St. Augustine is my kind of town, at least in October, with tourist traffic relatively light and the weather relatively cool.
It’s a combination of money, elegance and grace. Set, of course, against a history of Spanish conquest. With beautiful beaches and fresh ocean air.
St. Augustine History
St Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European established settlement in the U.S. That’s not to say it hasn’t been the subject of attacks, sieges, been burned to the ground, traded between the British and the Spanish, and then the Americans. Throw in a Civil War and an oil tycoon who decided to create a winter haven for the wealthy, and you have a town with a story.
St. Augustine was founded in 1565 by Pedro Menendez de Aviles who was named Florida’s first governor. The site would remain the capital of Spanish Florida for 200 years, despite being burned to the ground by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. In 1819 the Adams -Treaty Spain ceded the territory to the US.
This Florida city was a strategic part of navigating the New World and of protecting Spanish galleons in their gold trading routes between the New World and Old. As English settled territories further north, conflict was inevitable.
St. Augustine 1589
The history of St. Augustine is a fascinating read. The current masonry Fort Castillo de San Marcos was completed in 1695, partly as a result of the English presence in the area which threatened Spanish interests. The fort withstood the English onslaught of 1702, but the town was burned to the ground by the British. In 1740 the British had another failed attempt to take the port.
Artillery lined up at the Castillo de San Marcos in St. Augustine
In 1763 the Treaty of Paris ceded Florida To Great Britain in time for it to become a loyalist haven during the Revolutionary war. The second Treaty of Paris ceded Florida back to Spain. This possession would last from 1784-1821 when Florida became part of the US.
Got all that? Add in some Indian wars, the Civil War and whatnot, and this little town has had a stormy history of warfare and upheaval that goes back centuries.
Portrait of Henry Flager Source: Wikipedia
But all that would change when Henry Flagler entered the picture. Henry, co-founder of Standard Oil visited the area in 1883. He combined several small railways into the Florida East Coast Railway, built a bridge, and Florida was open for development.
Flagler’s vision was to create a wealthy enclave for winter escape. To that end he built two hotels, the Alcazar and the Ponce de Leon. For several years, Flagler put St. Augustine on the society map, but as the rail system extended south, so did the preferences of his clientele who headed towards warmer winter weather.
Flagler’s influence is felt everywhere in this coastal town. The town benefited enormously from his vision. Flagler College occupies the original Ponce de Leon Hotel and the Alcazar continues on.
The town itself is compact and very walkable. There is an Old Town Trolley that offers a good way to get the lay of the land. Should you do this, be sure to cruise by the St. Augustine Distillery at lunchtime. The restaurant is excellent and downstairs is a tour of the premises.
A helpful hint: the trolley usually stops off the main road. The stops are poorly marked on the map and often hard to find. Think off road when looking for the hop on, hop off stops.
11 Things To Do in St. Augustine:
Castillo de San Marcos
Castillo de San Marcos overlooking the harbor at St. Augustine
This fort was originally built in the 1600’s by the Spanish, both to protect the outbound Spanish galleons laden with gold and as a land based strong point to thwart English movement to the south. Fort hours are listed here.
While you are at the fort. take the time to go across the street to the visitors center. There is an excellent exhibit of St. Augustine history and a plaque marking the start of the Spanish trek westward to the other forts and missions in the southwest.
St. Augustine was the most eastward of the Spanish missions built to solidify Spanish control of territory and people, and to provide protection for the galleons carrying gold and silver back to Europe.
The Bridge of Lions
Looking westward across The Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine
The Carrera marble lions guard the bridge entrance.
The Bridge is named for the pair of marble Medici lions that guard the St. Augustine side of he bridge. These lions are copies of the ones in the Loggia Dei Lanzi in Florence.
The original bridge over the Intercoastal Waterway and Matanzas Bay to Anastasia Island was a simple wooden structure. It would be replaced by the efforts of Henry Rodenbaugh, an executive working for Henry Flagler’s Florida East coast Railway. The construction of the new bridge coincided with the 1920’s Florida land boom and cost ten times as much as other nearby bridges. The bridge would again be renovated starting in 2006 and reopening in 2010.
St. Augustine Distillery Co.
St. Augustine Distillery warehouse operations in the old Ice House
This company is housed in the historic 1907 FP&L Ice Plant which made commercial block ice over 100 years ago. The building is on the National Historic Register and part of Lincolnville.
Tours are free and start every half hour. Like distilleries in other areas, this is part of a national movement of distilling local premium small batch spirits. The upstairs restaurant not only showcases the distilled liquors from below, but has great ambiance and food.
Lincolnville
This section of St. Augustine, FL originally provided a neighborhood for African American workers. Today it’s a beautiful shaded neighborhood with wonderful architecture, within an easy walk of downtown St. Augustine.
Originally known as Little Africa, Lincolnville was established after the American Civil War in 1866. The area evolved as St. Augustine did. During Henry Flagler’s reign, the eastern boundary of Lincolnville was expanded to the Ponce de Leon Barracks at 172-180 Cordova Street, a significant historic building. During the late 19th and 20th centuries, workers from Flagler’s hotels lived here.
Today Lincolnville retains some of its original architecture. Some is run down; some is renovated. One local complained that it may be on the verge of being gentrified. I have no comment on that trend, but this area of town is a place one could live, in easy walking distance of all the charms of St. Augustine.
St. Augustine Lighthouse
The restored lighthouse on Anastasia Island.
The St. Augustine Lighthouse was built in 1874 on the site of an earlier tower built by the Spanish in the 16th century, located at the north end of Anastasia Island. The lighthouse owes its restoration to the Junior Service League of St. Augustine (JSL), which along with the Coast Guard were instrumental in gaining control of the restoration project. A 99 year lease was signed with the county for the keeper’s house and surrounding grounds, and a massive renovation project were started. Inclusion on the National Register is thanks in part to the considerable efforts of local preservationist and author Karen Harvey.
The Hotel Ponce de Leon (Flagler College)
Flagler College in St. Augustine is another legacy of Henry Flagler
This incredible baroque/moorish building was originally built by Henry Flagler as a resort –The Hotel Ponce de Leon–for his well to do clientele. It is said that a season’s stay cost the modern day equivalent of $100,000. Today it’s a four year liberal arts college offering 29 majors and a student led tour that’s rather interesting. It’s worth an hour of your time to get some insight into Henry Flagler’s flagship property.
The ceiling in the entry rotunda at Flagler College, originally built as the Hotel Ponce de Leon by Henry Flagler
The interior includes elaborate decor that welcome students and visitors alike. The dining room has over 70 Tiffany windows and there is actually a separate ladies waiting room just down the hallway. It is said that the women waited here while bills were settled, with the intent of keeping them ignorant of the financial side of things. Hmmmm….
Wander the Town
St. Augustine, FL is full of beautiful cobblestone streets perfect for wandering and exploring.
This is a small town and oh so walkable! Wander the streets. Try the restaurants. Rent a bicycle. Enjoy the off season ambiance of this beautiful and historic Florida town!
Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine
The restored interior of this church is breathtaking. Pictures don’t do it justice, but a visit would!
This is an 18th century cathedral that has been restored in beautiful detail. It was originally established in 1565 and re-built in the 18th century. It is the oldest church in Florida, with a combination of Spanish and neo-classical architecture.
Take the time to stop in. It’s an integral part of St. Augustine history. The church is located at Cathedral Street between Charlotte and St. George Streets. It was constructed over five years (1793–1797), and was designated a U.S.National Historic Landmarkon April 15, 1970.
St. Augustine Cemeteries
Religious tensions showed in many ways. Here a Huguenot cemetery speaks to past social differences and tensions.
Visiting a cemetery may sound boring or even odd, but actually burial grounds offer a unique look at the people and culture of an area, at a point in time. In St. Augustine, for example, the Huegenots and the Catholics have separate burial areas, pointing to the role of religion in the social strata and evolution of this early city.
Dining and Snacking in St. Augustine
So many restaurants from which to choose! Mayan, New Orleanian and simple costal food mingle together to create a very nice dining experience for nearly everyone.
I’m not going to single out any one restaurant, but there is one foodie place that you must stop.
Ready?
Don’t laugh too hard!
Ms.-I-don’t-eat-sugar-on-my-anticancer-diet (yours truly) highly recommends (drum roll please!): The Hyppo for over 450 amazing popsicle flavors like Bourbon Peach, Sangria Plum and more! Sweetening is via fresh cane juice (i.e., sugar! Which is decidedly NOT on an anti-cancer diet!)
Stop in and treat yourself. The amazing flavors are available for shipping as well.
Lodging
Nine houses in this enclave create a luxury setting, complete with gardens, a pool and a restored garage that has become an evening cocktail hangout.
Perhaps one way to convey the utter charm of this coastal enclave is to share the place I stayed, The Collector. On the one hand I want to rave about this amazing find. On the other hand, I’m afraid it will become so popular that I’ll never get in again!
The recently renovated Collector is just that: the legacy of Mr. Kenneth Dow’s collections. It started with his collections of mostly European art and then Mr. Dow moved on to collecting houses. Each house in the enclave has its own story and history that is interwoven with that of the town. The entire property has been fully restored and is open for business as a luxury enclave. And it is simply fantastic.
One of the many art pieces that are on the grounds of The Collector.
This unique inn is a collection of nine historic houses spanning from 1790-1910. A tour is available most mornings, and it’s worth doing, both to see all the houses and understand a bit of the story behind each. Given the age of many of the houses, The Collector is a microcosm of the history of St. Augustine itself, told through the stories of the people and situations that evolved around each house.
The houses on this property include:
Daily tours of The Collector are available. Take one! The history behind this enclave is astonishing.
Star General Store 1899-1904
Canova/De Medici House 1840-1898
Caprenter’s House 1901
Dow House 1839
Prince Murat House 1790 (This house tracks back to Napoleon’s nephew!)
William Dean Howells House 1907
Rose House 1909
Spear House 1899-1903
Worcester House 1906
Each house has been lovingly restored and furnished with art and furniture from Mr. Dow’s collections. The property is stunning and includes The Well House, a former garage, now an evening watering hole for property’s guests. Outside are fire pits with Adirondack chairs where one can meet and share a few stories with fellow travelers.
This restored garage doubles as a bar on the property. Evenings, with the fire pits lit, guests can stop in for a glass of wine or a cocktail, before or after dinner.
This stay in St. Augstine was far too brief. I had the feeling that this was a place I could settle into for a bit and just enjoy the people, the town and the weather before the onslaught of the snowbirds. But the itinerary had several fixed dates, so onwards, and south it was.
Central America is about to become part of CancerRoadTrip! My wanderlust took me from Florida to a cruise through Key West, Costa Rica, Honduras, Panama, Mexico and Columbia. And each locale has a story to be told.
The posts will start appearing shortly. But simultaneously, I’ll be writing from New Mexico where I’m staying through the end of January. I’ve visited “The Enchanted Land” numerous times before and it never disappoints. This trip has started no differently.
Serendipity, as usual, led me to an unexpected adventure. It started with leaving westbound Route 40, where I turned north. Not far down the road, the sun appeared. The fields glowed gold, the mountains purple, speckled with the green of pinion trees. There is something special about the light and feel of New Mexico and I’m looking forward to some time here.
I’ve spent time in New Mexico in the past, including during the year I traveled with Whiskey Oscar. Those stories will no doubt be woven into the current tales because it seems that in life, life tends to circle about, albeit in new ways.
This trip I stopped at a Visitor’s Information Center. I had several days on my hands until my AirBnB in Santa Fe would be available. Where would I go?
“Have you ever been to Las Vegas?” the woman behind the desk asked.
“Nevada?”
“New Mexico.”
“No.”
So it was I set my course for Las Vegas, NM where I stayed at the Plaza Hotel, which is complete with two resident ghosts. Las Vegas is a small town, and an enchanting one. Stay tuned for tales about people and community; about renovation and history.
You’ll also start seeing a Gallery section on the site menu shortly. These photo galleries provide a way for me to share more of the pictures from my travels.
So, dear reader, you’ll need a bit of mental dexterity to jump from Florida to Central America to northern New Mexico. Or perhaps not! Just enjoy the journey. I plan to!
And ask yourself: What’s on your bucket list?
Carpe diem!
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I love a road trip. Having what you need at hand, with impossible possibilities ahead. It’s my kind of adventure.
For the next month, I’ll be traveling. The trip starts in Houston where I meet up with a friend. The itinerary for the first two weeks is Houston to New Orleans; St. Augustine; Ft. Lauderdale; and Miami. After that, stay tuned!
The first half of this road trip is from Houston to Miami
I’ll be posting here (in a delayed fashion). To keep up to date, please follow me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram where I’ll be posting daily pictures and videos. You can also follow many of the posts at Anti-CancerClub on Facebook.
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Have a good laugh, but now follow me for an updated Irish food experience that leaves this antiquated perspective far, far behind.
Ireland is in the midst of a food revolution. It’s roots are deep in history and in local culture, led by pioneering people creating, crafting and growing luscious food products. From Dublin to the countryside, Ireland is reinventing its culinary future, one farm and one food at a time.
The food aspect of travel is (obviously) always on my agenda. And I was fortunate enough to meet some of the people making it happen in Ireland, on the Beara Peninsula.
This trip is a feast for your eyes, your stomach and your soul. Don’t neglect any of them. Let’s start with some pictures from the drive over Healy Pass between Killarney and Castletownbere .
Looking back down the roadway towards Killarney from Healy Passis a spectacular view of green lands, blue seas and towering mountains.You’ll note the road is not very wide.
The winding road from Killarney to the Beara Peninsula
View of Castletownbere, the second largest fishing port in Ireland.
The N 71 from Killarney is a beautiful drive that becomes more rural with each passing kilometer. Small winding roads and green hedges punctuated by occasional sweeping vistas mark the drive to my first stop at Kenmare, about 32 kilometers from Killarney. Our trip, part of the TBEX conference, was arranged by Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours. Kay Woods was our knowledgeable director.
A steeple in Kenmare.
Kenmare is a lovely town not far from Killarney. We stopped briefly and while others wandered the town, I found myself drawn to a small booth where Francis Brennan, a local photographer by way of Dublin was displaying his wares. Chatting led to questions about why was I in Ireland. I responded with the abbreviated story of CancerRoadTrip–of how cancer led to betrayal which led to CancerRoadTrip. And in Ireland, as elsewhere, I found a resounding response to the idea of the overall CancerRoadTrip project.
As the topic of cancer is broached, there is almost always a slight pause in the conversation, an awkwardness before the stories start to pour out. Everyone has a cancer story: a friend, a family member, someone in their circle. Everyone feels the emotion, helplessness and void generated by this disease. The universal, heart felt response to the impact of cancer on all of our lives moves with CancerRoadTrip as I travel. Sometimes I think I should simply write all these stories, rather than the travelogue. What’s your cancer story?
But on with the adventure. Because a foodie adventure is what life is all about!
Francis Brennan, a local photographer specializing in black and white photos of the local area.
Kenmare lies on two noted Irish tourist routes, the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. Kenmare is an anglicized form of CeannMara, meaning “head of the sea”, referring to the head of Kenmare Bay. It’s a perfect jumping off point for more local exploration and we are accompanied by Andrew Heath of Manning’s Emporium .
Manning’s Emporium traces its roots back to a family farm back in the 1940’s. In the 1970’s, Val Manning started the shop to support local producers. It’s grown and is now under that ownership of his niece Laura and her husband Andrew Heath. It’s “a bustling food store, cafe and tapas bar specialising in local and artisan produce” that has won numerous awards including ‘The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland’ Guide by John and Sally McKenna, ‘Top Choice’ Cafe in the Lonely Planet Guide Bantry Section, and was named as the 2017 winner of the Restaurant Association Awards for ‘Best Casual Dining in Cork’. Andrew also offers customized food tours. He is a walking encyclopedia of Irish food sources and we were lucky enough to have him join us for most of the trip.
After our brief stop in Kenmare, we headed to Castletownbere, a coastal fishing village which just happens to be home to the All Irish Chowder Champion.
The bus we are traveling is a small one. It is a small group. And the roads are winding and narrow. Going over Healy Pass there is just room for one vehicle. Meeting another head on at speed would definitely be problematic.
Entering Castletownbere, the sea becomes an integral part of the scenery. The town is quiet and even bit sleepy. The sun plays hide and seek with a low cloud base, causing the water to sparkle briefly here and there before it disappears.
The temperate climate allows seemingly exotic trees like palm trees to thrive along the Irish coast.
The town is named after the MacCarty Castle which no longer stands. It’s also called Castletown berehaven. Like other rural parts of Ireland, the population is small. Declining population in a rural setting is a theme that comes up repeatedly during the day.
In Castletownbere we visit with Mark Johnson at The Beara Coast Hotel for a lesson in making his specialty, THE Irish award winning chowder. Mark talks about the process of making the chowder as well as the importance of having access to the finest, freshest ingredients. And Irish cream. Lots of Irish cream!
(You may want to turn up the volume on your computer for this video.)
From the carefully simmered white fish stock to the freshly caught fish selections, to the local Irish cream, the freshness of the ingredients comes through. This chowder is a total winner.
Accompanying the chowder was a seaweed scone that was nothing short of remarkable. The slightly salty taste of the seaweed flecks embedded in the rich pastry dough, slathered with Irish butter, paired with seafood chowder, totally rocks.
Seaweed is becoming a “thing” in Ireland, led by John Fitzgerald at Atlantic Irish Seaweed located in Derrynane on the Ring of Kerry. The culinary use of seaweed dates back to 6th century monks and Ireland, by virtue of its extensive Atlantic coast, is home to over 625 varieties. John is part scientist and educator and he offers seaside discovery tours that take you foraging through the rocky coast in quest of the perfect seaweed.
The next stop is Beara Distillery which had just opened Saturday September 20th 2017. Beara Distillery uses a unusual ingredient–seawater– in their recipe for this lovely, light, fragrant botanical gin.
This artisanal gin uses a two step production process to infuse local botanicals into the base, resulting in a light, botanical flavor.
From their website:
“The Beara Peninsula’s Wild Atlantic Shore is host to an abundance of unusual botanicals and that was how the idea of Beara Ocean Gin was born.
The Atlantic Ocean Botanicals we use in our Gin include Salt water and Sugar Kelp that balance with the freshness of Juniper and Zesty Citrus Aromas. While Cardamom, Angelica and Orris root add complexity.
The result is a unique blend of native sea Flora with traditional botanicals for an altogether enjoyable and easy drinking Gin.”
Easy drinking indeed! They make a base gin with juniper and traditional flavorings. Then individual distillates (fuchsia, sugar kelp and the zest) are added. Purified sea water brings the concentration to a legal threshold and voila! A magical gin.
***
Award Winning Milleen’s Cheese
Millen’s award winning cheese
Up next is a very special visit to a very special farm that produces a very special cheese (I presume that you are getting the drift that this is a real find): Milleen’s Cheese.
Norman Steele talking about the history of Milleen’s
Milleen’s is a family farm started by Norman and Veronica Steele. The cottage includes a sitting room, where we had a buffet lunch. The sitting room is accessed by an outdoor walkway from the main cottage. It’s an organic family farm focused on producing cheeses of exceptional quality. They were “discovered” by Declan Ryan, a one Michelin star Irish chef of some renown from Cork.
The decision to make cheese came about almost by accident. With a growing family, a cow was added. But it was too much milk for a small family, no matter how much yogurt one made. So began the cheese experiment, which led to the cow herd, which led to the 1997 award of Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards.
Sadly, Norman’s beloved wife Veronica died fairly recently, but his son is stepping up into the family business. And they just hired a new cheesecake apprentice. It’s a job I’d be tempted to take on!
Norman is a delightful man who enjoys telling his story. Here’s Norman telling a bit of the history of his farm and subsequent fame:
A significant part of the farm’s story is based on the intense connection between the Milleen’s and their land. The farm is organic and the purity of the environment is a key piece to the quality of the cheese. Norman’s son, Quinlan, is a vocal advocate for the organic life. Much of his argument, for me, is deeply familiar. Knowing what goes into your food–how and where it is produced; the chemicals, if any, used in production; and the impact of time to market are very real and very important factors. Next time you reach for some food, stop and wonder: Where is it from and how did it get to you? What are you really eating? Think on it a bit.
Here are a few pictures from the farm:
The view from Milleen’s Cheese
An old stone barn wall alongside original farmhouse.
Norman’s son Quinlan is slowly taking over the cheese operations at Milleen’s.
Cheeses aging in the old stone house at Milleen’s.
Kush Shellfish, Kenmare
100% organic mussels from Kush Shellfish
Kush Shellfish is Ireland’s first organic rope mussels producer, with operations in Kenmare Bay in a Special Area of Conservation (designated under the European Union Habitats Directive) off the south west coast of Ireland. They export to many countries, including the U.S. under the name of Saint Patrick Shellfish. In addition to the shellfish, their exports include their Mussel Soup which is a rich, thick vegetable based soup, hearty enough for an Irish winter’s day. We were also lucky enough to have a bowl of simple steamed mussels that was absolutely outstanding. Fresh from the sea, tender, and perfectly cooked.
The mussels are raised using a rope or bouchot method, which is a French method of cultivating mussels in tidal zones. Pilings, known as bouchots in French, are planted at sea, with a spiraling rope wound about them. Mesh netting may be added to prevent the mussels from falling off. They may be harvested by hand or by machine.
Once again, the emphasis is on working with the environment. Mussels feed on phytoplankton and microscopic marine algae which are in natural abundance in the tidal zone, The purity of the environment, in turn, produces a remarkable product.Do make it a point to enjoy some of these mussels should you find yourself in the Kenmare area.
Whether it’s goat cheese in the Pacific Northwest or mussels in Ireland, the common and consistent denominator in my foodie forays is the freshness of the environment in which the food is raised and the consummate care of the artisans that raise it. From farm to table may on the verge of becoming a cliche, but from Beara to table is a total and remarkable delight. Be sure to put Beara peninsula on your culinary map and contact either Andrew Heath or Kay Woods at Con Moriarty’s Hidden Ireland Tours for a more personalized and knowledgeable visit.
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The poetic image of oceans, paired with Ireland, conjures up smells of salt and brine. A cool, damp breeze and perhaps an intermittent bracing rain. But for me, the mere mention of the seas suggests the possibility of oysters.
Oysters seem to follow me in my travels. This is not intentional on my part. I consider it to be culinary travel karma. And Ireland did not disappoint.
The singing oyster at the Guinness Storehouse I could have done without. (Seriously, a singing oyster. I have it on film, but I’m not sure I can bear to watch it again.) But the Glenbeigh Shellfish oysters I couldn’t pass up. More on that later in the post.
The majority of the food during my short trip to Dublin and Killarney was simply good pub food. But the next post–the culinary piece de resistance!–will take us deep into the Beara Peninsula where we meet some of the movers and shakers transforming the Irish culinary scene. Stay tuned.
Dublin Fare
Pubs
The Temple Bar is a famous Dublin pub named after the founder of the area Temple Bay, Sir William Temple.
On the pub side, on a purely tourist level, one eats well. Pub forays were by chance; we stopped when we were hungry. I missed dining at some of the more famous pubs, but I think of it as just saving them for the next trip.
Temple Bar is a fairly famous pub that stands out in the neighborhood founded by it’s namesake, Sir William Temple (1555-1627). In the 1600’s, Barr (shortened over time to ‘Bar’) usually meant a raised sandbank. Thus the Liffey embankment alongside the Temple property became known as Temple Bar. This name was passed along to become the name of the entire section of town, from Westmoreland Street to Fishamble Street.
In spite of the tempting oyster sign in the window, I did not dine here. The sign taunted me, but for whatever reason, this was not in my culinary karma. Rest assured it’s on my return list for the fall of 2018.
While in Ireland, my personal dining strategy was to stay as healthy as possible. I believe that what we eat matters. I’m essentially a fish eating vegetarian by preference and I like to know where my food comes from. Normally I opt for low glycemic food choices, but frankly, for a few days, I was seduced by Irish bread, beer and scones. And I enjoyed every bit of it.
A pub on the corner, not far from the elusive Dublin Castle (see previous post), was our first jet lagged lunch. Fish and chips. And Guinness. The fish and chips were very well prepared, if a tiny bit overcooked and under seasoned. Perhaps I am probably being a bit picayune on these details, but the wee-est bit of salt sprinkled as the fish came out of the fryer would have made a massive difference in the taste.
Another day we wandered into Bad Bob’s, in Temple Bar. The pub lays at least partial claim to the invention of Irish coffee. The tale weaves into the history of aviation and provides a most satisfying story. From their website:
A Supermarine Southhampton Flying Boat-Flying boats are part of the story of Irish coffee in Dublin and beyond! Picture Source: Wikipedia
“The traditional storyline goes that Foynes, which in the 1930s and 40s existed as the ‘Flying Boat’ hub between Europe and the United States, engaged in a prestigious world of hospitality to entertain the wealthy American and Canadian passengers who travelled across the Atlantic. During the winter of 1943 an American Airlines flight bound for New York via Botwood, Newfoundland, returned to the base at Foynes owing to inclement weather and hazardous flying conditions. The passengers disembarked frightened, fatigued and frozen, requesting warm food and restorative drink. It was at this point that Joe Sheridan secured his moment of fame and earned his place in the history of world liqueurs by serving Irish Coffees to the stricken passengers. When one passenger queried: “Is this Brazilian Coffee?” Joe Sheridan is reputed to have replied: “No, this is Irish Coffee.” -Bad Bob’s, How It All Began
My salmon and Guinness at Bad Bob’s in Dublin, Ireland
The food at Bad Bob’s was what I call “Dublin good”. That means tasty and well prepared. Ann had a braised lamb shank she loved. I ordered salmon which came perched upon a massive amount of potatoes. And the spuds were perfectly seasoned, with simply salt, pepper and parsley (and, of course, Irish butter), and a drizzle of sauce undoubted laced with more butter and cream.
The Guinness, of course, was perfect. Guinness as Usual, as the Irish say, and they are right.
The Conrad Hotel in Dublin
The Conrad Hotel, Dublin, Ireland
On the culinary front, our Dublin Hotel, The Conrad, was a real standout. It easily surpassed the typical notion of a hotel restaurant and exceeded any and all expectations one might bring to the table.
Morning breakfast (which was included in the cost of the room) was truly outstanding.
The Conrad’s Dublin breakfast buffet include fresh fruit as well as decadent pastries, cheeses and meats.
While I’ve become a green tea drinker (green tea is rich in EGCG which has been shown to inhibit tumor cell growth and invasiveness) I succumbed to the incredible aroma and smooth taste of the dark roasted coffee, served in individual French presses for each table.
The smell of perfectly roasted darkish coffee alone would bring many people to their knees in the wee hours of the morning, but the buffet table has almost the same effect. Eggs cooked to order along with a buffet of Irish specialties including smoked fish, cheese, sausages (hot and cold), cereals, fresh fruit, pastries, potatoes, baked tomatoes and were laid out with great care. And each and every item was excellent. Personally I became enamored of perfectly cooked poached eggs with a bit of Irish smoked salmon and broiled tomato.
Plus of course, a bit of toasted grainy Irish bread. The bread (not part of my normal diet!) was necessary because poised at the end of one long table in the breakfast room was an entire honeycomb, served with a spoon for scooping the honeycombed goo onto your plate. Soft, sweet and succulent. In tea, on bread or scones. Or just sneaked on a spoon for sheer delight.
Breakfast at the Conrad in Dublin included a honeycomb! You can scoop out your own fresh honey. Apply liberally!
On the sideboard are a variety of cheeses, meats and fish for this Irish breakfast in Dublin.
Breakfast pastries at the Conrad, Dublin. I did indulge in a scone-YUM! Paired with honey, it’s Irish heaven.
One night, too tired to walk another step, we opted to dine at the Conrad restaurant which was once again excellent. Fresh, gorgeous mussels, seasoned wth dill and perfectly cooked, with a welcomed glass of wine. The food at the Conrad was very, very good.
Perfectly cooked mussels in wine and dill in Dublin, Ireland, Conrad Hotel.
In Dublin, the standout dinner was at The Winding Stair. It’s comfort food, Irish style, all locally sourced. This emphasis on local food is a serious movement in Ireland, one which we’ll have a chance to explore in some depth in my next post.
Here are the comforting, fabulous, locally sourced dishes of The Winding Stair located at 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin :
Dining in Dublin, this simple dish of potted crab in butter was served with dark Irish bread…need one say more?
Sweet, tender, and oh so fresh cockles and mussels steamed and served. Dark bread slathered in Irish butter on the side. Yes, please! And some potatoes in the background.
For Dublin dining, my dinner partner opted for local lamb, perfectly cooked and wonderfully succulent. Don’t forget the potatoes!
The only disappointment was the restaurant for which I had the most hope, Dylan McGraths’s Taste At Rustic . Dylan is an award winning chef, highly regarded in Ireland. He was the owner of Mint, a Michelin one star restaurant which was forced to close as a result of the economic downturn in 2008. His response in 2010 was to open Rustic Stone, a restaurant that features seasonal, local produce. He has several other restaurants including Raw, Brasserie Sixty6, Fade Street Social and Taste at Rustic where we ate.
I mentioned this experience in a previous post. No need to beat a dead horse with this less than stellar review.
Dining in Killarney
Taking the train from Dublin to Killarney, I opted to pick up a bottle of water and a vegetarian sandwich at one of the station’s vendors. The sandwich was very good, and it was a good move. The food options on the train were very limited. While some train travel offers a dining car and good meal options, the train to Killarney did not.
Once we arrived in Killarney, time was tight. The TBEX Conference started early each morning, with speakers and workshops, followed by networking sessions. Mornings we dined at the Brehon Hotel where we enjoyed a stellar breakfast. I fell into the habit of ordering perfectly poached eggs with a bit of sautéed spinach, and indulging in some fruit and a scone from the buffet. All this was included in the price of the room.
Lunches in Killarney were generally catered as part of the conference. They always offered a fish option, for which I was very thankful.
Evenings were a confluence of social events and networking. The only free night outside the conference schedule was the first night where we visited the Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar and Larder, for excellent food and an Irish Whiskey tasting (see previous post).
Failte Ireland and TBEX hosted an excellent conference. The opening event was held at the Killarney racetrack, where we were treated to an array of local food vendors including local whiskey distillers, bread makers, dairies, and more importantly, oysters!
Glenbeigh oysters were the star of the opening evening festivities, in my humble opinion! Photo by Charlotte Coneybeer on Unsplash
We wandered through the stables, where the purveyors were stationed in the horse stalls, sampling, drinking and eating. Glenbeigh Shellfish, a County Kerry based seafood vendor, naturally caught my eye.
Glenbeigh Shellfish is a family run business raising Cromane Mussels, Pacific (Gigas) & Native Flat Oysters, Local Wild Cockles & Periwinkles. They are located in Glenbeigh between Cromand and Rossbeigh on the scenic Ring of Kerry and Wild Atlantic Way, on the southwest coast of Ireland. Their shellfish comes from from Cromane in Castlemaine Harbour and from west Cork.
The company was founded 1994 by Noel and Patricia Riordan, a husband and wife team. Noel and Patricia stock native Irish Flat Oysters sourced from Fenit Harbor in Tralee Bay. It’s a rare species only available from October to February (to protect the oyster stock). The oysters are particularly precious in that they are natural oysters, farmed. Were these oysters to disappear, there is nothing to replace them. They are truly a culinary resource. Should you get to Ireland, track down these oysters. They are worth the hunt.
To guide you in your culinary quests, TasteKerry promotes native foods in County Kerry and offers a downloadable app that guides the visitor through a variety of local food specialties.
But back to the oyster story.
Noel and Patricia brought their marvelous oysters. Most of the oysters are exported to France and Spain. I was told that in Ireland they are largely an unknown resource.
Beautiful, fresh, briny, cool oysters from Tralee Bay. Platter after platter of freshly harvested oysters. Let’s just say I had dinner in that stall that night, compliments of Glenbeigh Shellfish!
***
One of our last evenings we met up with a blogging group at a Hobbit Middle Earth themed pub called The Shire. The chance to share an evening with some of the special and fascinating people at this conference was truly priceless.
Old and new friends In Killarney, Ireland, from TBEX.
Meeting people while traveling is special. You are bonded by an exotic locale and the traditional means of connecting often aren’t relevant. Instead, one tells stories, travel stories, and through these adventures we find our commonalities and share our dreams.
May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Killarney is located southwest of Dublin, not far from the coast.
The purpose behind the trip to Ireland was to attend a TBEX event in Killarney. So after a few days in Dublin, it was off to Killarney to attend the meeting. Killarney is located in the south western quadrant of the island and is a perfect jumping off point for further exploration.
TBEX is a travel bloggers exchange. They hold periodic meetings in various locales across the world. This year, in Ireland, Failte Ireland who was one of the hosts of the meeting, realized over 3 billion impressions from the convergence of over 600 bloggers into the Killarney area. Wow! Social media truly rocks!
The train between Killarney and Dublin, Ireland.
Dublin to Killarney: Train Travel
To get to from Dublin to Killarney, we took the train. There are two train stations in Dublin. Make note of this and be sure you’re heading to the right one! We left from the Heuston station, and changed in Mallow for the final hour into Killarney. The ticket times were tight on the transfer–just minutes. But not to worry. It’s just a few steps across the platform and the train is waiting for the on boarding passengers. Once you’re out of Dublin, the train stations are small, so don’t be afraid to navigate this system, even with tight connection times, from point to point.
The Irish rail system offers reserved seats that can be purchased on line or at the train station kiosk before boarding. Be sure to opt for the reservations. You’ll be greeted by an electronic sign with your name, over your seat. Failing to do this means that you may be wondering from car to car looking for a seat.
You can also book your tickets on-line directly through IrishRail or by using RailEurope. RailEurope is an American oriented interface that standardizes the various rail systems for easy booking. It’s a few dollars more, but more than worth it in terms of the time and effort saved in deciphering various railway systems and options.
I love train travel. You can kick back; watch the scenery go by; read; chat with fellow passengers–whatever suits you. Here are some pictures from the train:
Gathering speed as we leave the station en route from Dublin to Killarney.
The Irish countryside really is this pretty. Wait ’til we get to the coast!
Cars lined up on the “wrong side” of the road as the train goes on its route.
Killarney
Killarney is something of a tourist destination. It’s a beautiful small town, populated by pubs and shops full of Irish sweaters and, of course, Irish whiskey. Our short Irish whiskey foray in Dublin, turned into an introduction to the owner of The Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar and Larder in Killarney. And into an evening of sampling a greatly under appreciated resource of this island.
An Irish whiskey tasting in Killarney was a fascinating experience.
A wee bit of food with the whiskey! This plate of local cheeses totally rocked!
I think the thing that stunned me the most was the range of whiskeys. The care in crafting a wide range of flavors ranging from light and even fruity (Writer’s Tears, my personal favorite) to a peaty blend, such as Connemara was evident. Whiskies can be aged in a variety of different types of barrels, including barrels from port and sherry. Each imparts a unique flavor profile to the amber liquid.
As an aside, the Celtic Irish Whiskey Bar also had excellent food. We ordered a cheese plate, crab cakes and some sublime sautéed mushrooms on buttered, toasted Irish bread. Definitely something to toast! (Oh no, is that another bad pun/play on words?)
The days in Killarney focused on TBEX: Networking, learning, establishing new relationships. Part of my TBEX experience was a foodie foray to the Beara Peninsula, south of Killarney, which I’ll cover in a separate post.
The Wild Atlantic Way winds its way along the scenic Atlantic coast of Ireland. Source: WildAtlanticWay.com
Killarney offers a great central base for exploring the area and driving the Wild Atlantic Way. There are six regions to explore. From the northern end of the island westward to the southern tip, they are:
-Northern Headlands
-The Surf Coast
-The Bay Coast
-The Cliff Coast
-The Southern Peninsulas, and
-The Haven Coast.
For the southern portion, consider Killarney as a wonderfully civilized base camp.
In Killarney we stayed at the Brehon Hotel. It was excellent. The staff was helpful; the breakfasts, once again, were great. Eggs were cooked to order if you requested it and the breakfast buffet had everything one could wish for, and then some. The Brehon is located slightly out of town which was convenient for the TBEX meeting, but did involve a short cab ride to get into Killarney proper.
All the food at the Brehon bar was excellent. I had a flatbread with tomato and cheese, topped with herbs and a balsamic drizzle; wonderful tomato-lentil soup; and a crab plate that was simultaneously sweet, lively and succulent. Here is a look at the Brehon:
The Brehon Entrance (Photo credit: Ann Cavitt Fisher)
The Brehon Lobby (Photo credit: Ann Cavitt Fisher)
Crab at the Brehon Bar (Photo credit: Yours Truly. All photos are my own unless otherwise noted)
Evening, the town takes on a welcoming glow:
Killarney, Ireland as night falls.
A barrista making a perfect cup of coffee, or perhaps tea!
The Main Street of Killarney is lined with banners welcoming the blogger of TBEX. I guess 600+ people were kind of a big deal!
TBEX Ireland 2017
Our hosts, including Failte Ireland (Gaelic for “Welcome Ireland”), made sure our visit was perfect. For a welcoming event, we congregated at the raceway, where local food vendors were positioned in the stalls to provide a sampling of Irish tastes. The racetrack itself was beautiful, with cloud shrouded mountains forming the backdrop. We were treated to a parade of up and coming race horses and a bit of equine education. Another evening we met at a series of local pubs. The entire TBEX experience in Ireland was so terrific that a group of us are planning an extended trip in the Fall of 2018. Here are a few of the scenes from this year’s foray to Killarney.
The Killarney Racetrack at sundown as the TBEX festivities started.
The horses at Killarney Racetrack
Equine instruction at the racetrack from a real pro!
Cathedral in Killarney.
Pubs and restaurants abound in Killarney.
Irish music greeted us as we arrived in Killarney for our closing night on the town.
Let me close this post with my incredible enthusiasm for this island nation. I am looking forward to returning for a month in the Fall of 2018. Stay tuned for…
Up next: The food experience and revolution in Ireland, including a remarkable meeting with the people that are leading the Irish food movement in the Beara Peninsula.
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Perhaps it is necessary to shed any English vestiges to properly embark on an Irish tour. Perhaps it is metaphoric; time to leave behind remnants of my past. Goodness knows my Burberry has travelled with me through many times.
It’s perfect for that in between travel, with its button-in liner. It’s incredibly practical and classic. I’ve worn it for years, to many places and events. I remember going to a private equity meeting at the Union League in Philadelphia (an institution that wouldn’t allow women through the doors when I was in school) and having a young woman coo over my semi-antique piece of apparel.
“It’s sooo classic,” she said, taking my coat.
It is. Or rather, it was.
At any rate, it is gone.
“What you leave behind says as much about you as what you bring along.” –Jacquelyn Middleton
A part of me is relieved in an odd sort of way. It’s a coat that makes a statement. Is it the statement I want to make these days? I search for the zen in the experience and move on. I want to enjoy Ireland not fret over a piece of cloth.
Except for a brief stopover in Shannon years ago, this is my first visit to Ireland. The purpose of the trip is part work, part play. But then writing a blog so elegantly combines both! The schedule is three days in Dublin, followed by four in Killarney, then back to Dublin for the flight back to the States.
Ireland appears as a green island in the Atlantic, off the wing of the plane.
Landing over the green hills of Ireland into Dublin Airport, one is greeted by cow pastures alongside the runway. Green runway lights are scattered like gems across the tarmac. Ireland immediately has a good feel.
And that just continues. The people are friendly; architecture and history permeate every address; and the pubs are placed at every corner and then some. It is said that someone once managed to lay a route across Dublin that managed to not pass a single pub. But the route took hours to complete. And why would one even bother?
Dublin Ireland, overlooking the Liffey River
Dublin is a city of just half a million people, with another 1.5 million in the greater area. It’s history is steeped in centuries of conquest and strife. From the invading Vikings, Scots and Brits; the famine An Gorta Mór which struck the country during 1845–49 causing a historic and deadly potato blight; to the massive property collapse of 2008; the Irish seem to have transcended so much difficulty.
Literary history is deeply entrenched in Irish life. Signs throughout town boast wonderful Oscar Wilde sayings, such as
Irish Adventures
and the list goes on…
His keen Irish wit continues to amuse more than a century after his death. Wilde and other literary figures and references abound in pubs, in museums and in libraries. In Trinity College Library, busts of famous writers line the book stalls. Literature and history intermingle throughout Dublin culture.
Bust of famous writers are displayed on both sides of this amazing library, in homage to the history of literature.
This mural from a pub in Dublin offers quotes from some Ireland’s favorite writers.
Night life in Dublin.
Dublin is a young town, with a dynamic night life, which I experienced vicariously from my bed my last evening in town, as the nightclub near Harrington Hall rang on into the early morning hours. But that night was also a night of celebration. Dublin’s 2-0 win over Moldova set up the Gaelic football team to compete in Cardiff, Wales where a win would mean qualifying for the World Cup.
Irish football, as explained by one enthusiastic cabby, focuses on drinking with friends, then sitting side by side in the stadium, regardless of which teams they might root for. It’s also a brutal game, played on a field that dwarfs the American football field. I don’t normally go off on sport tangents, but this cabby has me convinced to attend a Gaelic football event my next visit to Ireland. Hogan Stand at Croke park is the site for these events (which are all volunteer teams!).
Like many places in Dublin, politics and history intersect with everyday life. Hogan Stand at Croke Park where the Gaelic games are held was also the site of Bloody Sunday in 1920 during the Anglo-Irish war where the British opened fire on the crowds killing 14 and injuring 65. Among the dead was Tipperary footballer Michael Hogan for whom the arena is named. The past, the present, architecture, sports…it’s all intertwined in this Irish capital city.
Botanical drawing of the potato plant, Atlas des plantes de France. 1891.
While history is evident at every turn in Dublin, there is something that eludes me. I can’t seem to figure out is the potato thing.
Potatoes are served with nearly every dish. Like every else, I know about the Irish potato blight and the subsequent waves of outbound immigration. But if potatoes were nearly wiped out, why in the world are they still central to nearly every dish I order?
The short answer is that the potato is deeply embedded in modern, and particularly, Irish culinary habits. And a wee bit of research reveals that the lowly potato has a noble and fascinating history.
Potatoes were imported to Europe after their discovery in South America by the Spanish in 1532. At first, they were scorned as food fit only for animals. Tastless, colorless and not meat. But the potato was an easy to grow, nutrient rich crop, not subject to the vagaries of the wheat harvest, which had traditionally provided the nutritional mainstay for the population. Suddenly, with the potato, there was enough food.
Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, might be regarded as the potato’s Johnny Appleseed. His promotion of potatoes on a grand scale transformed the European food supply and subsequently impacted population growth:
“The effects of this transformation were so striking that any general history of Europe without an entry in its index for S. tuberosum should be ignored. Hunger was a familiar presence in 17th- and 18th-century Europe. Cities were provisioned reasonably well in most years, their granaries carefully monitored, but country people teetered on a precipice. France, the historian Fernand Braudel once calculated, had 40 nationwide famines between 1500 and 1800, more than one per decade. This appalling figure is an underestimate, he wrote, “because it omits the hundreds and hundreds of local famines.” France was not exceptional; England had 17 national and big regional famines between 1523 and 1623. The continent simply could not reliably feed itself.
Both in Europe and in the states, aristocracy (Jefferson in the case of the U.S.) promoted the adoption of the potato. Marie Antoinette was said to wear the flowers in her hair. King Louis XVI put the flower in his buttonhole.
So it was that, with a bit of celebrity marketing, the potato became a staple in western European and American cultures and cuisines.
***
Dublin is a very walkable city. I did get a hop on, hop off bus ticket that allowed me to explore the overall area at will. But once you have a feel for the layout of the town it’s an easy walk to most places.
Driving is a bit more of a challenge, given the seemingly arbitrary plethora of one way streets, not to mention driving on the left hand side of the road. I will leave that challenge for my next trip.
Ireland is famous for its rain, but precipitation was thankfully absent for most of the trip. I think back to the “frog strangling” rains of San Antonio, and I was curious about the Irish anachronisms for the wet stuff. I’ve heard of “kissing rain”. But the Irish have a plethora of other nicknames for the usually omnipresent showers, in both English and Gaelic. Dry rains are but a bare mist. A spitting rain can leave you soaked to the bone ; a rotten rain is the weather equivalent of a sulking teenager, according to The Daily Edge. Suffice it to say, a bucketing rain is not something you want to be caught in. Particularly without a raincoat!
But with little rain in the forecast (fingers crossed!), I set out to some good old fashioned site seeing. Here’s an abbreviated pass at some of my adventures, with more to follow in future posts.
Here are some of the places I managed to squeeze in in just under three days:
1. The Guinness Storehouse
You can learn the “perfect pour” on a tour at the Guinness Storehouse.
The basic tour is self guided, and has quite a bit of Guinness oriented information. But if you want to do any of the special tastings tours or the pouring class, be sure to book ahead of time. This is a very popular tourist destination, and planning ahead will save you both time and money.
The tour winds its way up several stories in the renovated industrial storehouse. Along the way it reveals the special attention to the ingredients that make up this cult brew. One area is devoted entirely to Guinness marketing schemes over the year, and among other things features a singing oyster and a fish riding a bicycle. That aside, it’s still worth a visit. The lounge on the top floor has a fabulous 360 degree view of the city and environs. And of course, for a perfectly poured pint of original Guinness.
For more information on purchasing tickets, click here.
2. Trinity College Library and The Book of Kells
Trinity College Dublin was created by royal charter in 1592. It’s official name is College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth. But much more importantly, it is the location of the Trinity College Library and The Book of Kells, which is widely regarded as Irelands premier national treasure. It is “an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, containing the four Gospels of the New Testament together with various prefatory texts and tables” (Wikipedia).
Beauty and symbolism from the Book of Kales. Source: Public Domain / Wikimedia Commons
This is a must do. Click here for ticket information and be sure to buy your tickets on line to guarantee you an admission time slot. Tickets are limited and visitors are admitted in half hour increments.
After the Book of Kells exhibit (no photographs are permitted) visitors can climb the stairs to the Trinity College Library. The library is a two storied archive of books and sculpture:
Entering the Trinity College Library is breathtaking. The two story high stacks contain the knowledge of centuries.
The barrel roof of the library seems to go on forever, over double storied tiers of books.
The Trinity College grounds also make for a beautiful and interesting walk while waiting to visit the Library and the Book of Kells:
A view of the central square at Trinity College, Dublin.
Another interior view of the square at Trinity College.
Buildings surrounding the grassy green at Trinity.
The buildings of Trinity College.
The central quad at Trinity College.
A view along the green at Trinity College
While visiting the Guinness Storehouse is infinitely popular, if I had just one place I could visit in Dublin, The Trinity College Library and The Book of Kells would be it. And should you be looking for something Irish to take home, there is an Irish gift shop just across from the college entrance.
3. St. Patrick’s Cathedral
St. Patrick’s is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. Its early construction including its 43-metre (141 ft) spire, dates back to 1220-1259. With a history this long, the building has been central to many Irish events and personalities. Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels was Dean of the cathedral from 1713 to 1745. He is buried on the property.
In keeping with the literary meme that is so prevalent in Dublin, here are a few Jonathan Swift quotes as well:
“May you live every day of your life.”
“Vision is the art of seeing things invisible.
“It is useless to attempt to reason a man out of a thing he was never reasoned into.”
“When a great genius appears in the world you may know him by this sign; that the dunces are all in confederacy against him.”
“No wise man ever wished to be younger. ”
( And of course one of my favorite quotes: “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” More on Irish oysters in a future post!)
St. Patrick’s property includes a sweeping expanse of lawn that frames the magnificent church. My pictures don’t begin to capture the building and grounds, but to give you an idea:
Formerly known as The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin predates St. Patricks. It was founded sometime after 1028 and was built on the high ground overlooking the Viking settlement at Wood Quay . It went through extensive renovations between 1871 to 1878, spearheaded by George Edmund Street, a leading English architect, born in Essex and known for his Victorian Gothic Revival architecture. Because of this renovation, there are questions about the authenticity of parts of the cathedral. But from a tourist’s eyes, this is a magnificent building.
Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin Ireland
The walkway over the road at Christ Church.
5. James Joyce Walking Tour
Although James Joyce was a pivotal writer in literary history, many find him hard to read. But this tour makes one consider picking up his books. Personally, for me, I enjoyed the anecdotes of our tour guide, but I’ll leave the re-reading of Joyce to others!
Belvedere College provided a home for Irish writer James Joyce
6. St. Stephen’s Green
This stunning park is a central place to meet, walk and enjoy a bit of greenery in downtown Dublin. At its beginning, it was no more than a marsh at the edge of the city. But in 1664, the Dublin Corporation walled off the park, laying the groundwork for a fashionable neighborhood by the end of the eighteenth century. Most of the houses along Grafton Street and the other avenues surrounding the green are replica Georgian buildings. But that doesn’t take away from the charm of this oasis in the city. A must visit!
Swans swimming in the lake at St. Stephen’s Green
One of many paths that one can walk through this magnificent park in Dublin.
7. Irish Whiskey Tasting
When in Ireland…do stop and learn a bit about Irish Whiskey. It’s become a very sophisticated craft industry, with whiskey skillfully aged in casks from other beverages such as sherry and port, imbuing the alcohol with subtle and elegant tones. More on this as the Irish Whiskey story unfolds…
Irish Whiskey drives complexity from agin in various woods. This store provides an insight into the industry and art.
8. Dublin Castle
Dublin Castle was founded around 1204 by King John of England, sometime after the Norman invasion of 1169. It was build primarily for defense, and typical of the day, sported a courtyard design, surrounded by defensive walls.
Through its long history, the castle evolved and then sustained extensive fire damage in 1684. The rebuilding effort explains the Georgian palace surrounding the remaining great Record Tower (built in 1228-1230) which is the only surviving tower of the original fort. I note this because when you first walk into the courtyard, your first question is “Where is the castle?” Georgian buildings flank a cobblestone courtyard and there is no “castle” in sight! Keep walking! It’s there!
Where’s the castle? The Georgian buildings simply don’t fit with the word “castle”.
Building outside Dublin Castle. But it’s not a castle!
Finally, through the arches, lies the turret from Dublin Castle, overlooking a cobblestone courtyard, flanked by Georgian buildings.
9. Winding Stair Booksellers and Restaurant
The Winding Stair is an iconic bookshop and upstairs, a restaurant.
This bookstore is one of the oldest surviving independent bookshops in Dublin. From their website:
“The Winding Stair Bookshop & Café became a famous Dublin landmark in the 1970s and 1980s. Named after the Yeats poem, and in honour of its winding staircase, it is perfectly located, overlooking the river Liffey, with an iconic view of the Ha’penny bridge. As a popular meeting place for writers, musicians and artists, it was a well known hub for debate and creativity with many poems written, novels penned and movies shot within its walls.
Seafood from The Winding Stair
When its closure was announced in 2005, there were mutterings about the end of an era, but in 2006, Elaine Murphy brought this much-loved spot back to life as a restaurant, championing seasonal, Irish produce. The bookshop, located on the ground floor, was retained, as were many of the old bookshelves, photos and memories. The room retains its timeless charm with stripped wood tables and floors, and Bentwood café chairs. The old girders give a nod to its past as a tweed loom and the view remains as quintessentially Dublin as ever.”
The upstairs restaurant features local Irish food, like crab, mussels, cockles and lamb shanks. To name just a few of the many intriguing possibilities. Stay tuned for more on this Irish culinary resource!
The Conrad which is located near St. Stephen’s Green is an absolute find. It was reasonable, especially when split between two people. It had a KILLER breakfast included as part of the room price. And the restaurant was excellent.
Breakfast was included in the room price and included several buffets with eggs, roasted tomatoes, smoked fish, meat, cheese, pastries, fruit and much more. Eggs can also be special ordered, and there are other options on the menu as well. One of my favorite aspects of breakfast was incredible coffee (I usually drink tea, but this French press dark roasted coffee was superb); and the block of real honeycomb, laden with fresh honey. Add a scone (it’s not on my anticancer diet, but…YUM) and start the day with a smile.
I stayed here for the first several days in Dublin. The staff was stellar. They went out of their way to be accommodating and friendly, but never intrusive. While hotel rates may vary according to demand, put this on your list of places to consider. I’m pretty hard to impress, but this was an excellent hotel, at a good price. My stay was a flawless experience.
The other hotel where we stayed after returning from Killarney (one night) for our flight back home was the Harrington Hall. I would not recommend this. It’s charming in a dowdy sort of way, but it’s located across from several nightclubs whose celebrations go on well into the night. Not the ideal situation if you have to get up early for a flight the next day.
Everything is fairly close and if you need to take a break, a pot of tea and/or a pub is never far away.
Schedule Your Day Your Way
Most attractions offer tickets on line. Take advantage of this and schedule your day, your way. Given the high demand for some sights, checking out availability ahead of time is wise. The Guinness Storehouse tours all need to be pre-booked. (The self guided tour is readily available, at just about any time. Booking on line may save you a few Euro).
Foodie Forays
The overall food in Dublin was very good, but lacking creativity and a bit on the heavy side for my tastes. Pub food was generally hearty and good. Lots of potatoes! Some of which were very well prepared. And Guinness As Usual (vs. Business As Usual) seems to be the rule of the town.
I ordered mostly fish to keep my choices as healthy as possible. The various meats and stews look wonderful, but that simply isn’t on my anticancer diet. I wish I had had more time to explore the restaurant scene. (Next trip!)
I did eat at Dylan McGraths’s Taste At Rustic located at 17 South Great George’s St, Dublin D2. Given his celebrity status as a chef in Ireland, I was curious. The website is gorgeous and the food sounds innovative. Sadly, I wasn’t very impressed. Except for the beet broth which was excellent, the other dishes missed their mark. My olives and hummus were unimaginative and under seasoned. My quail was under seasoned and over cooked.
The Burberry:
Alas, it is gone. Somewhere, someone has a very nice Burberry on their back and in their closet.
Strangely I am not very upset. In its stead I bought a simple rain jacket for 40 euro. It’s a nice textured grey with a hood, and I am very happy with it.
Learning to let go of things has become an integral part of my life experience as of late. The Burberry may just be caught up in this trend. It doesn’t need to be replaced.
“Mostly it is loss which teaches us about the worth of things.” –Arthur Schopenhauer, Parerga and Paralipomena
Think about that one for a bit.
Coming up:
Planes, trains and automobiles help me navigate across Ireland (no sailplanes, at least not this trip!).
Horse racing, local food and fun in Killarney
A culinary exploration of the Beara Peninsula looks into the food and people that have been part of the Irish slow food organic food movement.
For More Potato Reading, should you be interested:
The Many Faces of the American West: Tahoe to Texas
What does one think of when one thinks of the American West? Cowboys and cactus and Hollywood, for sure. But there is all this and so much more.
This road trip over the next week or so is via highway, not byway. The main stops are Tahoe to visit a friend; Pasadena for the Cassini Grand Finale and then onto Houston via Route 10, where I will leave for Ireland.
Road Trip! This is the path I took from Seattle to Houston, which is the jumping off point for Ireland. From Seattle to Reno: Nonstop drive: 721 miles or 1160 km; Driving time: 12 hours, 9 minutes
Tahoe
Heading south from Seattle to Tahoe, Route 44 cuts through Lassen National Forest, southeast towards Reno/Tahoe. It’s a two lane road, winding through forested land, gaining elevation along the way. It is fire season and smoke from the Oregon fires completely obscures the countryside. My heart goes out to the people living with the smoke and the uncertainty that wild fires bring.
Fire brings back memories for most of us who have lived in the American West. Living at the edge of town with the Sierra wilderness a block from my house, I’ve had several close calls with wild fires. The most recent, a few years ago, is still fresh in my memory.
A strong front with 60+ mph winds (over 100 mph at the ridge tops) was moving through the area. Living in the lee of a mountain range, such winds were not uncommon, particularly in the winter months. This night, I woke about 2 or 3 am, sensing something wasn’t right. In the haze of half sleep, I struggled to make sense of my instinct. The room had a slight glow to it.
The power was off. The only light was a deep hued reddish glow in the room. Nothing made sense to my sleepy mind.
Then I smelled smoke.
The backyard was fine. My house was ok. I stood on my bed, to look out through three small square windows high on the wall which looked west toward the Sierra. A liquid wall of fire streamed over the ridge just behind my house, running downhill, getting closer and closer. I stood mesmerized. Winds were howling; the fire was moving. Then I realized. I needed to get moving as well.
In the dark, I sought out the numerous flashlights I kept for for such occasions and I positioned them around the house. Howling winds often meant a loss of power. I had learned to be prepared.
My first thought was to get the cats. In the dark. In the smoke. Somehow I was lucky enough to nab both of them. They both went into the large carrier.
Computer; key files with passport etc. Clothes for a day or two and hopefully I’d be back. In the past, I’d packed half my house as a fire approached. That is not an option today.
The cars that belonged to my neighbors in the cul de sac were gone. They’d obviously cleared out. How had they known? Why hadn’t they called? Welcome to Reno. After over a decade living here, people were still clannish and kept to themselves. I was on my own, facing an out of control wildfire raging down the hillside.
I loaded the car. Without electricity I released the garage door so I could manually open it. In the dark it’s hard to maneuver, and it is heavy.
With the garage up, I realize the severity of the situation. The wind is howling, burning debris and embers rushing by, large trees swaying viciously in the wind. The fire line is rapidly moving down the mountain.
I can hardly stand, the wind is so strong. Cars with their headlights on are making their way down the hill in single file. One neighbor has simply opened their coral and let their horses run loose. There is no time to hitch a trailer.
From that day on, for months, everytime time the winds started to howl, I felt nervous. The wind alone, pounding the house and thrashing the trees, could often do that. But now the experience of wind and fire together were indelibly imprinted on my sense of being.
This year this trip from Seattle to Houston in 2017, is also punctuated by fire. Much of Oregon is burning. The smoke along I-5 is so thick I cannot see the hills along side the road. I consider whether it is wise to even leave the highway given the random scattering of fires spreading out of control, but cutting through Lassen to Susanville, shortens the drive by over an hour.
The road passes devastated countryside, followed by patches of forest that are utterly untouched. Charred branches and trunks remain where there was once lush forest. The only new growth is cheatgrass, so this fire was relatively recent.
Large trailers carrying massive logs occasionally slow my progress, but other than that, the smokey trip is just a part of life in the west, particularly this year. I downshift to pass a final logging truck heavily laden with tree trunks lashed to the flatbed, the road opens up and the smoke starts to lift. Rays of sunlight illuminate particles suspended in air, creating a flickering stream of light from sky to earth and earth to sky. The center line of the highway pushes ahead, a clear path forward. And overhead, the sky finally appears. Blue. Tahoe blue.
Photo by Pranam Gurung on Unsplash
As I come out of the mountains, I approach Reno from the north. The high desert is hot and barren. Mile after mile of desert passes me by. There is nothing but desolate land until the outskirts of the city start to appear.
And just one word comes to mind: “Scorched”.
Perhaps it’s simply the approach from the north where I clearly see what a small town in the desert this really is. Perhaps it’s the realization that for hundreds of miles, for many people, this is IT. The city: civilization.
“Change the way you look at things and the things you look at will change.”~Wayne Dyer
Were I to approach from the south, from Tahoe, I would have driven from a summit of 8,911′ on Mt. Rose highway to the valley floor at 4,500′. It’s a breathtaking, two lane mountain road that starts off in an Alpine environment and ends in high desert. It’s a drive that merges the best of the Tahoe National Forest with the fields and foothills that lead into the affluent Reno suburbs. It’s a view that takes your breath away.
But today, coming from the north, the only word that comes to mind is “Scorched”.
***
I take a full day and plan a final tour of Tahoe before leaving for Pasadena. I start with Truckee, where my I first encountered Tahoe more than two decades ago.
Truckee is just off Route 80. It was originally called Coburn Station after a local salloon keeper. The current name is derived from a Paiute chief who greeted the first Europeans yelling “Tro-kay”, which is Paiute for all is well. (Wikipedia).
Like all tourist areas, Truckee has an ebb and flow of people. This year, on this perfect September weekend, tourists crowd the sidewalks, restaurants and shops. From a locals perspective, it is time for the visitors to leave Tahoe. They have monopolized the lake for months now, with loud radios and speedboats, often leaving their trash behind on pristine beaches. September belongs to the locals. The days are sunny and warm, the water still holds onto some of its summer heat; and the cooling temperatures of fall start to descend.
Truckee is bisected by train tracks from the Transcontinental railway built in the 1800’s. The train offers a ride back in time, through the Sierras to San Francisco (the train ride actually ends in Oakland and a bus transports passengers across the Bay into the city).
The original Transcontinental tracks were laid by Chinese laborers who were imported for cheap labor. Building the tracks required tunneling through the Sierra, a slow, tedious and often dangerous job. Wooden sheds protected the finished track from heavy snowfall. The Transcontinental Railway was completed on May 10, 1869. Today, you can hike the tracks in the mountains above Donner Lake.
The Truckee Train Station
I stop for lunch at a newish seafood place I’d read of. It’s located across the tracks, behind the train station. It was sadly disappointing.
Main Street, Truckee CA
On the hill over looking town is a restaurant where I spent many a night with friends. At least it’s still there, but I don’t care to look too closely.
Part of the reason for this foray was to take pictures for this blog. But I realize that there was a much deeper need for me to revisit one last time. To see the last two decades of my life from a current perspective. Did I make the right decision moving to Tahoe? Did I make the right decision leaving?
“As you start to walk out on the way, the way appears.” ~ Rumi
Restored buildings become art galleries and restaurants in Truckee, CA.
I drive up to the Ritz Carlton at Northstar with the idea of savoring the massive slope side patio one final time, at least for now. But I am disinterested and decide against stopping.
Across from Northstar is Martis Creek and the Truckee airport Down a winding road is the soaring operation and a campground for pilots only. I turn down towards the airport that had once been a source of adventure, discovery and joy on my aviation themed trek westward.
A western variation of a stop sign!
I pull up to the airfield and there is no WHOA sign. The quirky stop sign with that western flair that Les had installed at the end of the dusty road to the soaring operation is no longer there. That WHOA sign was a symbol of the serendipity of travel. I came, I whoa’d, I flew. Absent Les’ quirky sign and friendliness, would my fate have been different?
Aside from the absence of the signage, not much has changed at the airport over the last two decades. Airports are clannish and cliquey; seldom welcoming.
I get out of my car and walk over towards the runway where I pause and watch a plane launch. It’s a ride. I can tell by the actions of the people and the datedness of the plane.
A young woman walks back from the launch to the airport. She barely nods. I am not of interest, either as a threat or a curiosity. Her sure steps back to the main hut shows that she has a place here, at this field. I see my younger self in her. I too had to fight to prove my airmanship and find my place in the aviation hierarchy. I understand.
A lone sailplane tied down at the end of the runway, waiting to go fly.
I had considered stopping at the Lone Eagle for one last look across this magnificent lake. But I just want to leave. Instead I stop at a tourist overlook, a spot I’d normally drive by.
A view of Tahoe from an overlook off of Mt. Rose highway, above Incline Village, NV
It’s beautiful.
Its stunning.
But it’s not mine anymore. It doesn’t offer the posibility it once did. I used to think that if Tahoe didn’t wow me, something was wrong with me. But Tahoe will always wow me.
It’s just time to move on.
***
Tahoe to Pasadena, CA
Reno to Pasadena: Nonstop drive: 473 miles or 761 km; Driving time: 7 hours, 36 minutes
Some people are drawn to cities or culture. Some to shopping. Geography draws me.
The West is a different country from its eastern brethren . It is shaped by the geographic imperatives of the land. Everything is on a large scale. The skies can go on forever and in some areas the distances between civilized enclaves is substantial.
Then there is the frantic, competitive energy of urban areas, such as L.A. and the Bay Area. In L.A. towns merge into a continuous city, from the mountains to where concrete meets ocean. Each area has its own social mores, from Hollywood to Venice Beach.
In the Bay Area, tech and money are the ruling clique, particularly in Silicon Valley. I recall attending a talk by Chamath Palihapitiya of Social + Capital Partnership at Google when I was looking to get my foot in the door to raise capital for ThinkTLC. A black woman, an MD, asked how one gains access to the various VC (venture capital) groups, most of which are located around Sand Hill Road. Chamath responded that “unless you are white, male and Ivy league (that includes Stanford and Berkley in this community) don’t even bother visiting Sand Hill Road. You won’t get funded.”
Where does that leave me, I wondered. White, female, and Ivy League. The black M.D. and I exchange glances.
“Achievement has no color.” -Abraham Lincoln
Looks like the Sand Hill crowd is a bit behind on this one.
***
L.A. and Pasadena are a good day’s drive from Reno/Tahoe. The Cassini Grand Finale at NASA awaits and Pasadena holds good memories, of the parade, times with friends, country club dinners and great wine.
Pasadena is about a 15 minute (traffic free) drive to NASA JPL where the Cassini Grand Finale will be held. Carmen, my host and friend, lines up a wonderful few days, of dinner at Annandale Country Club and a fabulous evening at the Huntington Library celebrating the opening of a spectacular collect of Latin American exploration and culture.
An evening of celebration at the Huntington Library.
The entry into the Huntington exhibit.
Inside an amazing array of art on the walls and on display cases makes for a most interesting evening.
So it is that I divide my days between space exploration at NASA JPL and history at the Huntington Libray, plus of course, some wonderful food.
True Food Kitchen in Pasadena, where healthy road food feeds my culinary soul.
I love visiting Pasadena, and am tempted to linger, but I take off for Ireland in less than a week, and I need to get to Houston. It’s time to head east in my tour of the west.
Pasadena, CA to Scottsdale, AZ
Pasadena to Scottsdale via I-10 Nonstop drive: 386 miles or 621 km; Driving time: 5 hours, 56 minutes
Traveling I am grateful for Google maps and my Apple watch which gives me a mild electronic buzz on my wrist when it’s time to turn this way or that. Navigating without these aids would be difficult. But I think I need to be able to reprogram the map interface a bit.
Every time I stop for gas or coffee I am admonished in a flat electronic voice to “Proceed to Route”, as if this minor foray is simply not permitted. My watch gives me a mild electronic zap to remind me to obey and turn as directed. Sometimes I think it’s fun simply to drive in circles and listen to Google go tech turvy as it tries to recalibrate my route.
On the stretch to Scottsdale, I simply turn off the navigation. It is a simple route, directly east to Phoenix and I’m not inclined to be admonished should I deviate from the route.
There is something about the aesthetics, beauty and orderliness of Scottsdale that I always enjoy. In the winter the weather is beyond fabulous. In the summer it is unbearably hot. Out of season, this September, Scottsdale is very reasonable. I stayed in a property that was a bit dated but fully renovated, with lovely suites that included a sitting/work area, a small kitchen and a separate bedroom and bath. Mornings the chef custom cooked omelets, which allowed me to eat reasonably, if not perfectly, on the road. The ingredients weren’t organic; the eggs most likely not organic, free range or omega 3 rich, but still, a viable road food option with some vegetables to boot.
True Food is a regional group of restaurants started by Harvard physician Andrew Weil, MD. Dr. Weil has been a bit of a renegade in the medical world, advocating common sense good health through nutrition, exercise and similar avenues over traditional medicine’s almost exclusively pharmaceutical approach. Needless to say, I admire his guts in taking a road less traveled. And I adore his restaurants which feature locally sourced, responsibly raised, organic ingredients.
True Food, Scottsdale | The Palm lined walk to the restaurant | Lunch!
Lunch this day was the slightly spicy and totally delicious lettuce wraps, which was enough food for two people. The total bill: $10.80. Eating healthy will definitely not break the bank.
A lunch at True Food Kitchen in Scottsdale, AZ.
Scottsdale combines modernity with soul. The shopping is outstanding, if you are so inspired. I personally indulged in a bit of retail therapy at the sale rack of Eileen Fisher to fill in a few gaps in my travel wardrobe.
Retail therapy at the sales rack at Eileen Fisher.
While Scottsdale has a facade of commercial glitz, it also has some soul. The Old Town at the south end of town was founded in 1888 when U.S. Army Chaplain Winfield Scott bought 640 acres for $3.50. Old Town is a collection of nice bars, galleries and restaurants. It’s also a spectacular place for morning walks with the sun low in the sky and the covered side walks offering a refuge from the bustle of the city and the upcoming heat of the day.
A shaded sidewalk in Old Town Scottsdale.
In one of the roundabouts is a spectacular fountain that includes four bronze horses. The horses look as if they could jump from the water into the street at any moment
A fountain in a roundabout in Old Town Scottsdale.
The detailing is exquisite, and I take picture after picture, trying to capture the vibrancy of the sculpture.
Bronze statues of horses in the Old Town roundabout.
Details of two of the four horses.
Each horse looks primed to jump from the fountain and disappear down the road.
Old Town is quiet in the morning. Baskets of flowers hang from the bridge over the waterway and splashes of color provide color and texture:
Flowers over the waterway, near Nordstrom’s in Old Town.
Old Town Tavern in Old Town Scottsdale.
Cactus and plantings provide a blast of color in Old Town Scottsdale.
Scottsdale, AZ to Vail, AZ
From Scottsdale, it’s a short hop ( about 2.5 hours) south on I-10 to Vail, AZ where I am visiting with some friends. Vail is just outside Tucson at 3,235 feet above sea level. Each one thousand feet is worth about 3 degrees of cooling, and in the Sonoran desert that translates into a more habitable summer. Winter monsoons dump vast amounts of rain in small amounts of time, so surprisingly, as one drives into the desert, it is actually green.
Vail is near the Saguaro National Forest, where the classic tree-like Saguaro cactus which is nearly synonymous with the American West, is found. These cacti can grow to over 40 feet tall and live to over 150 years old. Their size is determined in part by precipitation, and their age can be guestimated by the number of side arms growing out from the trunk. The sidearms typically start to grow between 75-100 years of age, although some cacti will never grow the distinctive appendage. Here area few pictures I shot in the stunning Saguaro National Park:
The Saguaro National Forest.
Clouds cast shadows on the distant mountains.
The Saguaro cactus are protected. These plants are massive, towering over the nearby terrain.
Should you decide to go, winters are wet from December through February, with snow at higher elevations. Summer rains from July through September tend to be heavier, with lightening and flash flooding. A storm can easily cool the desert by 20 degrees or more.
Summer temperatures range from 100-115 degrees during the day, and drop to the seventies at night. Winter temperatures usually range from the 60’s to 70’s, and drop to the forties at night. Occasional freezes also may occur. If this happens, you may see residents running out to cover their cacti, who don’t particularly care for the cold!
Vail AZ to San Antonio, TX
Tucson to San Antonio Nonstop drive: 868 miles or 1397 km; Driving time: 12 hours, 3 minutes
This is a two day trip, with an overnight stop in Las Cruces. The first day’s drive is easy, and I take a bit of time to stop and explore here and there.
Next to the road, a train travels alongside the highway. I easily pass the string of cars as they race straight ahead on their linear trek. It’s well past noon and I am getting hungry, and there doesn’t seem to be anyplace to stop.
A road side stop off of I-10
Just as this thought registers with both my stomach and my mind, a string of roadside signs appear advertising a trading post. Blankets! Knives! Moccasins! Food! The latter gets my attention. Any business willing to put up 20 or so billboards one after the other deserves a visit.
A woman greets me as I enter the large shop. Cases with jewelry, piles of clothes, a wall full of shoes and stacks of colorful blankets are piled everywhere. I simply ask for the food section, where I find dark chocolate covered almonds and cashews. Checking out, we chat. “Is there a place to stop for lunch?” I ask.
The two women behind the counter confer. There seems to be more than one possibility. But apparently the quality of the food at one place depends on who is cooking. Finally the women break from their huddle with a recommendation: Irma’s.
The directions sound concise but somehow I manage to mangle them. Google seems confused as well. But eventually I find the restaurant in a white brick building situated on the corner, just as it had been described.
I’m looking for something light, which in a Mexican restaurant may be an oxymoron. Browsing the menu I settle on huevos rancheros. This dish comes with a freshly made green salsa with hatch chilies. The pieces of roasted chili add depth, flavor and a bit of heat to the perfectly balanced green sauce. Yum. The eggs are perfectly cooked. The beans a bit banal, but I have no complaints.
Back in the car, my dark chocolate covered almonds have melted into a mound of goo in the Arizona heat. I navigate back to the highway. I need some road music. I come across a channel called “Texas Renegade”. Their tag line is “Nashville looks up to us.” Accompanied by some Texan twang, I put pedal to the metal and once again pass the speeding train.
San Antonio
Phoexix to San Antonio: Nonstop drive: 868 miles or 1397 km Driving time: 12 hours, 3 minutes
The next stop is San Antonio. It is fall as I arrive, but Texas did not get the memo. It is hot, and it is humid.
Riverwalk in San Antonio, as a major rain storm is brewing.
San Antonio is the 7th most populous city in the United States and the second largest city in Texas. It was founded as a Spanish mission and colonial outpost in 1718. Other missions were established along the San Antonio river in the 1700’s to further solidify Spain’s claims to the territory.
The missions of San Antonio were a combination of religious centers and training grounds for Spanish citizenship. In exchange for the economic security of the mission, the Indians gave up their nomadic existence, and adopted the Spanish religion and culture. Sadly many succumbed to the European diseases imported by the Spanish, as well.
Each mission was a fortified village with its own church, farm and ranch. European technologies such as framing and blacksmithing were taught to the Indians.
Six missions along the San Antonio River were established. I was able to visit three of the Missions: the famous Alamo, Mission San Antonio de Valero; Mission Concepcion and Mission San Jose.
Mission San Jose
The church at Mission San Jose, in the morning light.
Mission San Jose is the most restored of the three missions thanks to a WPA work program from World War II. It provides a good sense of what mission life was like during the 1700s. At its peak, it housed 300 inhabitants.
The central grass square is ringed by human habitats–small rooms with a single entry– and enclosed by thick stone walls for protection. The walls were rebuilt from sandstone (rather than the original limestone) based on the footings found around the Mission.
At the corner of the fortified Mission, openings below provide a place for cannon. The openings above allow rifles to extend out for defense.
The clock tower chimes as the morning light spreads across the stone walls. Here are a few pictures of this beautifully restored piece of history:
The bell tower chimes early in the morning, giving one a sense of what life in the mission must have been like.
Arches create a loggia in front of the main church building.
Residences lined the exterior walls. Each residence had an outdoor area where meat could be hung to dry.
The interior of the church.
Mission Concepcion
Mission Concepcion is in its original state, not restored. The surviving stone detail around the main entry is stunning. Originally, wall art was used to decorate both the interiror and exterior. A replica of these frescos is on the side of the bell tower.
Looking for a bit of information, I stopped in the visitor center and chatted with the docent. I turns out she lived in Dublin for a time, and set about telling all sorts of stories. The rain in Dublin, she informed me was more of a mild mist. Not like Texas where “frog strangler rain storms” dumped a lot of water fast. I would witness a frog strangler storm later in the day as the overhead clouds burst and inundated everything in their path.
Palm trees provide some partial shade at Mission Concepcion.
A side view of Mission Concepcion.
Detailed stone work on the front of Mission Concepcion.
Mission San Antonio de Valero (The Alamo)
The 1960 epic film about The Alamo, starring John Wayne.
“You will remember this battle! Each minute! Each second! Until the day that you die! But that is for tomorrow, gentlemen. For today, Remember The Alamo!”–from the 1960 film starring John Wayne
The Alamo was one of the original Spanish missions, but it seems to be best remembered as an epic war film depicting the 1836 Battle of the Alamo which was produced and directed by John Wayne, starring Wayne as Davy Crockett. Today, the interior court and other property that originally surrounded the mission are gone. Surrounded by downtown San Antonio, Mission San Antonio de Valero is a popular tourist draw.
The Alamo, downtown San Antonio.
An interior room at the Alamo.
All this exploring, naturally, could not occur on an empty stomach and near the Mission Jose I stopped in a superb restaurant, Nicha’s.
Delicious Huevos Divorciados at Nicha’s on Roosevelt Avenue in San Antonio
The Nicha’s story began in 1977 when Gene and Dionisia (“Nicha”) Garcia, opened a homestyle Mexican restaurant. The following grew and they eventually moved into their Roosevelt Avenue location, near the historic Mission San Jose. It’s a family restaurant, still run by two of the children.
The Huevos Divorciados (Divorced Eggs) that I had were off the charts excellent, as I suspect, is everything else on the menu. It’s actually worth planning a meal around this Mexican restaurant, where the food is very fresh, homemade and simply delicious.
The recipe calls for two eggs, with different but complimentary sauces. One egg is served with a green sauce, the other with a red sauce, both on homemade corn tortillas . Naturally some potatoes kept the two eggs apart, as is fitting Divorced Eggs. My eggs were accompanied by smokey beans which, I suspect, derived some of their deep, fabulous flavor from bacon, but I decided to overlook this departure from my normal diet and thoroughly enjoy the plate of food before me.
Nicha’s on Roosevelt Avenue. Don’t miss it!
San Antonio to Houston
This final leg is an easy drive. Why Houston? Because I leave from Houston for a trip to Ireland!!! There is a method to my madness, trust me. And stay tuned for the next series of tales from CancerRoadTrip!
The Irish coast from the plane. Houston to Atlanta: 792.8 miles; Atlanta to Dublin, Ireland: 3,921 miles; Total Mileage: 4,713 miles
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The Many Faces of the American West: A Trip from Seattle to Houston
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What is #CancerRoadTrip and how did it come to be? Read this post to get the backstory!
Travel involves luggage and finding the best luggage for travel is important. My own travels take me in numerous directions: hiking, driving, flying and a bit of luxury along the way.
I have chosen an unconventional path, reflected in everything from my travel packing list to my reading, to the variety of expeditions I am undertaking. A woman in a store said to me that I was brave. I don’t see CancerRoadTrip as brave. I see it as necessary, for reasons that I’m not sure I can fully explain.
I recently came across a quote from Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat, Pray, Love.:
Virginia Woolf wrote, “Across the broad continent of a woman’s life falls the shadow of a sword.” On one side of that sword, she said, there lies convention and tradition and order, where “all is correct.” But on the other side of that sword, if you’re crazy enough to cross it and choose a life that does not follow convention, “all is confusion. Nothing follows a regular course.” Her argument was that the crossing of the shadow of that sword may bring a far more interesting existence to a woman, but you can bet it will also be more perilous.”
Life is definitely more interesting these days! I carry little in terms of physical possessions, particularly compared to my former life. Cancer and CancerRoadTrip has caused much of my prior, well-defined existence to fall away. I defy the usual social conventions, traveling without a home, without an address, without a “normal” job. With less, I have found more.
With a few months of road time under my belt, I’ve edited and re-edited my travel packing list. I’ve discarded numerous things that weren’t working or were too cumbersome. I’m on a quest for the best luggage for travel–all types of travel.
Keeping in mind that I need to carry clothes for all four seasons (I am, after all, “homeless”), my car carries some additional items. But I’m getting ever more ruthless about carrying anything superfluous, and I am leaning out my possessions even further. I’ve re-organized some things; thrown other items out; and am leaving others behind.
My goal, in terms of a travel packing list, is to have the interior of my car as clean and uncluttered as possible. That means that whatever I carry needs to fit in the “trunk” of my station wagon, in the roof carrier, or it needs to go.
My trusty 2002 BMW all wheel drive wagon with roof carrier in Point Reyes, CA
At the beginning of CancerRoadTrip, my travel packing list was long. If it fit in my car, I could bring it along.
That has changed.
Starting out, I had tucked a rolling insulated beverage carrier that I had used for travel and tennis matches behind the passenger seat. But it’s just too big and too much hassle. It’s gone.
In its stead, is a very small thermal carrier that I got at one of the wineries in Napa. It easily holds a lunch. It also came with me through all my chemo treatments, so it has some emotional attachment. It’s small, collapsable and just fine. If I need more, I can do without.
I’ve also lightened my load of nearly all kitchen items. I did keep a pepper grinder (I’m a pepper person) and a few small items, like my favorite chopsticks.
I’ve discarded shirts that don’t work and pants that don’t fit.
I’ve kept my Urban Poles (which I love) and my yoga blocks, mat, balls and strap. They are stowed in the Thule.
In additional to keeping my travel packing list as lean as possible, I’ve also learned several other travel lessons along the way. Perhaps one of the most important lessons is the need for good travel gear. And consolidating items of a genre is essential. I have gotten my air travel gear down to just three main items that I consider the best luggage for travel, for the moment at least.
The Best Luggage for Travel
With several upcoming adventures involving overseas travel, I’ve turned my attention to getting as lean as possible. I travel with cameras, computers, connectors and other electronic paraphernalia . So, first and foremost for me, is something to carry it all. Finding the best luggage for travel is a personal preference, but my thought process and methodology should work for everyone.
I started off with a standard Nikon camera bag, which is a very nice bag. But it was one more thing to carry, in addition to the computer equipment, OSMO, drone, occasional tripod and all the other gear. So it’s gone.
Instead, I decided to consolidate everything electronic and digital into one well padded bag that I could easily carry from the car or onto a plane.
The Cooper 15 Camera Gear Bag
After an enormous amount of research, I purchased a Tenba Cooper 15. (It also comes in an 8 inch and 13 inch size.) It’s a handsome bag, well organized and well thought out which is typical of Tenba products.
The material is a water repellent peach-wax cotton canvas. It has a leather base and both a shoulder strap and regular handle for carrying. It also slides onto my suitcase handle for easy rolling through airports.
Ann Cavitt Fisher (one of my travel partners in crime!) and I are going to Ireland in a few weeks and we’ll be taking the train from Dublin to Killarney. That means being able to physically manage whatever I bring. This Tenba needs to carry all my electronic gear, as well as some other travel essentials.
The Tenba Cooper 15 has a padded side slot for a computer.
There is a padded slot for my computer (on the left in the picture above) and interior compartments for camera gear. This camera and lens padding is removable so that it can be used in a backpack or in a suitcase as well.
The Tenba Cooper 15 has a removable insert for equipment padding.
My Nikon 5500 and two lenses, miscellaneous camera gear, batteries and chargers, with plenty of room for more. I am contemplating adding wide angle lens for better landscape photography, and there is plenty of room to carry it. The biggest issue is weight; every ounce counts.
I recently upgraded my Mac from an Air to a Pro. Given the storage needs and system demands of video and photography editing, I ran into performance issues with my four year old MacBookAir. The problem with the MacBook Air is that I can’t upgrade the RAM or storage like I could with a MacBook Pro. Think about this when you make a Mac decision. A Seagate 2TB external hard drive has been a stop gap measure, but I finally succumbed and bought a top of the line MacBookPro.
The DJMAvicPro Drone is THE choice for drone photography.
The DJI MavicPro Drone and accessories also fit into this bag. The MavicPro is so small and light I can easily take it in my purse as well. I’ll have a separate article on the considerations of using a drone for aerial video photography, on a personal and business basis.
I did a lot of research before deciding on a tripod. Size and weight were incredibly important to me, particularly for an item that is only used intermittently. But when it’s needed, I have to be able to carry it with me. Plus I wanted something easy to assemble and that would carry the extra weight of larger lenses.
I also wanted something that could potentially minimize my bending over too much (semi-bad back). Plus I’m a bit of a photographer newbie, so the Amazon reviews factored heavily into my decision making process.
I opted for a MeFoto Carbon Fiber Road Trip tripod weighs 3.1 pounds, and can support up to 17.6 pounds. It can also be used as a monopod/selfie stick. I also opted to pay for the Carbon Fiber upgrade, which was over half a pound lighter than the aluminum model. It extends up to 61.6″ and collapses down to 15.4″. The legs can also be locked at two different angles and independently sized for uneven terrain.
The combination of consistently good reviews and the points I had on my credit card which brought the purchase price down to well under $100, finally sealed the deal. Here is a short summary of some of the tripods I considered:
MeFoto Carbon Roadtrip
Manfrotto Be Free Carbon Fiver
Vanguard VEO 265CB.
Collapsed Height
15 inches
15.75 inches
17 inches
Extended Height
61.6 inches
55.91 inches
59 inches
Weight
3.1 lbs
2.43 lbs.
2.9 lbs
Max Load
17.6 lbs
8.82 lbs
17.6 lbs
Leg Locking Mechanism
Twist Locks
Flip Locks
Twist Locks
MeFoto Carbon Fiber Tripod
Discussions on the stability of each tripod also came into my decision making. The bottom line: none is perfect, but all are good and chances are you can be happy with any of these. If the extra cost of the carbon fiber is a factor (and weight is not) save some money and go for the aluminum version of these tripods. I opted for the carbon fiber, but I thought long and hard before I decided to take on the extra half a pound with the MeFoto over the Manfrotto. The ability to support more weight and the reviews on stability were what finally tipped my decision (no pun intended).
“OSMO”, as this gadget has come to be affectionately called, also fits neatly into the Tenba Cooper 15. Combined with my iPhone 7, this rounds up the key items for my camera bag.
This Roost Computer Stand provides ergonomic positioning wherever you have to work.
Finally, I still have room for all the cords, chargers and things needed to keep this electronic arsenal running. Plus a power strip, a 2 terabyte backup disc, and the collapsible Roost computer stand which has revolutionized my on the road work ergonomics.
I highly recommend Tenba bags, and this Cooper 15 in particular. Fully loaded it’s a bit heavier than I’d like, but it does allow me to safely transport an array of electronics that I simply don’t want out of my possession. It slides over the carry handle of my suitcase, and is easily rolled along with me. It’s a perfect size. According to Delta, which I’ll be flying to Ireland, the under the seat space is limited to 22 x 14 x 9. The Cooper 15 is 16 x 11.5 x 8. It should just fit.
The Best Luggage for Travel: Suitcases for Travel
When I cleaned out my former house, I found suitcases that I hadn’t used in years. Duffle bags, ski bags and much more. I used an old rolling duffle to store some winter clothes. It’s in the Thule Carrier.
The rest of the various luggage items were donated. I finally got rid of my old carry on roll aboard bag which had a partially broken zipper. I’ve been traveling with a larger roll aboard that houses all my additional “stuff”. But with an overseas trip coming up, it’ s time to revisit this issue. I need a small rollaboard again.
In choosing a bag, there are three key decisions that need to be made:
Backpack vs. Suitcase
This Patagonia Headway MLC can double as a backpack.
I’m not a backpacker, but having access to a backpack is nice under some situations. Do you want to be able to have your bag double as a backpack? Think about that. If you’re planning an outdoorsy vacation, or if your hands are going to be full with other things, this is something to consider.
My Patagonia doubles as a backpack, and it also has a padded sleeve if I want to carry my computer here, rather than in my Tenba. Using my Tenba 15 as my “personal item” and this as a carry on, means that I can carry on a great deal if I choose to. It’s also collapsable and very easy to store. The internal organization of the bag is excellent.
Hard Shell vs. Fabric
Polycarbonate shells provide protection.
Hard shell suitcases offer better protection against wet weather and high security. But they aren’t flexible or expandable, and when you get home, you’ll need a place to store them.
Materials like polycarbonate are light and strong and scratch resistant.
Softer, fabric suitcases are more flexible and easier to store. (For me, storage is obviously a key consideration). They expand, offering a bit more flexibility in packing, particularly if you want to bring that extra pair of shoes or bring home a new acquisition. They usually have pockets for easy accessibility. Hard shells do not.
While neither style of bag is completely water proof, the fabric models are less water resistant. Take your measurements carefully if you’re looking at a carry on to be sure the outside measurements (including the exterior wheels) comply with your carrier’s rules.
Rollaboard vs. Spinner
There are basically two types of locomotion for your traveling case: Rollaboard and Spinner
Rollaboards have one set of fixed wheels on the bottom of the suitcase. Spinners sport four multidirectional wheels.
The bag below, the TravelPro Magna 22 –a rollaboard–is the one I ultimately chose. Here are pictures of the same basic bag in a roll aboard and a spinner models:
Roll aboard version of the TravelPro Platinum Magna 2 22 inch
Spinner version of the TravelPro Platinum Magna 2 22 inch
Note the wheels at the base of each case. Four 360 degree wheels mean maximum maneuverability, although if you’re on an incline, you’ll have to lay the bag down to keep it from rolling off. The interiors are identical except for one thing: the Spinner version has one inch less interior room (in order to accommodate the size of the wheels in the overall specifications which are outside measurements for the purposes of airline travel).
Interior Design
I’m not too fussy about luggage. My package cubes organize my clothes; heavy plastic cosmetic bags contain any liquid products, and a belt or two will always fit around the perimeter. Voila! I’m packed. But this purchase exercise forced me to consider the value of a well crafted and organized suitcase. And on this feature, the TravelPro gets an A+.
The interior has two compartments.
The main compartment (below) has a plastic pouch for liquids (near side) and a mesh pouch across the back. The restraining straps also have two zippered mesh pouches for incidentals. With packing cubes, this means you can use every inch of space efficiently.
The top compartment can be used for clothes and/or packing cubes, or it can be extended (see below) for hanging clothes:
For me, this space is perfect for pants on a hangar. This means that I can pack several pairs of pants here, and use the main suitcase area for tops and other items. It’s well defined, organized and efficient. Extra items like shoes can to into my Patagonia carry on. And I am keeping my clothing color palette of grey, beige and black which gives me a great deal of wardrobe flexibility across numerous seasons. As I travel I continue to discard clothes that don’t work and occasionally (rarely!) add something that does.
Travel Packing List Summary: The Best Luggage for Travel (For Me) Boils Down to Three Items
My travel ensemble (for air travel) comes down to just three items that I can carry, lift and transport. For the moment, this is my best luggage for travel. I expect it to change over time, but for the moment:
Roll aboard version of the TravelPro Platinum Magna 2 22 inch
This is a half scale model of Cassini in the Von Karman Auditorium at NASA JP
Cassini was originally envisioned as a spacecraft that would explore Saturn after a seven year voyage traversing the distance between earth and her ringed neighbor in the solar system. What evolved wasn’t just another mission: it was a perfect mission that delivered even more than the NASA scientists had dreamed of. NASA’s Cassini Spacecraft Operations Manager Julie Webster put it into musical context in likening the experience to the Moody Blues song, “In Your Wildest Dreams“.
The findings of the mission are nothing short of spectacular. As are the people who have made this happen. For some of the staff, it’s been a 30 year project that came to an end at 4:55:16 am Pacific Time on September 15, 2017 when Cassini transmitted its final burst of data as it turned into an atmospheric probe during its final moments of descent into the Saturn atmosphere.
The end of a mission like Cassini is bittersweet. “It’s been a thirteen year marathon of scientific discovery, with science that will span a generation,” according to Linda Spilker, Cassini Project Scientist. And this meme of the intergenerational nature of space exploration is one that came up again and again. Within the project, senior scientists are mentoring young scientists. The data delivered will translate into new PhD theses for up and coming generations. And Cassini itself is just the first in a planned succession of explorations to expand our knowledge of life and our universe.
NASASocial’s Stephanie Smith reacts as the Cassini mission is called
The last two days have been a whirlwind at NASAJPL (NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory) in Pasadena, Ca, as the incredibly friendly and efficient NASA social staff led by Stephanie Smith organized, informed and herded a group of social media space fans through the facility and event. For an aviation fiend like me, this was hog heaven and I’m deeply grateful to NASAJPL for inviting me.
Our first day consisted of a nearly day long tour of the Jet Propulsion Lab (JPL) facility. “The Pulse” a Deep Space Network Sculpture in Building 180 was straight out of StarTrek and one of our first stops. (Speaking of Star trek, one of the #NASASocial participants was a star trek designer for the show. This is, after all, southern California!)
The Pulse
The Pulse is a light sculpture that visually reflects real-time communications between 30+ interplanetary spacecraft missions and the space network:
This wall greats visitors as the enter NASAJPL
Upward streams of light reflect communication to a spacecraft; downward coursing light reflects data downloads back to earth. The frequency and rate of activity directly reflects the actual stream of data flowing between the various Deep Space entities. As you stand in front of it, it pulses, sometimes rapidly, then it becomes still. Then it starts again, up and down, as data is transmitted across the universe.
The quote next to the sculpture that greets visitors as they enter, “Dare Mighty Things”, sets the tone for NASAJPL. This is inspiring stuff! And it just get better.
To Dare Mighty Things (not to mention accomplishing them), there is a lot of work and cooperation. The twenty five foot Space Simulation Chamber is just one stop in testing each new spacecraft.
Space Simulation Chamber at a NASA JPL
The simulator received National Historic Landmark designation in 1985 from the National Park Service. In this structure, NASAJPL can create a vacuum, test the functioning of various spacecraft components and simulate the deep cold and intense heat encountered in space. This particular chamber has been used in various Hollywood films. The Johnson Space Center has two larger chambers used for similar testing.
Looking down from the glass gallery above into the Spacecraft Assembly Facility.
The Spacecraft Assembly Facility, housed in Building 179, is a “clean room” where the spacecraft are actually built. In the gallery above (you can see our reflections in the picture of the clean room) we learned about Mars 2020 and some of the remarkable plans for that mission. Possibly included in that spacecraft is an extremely high rpm helicopter for Mars missions once the craft arrives on the planet’s surface.
Europa Mission Design Manager, Brent Buffington, discusses the mission.
Plans for further exploration include a mission to Europa, the smallest of the four Galilean moons orbiting Jupiter. Europa has some of the smoothest surfaces observed in the explorations to date, which scientists speculate may be due to an active, regenerating surface, that rapidly erases the evidence of meteor collisions apparent on other, less dynamic planets. This may point to a vast ocean beneath the surface. And that points to the possibility of some of the conditions necessary to sustain life as we know it. More information on this upcoming mission is available on the NASA site.
Also available on the NASA site is a remarkable tool, Eyes on the Solar System. You must download this app. It’s absolutely fascinating. It allows you to travel to the planets, their moons, asteroids, comets and the spacecraft exploring them fro 1950 to 2050. That means, in the case of Cassini, you can go back to any particular date and time and watch the mission unfold. This is a spectacular tool that allows you to watch twenty years of Saturn (and other) space exploration.
The NASASocial participants were an interesting cross section of people. I think we were each surprised and delighted to be selected for this program. We had educators, Hollywood people, tech and science people, communications people and more. It was a fabulous group bound by a common interest: Space.
Jim McClure, left, with Stephanie Smith just off to the side in a purple shirt.
The Cassini Mission Ace in the Mission Control Room.
And we were in good company! The entire staff of NASAJPL scientists were incredibly kind and accommodating. We visiting the Mission Control Room where Jim McClure, Space Flight Operations Facility Manager gave us a fun and informative tour.
In the Mission Control Room, we met the people at the various consoles, such as the Cassini Mission Ace. But perhaps the most fun we encountered was having NASAJPL turn the tables on us!
We’d been wandering around Mission Control, taking pictures and being obnoxious tourists, in our own well meaning way. “Take a picture,” we were encouraged. So, of course we all lined up to take a picture of the technical staff behind the glass pane, that were on Cassini duty. Just as we had our phones and cameras positioned, the ENTIRE staff stood up and took pictures of us! The entire room broke into laughter.
The tables are turned! The Cassini Control Room staff regards the curious tourists outside their glassed in work room.
Everyone seemed to get a kick out of having the tables turned!
NASAJPL was fun and incredibly informative too. There are so many interesting tidbits of information to share about this experience: how using Titan for gravity assist swing-bys allowed for different orbits and extended the range of the Cassini mission; images of the mysterious moons; information leading to new theories of planetary evolution and even possible life. These and many more pictures, information, stories and facts can be found here on the NASA site. Here are just a few pictures that tell the tale of Cassini, courtesy of NASA:
This collection of several images, pieced together, show where Cassini entered Saturn’s atmosphere on September 15, 2017.
Enceladus sinks below Saturn. Enceladus has vast oceans that NASA scientist are eager to explore.
This image of Titan, Saturn’s giant moon, was taken on September 13, 2017 and is one of Cassini’s last images from a 20 year voyage of discovery.
Titan passes in front of Saturn and its rings. This is the actual color. All photos compliments of NASAJPL.
We wrapped up our tour Thursday around 3pm, as scheduled, and prepared to return between 3-3:30 am Friday morning for the finale.
***
It is just past 2:00 am. NASAJPL isn’t far from where I am staying with friends in Pasadena, but roadwork forces me to take a bit of a detour. The highway is strangely empty. Arriving, I am directed to park in the press section of the parking lot.
It’s close to the auditorium and in the dark I sniff out the “coffee bar”, a hut in the open patio just behind the auditorium. And just in case the coffee wasn’t enough:
Red Bull!
And here is the NASASocial section of the room:
The NASASocial contingent!
The room is also packed with press, watching the human reaction to the scientific mission as the clock counts down. Some look tired, but emotions run high through the room, particularly among the Cassini staff who wear purple shirts.
The press focuses on the Cassini teams, watching their reactions to the end of 30 years of effort and exploration.
These three ladies have sparkly Saturn headsets to celebrate the occasion.
The distinguished panel provides information and updates. And here, a bit of history: these pictures show some of the people who have made Cassini possible.
As Cassini descends into Saturn’s atmosphere, the thrusters grapple to keep its communications beacon pointed towards earth, sending atmospheric information as it descends. As the speed and temperature build, the power of the signal stumbles and fades.
And then it flatlines.
The mission is called at 4:55:16 PT, September 15, 2017.
Earl Maize, Cassini Program Manager and Julie Webster, Space Operations Team Manager embrace.
The legacy of the Cassini has just begun.
Stay tuned as NASA continues to “Dare Mighty Things”.
“The Earth is the cradle of humanity, but mankind cannot stay in the cradle forever.”
KONSTANTIN TSIOLKOVSKY, Final Frontier: The Pioneering Science and Technology of Exploring the Universe
The story behind my incredible adventure with NASAJPL:
Inspiration, joy & discovery through travel. Oh, did I mention with supposedly incurable cancer?
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CancerRoadTrip is about making lemonade out of lemons.
As you read my story, you may want to start at the beginning to "grok" how CancerRoadTrip came to be. You can click here to start at the end (which is actually the beginning) and read forward! The posts are chronological, with the most recent posts appearing on the front page.
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I did a lot of research before deciding on a tripod. Size and weight were incredibly important to me, particularly for an item that is only used intermittently. But when it’s needed, I have to be able to carry it with me. Plus I wanted something easy to assemble and that would carry the extra weight of larger lenses.
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