to Vashon is just under 160 miles. It’s early morning, and leaving Portland I watch the long line of commuters heading into the city. Thankfully I am traveling against the commute.
This last stretch is an easy drive. It drizzles, but as Tacoma approaches, the sky opens and the sun streams through. It is a beautiful afternoon.
I take a side excursion to Trader Joe’s. I’m not sure what the story is on the island with regard to food (or prices) and I want to arrive with some basics in tow.
With the car loaded with some fresh veggies and food, it’s Vashon ho! That, of course, includes a ferry ride!
Ferries aren’t glamorous; they are working ships that provide a bridge to otherwise inaccessible land forms. Relying on a ferry to provide connection with another land mass takes one back in time. No bridges, no direct roadways. The ferry tethers the island life to the mainland and so called civilization.
Yet getting away from civilization is what Vashon Island is all about. It’s a rural island, cut off from the bustle of the mainland. Many people are retired; some commute into the terminal in West Seattle, accessed from the north end of the island.
Rush hour on Vashon occurs every time a ferry arrives and disgorges her cargo. A line of cars courses through the main thorough fare. Then it ends. Life is back to island quiet.
For me, Vashon Island is a welcomed stopping point on #CancerRoadTrip. My friends are leaving for Greece and they have left me their house as a way station for my travels. For this, I’m deeply grateful. I need some time to rest and to plan. I need some time to focus on my health once again, after so many months of stress and uncertainty.
Vashon Island is the largest island in Puget sound, about 37 square miles. I enter the island from the south on the Point Defiance-Tahlequah ferry. There is only one main north-south road and I follow it to the north end of the island. Along the way, I see deer; rolling, heavily wooded country side; and signs for the occasional winery. The main town is a block or two in either direction, and has a Thriftway with anything one might need or desire.
I pass through town and find my friends’ Vashon Island home which nestles on a hillside. In the distance one can see the mainland, and between the lush landscape, downtown Seattle appears.
Seattle in the distance
Last night, my first night on Vashon, I slept like I haven’t slept in many, many months. It is quiet on the island. Except for the Seattle nightscape in the distance, softened through a bit of moisture hanging in the evening air, it is dark and it is restful.
“Sometimes the most scenic roads in life are the detours you didn’t mean to take.” ― Angela N. Blount
It is June 9, 2017 and #CancerRoadTrip officially begins.
I awake in the morning to the sound of birds outside, at Vanessa’s house. There are many types of beauty, she reminds me, and indeed there is. And beauty, which is in the eye of the beholder, can be found anywhere, or dare I say, just about everywhere.
It is early, but I am ready to get started. I say my goodbyes and I depart the area that has been home for 20 years. I can always come back, but I’m not sure that that is in the cards. Time will tell.
It’s uncharacteristically cloudy, which brings out the deep green and mauve tones in the mountains, topped with a cap of white snow. And a wave cloud bids me adieu, just as one welcomed me on my very first visit to fly here, over two decades ago. That trip, I had stopped en route from SSA (Soaring Society of America) convention in Seattle, to fly in Minden, one of the world’s top soaring locations. That trip was unworldly. I flew my first high performance plane, and got my first taste of western flying. I vividly remember this amazing wave cloud, that mirrored the western flank of the Sierras from Reno all the way down to Minden. I’d flown some wave before, but I’d never witnessed anything like this meteorological phenomenon. And Tahoe. Well, Tahoe takes everyone’s breath away.
Even after that trip, I never planned to live here. In 1995, after flying in Heber, UT, I was driving west on Route 80 when a sign for Truckee came up. I heard about some long flights from the airport, so I decided to simply stop and stretch my legs. I pulled into the airport, and a stop sign said “WHOA!”. So I stopped. And Les Seabold, a World War II vet who ran the glider operation, asked me if I’d stay for dinner. “And by the way”, he added, “the bunkhouse is $4/night. It’s an extra dollar for a hot shower in the morning.”
So it was I stumbled into Truckee, into the Sierras, and later on, into living in Incline while my plane Whiskey Oscar was based in Minden. I’d later move to Southwest Reno and buy my house of nearly two decades.
All this, and much more, goes through my mind as I head westward. This drive is so familiar-and so beautiful. I have to believe that I’ll drive it again at some point.
Tennis Time! As usual, I’m hiding in the back row.
The drive between here and Vashon is partly reminiscent, and partly new. I’ve driven this stretch before, but every trip has its own set of priorities. For years, there were tennis tournaments and flying forays; then wine clubs and parties throughout Northern California; runs to the Pacific; and cultural, food and business runs to the Bay Area.
This trip is more definitive. It is both an end and a beginning.
***
One of my first stops is Sonoma. I have loved the entire Sonoma Valley since my first trip around 1990. And among my first introductions to the area was Sonoma Mission Inn. Before the property was acquired by Fairmont Hotels, it had a bit of a spare Scandinavian feel, coupled with the amazing spa facilities. It was originally founded by Native Americans who found the underground mineral springs. Since then, it’s been through numerous iterations and upgrades, including recovering from a fire in 1923 and then serving as a convalescent area for soldiers after the World War II. The spectacular spa facilities were added in 1980. The resort has always been a popular destination for well to do San Franciscans (and others). Today it’s absolutely beautiful.
With my back hurting, I seriously considered seeing if I might get in for a massage. Instead, I opted to get out and walk, and see if that (together with the ice pad I had against my back) gave me some relief. So I headed to Cornerstone Sonoma where I could both walk and take some photographs.
I discovered Cornerstone Sonoma when I was re-doing the backyard. It was here that I found “Root”-a magnificent, if funky teak root, with a six foot wing span, standing about four and a half feet high. I’d been looking for something arty for the courtyard. I considered buying something; having something designed; but the cost of either was rather high. So I went on a quest, and part of that quest brought me to Artifact, and to Root.
The idea of Root might seem a bit odd. But he was (is) a magnificent piece of wood. His backside has a butt where the wood feathers in a way that cast magnificent shadows in the evening lighting. Nearly everyone oohed and ahhed once I had him situated on his half ton rock, and lit for the evening.
Artifact, where I found Root, is something of an architectural salvage company. Many of the finds are imported from Asian, and there is a stunning array of unique and arty items. Other stores in the complex offer quirky and attractive wares as well.
The other draw of this little enclave are the amazing gardens. This is what initially drew me here, as I was faced with re-landscaping my yard. The gardens are designed by highly regarded landscape architects/firms/designers and range from the herby to the hallucinogenic. And outside sculpture and art installations wind their way through the various garden vignettes.
One of my favorite is the eucalyptus garden which was partly under construction/maintenance today. But next door is a beautiful walkway to the lily ponds. and beyond that, the ephemeral cactus/veil creation. And next to that, the serene minimalist garden of birch trees and their shadows.
Cornerstone is an interesting collection of creativity, old and new. If you enjoy an eclectic, artistic stop, this is for you. There’s also a restaurant in the “village”, but I opted for the short ride back to Sonoma square for lunch.
***
On the square, people linger, and ducks play in the small series of ponds. On a Friday afternoon the throngs of tourists are mostly absent, and the sleepy sense of a once-off-the-beaten-path place lingers. On one side of the square, the original Spanish Mission sits, looking across the central park. Restaurants and shops line the sides of the small park, and a few people rest and eat in the shade.
Lots of restaurant choices; I opt for a familiar place and order mussels. A relatively quick meal at the bar, and I’m heading north on 121.
Vineyards line the road. Not stopping to explore the winery offerings seems vaguely sacrilegious, but this trip has other priorities. Like a walk on the beach.
Walking helps my back and hip and I am on a mission of sorts to get to the Pacific, and certainly to get healthy again. Dillon Beach is nearby, and I head in that direction. The beach is named after George Dillon, an Irishman who emigrated in 1826. It’s located at the end of Tomales Bay, an area rich in oysters and clams.
Dillon Beach is a great walk. Here is a short video, captured with my iPhone. At the end of the video, around the point, is where Tomales Bay resides.
Tamales Bay is home to numerous fishing operations. Hog Island Oyster, one of my favorite local seafood places, is located down the road a bit. It has an outdoor eating area that’s very casual, with absolutely fresh oysters. Friday nights are shuck your own; Saturday is service. You can reserve a picnic bench/table ahead of time and there are small barbecues if you want to bring additional food. Call ahead for details.
I arrived without a reservation and had quick access to the stand up bar, where I ordered Bourbon BBQ oysters and half a dozen on the half shell. If you like oysters, this is worth a trip. Or if you’re in San Francisco, Hog Island has a restaurant in the Embarcadero that has a more extensive menu including some fantastic sashimi.
I had intended to take a perfect picture of a plate of perfect oysters, but I was hungry, and I dove in without considering you, dear audience. My apologies! Please take my word for the perfection of the briny oysters with the shallot vinegar dressing, against the sounds of the coast.
From Dillon Beach, through spectacular Tomales Bay, I head back towards Healdsburg. I’m actually staying in Windsor which is just a few miles down the road and much more reasonable. If you want to visit this area and think $400+ a night is a bit much, check out Windsor. And in Windsor, check out Tomi Thai for superb Thai (think healthy!) food. I had Salmon with vegetables and some brown rice that was outstanding. This Thai restaurant is now on my permanent list for the area. Along, of course, with Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar, just off the square in Healdsburg.
This part of California has many wonderful memories for me. Among them are some great wine and food parties and experiences, from Hog Island to Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. It occurs to me that I would consider spending a few months here, off season.
***
Morning and it’s time to head north. The hotel offers a good buffet breakfast, but I prefer something healthier. So I head for Healdsburg and the Downtown Bakery and Creamery where I find a mushroom, spinach, herb and goat cheese quiche ($4.95) ; a whole wheat orange scone; and a soy latte. A seat at the breakfast bar lets me look through the window and watch the goings on of the square. After breakfast, a final walk around the square, and it’s time to head north, first to Ashland, then Portland, and finally Vashon.
Click here for some outtakes from this leg of #CancerRoadTrip.
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Electronic retail therapy! In theory, all I need is an internet connection. But in reality, being able to write, film, record, edit and share various social media venues and the website is a bit more complicated. And if it has much of a digital learning curve, I am a bit cautious because time is tight right now. Escrow closes in one week; the house is in the process of going into a series of storage PODS; and I’ve thrown out my back making packing very difficult.
So I’ve reached a compromise where my electronic travel entourage is made of somethings old and somethings new. Things can evolve on the road.
Somethings Old
My MacBook Air is perfect as it is. I added an automatic cloud based back up system, and freed up a ton of space on the hard drive. So no new computer purchase required. I moved from Windows to Mac some years ago and I’m glad I did. I still use Excel and Powerpoint (a cloud based version for Mac), but I love my Mac! This current computer is several years old and going strong. I expect to get several more years out of it.
A few years ago, I left my mouse in a hotel in Palo Alto and they refused to ship it back to me. So I went to the Apple store and reluctantly bought this “upscale” mouse. I grumbled. Over priced, I thought. Now I couldn’t function without it. It allows me to perform multiple functions quickly and easily. If you’re still using a low tech mouse, you may want to check this out.
This may be my single best “electronic” purchase EVER. If your back or neck get tired from computer work, GET THIS. It has revolutionized my computer life! It weights almost nothing and collapses into a tiny sack that’s easy to take along. Having my computer screen ergonomically adjusted is something I should have done long ago. Don’t wait; don’t be in pain. This item is a bit pricey, but worth every penny.
I have an old 12 GB iPhone6 Plus that would be perfectly fine, except that I’m out of space on it. Video, pictures and apps require storage! It’s time to upgrade. The camera in the new iPhone is also very promising.
I’m one of those people that is happy keeping a phone forever. One cell carrier once threatened me with a surcharge for obsolete technology! But those days have changed. I need to stay up to date on technology. So a new phone is a must do, with an automatic upgrade to the newest and latest every two years.
These clip on lenses give your iPhone a zoom and a wide angle lens.
The camera in the iPhone 7 Plus is excellent. This is going to be my point and click camera. The lenses simply slip over the camera eye on the phone and voila! A new lens for your iPhone camera. Set up/installation is simple. It can be used for video, time-lapse, panoramas and 360° VR photos.
However, if you have a case for your iPhone, this can be a bit of a hassle in that you need to remove the phone from the case to mount the lens. Olloclip makes a iPhone 7 Plus Case that gets around this inconvenience and still protects your phone. If you’re thinking about getting this to expand your photographic options, buy the Olloclip case, rather than the Apple case.
Cinematic video at your fingertips! The Osmo mobile holds the iPhone and allows you to make smooth video. I am happy with this purchase,and I’m still learning to use it, but it’s not perfect. The built in video stabilization in the iPhone 7 and in the Osmo sometimes collide, causing a very slight jerking motion as the two battle for stability control. It’s subtle. It could also also be attributed to my newbie status or the slow motion filming. It is a common issue based on Google search results. I’ll provide an update on my experiences in the video stabilization battles as I figure it out.
Another option would be to buy Digital Zoom Handheld 4K Camera Osmo with a built in camera, but this seemed to redundant to me when I already have an iPhone . And expensive. One could also use a tripod with the iPhone for better stability, but this takes away the spontaneity associated with point and click.
DJI Mavic Pro Yes, a drone. For fantastic video footage. (Remember, I am a pilot!)
I’ll do a separate post on my drone research, but I’m considering a DJI Mavic Pro. The reviews are excellent; it’s lightweight and collapsable; and has excellent features for videography.
My “serious” camera is a Nikon 5500. Combined with some good photo editing software, I can take both high quality film and video with this. Photography is an ongoing learning curve for me. Nikon even offers an online school.
The 5600 is the newer version, but the differences between the cameras are miniscule. For the added cost, I just didn’t see a reason to upgrade to the newest, latest, hottest model.
The 5500 comes with wifi which means I can download pictures directly to my phone. Given that I still do most of my editing on my computer, I tend to just use the port on the side of the camera to connect directly to my Mac. But for social media sharing, this is a great feature.
The only downside to this is that the camera does need some protection which translates into a somewhat bulky case for travel. This is where every ounce and every inch starts to count. I have a standard Nikon carrying case, but I’m on the lookout for sleeker, less bulky options.
Finally to keep everything organized, I store the various power cords on individual cord clips (left) in a plastic bag, in their own packing cube. This way, at the end of the day, everything is in one place. I also carry an adapter for different power sources.
What else goes into a decision to hit the road?
Aside from tuning up my old all wheel drive BMW 325xi wagon (a 2002 with only 114,000 miles on it–my last BMW went over 300,000 miles) and putting a Yakima Cargo Box on the car, I’m almost ready to roll. Escrow closes in one week.
I have to wear my financial hat to deal with the house closing and subsequent activities; my organizational hat for packing and for planning; my social hat for dealing with all the people in life; my physical hat, which is currently unwearable since I’ve badly wrenched my back, packing for the move; my writers and interviewing hat for #AllThingsCancer; my wanderlust hat to look ahead and plan the trip from here to Vashon…the list goes on.
I wake up early, 5:00 a.m. or so usually. I love the quiet of the morning, the freshness of the air, the gradual lightening of the sky. From my bedroom, I can watch the light of the sun as it touches the summit of the Sierras, and spreads down to its base. I revel in these moments. There is still snow in the mountains, while the pale purple wisteria blooms in my backyard. Birds chip. It is a glorious way to start the day.
I take a deep breath. Twice. Three times. This has become a new way of approaching the day. I carefully get out of bed, sensing to see if my back, stiff from hours of rest and sleep, is getting better. But as soon as I am up, regardless of how I feel, the tasks begin.
Juggling various tasks requires focus, for in reality I can only do one thing at a time. I cannot write and simultaneously trouble shoot technology issues. I cannot talk to utility reps to cancel my accounts while mentally preparing questions for an interview tomorrow (with James Gordon, MD on #AllThingsCancer on his book Manifesto for a New Medicine-an amazing book and a must read for all of us. I’ll have a review on Anti-Cancer Club in a bit.). I cannot yet see my way through to the end of this task of packing and moving, without one plodding step following another.
Bureaucracy impedes my path to freedom. Trying to cancel utility service takes over half a day, and Waste Management won’t even cancel my account. The new owners must assume it! The alarm company doesn’t answer and then never calls back. AT&T dreams up every imaginable and nonsensical reason for me to keep a phone number that is used only for the alarm and fax. And I haven’t had the fortitude to deal with Charter yet. They are always a consumer nightmare.
“Life is really simple, but we insist in making it complicated.” —Confucius
But I find solace in the fact that with each utility I check off the list, I am that much closer to a cleaner, simpler path where the experiential trumps the routine and adventure takes precedence over maintenance. I personally subscribe to the Hunter S. Thompson philosophy:
“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming “Wow!”
Five days to the resumption of Wow. Five days to no mortgage, no utilities, no property taxes. No water, garbage or sewer fees. Life is getting infinitely simpler. And mobile.
Vanessa, my concert violinist-friend, has offered me a room as a base of operations. I can stash some boots and winter clothes and have a safe place to land. And stay connected to someone I want to stay connected to.
Vanessa and I are 20 some years apart in age, but we click. She is drop dead gorgeous; talented, bright and adventuresome. She once sold everything and took off on a continental concert tour. (Check out her website www.GreenDotJourney.com) She understands my decoupling from the so-called normal order of things. She too has gone rogue and is looking ahead to her next set of travels.
On the minimalist front, I still have too much. I’ve given away or sold everything from powder skis to kayaks; juicers to ice cream makers; and all sorts of furniture that I’ve hung onto for far too long, mostly out of a sense of obligation to care for it. I think the comment from The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up–if touching an item doesn’t bring joy, don’t keep it, is a good measure of a keepsake.
Many of my keepsakes bring visual joy. Art and old maps that adorned my wall; pottery/china from France and Italy decorated my tables; rugs for the floor. One of my favorite rugs is a quirky creation resulting from the Russian occupation of Afghanistan. It has images of tanks and missiles subtly woven into the design. You need to look closely to pick up on the war references, but finding them is an aha! moment in the lessons of the intersections of art and human history.
Storage for now, for all of it. I’ve done the best I can, for the moment. Another round of de-ownership will no doubt follow when I resettle again. But I have no idea when or where that may be. Right now I am simply considering my trek from here to Vashon.
When I do decide to resettle, this area will most likely be in the running. Reno/Tahoe (aka the Truckee Meadows) has some of the most perfect weather imaginable. Big blue skies, full of sun, low humidity and four seasons. It has easy access to the Bay area, to Yosemite, the desert for events like Burning Man and it’s exactly 2 hours and 20 minutes (a personal record) to the Route 12 turnoff off of Route 80 to wine country. (I’ve been known to go down to Napa for lunch and back the same day!)
When I originally moved here, I was flying, skiing, hiking, exploring–you name it. But cancer has taken it’s toll. I can’t do all the things I used to do, and with that loss, the area loses some of its allure for me.
The town itself has its pluses and minuses, like anywhere else. The upside is that Reno continues to evolve, and in a good way. There is a minor league baseball team and a new stadium; downtown is in a semi-renaissance (except for the homeless bussed in from California who take up residence along the river) and mid-town is thriving. In the summer there are endless festivals and activities, and Tahoe is half an hour up the hill. The suburbs are great, and there are many wonderful places to live.
On the food front (always important to me!), there is a lot going on for a town this size. A fair number of small restaurants that may not live up to the standards of near-by wine country, but offer good food at rational prices. Healthy fare has found its way into many establishments, and more and more area farms are connecting with local restaurants. CSAs are also readily available.
A series of farmers markets start up just after Memorial Day. My favorite is the older California Street market, where I’ve come to know the various vendors, and have found my favorites. One stand has the best peaches, except when the O’Henrys come out. Then you want to go to the stand across the way. The best, sweetest small tomatoes are at the popular stand at the end. It always has long lines. And you want to get to the strawberry stand first thing in the morning to get the golden raspberries when they are in season.
I looked Reno up on Trip Advisor the other day and all they highlighted were the casinos and their restaurants. This is not a true perspective of the town. Many people who live here never go to the casinos unless it’s for an event, a show or a concert. The real raison d’être here is the outdoors. And the local scene, however that is defined for you.
Socially, there seem to be two main groups of people: the locals and everyone else. The locals only hang with the other locals and they tend to set the tone in government and in business. Historically the area has made a living off of gambling, mining and ranching. The local university is UNR, where many of the kids go to college, just a few miles from home. This tends to perpetuate a “who were you in high school” mentality and favors who you know over “what you can do” as a criteria for measurement and advancement.
The school system is sadly abysmal. Dead last in the country. As Einstein once said (to paraphrase), “You can’t solve a problem with the same energy that caused it.” And so it goes, and no one catches on.
The very low educational standards that permeate the population and the closed intellectual and social cliques are serious drawbacks to living here. Unless, of course, you simply treat this as a home base.
Starting around 2000 when I arrived, the area started to grow. Easy living, good quality of life, low traffic, great outdoors, good proximity to many things and an easy to use airport started to attract a more cosmopolitan crowd.
The dot com boom lured newly minted millionaires of the Bay Area to the lake and to Incline Village on the north shore of Lake Tahoe (Nevada has significant tax advantages over neighboring California). The Wall Street Journal wrote that the billionaires were forcing out the millionaires. And that trend continues.
But in this eastward migration from the Bay area, California transplants rapidly discovered that it really can snow seventy feet in a season, and a secondary migration from Tahoe to southwest Reno started. And now, with the current cost of living in the Bay Area, more people and companies are starting to check out the Truckee Meadows area as an alternative lifestyle. But most of the jobs to date are construction oriented, warehousing and some engineering. A vast industrial park east of town in Patrick hosts Amazon distribution and now Tesla battery manufacturing facilities.
The people in Reno are generally nice, although I think the gambling mentality permeates the ethics of the business community where I’ve continuously encountered shady people and dealings. Ranging from finance and real estate, to the so called start up community, to the tech creeps–who were California transplants–the ethical climate, compounded by a poor educational base, leaves a lot to be desired.
In looking to relocate 20 years ago, I considered the cultural influences on the area. In my naiveté , I presumed that the Bay Area would be more of an influence. And the lure of the incredible outdoors and world class flying conditions were irresistible. I’m grateful for the opportunity to live here for these reasons, but it’s time to move on.
I don’t know how long I have until cancer care once again dominates my life. One month? One year? Two or three years if I’m lucky perhaps? (statistically unlikely that I’ll have that long, but I choose not believe in medical statistics). Whatever time I have, in relative health, I want to use it well.
In the meantime, I’m counting down to the final tasks of packing up. I am exhausted. I am considering going directly to Vashon and just chilling. A few days of walking the beach, getting fresh fish and veggies at the market, checking out the Thai restaurant my friends rave about and generally relaxing are sounding better to me than a jaunt through wine country, which I can do afterwards, if I’m so inclined. After all, been there, done that!
Looking forward to some new adventures!
What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
What's on your bucket list?
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CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.