Travel adventure is taking a back seat for the moment and some of my wanderlust has moved into the kitchen in the form of culinary travels.
Cooking is in my DNA. My Greek grandmother was an amazing cook. Wonderful aromas, both familiar and exotic, drifted from her kitchen, and in her pantry, in tins, were dozens of utterly decadent greek cookies. The pear trees in her yard created toppings for ice cream, and mint grew rampant.
Mint grew everywhere
My grandmother cooked from her heart. She made noodles without a recipe. “See, it feels like this,” she would instruct me.
Homemade pasta, cut by hand
She made one dish, a roast chicken with lemon, oregano, butter and tomatoes. She’d roast the chicken, then add the tomatoes towards the end. The drippings from the chicken, the butter and spices were sublime. And then, for the coup de grace, she would simply stir the fresh, hand cut, homemade noodles into the pan sauce. Dinner was served.
She combined flavors that sang. From her I inherited an ability to put together a meal from instinct. Whether it’s something as simple as great feta, tomatoes, olive oil and bread or something more time intensive like her dolmas stuffed with a meat and rice mixture, simmered in egg lemon sauce (to die for!).
I no longer eat much meat and my diet is very vegetable and fish focused. I use few prepared products (although the Thai curries below are a very healthy fast food option to have in your pantry). I hope this post gives you some ideas and inspiration for culinary travels at home.
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On fish: I buy packs of wild, individually sealed and frozen salmon, cod and ahi tuna. The packs defrost in a bowl of hot water in about 10 minutes.
It’s my definition of fast food.
So as you browse the fish recipes, know that they’re readily accessible and easy to make with a few pantry basics. And please know that I don’t generally measure my ingredients. Just use your best judgement and ENJOY!
On herbs: I have an aero garden that gives me fresh herbs–and inspiration!–for cooking. The Thai basil pushes me into culinary Southeast Asia more than I otherwise might venture on my own. The dill provides a raison d’être for amazing deviled eggs. And the basil simply inspires everything. If you don’t have fresh herbs, no worries! Dried herbs work just great.
Fresh herbs are always available.
On diet: I generally eat a low glycemic, vegetable rich diet. I stay away from processed foods. When I do buy a food item like the curry sauces below, I read the label carefully. Don’t think that organic always means healthy! A lot of organic products have tons of sugar in them.
On organic: When you can, buy organic, fresh and local. Local produce doesn’t travel as far and usually retains more of its nutrients. High respiration foods like asparagus and mushrooms (yum) lose their nutritional qualities very quickly.
It’s been a cool spring, perfect for some time in the kitchen. So here is some pandemic cooking! I hope it gives you some ideas for what you can do with healthy pantry cooking.
Culinary Travels At Home
My culinary travels are usually more Mediterranean in nature, but Asia beckons. Here are some ideas from my kitchen this corona spring.
Corona Spring in Santa Fe: Beautiful blooms but few people to witness the unfolding of the season
Mediterranean Inspired Culinary Travels
Salmon with lentils is a classic combination that can be translated into mediterranean or Thai cuisine.
Salmon on Curried French Lentils
Ingredients:
De Puy Lentils
Onions, Carrot, Celery
Turmeric, Salt, Pepper, Garlic, Ginger
Olive Oil, Apple Cider Vinegar, Tamari, Curry Powder, Honey, Chopped Garlic and Ginger
Salmon
Instructions:
Cook the de Puy Lentils and set aside. (Use any extra in a salad with feta, crunchy veggies and whatever else strikes your fancy or tie into some homemade soup.)
In a saute pan, carmelize the onions. Add some chopped carrot and celery. Add the cooked lentils and some turmeric. Salt and pepper to taste.
Meanwhile, in the oven (325-350 degrees), roast the salmon with butter and white wine until rare/medium rare.
Whisk up a curried vinaigrette (oil, apple cider vinegar, Tamari, curry of your choice, honey if desired, salt, pepper. Adjust flavors as needed. Garlic and ginger are great additions.)
Dress the lentils. Top with salmon. A bit of parsley from the garden.
Dinner is served.
(This dish grew out of whatever was around. The carrots and onions were pantry staples, as were the lentils. Salmon in the freezer. Spices on hand.)
Mediterranean Tuna
Frozen ahi provides great quality fish shrink wrapped in individual servings. Ten minutes in a bowl of hot water and voila! You have healthy, high quality, fast food.
This is a dish that appears in a million variations in my house. It can be cooked on the stove or in the oven. Foil packets work well too. I have an old Cusinart pan with a domed lid that is my go to favorite for these types of meals, making it an easy one pot endeavor. I cook the fish very gently over a very low flame and remove it from the heat while still rare-medium/rare.
Ingredients:
Garlic
Vegetables of choice: Olives, Tomatoes, Onions, Red Peppers, Artichokes, Spinach
Water, Stock or Wine
Tuna
Instructions:
Saute garlic.
Add vegetables of your choice and greek olives. Tomatoes. Add a bit of water, stock or wine. Add fish.
Cover and simmer oh so slowly. Top with fresh basil. Or parsley. Or even some mint!
Vegetables that work well are red peppers, artichokes, spinach. Be creative!
Baked Fennel
Fennel is a much maligned vegetable. Try this recipe. It is simple and to die for. I make pans of this just for the leftovers.
I simply love fennel and it’s a vegetable that keeps well in the frig during this time of corona where your shopping runs may not be a frequent as usual. I love fennel raw; I love it cooked. This baked fennel recipe is too good for words. Even if you think you don’t like fennel, try this!
Ingredients:
Fennel
Olive Oil
Parmesan
Ground Pepper
Instructions:
Slice fennel bulbs, removing core.
Toss in olive oil.
Sprinkle with Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper.
Arrange in a baking dish and bake in a 375 degree oven until the cheese browns and the fennel is the desired degree of tender.
Asian Inspired Culinary Travels
Thai Red Curry Shrimp with Red Lentils, Green Beans, and Peas
Substitue organic chicken or salmon, or just do a veggie curry.
Ingredients:
Shrimp
Red Lentils
Green Beans
Fresh Peas from the freezer
Trader Joe’s Red Curry Sauce
Thai basil if available
Instructions:
Cook red lentils; set aside. (Leftovers make great salads)
Saute shrimp in garlic. Add Trader Joe’s Red Thai simmer sauce, some water and vegetables. I added some dried spinach flakes, fresh peas and French green beans (partially cooked in the microwave) and cilantro. Simmer gently until the shrimp are cooked.
Serve with brown jasmine rice and top with tons of Thai Basil.
Dinner is served.
I have an aero garden in my kitchen with plenty of fresh herbs, so Thai basil is easily available. Regular Italian basil is a good addition too!
Salmon in Green Curry, Edamame, Red Pepper, Spinach
Simply scrumptious.
I keep a bag of frozen edamame in the freezer so it’s always available. And it makes a great addition to these types of dishes.
Ingredients:
Salmon
Trader Joe’s Green Curry Sauce
Edamame
Red Pepper
Spinach (fresh or dehydrated)
Chopped ginger and garlic
Instructions:
Saute red pepper. Add garlic and ginger.
Add Green Curry Sauce and a bit of water. (I usually put some water in the jar and shake it to get the rest of the sauce out! You could also use some coconut milk.)
Add fish, edamame and fresh spinach. Cover and simmer ever so gently.
Serve with basmati brown rice, cooked in chicken stock with a bay leaf.
I also make this with green zucchini and red peppers. This is my idea of fast food.
Asian Tuna with Bok Choy
Love bok choy! Try braising it on the stove with a bit of chicken stock, garlic and ginger. So simple, healthy and good!
This one is really good. And flexible. Try salmon or spinach. Or shrimp or organic chicken. Add some sliced red pepper. Just about anything goes with this combination, served with organic brown basmati rice, cooked in chicken stock (Better Than Bouillion) and a bay leaf.
Ingredients
Protein: Salmon, shrimp or chicken. Or Tofu. Or whatever!
Red Pepper, sliced
Any other vegetables of choice.
Instructions
Heat some organic butter in the pan. Saute garlic and ginger.
Add salmon and a bit of stock or water. Add fresh bok choy leaves to the pan and a bit of Asian Sauce (see below). Cover and simmer ever so slowly and serve with brown basmati rice or organic jasmine brown rice.
Serve with extra sauce on the side.
Asian Sauce
This goes with everything and it’s totally addictive.
2 T Soy or Tamari
2 T oyster Sauce
Honey to Taste
1-2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil (buy the highest quality sesame oil you can; it makes a massive difference)
1 T apple cider vinegar
Chopped Ginger and Garlic
Scallions
Combine and enjoy!
Miso Anything
If you’re not a miso fan, try this recipe. If you are, hang onto this recipe. It’s a total winner.
This isn’t my recipe, but it is oh so good! Make a double batch. You’ll almost want to drink this! Here’s a link to Bobby Flay’s Miso Salmon recipe.
General Culinary Travels
Swiss Chard, Yellow Squash and Red Peppers
My love chard grew out of a surplus of this odd vegetable in my garden one year. Now I’m hooked. I hope you will be too. The sweetness of the onion, squash and red pepper perfectly balance the slightly bitter flavor of the chard.
This is one of my favorite vegetable combinations. It was created when an overabundance of chard came out of my garden one year.
I use it as a stand alone vegetable, serve it over rice or whole wheat pasta, put it in a frittata, a quiche, or simply snack on it. Have a bit of good quality grated Parmesan on hand.
Ingredients
Sliced onion
Red Pepper
Yellow squash, sliced into rounds or halves
Swiss chard, julienned
Garlic (be sure to chop your own; don’t use the pre-chopped product)
Instructions
Saute sliced onion in olive oil. Add red pepper, yellow squash and garlic. Cook til crunchy-tender.
Add julienned Swiss chard and cook til tender. (You may want to add a few tablespoons of water to steam the chard as it cooks.)
Voila!
So simple, healthy and utterly delicious. Give it a go. It can be frozen in individual servings and defrosted in the microwave for fast food.
Vegetable Soup
Anything goes in this “recipe”.
I LOVE soup. Not the canned versions with too many carbs and sodium, but homemade soup. I made a big pot of this last week when I realized that I had yellow squash and green zucchini that needed to be used. I also had some homemade chicken stock that I’d made from a roast chicken carcass. So, soup it was!
Ingredients
Onion, carrot, celery, chopped
Garlic, chopped
Stock or Water
Vegetables of Choice (In this case, the soup flavors were driven by what was in the frig, namely zucchini!)
Instructions
Saute onion, celery and carrot til soft. Add a bit of chopped garlic.
Add stock or water (and a generous big spoonful of Better Than Bouillon Chicken Soup Base).
Add vegetables (in this case yellow and green squash), and a large can of organic tomatoes. I have a bag of freeze dried spinach and I added about half a cup of that as well. Thyme, parsley, oregano, and a bit of salt. Simmer and serve with fresh basil or a bit of pesto. A sprinkle of parmesan is good too.
Other additions include any vegetable you can think of! I always keep some homemade soup around for a fast, healthy, and satisfying lunch.
My Pantry Basics for Culinary Travel
It’s easy to have a well stocked pantry that allows you to quickly have a healthy and satisfying meal.
If there is ever a snow storm or any natural disaster, you want to hang at my house. I always have a well stocked pantry, some wine and a bit of imagination. Here are some of my must haves:
Oils and Fats
High quality olive oil and vinegars (EVOO olive oils, aged balsamic, wine vinegar and some exotics, like Meyer Lemon Olive Oil–great drizzled on goat cheese)
Organic Butter
Organic mayonnaise
Sesame Oil (Buy the highest quality roasted sesame oil you can find)
Asian Products
Mirin
Tamari
Rice vinegar
Oyster Sauce
Miso (white)
Cheese
I don’t eat much dairy. At one point I actually went vegan but decided life without cheese wasn’t worth living. But I’ve greatly reduced my dairy consumption and it is skewed towards goats milk which is more easily digestible than cow’s milk products
Feta ( buy the sheep’s milk blocks in brine from Trader Joe’s). Do not buy the crumbles. Crumble it yourself!
Laura Chenel goat cheese
Parmesan Cheese (I often buy the Peccorino/Romano blend from Trader Joe’s). This also freezes well.
Pantry Basics
Onions
Sun dried tomatoes
Organic canned tomatoes
Anchovies (They add a subtle, salty undertone to tomato sauces that is utterly addictive. Try sautéing some onion in olive oil; add a can of anchovies, chopped; a can of organic tomatoes and simmer til the flavors are just combined. Don’t let the tomatoes cook down too much. The fresh flavor, with an undertone of saltiness, is sublime. Top with herbs (parsley and/or basil) and serve. This can also form the base for a Mediterranean fish dinner, as well as a sauce for (whole wheat) pasta.
Lentils (de puy and red. Black Beluga are good too)
Cannellini Beans
Wild canned salmon (I like this better than tuna, although the wild yellow fin tuna from Wild Planet is something to have on hand)
Olives (Kalamata and large Sicilian Green Olives)
Artichokes (Grilled and quartered, in glass jars or BPA free cans)
Brown Rice, preferably organic. I love Basmati Rice.
Quinoa
With the corona virus and subsequent lockdowns, I didn’t know what to expect so I put some freeze dried/dried vegetables from North Bay Trading Company in the pantry. They are terrific and will be a future staple for my house.
In The Freezer
Frozen Salmon, Cod and Ahi Tuna
Frozen Shrimp
Frozen Edamame, shelled
In The Frig
Organic lemons
Ginger (You can also freeze this)
Carrots and Celery
Better Than Bouillon Chicken Stock (I usually buy the low sodium version)
Herbs and Spices
Herbes de Provence (an absolute must have), thyme, oregano, turmeric, several curry blends, cumin, cilantro, parsley (fresh and dried), black Tellicherry peppercorns, bay leaves, fresh and powdered garlic, and fresh herbs including thyme, chives, basil, Thai basil (fresh and dried), mint and dill, cumin, turmeric and curry.
And I usually have an assortment of other flavors on hand. It’s a matter of whatever you use and like most. I tend to have a pretty elaborate spice drawer.
For me, the upside of corona has been some culinary adventure close to home. With warmer weather on the horizon, I’ll be doing more grilling. (Think cedar planked salmon with Dijon mustard, wine and dill.)
I’d love to hear what you’re cooking. Tweet me @CancerRoadTrip or leave a comment below.
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Napa/Sonoma is one of those wonderful spots one never tires of.
And for me, there are so many memories.
My first glider ride in Calistoga.
Wine clubs and parties.
Great meals.
Fox 40 in Sacramento
So when Fox 40 in Sacramento asked me to join them, the thought of running down to Napa/Sonoma did occur to me. Since I couldn’t get a flight back ’til Tuesday, I added one extra night and voila! I was going to one of my all time favorite spots, the Sonoma Mission Inn.
Napa/Sonoma
Napa/Sonoma is an easy drive from Sacramento.
Napa is just about an hour from Sacramento
And once you leave the highway, the road winds through beautiful countryside, interrupted only by the lines of vineyards that wind up the slope.
Napa has undergone a great deal of renovation in recent years, including the Oxbow Public Market. The 40,000 square foot facility located along the Napa River showcases local companies and food producers with an emphasis on sustainable and organic farming practices. It was designed by San Francisco architects, Baldauf, Catton, and Von Eckartsberg, (who also did the Ferry Building in San Francisco).
The bridge over the Napa River leads to all sorts of wine country intrigue
The Oxbow Public Market in Napa
Produce at Oxbow Public Market
Located in the market is an eclectic assortment of butcher shops, a fish market, artisan cheese and wine, organic produce, olive oil and…
Drum roll please..
Hog Island Oysters.
At the oyster bar, Oxbow Public Market
A selection of Kumamotos, Eld Inslet Chelsea Olympia and Disco Hama oysters
Hog Island has a location in Tomales Bay where they harvest 160 acres of intertidal waters, as well as in the Embarcadero in San Francisco. And now, in Napa.
Hog Island Oyster at Tomales Bay
Sitting happily at the oyster bar in downtown Napa, I chose a selection of my favorite oysters, including Kumamotos, with a glass of Muscadet.
Briny heaven.
The Oxbow Market is a fun place. Food, wonderful oils and vinegars, craft beers and more provide culinary amusement. And next door is Copia CIA (as in Culinary Institute of America). The grounds include the restaurant, outdoor sitting areas and a wonderful retrospective of Julia Child in France.
Julia in France
Outside the Copia CIA
The CIA also has another California location in St. Helena. The St. Helena facility (Greystone) is in the old Christian Brothers Winery building, a massive stone building that perches on the hill. Inside Brother Timothy’s collection of corkscrews (hundreds of them!) are a must see.
From Napa, it’s on to Sonoma, just down the road.
A short drive to the west is Calistoga
Napa/Sonoma: The Sonoma Mission Inn
Back in 1995, I headed west with my sailplane, supposedly for the summer (although the trip lasted a good deal longer and ended up with my moving to Tahoe). I pulled into the airport in Truckee. The bunkhouse was $6 a night and a hot shower cost an extra dollar.
Aviation Hog Heaven.
But my go-to escape from the airport became wine country where I discovered the Sonoma Mission Inn.
The Entry to The Sonoma Mission Inn
The grounds at the Sonoma Mission Inn
The main building was designed by Joseph L. Stewart. Spanish mission details, like the beautiful tiled roofs, lend a timeless air to the property.
Spanish style tiled roof at Sonoma Mission Inn
The Sonoma Mission Inn has a distinguished history. Native Americans sought out the sacred location for the healing waters. Today, the Willow Spa sits atop the ancient thermal mineral spring which runs 1,100 feet below, bringing 135 degree water for a serious wellness retreat experience. This natural hot artesian well makes the Sonoma Mission Inn the only luxury resort in the western U.S. with its own source of thermal mineral water.
The main pool is just outside the spa.
Tucked under the trees, a place to relax.
The fountain greets you as you enter the spa area. To one side is a fully equipped workout room. To the left is a store full of tempting items. And below, around the Willow Spa, a series of pools and secluded hideaways for a bit of rest and relaxation.
Upon arrival, one is greeted with a sparkling wine. And in the room, a bottle of cabernet awaits.
Cheers!
Life is good at the Sonoma Mission Inn.
Sante, the AAA Four Diamond Award and Michelin designated restaurant, is available for breakfast and dinner. Breakfast one morning featured Mama’s Warm Banana Bread with Espresso Peanut Butter.
Now this is breakfast!
Sante is open for breakfast and dinner. Tuesday and Wednesday evening Executive Chef Marcellus Coleman as a pop-up test kitchen and tasting menu where they bring new dishes to life, inspired by the culinary instincts and insights of their guests.
And should you wish to go into Sonoma, the car service will deliver you wherever you’d like to go, and pick you up again later. I especially appreciated this because it meant I didn’t have to park or drive, and could indulge in a nice meal with a glass of wine.
Napa/Sonoma: The Girl and the Fig
The Sonoma Square is quiet and even a little sleepy. But the culinary scene is very much alive. I’ve eaten at many of the restaurants around the square over the years, and this evening, The Girl and The Fig beckoned.
The Girl and The Fig on the Sonoma Square
It’s a casual restaurant with a fun bar. And as a single traveler, I always appreciate a bar with good energy for dinner. And this evening’s dinner was moules with pommel frites and aioli. Simply perfect.
Moules with pommel frites
And around the square, various shops beckon with that indescribeable California flare.
Beautiful homewares tempt one along the Sonoma plaza
Napa/Sonoma Nostaglia
With just one full day I decided to pass on wine tasting and revisit some old haunts. There was something that needed closure for me. What, I wasn’t sure. Perhaps it was a revisiting of old memories. Perhaps it was just the recognition that time moves on.
But I had to travel to know. To understand what my intuition was telling me. So I headed up to Healdsburg, one of my long time favorite wine country places.
Healdsburg Square
Memories of wineries and dinners abound in this Northern California region. And as I wandered the streets, I was met with the a sense of dislocation. What had once been such a focus in my life, has now moved to a back burner. It was more than “been there, done that”.
It was a soulful recognition of a wonderful past, accompanied by the permission to move on.
The last two years of travel and moving have changed me. Much of the beautiful tableware, decorative items and furniture that once constituted a stunning home are still in storage. And now I find my beauty in fleeting light seen through my camera. In a good meal. In the company of friends, and often simply in the company of myself.
The sense of closure is a good one. It’s not as much about letting go as it is about getting going. Life moves on and so do we.
And for a bit of nostalgic solace, there are always oysters. This time at Willi’s.
Willi’s Seafood
The drive back was through the backroads into Calistoga. I remember the very first time I visited and the arts and craft house where I stayed. The French antique shop that is no more. A dinner with a vintner at a restaurant/bar that is closed.
And at the end of the street, I sought out the airfield where I went for my first glider ride. But the airfield is no longer operational and the old buildings are fading away.
The old building at the end of the airstrip
One of the old glider hangars
Things change and we all move on. In Napa/Sonoma the roads are better, the crowds are not, and memories meet me at every turn.
Memory is a way of holding onto the things you love, the things you are, the things you never want to lose.
~From the television show The Wonder Years
I’m so grateful for the many memories of this wonderful area. Of food and wine (and oysters!). Of people and places. For the introduction to soaring, which led to a decade of flight and so much more. Memories are part of the fabric of life and they need to be honored. And sometimes relinquished as well.
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
This year, it’s Mardi Gras from afar. I’ll be joining some friends at an Asian bistro to celebrate, and I suspect I’ll be doing without any étouffée.
From étouffée to King Cakes, Mardi Gras is a celebration for the senses. For weeks, parades, street fests, music, food and camaraderie reign.
Many things bind people with this holiday and one of them is the King Cake. The history is a bit foggy (too many hurricanes?) but the origins are decidedly French. The cake is believed to have come from France in 1870. And from there, the rest is history.
The history of the King Cake meanders a bit, rather like the Mississippi itself, and over the years it’s taken a variety of forms. But at heart, it is a rich cake/pastry concoction decorated with the royal colors of purple (Justice), green (Faith) and gold (Power). Buried somewhere in the cake is a small plastic baby. He/she who gets the piece with the baby becomes King for the day and must host then next party and provide the King Cake.
A traditional King Cake decorated in green, gold and purple
Some cakes are more pastry like, like this one.
So it goes, and the good times roll.
Over the years the cakes have gotten more elaborate and creative. But my personal favorite is brioche based. I can still taste the rich brioche from my favorite New Orleans bakery uptown, where butter and bliss meet in cake form.
Beyond King Cake, New Orleans offers all its usual foods. And it’s the incredible combination of foods and food sources, ethnicities and flavors that I find endlessly fascinating.
Consider gumbo. It starts with the careful development of a dark roux (butter/oil and flour cooked to mahogany perfection, and never burned).
After the roux comes a vegetable base with any combination of foods.
Traditional Creole cajun court bouillon with fish and seafood gumbo
African okra might be cooked into the gumbo to lend its stickiness to thicken the stew. Or Indian file may provide a thickening agent to pull the dish together.
Okra lends body and substance to gumbo
Then there may be some Cajun sausage, Spanish peppers, oysters, shrimp and whatever other seafood strikes ones fancy. Crawfish. Chicken. Duck. What’s your pleasure?
And then it’s all served over Chinese white rice, with hot French bread.
It’s a world tour de culinary force in a simple bowl.
The history of food is always fascinating and some of my favorite cuisines are an amalgam of different cultures, times and ingredients. One of the things I admire about New Orleans cooking is how they’ve kept alive the classics, while continuing to evolve the food for more modern tastes. History hasn’t stifled innovation. To the contrary, the melting pot history has encouraged ever new takes on the regional culinary dialect.
Dinner at Sobu, New Orleans
So on this day, Fat Tuesday, when all of New Orleans, eats, drinks and rocks and rolls, I will (in such typical American fashion) raise my glass and nod to this noble tradition. As I enjoy the pan-Asian flavors (think a combination of Chinese, Thai and whatnot) at Jinja here in Santa Fe.
More Reading on New Orleans
These posts are from the YOLO (You Only Live Once) section of the blog. They are some old excerpts from a not yet finished book (Adventures By Sailplane) and trace the curious set of events that led to my becoming a pilot. And it all started, in its own strange way, in New Orleans.
If you’re interested in learning more about photography (or cooking or film or any number of topics) check out MasterClass All-Access Pass for on-line excellence:
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
I must confess that I did not take a single picture during this week of Santa Fe’s Wine and Chile Fiesta.
Not of food, that is.
View from the Santa Fe Opera
And that’s because I attended Saturday’s Wine and Chile festivities, enjoying offerings ranging from oysters to lamb chops, and wines from sauvignon blanc to some excellent pinot noirs. Two hands were needed to manage both food and wine; no room for a camera on this foodie foray!
But on an upcoming trip to the Paso Robles area, pictures will be taken. Paso Robles is one of my favorite pinot regions. The cool sea breezes and warm days produce remarkable pinot noirs; but more on that later.
The Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta
The Wine and Chile Fiesta in Santa Fe is a gathering celebrating the food of Santa Fe, matched with many of California’s best wines. Dinners at various restaurants throughout the week offer food and wine pairings, with most meals in the $150/head range. So many restaurants, so little time! But I passed on the individual dinners, lunches and various culinary events to attend the Grand Tasting at the Santa Fe Opera.
Santa Fe Chile Rista Photo Credit: Unsplash
Peaked white tents set up in the upper parking area at the Opera provide shade and seating, while thousands of people meander among Santa Fe’s favorite restaurants. Accompanying them are wine producers, many of whom were from California. And they brought some wonderful wines for tastings, ranging from a Silver Oak Cab to a Paso Robles Justin series of reds.
Takes on local food, like stunning grilled shrimp tacos were scattered among the offerings. But most of the food choices transcended geography, and were simply delicious. Wagu Beef; fried oysters; raw oysters with a green chile salsa; paella; honey pork on arugula salad; the list goes on.
I obviously decided that this event was not for the diet conscious, although much of the food, served in beautiful, artfully arranged, small portions, was actually fairly healthy. Well prepared crustaceans, fish, meat and vegetables met with some excellent wine offerings to create a fun and memorable afternoon.
90 wineries poured samples of every varietal imaginable Photo Credit: Unsplash
Not to leave out the art community, this year’s Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta poster artist was Ed Sandoval, who currently hails from Taos.
The history of this event goes back to 1991 when Mark Miller, Al Lucero, and Gordon Heiss got together to organize a one day food event that would grow into the world class, one week celebration that the fiesta is today. Over three bottles of Joseph Phelps 1985 Insignia at Cafe Sena, the first Wine and Chile Fiesta was launched. The full story behind all this on the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Festival site, www.santafewineandchile.org.
Seventy restaurants and ninety wineries made this year’s Wine and Chile Fiesta a total success. Sommeliers, guest chefs and local chefs all provided food and demonstrations throughout the week. If you’re a serious foodie, this week in Santa Fe is one to put on your calendar for next year. Proceeds from the event go back into restaurant and culinary education in Santa Fe.
Downtown Santa Fe
More Foodie Forays With CancerRoadTrip
Life is short. Good food nourishes one’s body and soul. Here are a few other (among many!) foodie posts on my travels.
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Everyone can’t necessarily make Restaurant Week, but one can take a tour with Food Tour New Mexico anytime.
I signed up with Food Tour New Mexico for a day on the culinary trail to get a different perspective of Santa Fe cuisine. The tour included three restaurants (all of which were new to me) , a stop at an olive oil store, and the perfect end to a perfect day– a sampling of Pre-Columbian, Mesoamerican, Mayan and Aztec drinking chocolate elixirs.
I seldom take tours; I prefer to wander, but the prospect of food and stories lured me in. And Carlos Zozaya, our culinary guide for the day with Food Tour New Mexico, was the perfect person to combine both.
Native Americans sell jewelry at the Palace of the Governors
Food Tour New Mexico
The day for the restaurant tour arrived and a northerly wind swept the Plaza. Indians with their hand crafted jewelry lined up beneath the portico at the Palace of the Governors. Every day spots are allocated by a lottery system. Some artists travel hours to claim a place, but today many were empty. It’s not tourist season; it is winter and it is cold.
A curly haired, friendly fellow smiled and approached me. It was Carlos. Carlos is a big man, his size outweighed only by his friendliness. He puts everyone immediately at ease as he starts telling the tales of New Mexico’s food scene. He’s apprenticed in various restaurants; left New Mexico; returned to New Mexico; and is now firmly entrenched in the New Mexico culinary world.
Carlos discussing the merits of New Mexican Chile at the San Francisco Bar and Grill
As the group assembled, Carlos asked if we could handle margaritas before noon. Had he hinted that this would be the most perfect margarita, with the most perfect balance of slightly sweet, lime and tequila, no one could have said no.
And no one did.
The San Francisco Bar and Grill overlooks the Plaza
San Francisco Bar and Grill
Food Tour New Mexico started with a bit of traditional New Mexican food at San Francisco Bar and Grill on the corner of Don Gaspar Avenue and East San Francisco Street.
Carlos’ enthusiasm is boundless and his culinary knowledge deep.
Cooking has always been his passion. As a child, he helped his grandmother in the kitchen. But as a young man, the world of New Mexico seemed too small and he left.
Carlos’ good nature and expertise made each stop an experience.
Now he laughs at his attempts to leave. “New Mexico is the Land of Entrapment!” he proclaims, echoing a local theme that mocks the state motto “Land of Enchantment”.
Because once New Mexico is in your blood, it is always so. When you try to leave, the indescribable pull of this remarkable place quietly, subtly, persistently pulls you back.
Carlos came back because leaving New Mexico made him realize just how special the local history, culture and food really are.
A mingling of Spanish, Mexican and Indian cultures has produced a place like no other. The Mexican traditions brought traditional foods and salsas (not red or green chile). The Indians brought native foods. A typical food might be Indian tacos fried like naan bread, topped with beans, according to Carlos.
The Spanish brought spices–paprika, cumin, cilantro–and smaller portions in tapas, and perhaps most importantly, in the 1600’s, the papilla pepper arrived. The climate in the Rio Grande Valleys was perfect: Hot days, warm nights mixed with the mineral content of the water and land gave the New Mexican chile a unique flavor profile that can’t be transported.
Chile preferences are a topic of passionate discussion in New Mexico.
How hot. How to prepare, store them and cook them. Ultimately the discussion comes to a pivotal question:
Red or Green?
Photo by Calum Lewis on Unsplash
This is a serious topic of debate.
Some say green chile is for chicken and pork. Some prefer red. Or red chile with meat, but certainly not green.
The difficulty of deciding has led to a compromise solution that everyone seems to accept:
Both Red and Green
AKA, Christmas style. That way everyday is a holiday in your mouth.
Why all the brouhaha? What’s the difference? Is it just heat? Flavor? Preference? Or perhaps a combination of all the above?
Let me see if I can summarize the dissertation of red versus green chile.
There are several cultivars of chile including New Mexico 6-4′, ‘Big Jim’, ‘Sandia’, and ‘No. 6’ and ‘No. 9’ . All chile start off green. When they’re allowed to ripen further they become red.
Same pepper, but two different products.
The Green Chile
The green chile is often eaten as a pepper. They may be layered with eggs, on burgers and made into sauces. Some say that the green chile tends to be a bit hotter, although I am inclined to believe it really depends on the preparation. I can’t eat anything too hot, but I adore green chile.
The skin of either the red or green chile isn’t digestible, so the pepper has to be roasted then peeled.
In Carlos’ house, his mother would purchase fifty pound bags of fresh green chile. They were roasted and sweated in large plastic bags. The sweating helps the skins slide off easily.
There are several methods to preparing chile. They can be roasted, peeled and frozen. They can be frozen with the skin in place. (The skins then pull off easily when defrosted.) One cook claims this leads to superior flavor.
Green chile can also be freeze dried, made into a powder, packaged and shipped. Green chile is often associated with chicken or pork, although there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to chile preferences.
The Red Chile
Red chile is a slightly different animal. Here is where the techniques start to differ. It is usually dried for storage. It then needs to be reconstituted.
The Santa Fe chile hangs outside at the Farmers Market
Carlos explained that his mother would buy an edible (not lacquered) chile rista. The individual chile would be boiled in water, the water and stems discarded. Then she would fill the blender with garlic, salt, pepper, cumin, and oregano; blend it; strain it to catch seeds and skin; and pour the mixture into a pot and let it simmer. It would then be reduced or thickened with a cornstarch roux and served as a gravy. Some people sauté onions or garlic separately. There would appear to be as many variations as there are cooks.
The flavor of the New Mexican red chile can also be found in powder form, but to bring out the flavor, it needs to be bloomed, much like curry powder, by sautéing it first in oil.
Hatch chile have gained renown largely through a marketing program sponsored by the State of New Mexico. Why Hatch, New Mexico when chile are grown all along the Rio Grande? Hatch simply had a lot of land available!
The fame of the Hatch chile is what most people are most familiar with. The success of the New Mexican pepper has led to wannabe competitors. One town, Hatch, Colorado has tried to cash in on the growing popularity of Hatch chile by (legally) marketing peppers grown in Colorado as “Hatch Chile”. But only chile grown in New Mexico, and particularly the Rio Grande Valley, have the authentic flavor profile so prized.
The food at San Francisco Bar and Grill was simple New Mexican food: Chicken Enchiladas served with yellow rice and beans. And red chile sauce. And, of course, a most perfect margarita, made with good tequila, a nice squeeze of lime and lemon, and house made lemonade as a sweetener rather than triple sec.
Traditional New Mexican food
As we ate, Carlos continued with his tale.
Leaving New Mexico, he explained, was kind of a blessing in disguise because it took leaving to appreciate that the rich history, the culture and the food simply doesn’t exist elsewhere. And sure enough, the Enchanted Land of Entrapment worked its magic, and thankfully for us, Carlos returned to his roots.
***
Santacafe
Santacafe has indoor and outdoor courtyard dining during the warmer months
The Santa Fe restaurant scene is diverse, with everything from pan-Asian to traditional New Mexican.
Santacafe started with famed chef Ming Tsai overseeing the kitchen and is a Santa Fe favorite for good reason. It’s low key elegance with little decor, the historic building and the farm fresh, creative food will bring you back again and again. Located at 231 Washington Avenue, just a few blocks from the Plaza, the house was built between 1857 and 1862 by Jose Manuel Gallegos, a controversial defrocked priest cum politician. The property has been used as a church, a brothel, government offices, and now a beloved local restaurant.
A sampling at Santacafe with Food Tour New Mexico
The restored property has a patio for summer dining as well as two deep wells, one in the outdoor courtyard and one in the bar. And naturally, there is a story behind this.
The original outdoor well was publicly accessible and given Jose Gallegos’ sometimes controversial activities, there was concern over the safety of the drinking water. So an interior well was also built. It was rediscovered after a fire in the property, and is now (with a plexiglass top to prevent any patrons from taking a spill down the forty foot drop) part of the bar area, as well as the lore of the historic property .
Inside the decor is intentionally minimalistic, so that the food takes center stage. Crisp white table cloths and glistening glasses await the diner. We started with a New Zealand Savignon Blanc which paired perfectly with a butternut squash soup, followed by Shiitake Mushroom & Cactus Spring Rolls w/ Southwestern Ponzu (a dipping sauce of soy, cilantro and red pepper flakes) and some Greek Salad, The ingredients are locally and carefully sourced and the attention to detail shows in every dish.
Bobby Morean, the owner since 1982, busily moves through the restaurant, making sure everything was perfect, from the homemade green chile bread and crackers, to the wine selection. His sense of fun and passion are intoxicating, as is the food. When in Santa Fe, this is a place to put on your dining list, either through the restaurant tour or on your own.
Owner Bobby Morean busily moving about at Santacafe
***
Eloisa
I have to say that I am thoroughly enjoying this Santa Fe restaurant tour with Food Tour New Mexico. The food is fabulous, the stories told by Carlos are too much fun, and the breadth and scope of places offers a wonderful sampling of the culinary range in “The City Different”.
Next up is Eloisa, located on the ground floor of the Drury Plaza Hotel. The hotel has been recently renovated. In previous incarnations, it has been a hospital, a nursing home, government offices, and the basement was used to store Indian artifacts for a while.
The entrance to Eloisa
It is also rumored to be haunted. Apparitions, voices and noises are said to inhabit the property.
But we experienced no such events. At least not on this day.
One enters through a foyer lined with from floor to ceiling with pictures of indigenous foods. The “Hall of History” is a fascinating photo homage to the indigenous food of several hundred years ago.
The “Hall of History” chronicles many of the indigenous foods of the New Mexican people
Some of the foods were familiar: fish, chicken, tamales. Others were more exotic: cactus, chile, prickly pears. And one was truly unique: Ants filled with honey nectar. The bloated ant pouches were allowed to harden and given to children as a sweet treat.
Ants filled with honey nectar
At this point after two previous stops, I have to admit that I’m slowing down a bit. But the food at Eloisa is not to be missed.
Blue corn muffins made without sugar have a natural sweetness from the flour. And accompanying them on our tasting menu is a Chile Relleno, stuffed with guyere cheese, mushroom, chorizo garbanzo and puree frise salad tossed in a vinagraitte. And the creative piece de resistance: Pastrami Tacos, made with spicy smoked beef, sauerkraut, pickled chiles, and ballpark mustard. Both served with a Spanish White wine.
Sugarless but sweet, blue corn muffins with chile butter
Pastrami taco and a cheese and mushroom stuffed enchilada
As if this weren’t enough, we were treated to a taste of the mole the kitchen was preparing to serve with a deconstructed salmon pot pie for dinner. And perhaps the mole would find its way into a chocolate ice cream desert as well.
The sauce was wonderful. And there were two bowls for the table, which meant leftovers. Dianne, another woman on the tour, looked at me. I looked back. We both smiled, and divided up the left over mole to take home.
***
Santa Fe Olive Oil and Balsamic Company
Balsamic vinegars as far as the eye can see at Santa Fe Olive Oil and Balsamic Company
Next stop on Food Tour New Mexico: Santa Fe Olive Oil and Balsamic Company where oil and balsamic vinegar come to dance. The selection is second to none and the range of vinegars will satisfy anyone’s palate, including locally inspired flavors such as prickly pear balsamic vinegar. It’s the prefect respite before desert.
Kakawa Chocolate House is just a bit off the beaten tourist path
Now I am not a big chocolate person. Some would consider this a character defect. But Kakawa has moved me closer to becoming a chocolate aficionado.
This is not your typical chocolatier. From their website:
“Our passion is authentic and historic drinking chocolates elixirs. Historic drinking chocolate elixirs include traditional Pre-Columbian, Mesoamerican, Mayan and Aztec drinking chocolate elixirs; 1600’s European drinking chocolate elixirs, Colonial American and Colonial Mexican drinking chocolate elixirs. Kakawa Chocolate House drinking chocolate elixirs are representative of these historic recipes and span the time period 1000 BC to the mid-1900s AD.”
Choose your chocolate!
The ultimate chocolate drink. Seriously.
Chocolate elixirs are listed on the board as you enter. We sampled several to choose a favorite. But equally amazing are the chocolate truffles. Dark chocolate and goat cheese rocked my boat. And there are dozens of combinations to choose from.
A goat cheese truffle at Kakawa Chocolate House. #Foodgasm
Kakawa is located on the Paseo de Peralta (the road that rings old Santa Fe) in a small house, just a bit off the tourist track. Make it a point to seek this place out. You’ll be glad you did.
***
Remember what I said about touristy things in Seattle? If sampling some great food in Santa Fe is of interest, Food Tour New Mexico is a must do.
Dinner restaurant tours in Santa Fe and Alburquerque are also available. More information on Food Tour New Mexico is available at www.FoodTourNewMexico.com.
It is my finale of Restaurant Week and art, flavor and elegance combine for a wonderful dining experience at Restaurant Martin.
Each dish is a still life. One almost hesitates to dive in.
Almost.
From the description of the dish on the menu, to the presentation at the table, Restaurant Martin dazzles.
If there is one word that captures the dining experience at Restaurant Martin it is passion. Passion for cooking, passion for the integrity of ingredients and passion for life. For life and food are inextricably intertwined in this adobe restaurant on the corner of Galisteo and Paseo de Peralta.
Art and a simple, clean decor welcome the diner at Restaurant Martin
Chef Martin attended the Culinary Institute of America and spent time in France. His quest for knowledge and inspiration is global and it’s reflected in his food.
Restaurant Martin opened in 2009 after the chef did stints in Europe and then in some of the best known restaurants in town: Geronimo’s, Inn of The Anasazi, and The Old House Restaurant. His work has been nominated for numerous awards including the prestigious James Beard Award.
Restaurant Martin resides in an old adobe house, updated, with simple white walls hung with art. There is also a bar should you have to wait a bit or should you be traveling solo. They even offer blonde Lillet, one of my all time favorite aperitifs from Podensac. Eighty five percent of the wines that make Lillet are from Bordeaux (Semillon for the Lillet Blanc and Merlot and rose for the red version of the wine). The remainder are citrus liqueurs (sweet orange peels from Spain and Morocco) and bitter green orange peels from Haiti. The combination is aged like a Bordeaux wine, in oak vats. With a bit of lemon peel, it is a perfect way to start a meal. This attention to quality and detail are everywhere.
Restaurant Martin’s clean lines beckon from the Paseo de Peralta
For Restaurant Week, here is Restaurant Martin’s menu:
Dinner Menu
$45 per person
Appetizer
Caesar Salad — Hearts of Romaine, Lemon-Anchovy Dressing Shaved Pecorino Cheese, Sourdough Crisp
Carmelized Apple Mille Feuille is a feast for the eyes as well as gastronomic soul
Molten Bittersweet Chocolate Cake steals the show
Of all the restaurants I was fortunate enough to visit this week, this was the standout.
Outside of Restaurant Week, if dinner seems a bit pricey, consider brunch or lunch. During good weather, patio dining offers the perfect opportunity to sample some of this amazing food en pleine air. Bring your iPhone, if not your paint brushes, because you will be inspired.
From Restaurant Martin’s website, meet the owners and get a behind the scenes glimpse of this much loved Santa Fe restaurant:
So it is that Restaurant Week comes to a close for another year.
Winter in Santa Fe is not crowded, and it can be cold and snowy. In my mind, it’s the perfect time to visit, to experience the magic of this adobe town nestled between two mountain ranges.
Good food knows no season, and I know no reason not to travel in winter.
Do put Restaurant Week in Santa Fe on your bucket list. I think you’ll be pleased you did.
(Restaurant week in Santa Fe is now past; but keep it in mind for your future travels. It’s a blast!)
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
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